Caravan-Serai Tours

Morocco Slide Show

2012-01-04T23:47:00.000-08:00

Morocco 2010 Slideshow: Brenda’s trip from Snohomish, Washington, United States to 6 cities Marrakech, Casablanca, Fes, Rabat, Meknes and Moulay Idriss was created by TripAdvisor. See another Morocco slideshow. Create your own stunning free slideshow from your travel photos.

#Jordan & #Oman Rank High in Lonely Planet Top 10 Lists

2012-01-04T17:06:00.000-08:00

Lonely Planet, a publisher of in-depth travel guide books, has released its 2012 "best of" lists. Their lists of the 10 best cities to visit and the 10 best countries to visit have 2 of our favorite destinations! Muscat, Oman was ranked number 2 in the best cities list and Jordan was ranked number for in the list of best countries. Click the links below to see the complete lists:

Lonely Planet Best Cities 2012

Lonely Planet Best Countries 2012

If you have a desire to see either (or both!) of these destinations, give us a call. We can arrange you air and land details, including sightseeing, accommodations, etc.

Visit our Jordan and Oman pages on our website.

Western Deserts of Egypt Tour Map

2011-12-20T00:16:00.000-08:00

Ok, I am getting the hang of posting the places and getting them to save! Enjoy your virtual tour!

Western Desert & Nile Cruise Tour Map

More tour information can be found here: Tour Details

Caucasus Tour Map!

2011-12-19T23:13:00.000-08:00

If you are interested in the places we will be visiting on our tour to Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, check out this map. I have tagged the locations with corresponding itinerary descriptions. Enjoy!

Caucasus Tour Map

For more details on the tour including pricing and inclusions go here: Caucasus Tour Info

Map of our March tour to Turkey

2011-12-19T22:18:00.001-08:00

I just posted our tour on Google Maps. You can go to this link and see a day by day itinerary, plus the map locations of the places we will go. This is the first time I have tried this, so please be patient as I figure it out! It should give you an idea, though, of where we will go. I will work on the other tours as soon as I can! Enjoy!

Map of our Tour of Western Turkey, March 2012

More information about the tour can be seen here: Tour Details

Testimonials from American Tourists in Cairo

2011-12-09T12:19:00.001-08:00

Video of Karnak in Egypt

2011-12-09T12:17:00.000-08:00

2011 Top Travel Specialist Award

2011-11-30T08:53:00.001-08:00

PRESS RELEASE

November 28, 2011

Contact: Brenda Pierce

Caravan-Serai Tours, Inc.

Brenda@caravan-serai.com

206-890-3852

3806 Whitman Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98103

For ImmediateRelease

Rita Zawaideh NamedTop Travel Specialist for 9^th Year in a Row by Conde Nast Traveler

SEATTLE:Once again, Caravan-Serai Tours owner by Rita Zawaideh has received theprestigious honor of being named Top Travel Specialist from industry-leadingConde Nast Traveler magazine. 2011 marks the ninth consecutive year in which Rita has received this recognition.In an annual survey of travel specialists, the magazine lists “The Top TravelSpecialists” developed after exhaustive interviews, reference checking, andrecommendations from other industry insiders. Caravan-Serai Tours and ownerRita Zawaideh have been recognized for excellence and the depth and recentfirsthand knowledge of the Middle East and North Africa, but particularly forthe countries of Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan.

Also part of the equation is Rita's strong relationship withlocal contacts, the high level of client commitment, a willingness to work witha range of budgets, and discriminating taste. This year's listing and moredetails on how the list was prepared can be found in the December 2011 editionof the Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.

Caravan-Serai provides expert travel services and tourorganization to the Middle East and North Africa.The company caters to small and medium sized groups as well as independenttravelers. All inclusive, tailor-made tours blend an educational and culturalexperience with fun and adventure. Travel is the only way to bring peopletogether and build bridges of understanding.

Wondering about travel to Iran?

2011-11-09T16:29:00.000-08:00

As usual, Iran is in the news, and not in a good way - what's new? Still, this may give some people pause to think about traveling to Iran "at such a time". On my trip to Iran in October of 2009, it was only months after the world watched in horror at the brutal crackdown on protests over the Iranian elections. We monitored the situation, and determined that it would be ok to travel, and the tour went on schedule.

We were welcomed warmly and had an amazing time on the tour. People were always happy to talk to us, and even wanted their photos taken with an American. I remember at one of the sites we stopped at, a group of women approached us and handed one of the women in our group an infant, then stood beside her so another person could take a photo. A moment saved for posterity - "here you are at the age of 8 months or so being held by an American!"

There are tourists in Iran - Europeans know that Iran has a lot to offer the visitor in hospitality, excellent services, and sites that are truly breathtaking. Americans, not so much. And many Iranians were out visiting their national treasures right along side the foreigners. This is how we were able to meet so many wonderful people from all over Iran - families, students, all ages touring the sights and willing to talk to us, to tell us about their lives and how they viewed the world.

Travel to Iran is an immensely rewarding experience. You will be welcomed by the masters of hospitality, see amazing sights, get to know the people a bit, eat wonderful food, and leave thinking "what is the problem with our respective governments!"

If you are interested in learning more about traveling to Iran, just give us a call. We will be happy to answer your questions, and hopefully ease your concerns.

Persian Gardens & History Tour

2011-11-09T15:07:00.000-08:00

Join us in May for a tour of Persian Gardens, as well as the many historical sights such as Persepolis, Rayen, and more. Click her for full details.

Sat May 5: Welcome to Iran! We arrive in Tehran late the evening and procede through customs formalities. We will be met and transferred to our hotel for overnight. (Flights arrive just before midnight, or just after midnight on the 6th.)
Sun May 6: TEHRAN
We will have a late breakfast and then have a leisurely half day tour of Tehran to see some of Tehran's palaces, parks and museums. Dinner and overnight in Tehran. (B/L/D)

Mon May 7: TEHRAN
We will have a full day of sightseeing in Tehran to visit several museums and monuments in the city.
Tues May 8: TEHRAN-KASHAN
Today we will drive to Kashan via the holy city of Qom. We arrive in Kashan after lunch and check in to our hotel, then we have a tour of Kashan to see the historical houses as well as the World Heritage Garden of Fin.

Weds May 9: KASHAN-YAZD
Today we will drive to the desert city of Yazd, en-route visit the ancient town of Nain to see a 1200 year old mosque and the 17th century governor's house that is now an ethnological museum of the desert people.
Thurs May 10: YAZD
Today we will have a full day tour of Yazd to visit the Zoroastrian Silent Towers, the Fire Temple as well as the Water Museum and the Bazaar.

Fri May 11: YAZD-KERMAN
Today after lunch we will drive to Kerman, en-route visit to a wonderful 17th century Royal Safavid Caravan Serai where we can have a tea and see some camels in the vicinity of the mysterious KAVIR (desert). After our break we continue towards Kerman with some very nice stops at the famous Rafsanjan Pistachio Gardens where the famous Persian Pistachios come from.
Sat May 12: KERMAN (Excursion to Rayen and Mahan)
Today after breakfast we drive 80 KM to Rayen, in the foothills of the 14000ft Hezar Mountain to see a 2000 year old citadel as well as visit to the World Heritage site of the Prince Garden in Mahan city.
Sun May 13: KERMAN-SHIRAZ
Today after breakfast we have full day drive to Shiraz. We will also visit a 5th century Sassanian hunting lodge that is a great example of the Sassanian architecture of dome designs.
Mon May 14: SHIRAZ
Today we will start our tour of Shiraz with a visit to another World Heritage site called Eram Persian Garden of Eden and then visit the tomb of the beloved poet Hafez located in a beautiful garden park, and then the Nasirol Molk pink mosque and Narenjestan, a traditional old house of Shiraz.

Tues May 15: SHIRAZ (With excursion to Persepolis and Necropolis)
Today after breakfast we will drive to Persepolis to see the highlight of Persian archeology to see the palaces of Darius the Great and Xerxes, and the necropolis of Naghshe Rustam, site of an Achaemenid-period fire-temple and sanctuary, four Royal Tombs and eight Sassanian rock-reliefs including the impressive victory scene of Shapur I over Roman Emperor Valerian.

Weds May 16: SHIRAZ-ISFAHAN
Today after breakfast we will drive to Esfahan with a lovely stop at the first Persian capital Pasargad to see the remains of the ancient city and palaces of Pasargad from Cyrus the Great, including his tomb and private palace.
Thurs May 17: ISFAHAN
Today after breakfast we start our tour of the biggest, man-made, Garden city in the world, Isfahan, by visiting the world heritage Garden Palace of Chehel Sotoon (40 Columns), dating back to the 17th century Safavid Era. Then we will continue our tour to see an old bridge as well as the 17th century Cathedral of Vank in the Julfa Armenian Quarter.

Fri May 18: ISFAHAN
Today after breakfast we will have a full day tour of Isfahan to see the Old Friday Mosque then return to our hotel for lunch. After lunch we will go by bus to the famous World Heritage site of Naghshe Jahan Square to see Ali Qapou Palace, Lutfollah Mosque and the Shah Mosque, then enjoy free time exploring in the 17th century bazaar of Isfahan, and doing some last minute shopping.
Sat May 19: ISFAHAN-TEHRAN
Today after breakfast we will drive back to Tehran with some great stops at the cities of Natanz and Abyaneh. We will be back to Tehran around 6 PM for dinner and overnight.
Sun May 20: TEHRAN-USA
Early morning transfer to the IKA airport for your flight back to the USA. END OF SERVICES

Western Desert & Nile Cruise March 2012

2011-11-02T12:07:00.000-07:00

March 1: Welcome to Egypt, Land of Pharaohs! Upon arrival at Cairo International Airport we will be met and transferred to our hotel for overnight in Cairo.
March 2: After breakfast at the hotel we will begin our tour with a visit to Tahrir Square, which became known worldwide. After a visit with time for photos we will head into the Egyptian National Museum of Antiquities where you will see the fabulous treasures of the tomb of Tutankhamon. Lunch will be served at a typical restaurant, and afterwards we will go to visit one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World - the Pyramids and the Sphinx at the Giza Plateau. Return to hotel. Overnight in Cairo. (B/L)
March 3: This morning we leave Cairo at 8:00am for the Bahariya Oasis. This first part of our excursion to the Western Desert will be on an asphalt road, and we will stop to see the local market and have lunch in a local restaurant. We will then head southwest to reach the White Desert where we will camp overnight at our campsite located at the heart of the White Desert, and enjoy a BBQ dinner. (B/L/D)

March 4: Today we will explore the White Desert, a unique open air sculpture museum created by nature, where rocks and sand have been eroded by the wind. We will watch the spectacular sunset in the open desert then we will return to our camp for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

March 5: This morning after breakfast in the camp we will go to the Farafra Oasis. We will visit explore the oasis, including its authentic museum known for its unique art. Then we will have a bath in a natural hot water spring before going back to the White Desert to our camp for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

March 6: Today, we head north to reach the mountain of crystals, where we will do some exploring. We will then continue to Bahariya and visit the museum of the Golden Mummies as well as the temple of Alexander the Great and a Pharaonic tomb. We will have lunch then head back to Cairo arriving around sunset with lots of wonderful memories and superb photos of this memorable unique experience. Overnight in Cairo. (B/L)

March 7: We will have an early breakfast and then check out and transfer to the Cairo Domestic Airport for our flight to Aswan. Arrive in Aswan and transfer to the Nile Cruise ship to check in. Lunch on board, relax and get settled in. After lunch we will meet our local guide go to see the Aswan High Dam, which took over for the Old Dam and resulted in the creation of Lake Nasr. Next we visit the Temple of Philae located on an island just above the High Dam. This temple is dedicated to the goddess Isis and was saved from the flood waters of the lake by removing it from its original location to its present location. Our last visit in Aswan is the at the ancient pink granite quarry where we will see the Unfinished Obelisk. The stone cracked as the stone cutters were trying to cut the massive stone from the surrounding rock, making it useless, so they left it, and left us with clues about how the ancient Egyptians constructed their giant monuments. Return to the ship and dinner and overnight on board in Aswan. (B/L/D)

March 8: The ship will sail to Kom Ombo while we are having breakfast, and once we dock there we will go visit the Temple of Kom Ombo. The Temple of Kom Ombo is shared by the two Gods Sobek and Haroeris. Sobek is depicted as a crocodile and you will find his image everywhere, as well as other signs of worship to this god. After visiting the temple return to the ship and sail on to Edfu. Enjoy afternoon tea as the banks of the Nile glide by. Once in Edfu we will visit the Temple of Horus at Edfu. The large well preserved temple complex was built between 237 BCE to 57 BCE, into the reign of Cleopatra VII. Built from sandstone blocks, the huge Ptolemaic temple was constructed over the site of a smaller New Kingdom temple, oriented east to west, facing towards the river. Enjoy afternoon tea and dinner on board as we sail to Esna and pass through the locks, and on to Luxor for overnight. (B/L/D)

March 9: After breakfast we begin our sightseeing in Luxor with a visit to the West Bank. In the Valley of the Kings we will visit several tombs that have been preserved. The tombs of Tut Ankh-Amon, Ramses III, Seti I, Ramses VI, Amenhotep II, and more are located here. See the differing types of construction of the burial chambers located in this cut in the mountains. Afterwards visit Queen Hatshepsut's Temple. At Queen Hatshepsut's Temple, we will see the reconstructed temple of this fascinating ruler of Egypt. Her story is full of political intrigue and rivalry, a power struggle, murder, and more! Head back to the ship, stopping to see the Colossi of Memnon at the ruins of the tomb of Amenhotep III. Lunch will be on board the ship, and dinner and overnight in Luxor. (B/L/D)

March 10: After breakfast on board we will disembark (check out), then visit the Temples of Karnak and Luxor. The Temple of Karnak is dedicated to the Theban Triad of Amon, Mut, and Khonso, and is the largest religious complex in the world. The complex was constructed over several hundred years. We will see the many efforts of successive rulers to put their individual mark on the temple, and efforts to remove the presence of others. After exploring this magnificent site, go to the smaller but just is beautiful Temple of Luxor with its elegant colonnaded hall and sculpture of King Tut and his wife. Afterwards we transfer to Luxor Airport for our flight to Cairo. On arrival at the Cairo Airport we will transfer to our hotel and check in. The rest of the day is free. Overnight in Cairo. (B)
March 11: After breakfast we will have a sightseeing tour in Old Cairo. We will visit the Hanging Church built in the ancient city walls of the Gate of Babylon, and then the oldest Jewish Synagogue in Cairo, followed by a visit to the Citadel of Salah El Din and the Alabaster Mosque of Prince Mohamed Ali. Return to the hotel, and the rest of the say is free on your own. Overnight in Cairo. (B)

March 12: Breakfast, check out and transfer to Cairo International Airport for departure flights. (B)
End of services.

Pricing & more info: http://www.caravan-serai.com/NewSite/Countries/Egypt/Egypt-WesternDesertMar2012.htm

What we have been working on at Caravan-Serai

2011-10-26T16:00:00.000-07:00

By now you have seen several of the tours we have planned for next year. Well, we aren't done yet! In the coming days there will be another tour for Iran called the Persian Gardens & History Tour for May, and an exciting new Egypt tour for March that will include a Nile Cruise, city tours in Cairo, and a 3 night excursion into the Western Desert.

When these itineraries are complete we will have them on our newly redesigned website and we will post them here and to our email list. To whet your appetite for the Egypt tour, here are a few photos of the Egypt tour taken by the desert camp leader Raed Baddar.

See Morocco next May!

2011-10-19T13:20:00.000-07:00

Meknes City Walls

Morocco

Escorted* Group Tour

May2 - 13, 2012

$2595 pp/do land only

May 2: Arrival / Casablanca / Rabat

Uponarrival in Casablanca, we will be met and thentransferred to Rabat,the "Imperial Garden City" and also the administrative capitol of thekingdom. Check in at the hotel forovernight. (B/D)

May 3:Rabat / Meknes /Volubilis / Fes

Afterbreakfast we check out and begin our sightseeing of Rabat. Our tour includes the Kasbah of theOudayas, the Hassan Tower and Mosque, the splendid Mohamed V Mausoleumand the Mechouar - the ramparts and walls surrounding the Royal Palace.Afterwards we depart Rabat for Meknes,the "Moroccan Versailles," founded at the end of the 17th century byMoulay Ismail, a contemporary of France's Louis XIV. Our explorationof this area includes the Bab El Mansour, considered to be the finest gatewayin Morocco,the Hari Souani, the Moulay's stables, and the new and old Medinas. We willcontinue to the Roman ruins of Volubilis and tour the site, then continue to Fes for overnight. (B/D)

May 4:Fes

Thismorning, explore Fes, the oldest of theImperial Cities, known for its spiritual and educational contributions toMoroccan culture. Visit the Medieval Medina, the religious Islamic universitiesknown as Merdersas, the Karouine Mosque and the Nejjerine Fountain. We willalso see the traditional tanneries, and walk through the narrow passageways ofthe medina and shops, then visit a local pottery shop to see the traditionalmethod used to create all the beautiful tile and pottery you will seeeverywhere in Morocco. Overnight in Fes. (B/D)

May 5:Fes / Ifrane / Midelt / Erfoud / Merzouga

Afteran early breakfast depart for Erfoud. Along the way, as we pass through themountainous terrain, stop at the mountain resort and university town of Ifrane, then continue on to Midelt and the Ziz Rivervalley through fortified villages and on to Erfoud. From Erfoud we willtransfer into 4x4 vehicles and head into the dunes of Merzouga for overnight ata desert camp at the edge of the Sahara. (B/D)

May6: Erfoud / Tinghir / Boumalne

Afterbreakfast at the camp we will return to Erfoud then continue on to the oasiscity of Tinghir,known for it’s lushness and roses that it produces. It is also a the place tobegin our exploration of the Todra Gorge, with it’s ice cold river cuttingthrough the towering sheer rock walls of the mountains. We will explore thegorge then continue to the Dades Valley (Red Valley) and Boumalne forovernight. (B/D)

May 7:Boumalne / Kalaâ M'Gouna / Ouarzazate

Thismorning we depart for Ouarzazate, stopping to visit the city of Kalaâ M'Gouna, famous forit’s roses. This is the center of rose water production in the country and inMay there is a rose festival. The city has over 4000 km of rose hedges! Afterour visit here we continue on to Ourazazate for overnight. (B/D)

May 8:Ouarzazate / Aït Ben Haddou / Marrakech

Afterbreakfast spend some time exploring Ouarzazate before departing for Marrakesh. Visit thekasbahs of Tifoutout and Taorirt, then on to Ain Ben Haddou, another majestickasbah, nestled in the midst of a forest of almond trees. Continue on throughthe Tiz-In-Tichka Pass at 2260 meters,enjoying spectacular mountain scenery and views of the valleys below. Arrive inMarrakesh forovernight. (B/D)

May 9:Marrakech (city tour)

Todaywe will have a full day exploring Marrakesh,sightseeing throughout this historic city including Koutoubia, the Menara andgarden, the Saadien Tombs, and the Bahia Palace. Lunch at thehotel. This afternoon, walk through the colorful souks with their wealth oftreasures, the famous Djemaa El Gna Place filled with fascinating characters,fire eaters, teeth pullers, fortune tellers, spice - nuts - incense merchants,story tellers, snake charmers, and tame monkeys, to name a few! (B/D)

May10: Marrakech

Wewill have another day in Marrakeshwith free time for shopping or exploring on your own. Overnight in Marrakesh. (B)

May11: Marrakech / Essaouira

Afterbreakfast depart for Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. Stop along the way atMagador and Chichaoua. Essaouira is an excellent example of a Portuguese portand is an exotic blending of Moorish and Portuguese art and architecture.Traders and artists have gathered here since the 18th century. We will have acity tour on arrival. Possibly we may see some goats in the trees here!Overnight in Essaouira. (B)

May12: Essaouira / Oualidia / El Jadida / Casablanca

Afterbreakfast depart for Casablanca.Our first stop will be at Oualidia then we continue on to El Jadida, anotherformer Portuguese stronghold with a spectacular 1100 square meter undergroundreservoir, for a tour before continuing on to Casablanca. Dinner and overnight in Casablanca. (B/D)

May13: Departure

Transferto the airport for our flights home.

Endof services.

*Group will be escorted by a Seattle staff member with minimum 10 passengers.

Included:

Ourrate includes:

Accommodationon half board for 5 nights at hotels and on bed and breakfast for 6 nights atRiads

Adeluxe air-conditioned minibus at disposal according to t he above-mentioneditinerary

Aqualified English speaking guide for the whole tour

(4x4)with drivers for the round trip transfers to the Dunes

Entrancefees to monuments (external visit of Hassan II Mosque)

Portrageof luggage, taxes and services

Ourfull assistance.

NotIncluded:

Airfare

Drinksduring meals

Lunches,snacks, water while touring

Personalexpenses and extras

Tipsfor guide and driver – we recommend about $8 for the guide and $4 for thedriver, per person, per day

Tripinsurance

Single Supplement: $455

Hotels& Riads (depending on availability):

Rabat: Chellah Hotel

Fes: Palais Shehrazade

MerzougaDunes: Bivouac

Boumalne:Xaluca Dades

Ouarzazate:Berbere Palace

Marrakesh: Riad Amina

Essaouira:Riad Mimouna

Casablanca: Idou Anfa

Visit Iran

2011-10-15T19:12:00.000-07:00

"Overall this trip was amazing, you have a lifetime customer, and Iran has a lifetime advocate (I am telling everyone how great of a place it is to travel to). I knew people in the Middle East are very welcoming and friendly to all, this was over the top, I always felt welcome and cared for by the people of Iran.

I was surprised at how few tourists were there, this country has so much potential for tourism revenue. Some of the positives -Visa Process: talking with another couple from a different tour company they had a nightmare getting their visa. I could not believe how easy it was for me, could not have been more simple thanks to you. -Guide: Bahman was very knowledgeable of the country, the history, culture, art and architecture. He went out of his way to make sure we were all taken care of, I know snacks were not included but Bahman took care of us constantly introducing us to local treats. He knew a lot of locals and made sure to introduce us to them. -Driver: had a great driver that went out of how way to make us comfortable, I have no idea how he drove through that traffic but he did so with ease. -Hotels: very impressed with the quality of the hotels, great service and food. -Bahman made sure we got to see how things are made, meet local shop keepers, see them in action, and ask questions. We even went to the home of Mr. Fotowold, the miniaturist painter! -Our guide kept us informed of what places are good places to buy specific articles and took us to places where I felt we could trust the shopkeepers. -Small group size: allowed us to get in and out of places quickly and kept the variation of personalities to a min. I heard people in other groups complaining that the size of their group was too big and it was ruining their trip, so glad that Caravan-Serei keeps their groups small. -Bahman kept us well fed, I never went hungry, was never disappointed in the food quality -Our guide spoke plainly to us about what it is like in his country and how the people feel there"

Nathan (Iran October 2010)

Experience Iran for yourself in 2012. This tour in April is the first of 3 we have schedule. The second will be in May, and the third will be in October. See for yourself!

Iran: Kerman to Tabriz
April 9 - 24, 2012
$4700 pp/do

http://www.caravan-serai.com/NewSite/Countries/Iran/IranApr2012.htm

Apr 9: Upon our late evening arrival at IKA airport in Tehran, we will be met and transferred to our hotel for overnight.
Apr 10: Tehran We will have a full day of sightseeing in Tehran to visit several museums and monuments in the city. We may visit the former residence of the last Shah of Iran at Sa'ad-Abad Palace and Museum Complex, and the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art, Niavaran Palace, and the Tehran Bazaar. Complete your visit of Tehran with a visit to the National Jewels Museum. On display is an impressive collection of some of the most famous and spectacular jewels in the world including many priceless pieces. Many pieces have disappeared over the years but the remaining collection of gemstones, jewelry, royal emblems, ornamental guns and jewel-encrusted furniture is still impressive. The majority of the items on display were given to Safavid kings as gifts but many pieces taken by Nader Shah on his conquest of India are also exhibited. These include the Darya-e Nur diamond, The Peacock Throne and the Jeweled Globe. Other pieces include the crowns of the Qajar and Pahlavi Kings. (Please note that the order of museum visits may vary due to different hours of operation and other scheduling issues) Dinner and overnight in Tehran.
Apr 11: Tehran-Kerman After breakfast, we will depart for another city tour of Tehran, Iran's capital to see museums and sites not visited the day before. In the late afternoon we transfer to the airport for our flight to Kerman. On arrival in Kerman we will transfer to the hotel for dinner and overnight.
Apr 12: Kerman/Excursion to Rayen & Mahan Today we will have a full day excursion to the village of Rayen to visit the Arg, or Citadel, of Rayen, a miniature version of the Arg-e-Bam, with all the architectural features of a desert citadel. Arg e Rayen is now gaining prominence as a result of the tragic earthquake in Bam which destroyed the town and its magnificent citadel. On the return journey we will stop at Mahan to visit the blue-tiled Mausoleum of Shah Nematollah-e-Vali, the great 14th century Sufi Leader; and the Shahzadeh Garden (late 19th century Qajar-period garden/house). We will return to Kerman to have a city tour. We will see the Ganj-Ali-Khan Complex that is comprised of a 17th century Safavid period bathhouse, caravanserai, and bazaar, plus the Friday Mosque. Dinner and overnight in Kerman.
Apr 13: Kerman - Yazd After breakfast we will have one last look around the city of Kerman to see anything we missed the day before, then depart for Yazd. On arrival in Yazd we will check in to our hotel for dinner and overnight.
Apr 14: Yazd After breakfast depart for a full day of sightseeing in Yazd, the center for Iran's small Zoroastrian community. Seeking refuge from the invading Arabs the Zoroastrians found a safe haven within Yazd's fortified walls. We will see the active Zoroastrian Fire Temple, the fire of which has been burning for about 1500 years. Among Yazd's Islamic sites is the Friday Mosque (1324 A.D.), with the highest portal and minarets in Iran. Other notable Islamic monuments in Yazd are the Seljuk shrine dedicated to the Twelve Shi'ite Imams, and the Ziaieyeh Theological School known as Zendan-e-Eskander, or Alexander's Prison. There are also many beautiful old houses in Yazd, among them the Dowlat-Abad Garden, with an 18th century hexagonal house. Dinner and overnight in Yazd.
Apr 15: Yazd-Shiraz This morning we depart for Shiraz. Along the way we will stop at Abarkuh and Pasargadae for a visit. Pasargadae is the site of the simple, but impressive, tomb of Cyrus the Great (founder of the Persian Empire), and the remains of his palaces. Continue on to Shiraz for dinner and overnight.
Apr 16: Shiraz/Excursion to Persepolis-Isfahan After breakfast we depart for a half day excursion to Persepolis, the extensive remains of the palaces of the Achaemenid kings Darius I, Xerxes and Artaxerxes, with magnificent bas-reliefs. After that we visit Naghsh-e-Rostam, site of an Achaemenid-period fire-temple and sanctuary, four Royal Tombs and eight Sassanian rock-reliefs including the impressive victory scene of Shapur I over Roman Emperor Valerian. After visiting the site return to Shiraz the city of "roses and nightingales". In the afternoon we return to Shiraz for a city tour. Some of the sights we may see include the Tomb of Iran's greatest lyric poet, Hafez, Narenjestan (a reception/residential house/garden), the pink-tiled Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque, the Eram Garden, and the very interesting nomads' bazaar of Shiraz. In the evening we transfer to the airport for our flight to Isfahan. On arrival we transfer to the hotel for overnight.
Apr 17: Isfahan After breakfast we depart for a tour of the beautiful city of Isfahan, the 17th century capital of the Safavids, referred to as Nesf-e-Jahan (Half of the World). Our tour will include a visit to the famous bridges of Shahrestan, Khajou, and Sio-se-pol, and the Armenian Quarter to visit the Cathedral of Vank. In the afternoon we visit one of the world's grandest squares - the Maidan-e-Naghsh-e-Jahan. The Maidan is the location of the Ali-Qapu Palace with its magnificent architecture and tile-work. The palace has enchanting music rooms and a balcony overlooking the Maidan, from where the Safavid Kings watched polo games. Also on the square are two of the Islamic world's greatest mosques: the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and the Shah Mosque. Finish with a visit to the Qeisarieh Bazaar with hundreds of shops displaying the art and handicrafts for which Isfahan is world-famous. Dinner and overnight in Isfahan.
Apr 18: Isfahan We will have another full day of sightseeing in Isfahan, including a visit to the magnificent Friday Mosque, with the famous Uljaitu Mihrab (Prayer Niche) of the Il-Khanid period, the Harun-e-Velayat Shrine and the Ali Minaret. We will also visit Chehel-Sotun (Forty Columns) Palace and Hasht-Behesht (Eight Paradise) Palace (from outside), both set in beautiful gardens/parks. Afterwards we will return to the Maidan and shops for another visit and shopping before returning to the hotel for dinner and overnight.
Apr 19: Isfahan-Tehran This morning we will depart very early to drive to Tehran. En-route we will have a brief stop over at the charming town of Natanz to visit a beautiful Islamic Complex which includes a Friday Mosque, Monastery, and the Tomb of Sheikh Abdol Samad Isfahani. Continue to Kashan for a short visit to the historical garden of Fin which was first planted during the Safavid period and kept alive with water from the nearby Sulaimanieh Spring. This beautiful garden was expanded by the Zand and Qajar monarchs, with many open pavilions added. Continue on to Tehran. Upon our arrival in Tehran we will check in to the Laleh Hotel for dinner and overnight.
Apr 20: Tehran-Tabriz This morning we fly to Tabriz. Once there we will have a full-day city tour of Tabriz which will include a visit to the Blue Mosque, completed in 1465 by Nimatullah ibn Mohammad Bavvab. Also visit the Azarbaijan Museum and the Shah-Goli Pavilion. End our day at the bazaar. Overnight in Tabriz.
Apr 21: Tabriz/Excursion Kandovan Today after breakfast we will have a full day excursion to the volcanic city of Kandovan. Kandovan village is located 50 km to the south of Tabriz, Osku, on the northern slopes of a valley at the foothills of Mount Sahand. The landscape is similar to Cappadocia in Turkey. The rock cones created by thousands of years or erosion have been carved out and made into dwellings. Return to Tabriz for overnight.
Apr 22: Tabriz-Anzali This morning we will drive to Bandar-é-Anzali via Ardabil to visit the Sheikh Safi-eddin Ardabili Mausoleum and Museum. Ardabil is best known as the birthplace of the eminent religious leader Sheik Safi-eddin (1251-1334) from whom the Safavid dynasty was descended. Continue to Bandar-é-Anzali for dinner and overnight.
Apr 23: Anzali-Tehran This morning we will drive to Tehran, with a stop at the village of Masulé. This is picturesque mountain village where the homes and buildings seem to cling to the side of the mountain. Homes are built practically on top of one another. Enjoy sightseeing in the village then continue on to Tehran for dinner and overnight.
Apr 24: Early morning transfer to the airport for departure.
End of services.
Included:

Visa authorization
Full-board accommodation in 3-5 star hotels, breakfast at hotels, lunch and dinner at best available local restaurants, or hotels
All land transportations in air conditioned minivan
All group transfers to/from airports, from/to hotels
All portages and entrance fees for main sites and excursions
Highly-qualified English-speaking national guide and local guides in Shiraz and Isfahan
Domestic flights: Tehran-Kerman, Shiraz-Isfahan, Tehran-Tabriz

Not Included:

International air
Visa fees
Personal expenses such as room service, telephone/fax calls, laundry, dry cleaning, etc.
Optional tours or entrance fees not shown on the itinerary
Refreshments, snacks, etc., en route or during meals, caviar at any meals
Fuel surcharges, if any
Tips for guides ($8), drivers ($4), and drivers' assistant ($2) - amounts are only suggestions and are per person, per day
Trip insurance

Tour of Saudi Arabia 2012

2011-10-15T18:23:00.000-07:00

Group at the Hijaz Railway Station/Museum

This tour already has several people signed up. It is becoming one of our most popular tours, and we offer it about the same time every year.

Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

February 12 - 23, 2012

$6715 pp/do, land only

http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/Saudi-Feb2012.htm

Sun 12 Feb: Arrival in Riyadh On arrival in Riyadh you will be met and assisted, then transfer to our hotel, the Radisson BLU Hotel. Get settled and relax. Dinner and overnight at the Radisson BLU. (L/D)

Mon 13 Feb: Riyadh / Najran After breakfast we will begin our tour of Riyadh, the administrative capital of Saudi Arabia. It has grown into a modern, shining city in the middle of the desert and its unique architecture makes for a spectacular skyline. We will also see the camel market and visit Faisaliah Tower, a new landmark hotel with a restaurant and observation deck at the top of this obelisk-shaped tower. We will also visit Direya Town - a historical town of the Saud family. Lunch will be at Al Mazraha Restaurant. Next we will visit the Masmak Fortress, captured in 1902 in King Abdul Aziz's battle to regain control of the city, his ancestral home. At the entrance to this mud citadel we will see a spear tip broken off and embedded in the door lintel of the old fort, and preserved that way as a reminder of the battle for the city. Afterwards we will visit the Heritage Souq near the fortress for some shopping - antiques and gold can be found here. We will end our day at the King Abdul Aziz Museum, then transfer to the airport. We will have dinner at an airport restaurant, then take our flight to Najran. Upon arrival in Najran we will transfer to the Holiday Inn for overnight. (B/L/D)

Tues 14 Feb: Najran Najran is very close to the border with Yemen and at one time was considered part of Yemen. It was on the main frankincense caravan route that ran from southern Arabia to Jordan, Syria, and Egypt. Najran's most prosperous trading time was during the first and second centuries BC when it was known as Al-Ukhdood. We will start our sightseeing at Al Ukhdood Museum, Al Ukhdood Site, "the Massacre of Trench", Raoum Castle, Najran Gigantic Dam, the local souk, and the Emarat Historical Palace. Lunch will be at our hotel. Dinner and overnight in Najran. (B/L/D)

Weds 15 Feb: Najran - Abha After breakfast we check out and drive to Abha. Along the way we will have stops at Dhahran Al Janoub and Al Haraja to visit the old city. We will also stop for a panoramic view of Farrshah from the Tehama mountains. Once we arrive in Abha we will check in to the Abha Palace Hotel and have lunch. In the afternoon we visit the mountainside village of Al Habala. Al Habala village is 2000 meters above sea level, is no longer inhabited but is a destination for visitors. The terraced village is sometimes called the hanging village because it virtually hangs on the side of the steep mountain. The inhabitants used ropes to climb from one place to another. Visit the souk then return to the hotel for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

Thurs 16 Feb: Abha This morning we will enjoy the natural beauty of this region with a visit to one of many parks in the area, Al Soodah Park. The area is mountainous and the climate really varies from top to bottom. We will see terraced mountainsides, and green vegetation like nowhere else in Saudi Arabia. We will also take a cable car ride to see the picturesque mountain village of Rijal Al Maa and to view Sarawat Mountain. After lunch at the hotel we will go to visit Asir National Park, home to Saudi Arabia's highest mountain peak, and Bin Himsan Cultural Village and Museum. Return to the hotel for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

Fri 17 Feb: Abha / Al Ula After breakfast we transfer to the airport for our flight to Medina. On arrival in Medina we will have lunch at Le Meridien Hotel, then proceed to Al Ula. On arrival in Al Ula we check in to the Arac Hotel dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

Sat 18 Feb: Al Ula Today we will spend the day visiting Al Ula. Our tour will start with a visit to the ruins of the old city of Al Ula and the Al Ula Museum. We will also see the Islamic Castle and the Old Railway Station then visit the ancient tombs cut out of the mountainside at Al Khuraibah. Return to the hotel for lunch, then in the afternoon we go by 4x4 to see the Nabatean ruins at Mada'in Saleh, an ancient city built by the same civilization that built Petra to the north in Jordan. We will also visit the Hijaz Railway Station No. 2, as well as Mammoth Rock and end at Hara Hill to view the sunset. Dinner and overnight at the Arac Hotel. (B/L/D)

Sun 19 Feb: Al Ula / Jouf After breakfast we will check out and depart for Jouf, with a boxed lunch and a sightseeing stop at Taima. Taima was part of the ancient kingdom of Midian and was home for the last Neo-Babylonian king, Nabonidus, who moved there in the seventh century B.C. One important archeological find in Taima is Taima Stone, inscribed with a religious text in ancient Aramaic and was discovered there in 1888. It is now in the Louvre. It was found near the great well Ain Haddaj which has been in use since Nabonidus' time and which, until diesel pumps were installed, required up to 60 camels at a time to draw water. Continue on to Jouf where we will check in to the Al Nusl Hotel. We will then have a brief tour to Sakaka and visit the Bir Saisra (well), Qasr Zabal and end the day watching the sunset. Return to Al Nusl Hotel for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

Mon 20 Feb: Jouf / Hail We will have an early breakfast then depart for Hail with a stop to visit the archeology center of Jubbah and the surrounding area, known for its huge collection of petroglyphs. Continue to Hail and check in at the Golden Tulip Hotel and have lunch. In the afternoon we will have a sightseeing tour of Hail. For centuries, Hail was seen as the "key to the desert" because it was the main transit point for pilgrims heading for the Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah and for traders traveling north or south in the Arabian Peninsula. When, towards the end of the Abbasid Caliphate, Muslim scholars of Hail took it upon themselves to protect and promulgate Arabic in its purest form. As a result the city became an important center of scholarship and learning. We will visit Qalat Aarif and Al Qashlat Barracks, then return to the hotel for lunch. Check out and depart for Jouf, visiting Jubbah and surroundings on the way. Check in at Golden Tulip Hotel in Hail for dinner and overnight. (B/L/D)

Tues 21 Feb: Hail / Jeddah After breakfast we will transfer to the airport for our flight to Jeddah. Upon our arrival we will check into the Intercontinental Hotel and have lunch. Afterwards we will begin our sightseeing of Jeddah, the Red Sea port and commercial center of Saudi Arabia. It is also the main gateway for Muslims arriving from around the world for Hajj or Umrah. The city is said to be the burial place of Eve, thus the name Jeddah, which is grandmother in Arabic. We will drive along the corniche to see the vast open air sculpture "museum" then visit the Al Tayabet Museum, a collection belonging to Abdulraouf Khalil, a lifetime collector of all types of cultural pieces - modern, pop, and antique. We will have dinner and overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel. (B/L/D)

Weds 22 Feb: Jeddah After breakfast we will start our sightseeing with the historic Nasif House, which is an excellent example of Arabian and Islamic architecture, and is now a museum. We will walk through the old city see other examples of older restored homes and buildings before going to the Alawi Souq for jewelry, perfumes, fabrics, incense, coffee, and more. Our next stop is at Al Chafee Mosque, then we will return to the hotel to pack and check out, then drive along the corniche to enjoy the open air sculpture museum. We will have a farewell dinner at Al Nakheel Restaurant on the Corniche, a favorite of Saudi families. After dinner transfer to the airport for our early morning departure. (B/L/D)

Thurs 23 Feb: Departure.

End of services.

Included:

Accommodations on double occupancy basis, full board (all meals)
Group visa
Group transfers in air conditioned motor coach
All sightseeing as listed in itinerary with English speaking guides throughout

Not Included:

International Air fare (call us for flight details and pricing), air in Saudi Arabia
Items of a personal nature such as phone/fax calls, room service, laundry, etc.
Tips for guides (about $8) and drivers (about $4) per person, per day
Optional tours and activities not listed on the itinerary

Single Supplement: $710

Family History Everywhere!

2011-10-14T20:08:00.000-07:00

These photos are from Rita's recent trip to Jordan. She visited with family and friends, and did some checking on hotels and restaurants we use for our clients. She was trying out a new restaurant that actually was a house that her mother used to visit all the time when she was young. Now it has been converted into a traditional Jordanian restaurant. If you go with one of our groups you will likely get to have a meal at this restaurant!

Levantine Adventure Tour - New Version for 2012

2011-10-14T12:17:00.000-07:00

Every year we have offered a tour called the Levantine Adventure that covered the countries of Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon. It is an award winning tour and one of our most popular. In light of the situation in Syria, we have changed the tour to an itinerary we noticed several clients had us create for their private tours. We hope you like this new version of the Levantine Tour! The original tour will be back when the situation permits.

Lebanon, Jordan, & Israel Tour
March 2 - 16, 2012 $4780 pp/do

http://www.caravan-serai.com/NewSite/Countries/Jordan/LebJorIsr2012.htm

Fri Mar 2: Welcome to Lebanon! Upon your arrival at Beirut International Airport, you will be met and assisted, then transferred to our hotel in Beirut for check in. Dinner and overnight in Beirut. (D)
Sat Mar 3: After breakfast we depart for a Beirut city tour. We drive to the downtown district to see the huge reconstruction project-taking place to create a new commercial and residential district of the 21st century. This project has actually discovered that the capital is standing on the site of a very ancient settlement going back at least 5,000 years. Recent excavations have uncovered important archaeological sites from Canaanite, Phoenician, and Persian, Roman, Byzantine, Omayyad, Abbassid, Crusader, Mamluke and Ottoman eras. The 1.80 sq. meters reconstruction project includes new buildings but constructed in the traditional style, besides hundreds of old structures that have been restored and renovated to its original shapes, including Beirut's souks and historical mosques and churches. Proceed to Corniche road and stop for a short walk in the favorite promenade of many Beirutis. Further along, the road climbs steeply to a cliff edge, which is the headland of Beirut, with an array of cliff-top restaurants and cafes-, a panoramic view of the bay and famous Pigeon's Rock. The road then leads down, stretching out to a beautiful sandy beach and a prestigious residential area of Ramlet El-Baida. Our city tour ends with a visit to the National Museum. In the afternoon we will head into the mountains to visit Deir El Qamar and Beiteddine. First we drive to Damour, a small town, 17km south of Beirut, and climb another 26km east, passing through the charming town of Deir el-Qamar (the residence of Lebanese governors during 16th century), until we reach the imposing palace of Beiteddine. The palace is the best example of early 19th century Lebanese architecture, built over a 30-year period by Emir Bashir. Visit the palace complex and its museums (costume and weapons of that era) as well as a fine collection of well-preserved Byzantine mosaics. Return to our hotel for a rest then we will have dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight in Beirut. (B/D)
Sun Mar 4: This morning we start with a visit to the Jeita Grotto, a beautiful natural wonder, and best caverns in the Middle East. Transfer by cable car to the caverns, which consist of two parts - lower and upper galleries. The lower ones are visited by boat ride, while the upper caverns you will see on foot. Enjoy the refreshingly cool temperature, the sound of rushing water, columns and sculptures that have been formed by water and time. After our visit we continue to Byblos and discover a town that goes back 7,000 years. Located 37km north of Beirut, Byblos is a charming small town of great history. Visit its ancient sites, and then explore the old part of the town on foot, starting from fishermen's harbor, leading uphill towards the Church of St. John the Baptist and souks. Lunch at a local restaurant in Byblos. We return to our hotel in Beirut for overnight. (B/L)
Mon Mar 5: After breakfast we head east again and cross the Mount Lebanon range and drive through the Beqaa plain towards Baalbeck, 85km from Beirut, to visit Lebanon's greatest Roman treasure, counted among the wonders of the ancient world. The site includes the temples of Jupiter, Bacchus and Venus, with the remarkable Great Court and the Hexagonal Forecourt. After our visit of this magnificent site we will drive to Ksara Caves for wine tasting, with a stop in Anjar, to visit this historical Omayyad site, located in the southern part of the plain. Lunch will be at a local restaurant in Zahle. We return to our hotel in Beirut for overnight. (B/L)
Tues Mar 6: We check out after breakfast and transfer to Beirut Airport for our flight to Jordan. Upon our arrival at the airport we will be met and assisted, then transfer to Amman for dinner and overnight at the Regency Palace Hotel. (B/D)
Weds Mar 7: After breakfast, begin the day with a city tour of Amman. Amman, the capital of Jordan, offers both the old and new. See the Roman Amphitheater followed by the Citadel, the Archeological Museum, Folklore Museum, and the beautiful King Abdullah Mosque. Afterwards we will visit some of the desert castles. In the 7th and 8th centuries the Umayyad Caliphs built the Muslim treasures known as the Desert Castles, east of Amman. These were originally hunting lodges, but of course they were the height of luxury at that time. Return to Amman for dinner at Tawaheen El Hawa Restaurant and overnight at the Regency Palace Hotel. (B/D)
Thurs Mar 8: After breakfast, we visit the Roman city of Jerash. In Jerash you will visit the ruins of one of the grandest Roman cities in the Middle East. You will see the Triumphal Arch, the Hippodrome, the Temple of Zeus, the Forum, the mile long street of Columns, the Nymphaeum, the Temple of Artemis and the Viaduct Church. The Amphitheater is still used for an arts festival and is remarkably well preserved. Next we will head southwest and down into the Jordan Valley to visit the archeological site of Bethany, the ancient settlement of John the Baptist and where Jesus is believed to have been baptized in the Jordan River. Continue on to the Dead Sea for dinner and overnight at the Kempinski Dead Sea Resort Hotel. (B/D)
Fri Mar 9: After breakfast, enjoy leisure time until 11:00 am, then we head to Mount Nebo, where you will visit the church on top of the hill from where, it is believed, Moses viewed the Promised Land. His tomb is also located at this site, as well as a beautiful array of mosaics in the floor of the church. You will be able to experience the spectacular panorama of the Jordan Valley, Jericho and the Judean Hills, just as Moses did. Our next stop will be at Madaba. In the town of Madaba we will visit St. George Church, home to a stunning mosaic map of the ancient Middle East. Afterwards we will head south to the fortress of Kerak. Kerak is a crusader fortress, built over older fortresses, located on the King's Highway in the area known in ancient times as Moab. The history during the Crusades of this fortress is filled with intrigue, treachery, and murder. But the history of this area goes back to the Iron Age and the ancient Nabateans. Continue to Petra for dinner and overnight at the Crowne Plaza Hotel. (B/D)
Sat Mar 10: Enjoy breakfast then we begin our exploration of Petra, the "Rose Red City." This incredible hidden city, inhabited by the ancient Nabateans, lay concealed from 100 AD until it was re-discovered in the early 1800's. Take a horse ride to the "Siq" (Canyon) entrance then walk the rest of the way through the narrow, winding cut in rocks into the valley. Your first glimpse of the magnificence of the place will be of the Treasury as you round the last bend on the pathway. The Treasury and the other buildings have been carved out of the canyon walls in the pink sandstone. Continue past the Roman Theatre, the Corinthian Tomb and the Palace Tomb. Dinner and overnight in Petra at the Crowne Plaza Hotel. (B/D)
Sun Mar 11: After breakfast, we transfer to Wadi Rum for a 4x4 jeep tour exploring the desert canyons, rock formations and more. The canyon or wadi is a nature preserve and has an abundance of desert flora and fauna, set in a landscape sometimes called the Valley of the Moon. Afterwards, transfer to Aqaba and the border with Israel at Arava. We cross into Israel and are welcomed by our Israeli guide. We continue to Jerusalem for dinner and overnight. (B/D)
Mon Mar 12: Enjoy breakfast then we start the day with a panoramic view atop Mount of Olives. We will drive to the Old City and visit the sites sacred to the three religions, including the Via Dolorosa, Holy Sepulcher, the Temple Mount, and view the Dome of the Rock at the Al Aqsa Mosque. In the afternoon we will visit the scale model of Jerusalem in the second temple in the Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book housing the Dead Sea Scrolls. Return to our hotel for dinner and overnight in Jerusalem. (B/D)
Tues Mar 13: We check out after breakfast and depart Jerusalem and drive via the Judean Hills to the Dead Sea. We drive along the shores of the Dead Sea to Massada where we will visit King Herod's winter palace and the last stronghold of the Zealots in their war against the Romans (ascent & descent by cable car). After a short dip in the Dead Sea we drive north, via the Jordan valley to the Sea of Galilee. Dinner and overnight at our hotel in Tiberias. (B/D)
Weds Mar 14: We start our sightseeing today with a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. Afterwards, we will drive around the Sea of Galilee and visit Capernaum, Mount of Beatitude which is the site of the Sermon on the Mount, and Tabgha, the site of the Miracle of Loves and Fish. We continue to Nazareth for a visit to the Church of Annunciation. In the late afternoon we will visit the Yardenit Baptismal site. Dinner and overnight at our hotel in Tiberias. (B/D)
Thurs Mar 15: After breakfast we depart Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee and drive west to Acre where we will visit the Knight's Hall and the Old City. Continue south to Haifa and enjoy a panoramic view from atop Mount Carmel and visit the magnificent Bahai Gardens. We continue our rive south along the coast and arrive in Tel-Aviv for dinner and overnight. (B/D)
Fri Mar 16: Breakfast and check out. Transfer to the airport for our flights home. (B)

For full details click the link at the top of the itinerary.

Join us in Turkey next Spring!

2011-10-14T11:37:00.000-07:00

Highlights of Western Turkey

Join us for this small group, intimate tour of Turkey. Caravan-Serai's tours are always much more personal, getting you even closer to the people and cultures we are visiting. With only 15 people you will be able to have more contact with our guide and hear them better and ask more questions. And we make sure we use comfortable, air conditioned buses, with room for everyone to spread out and relax in between stops.

We are mostly staying in smaller boutique hotels, often found in the center of the historical districts, and located in older buildings that have been renovated. Our lunches and dinners will be at local restaurants - where the locals dine, not tourist-oriented venues.

It's our mission to provide you with an experience of a lifetime, and we are good at what we do.

http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/TurkeyMar2012.htm

March 22 - April 5, 2012
$4720 pp/do, land only
Maximum group size is 15 people

Mar 22: Welcome to Turkey! On arrival in Istanbul, you will be met and transferred to the hotel for overnight.

Mar 23: Istanbul - Ankara After breakfast we will depart for Ankara with stops on the way for photos and breaks. Arrive in Ankara and check in to our hotel for overnight.

Mar 24: Ankara - Cappadocia After breakfast we will take a tour of Ankara, visiting the Haci Bayram Mosque, the Temple of Augustine, the Roman Bath, the Mausoleum of Ataturk and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, famous for its unique collection of Hattian sun discs and stag cult figures as well as spectacular Hittite statues and reliefs. Continue to the Agzikarahan Caravan-Serai and then to Avanos, in the central region of Cappadocia, noted for its lovely traditional homes, pottery and onyx. Overnight in Avanos.

Mar 25: Cappadocia Today we will have a full day of sightseeing in Cappadocia. Settled around 4000BC, the dwellings have been carved into the surrounding rocky hillsides and include churches painted with beautiful frescoes from the Byzantine era. Wind and rain have eroded the brittle rock into a spectacular surrealistic landscape of cones, capped pinnacles and fretted ravines of many colors. Continue to explore the Zelve Valley, and Goreme and the underground cities of Derinkuyu, Kaymaki, and Cuvasin. Stop at the village of Uchisar to enjoy the typical life style of this area and ride donkeys. Dinner and overnight.

Mar 26: Cappadocia - Konya This morning we travel to Konya, the center of the Seljuk culture. En route, we visit one of the best preserved caravanserias called Sultanhani. This caravanseria was built in the 13th century as a highway inn and used as a camel stop by the traders. Upon arrival to Konya we will visit the stunning green tiled Mevlana Mausoleum, known as the Green Dome and is Konya's most conspicuous landmark. There will be a stop at the Karatay Medrese, once famous for its colored tiles; this former theological school is now a museum of Seljuk and Ottoman ceramics, and we will see the Ince Minara and Ulu Mosque. Dinner and overnight in Konya Kartay.

Mar 27: Konya - Alanya After breakfast we will depart for Alanya. On arrival we will visit the vast Seljuk Turkish fortress which dominates the town from its promontory; the tall, octagonal Seljuk Red Tower; and the Tersane (shipyard). We will also visit Dalmatas and the museum. Overnight in Alanya.

Mar 28: Alanya - Antalya After breakfast we will depart for Antalya, another coastal city with a central old town called Kaleici. On the way we will stop at the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos to view the ruins and an amazing amphitheater. In Antalya we will see the Roman harbor, the old city wall and one of the most visible monuments - the stone tower called the Kalekapisi which marks the castle gate. Enjoy the souk and the pedestrian district where you can explore and see the old city up close. Overnight in Antalya.

Mar 29: Antalya - Pamukkale Enjoy breakfast at the hotel then we depart for the city of Pamukkale, known for its mineral water pools, in particular the spectacular white mineral pools that have formed a cascade down the slope. Pamukkale, "Cotton Fortress", has been a spa since the Romans built the spa city of Hierapolis around a sacred warm-water spring. The Sacred Pool is still there, littered with marble columns from the Roman Temple of Apollo. Overnight in Pamukkale.

Mar 30: Pamukkale - Kusadasi This morning, after breakfast, we will head to the coast and the city of Kusadasi. Along the way we will stop at Aphrodisias, dedicated to the goddess of love, Aphroditie. Nearby the site we will visit the museum of Aphrodisias. During Roman times Aphrodisias was home to a famous school for sculptors and the museum has an excellent collection of the statues. Kusadasi is a seaside resort where many cruise ships on the Aegean islands circuit stop. Overnight in Kusadasi.

Mar 31: Kusadasi - Izmir After breakfast we will check out and depart for a full day sightseeing tour of Ephesus. Ephesus is the best preserved and restored ancient city in Turkey. A visit to Ephesus which is known to be the commercial, the religious and the social center of antiquity, is one of the highlights of any visit in Turkey. Ephesus is probably the best combination of Greek, Roman and Byzantine civilizations, and with its mythological stories and spectacular ruins you will feel the life in ancient Ephesus. We will visit the Fountains of Trajan, Polio, the Temple of Hadrian and Domitian, private house, the Library of Celcius, Varius and Scholostica Baths, Bouleterion and the Great Theatre with a capacity of 25.000 spectators. After enjoying our optional Turkish cuisine at lunch, we will visit the House of the Virgin Mary, where she spent last days of her life on top of the Nightingale Mountain. Afterwards, we will visit rest of the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, and Archaeological Museum in Selcuk town. In the late afternoon we will drive to Izmir. Once famous for figs, Izmir (formerly Smyrna), is now Turkey's 3rd-largest city, the "capital" of the Aegean region, a major port and commercial center set dramatically around a huge bay and backed by mountains to the south. Continue to Izmir for overnight.

Apr 1: Izmir - Pergamon - Izmir After breakfast we will have a full day excursion to Pergamum. This city was renowned in Hellenic and Roman times for its great library and as the medical center where Galen laid the foundation for medical practice. Pergamum (or Pergamon) was an important kingdom during the second century BC, having grown from a city-state captured by Alexander the Great. The Asclepion (Asklepieion) of Pergamum was perhaps the world's most famous ancient medical center, and is the second-most important site in Bergama. Return to Izmir for overnight.

Apr 2: Izmir - Sardes - Izmir Today we will have an excursion to Sardis. Sardis was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Lydia, one of the important cities of the Persian Empire, the seat of a proconsul under the Roman Empire, and the metropolis of the province Lydia in later Roman and Byzantine times. Its importance was due to its military strength, its situation on an important highway leading from the interior to the Aegean coast, and to its command of the wide and fertile plain of the Hermus. Return to Izmir and we will see the Izmir Museum, the Old City and the Agora. Overnight in Izmir.

Apr 3: Izmir - Istanbul Check out after breakfast and if time permits we will have a city tour of Izmir before going to the airport for our flight to Istanbul. Overnight in Istanbul.

Apr 4: Istanbul with dinner at the Bosporus We will spend the day exploring this fascinating city of the Byzantines. Our tour includes visits to Topkapi Palace where the Ottoman Sultans ruled parts of Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa for over 500 years, the Blue Mosque, Suleyman Mosque, the Haggia Sophia, the Hippodrome, the Islamic Museum, Yerebatan - the Byzantine underground cistern, and shopping in the Grand Bazaar -- Istanbul's covered souk, and the Misr Charshi - Egyptian Spice Bazaar. In the evening we will have a farewell dinner cruise on the Bosporus. Overnight in Istanbul.

Apr 5: Transfer to the airport for departure.

End of services.

Includes:

Airport transfer on arrival and departure
Air conditioned minibus with 31 seats with a microphone
Accommodation in boutique or 4 star hotels based on double occupancy
14 breakfasts at hotels, 14 lunches outside of the hotel, and 13 dinners
Sightseeing with entrance fees as listed in itinerary
1 liter of water on the bus per person, per day
Izmir - Istanbul domestic flight
English speaking guiding services throughout the journey
Hotel tips
Bosporus Cruise tour by night including dinner and unlimited local drinks

Not Included:

Visa expenses to enter into the country
Personal expenses such as minibar, telephone calls, etc.
Hot and cold drinks during the meals
International flights
Tips to the guide & driver
Trip insurance

Single Supplement: $300

Family Farm

2011-10-14T00:23:00.000-07:00

This is Rita's family's farm near the city of Madaba.

Beit Zaman near Petra, Jordan

2011-10-14T00:21:00.000-07:00

These are photos from Rita's trip last month to Jordan. She visited this hotel near Petra. It is a traditional Jordanian village-style setting, and even has a traditional olive oil press (top photo). We will be having our groups and independent travelers stay here. The hotel is owned and operated by the local people from the tribe in Petra.

Photos from Jordan

2011-09-28T17:57:00.000-07:00

Here are some of Rita's photos from her trip to Jordan. She stayed at her family's farm in Madaba, and was able to enjoy visits and dinners with friends and family. The first set of photos here are from meals at the farm.

Preparing mansaf- a traditional Jordanian dish made with rice, stewed meat, and a yogurt sauce.

Sprinkling pine nuts over the mansaf.

Ladling the yogurt sauce onto the mansaf.

Eating mansaf the traditional way.

Family enjoying the mansaf.

Stuffing grape leaves.

Preparing skewers for the BBQ

BBQ Kabob

Tabouleh

Home in Seattle at last

2011-09-25T21:41:00.000-07:00

Sept 20: Made my connection in Paris and off to Seattle and I am hoping for some cool weather and rain. That flight was also full, and when arriving at SeaTac I noticed that about 3/4 of the people were going into the visitors lane and the others were the US citizens. Wondering why they are all coming to Seattle and if they are working or just visiting? Customs was very strict here, I usually come into Chicago or New York and even SFO which is very easy. I asked the guy at customs why they were strict with food products like nuts etc- and he said that it is a smaller airport and they don't get as much international traffic as the other airports so they have more time to really check things. I spent about a half hour talking to them to see what people can and can't bring in - it seems that Jordan has been cleared for a lot of food items. If you try and bring food items like pumpkin seeds or nuts, from Lebanon, they won't be allowed. But if they came from Jordan (package says Jordan on it) then it is ok.

Nice to be home and sleep in my big bed and have Omar (my Yorkie) sleeping above my head.

Time to come home

2011-09-25T21:14:00.000-07:00

Sept 19: What is so interesting in just the six months since my last visit is to see a high percentage of the people wearing their religion on their sleeve, so to speak. The Muslims from the way that the women dress and the Christians are wearing their crosses. Either I have never noticed it before, or it is much more obvious now- not really sure, but not a comfortable feeling, but I do hear that throughout the region.

The wind started to blow this evening and it was so pleasant to sit for the last time out in the orchard and work on my computer doing some emails. I had just gotten a call from a journalist that was planning on coming to Jordan and wanted me to set him up with my contacts to do a story on the region. Got that done along with some email introductions. Friends came and said their good-byes before I had to leave to the airport (which has a really a great duty free shop for some last minute Arabic sweets and nuts).

The flight on Air France was full all the way to Paris.

Update on Syria from Rita

2011-09-25T20:50:00.000-07:00

Sept 16: Spent the day talking to people about Syria who had just returned or had been asked to leave by their companies and are coming to Jordan. A lot of the UNRWA and other NGO's have closed their offices. The American Embassy is still open but has only 28 people still there for now. They are stating that Ambassador Ford will just finish the year and then it might be closed. That is really sad when you think that it just re-opened.

The fighting is still taking place with both groups doing atrocities to the other. I was told by a friend that Asma, the wife of Bashar Al Assad, is still in Damascus and she went to visit the Red Cross, trying to talk to people and see if she could help in cooordinating talks between both sides. There are also rumors that Mazin is not letting her leave the country with the kids, but we are not able to say if that is true or not.

I was trying to figure out before I came why there are no curfews, I have been told that if they had curfews similar to during the reign of his father that you might have a lot more violence and bloodshed. This way people still have some freedom to get out and say what they want. One of the main slogans is "Alawites out (this is the ruling party in Syria) and the Christians to Lebanon".

The people in Damascus and Aleppo, the two major cities in Syria, are more upper class and have made lots of money during Bashar's reign and they want to keep him. Life has been good for them. Better than the time of his father. That is one of the reasons that there are very few demonstrations there. The places having the most trouble are the border cities and also in Hama and Homs were massacres years ago during the reign of the Bashar's father, Hafez Al Assad. That is another one of the slogans: "Revenge for our fathers, mothers, brothers and sisters".

News & Topics of Conversation

2011-09-25T20:15:00.000-07:00

Sept 15: Still in Madaba and listening to the news that there is a demonstration in downtown Amman. The Israeli ambassador has left Jordan for security reasons, and the Palestinians and Jordanians are demonstrating in front of the American embassy and burning the flag. They are not happy with America's total acceptance of Israel's actions and policies. Especially with what is happening in Gaza. The demonstrators are peaceful and the soldiers and police stay to the side so that nothing happens. They feel if they go into the crowd it will cause problems.

People still go about their business and try and keep a sense of calm. There are tensions between the Palestinians and the Jordanians and also the Christians and the Muslims. Everyone is watching what is happening in Syria to see if it will spill over into this area. So far nothing. The Christians have a feeling that if the Christians are kicked out of Syria and sent to Lebanon, as some of the slogans that are being shouted say, the same will happen to them here. But neighbors and friends are talking to each other and say that we are still friends and families, there is no way that anything like this will happen.

These are topics of conversation all over the country in coffee shops, in homes, and in restaurants etc.

Had a BBQ today with friends and family. We had all kinds of meat and salads and Arak in the hot sun. Singing and dancing and playing the tabla.

Dinner with friends & family in Jordan, and a Syria Update

2011-09-20T01:32:00.000-07:00

More from Rita on her stay in Jordan.

Sept 13: It seems like we never get to bed before midnightand later each night! I went to a friends house and had the famous dish of mansaf - it was fabulous and we all ateand ate standing around a table with our hands the traditional way. The rest of the day was totally lost afterhaving such a heavy meal and the heat.

Sept 14: Listening tothe news and calling family and friends in Syria. All of them telling me notto come now. Also the government hasmade it illegal to be using US Dollars. Had a friend working with the UN and they came to Jordan tochange all the funds and figure out how they were going to deal with payingpeople. I called some merchants I knowand asked them what they are doing and they had all set up accounts in othercountries to be able to still conduct business. They said they were taking orders from other countries and then sendingthe items through to Jordanor Lebanonand then out. This is all they could doto keep going and making some money to live. There has been no tourism in the country for the last severalmonths.

More from Jordan

2011-09-19T12:40:00.000-07:00

Sept 11: Each morning I get up, make myself some tea and goout to the orchard and relax, read a book, or let my mind wander. Listening to the news now and what ishappening in the USto commemorate 9/11. I got a copy of aninterview I did with KUOW before I left, and it feels strange listening to itand feeling so relaxed and not really thinking of anything.

Went to the city today to get some things. Walking around the town of Madaba and seeingsigns all over the place with our family name and different people from thetribe and realize what it would be like living in a small town. The population is 150,000, it really isn'tsmall, but when most of the people are related to you it is very, very small!

Sept 12: This morning I woke and went to the Allenby Bridgeborder crossing with Israel. I wanted to see what had changed and the processthat clients go through to go across. Thedrive from Madaba down to the Dead Sea to thecrossing takes about 45 minutes. It was reallyhot (about 85) and getting warmer. Gotthere and talked to the police about what I wanted to do and see if I couldtake pictures. They were very helpful,but no pictures. The crossing, if doingVIP services, is $94 one way. You get togo to a special lounge to wait and someone comes and takes your passport andwill get it signed and stamped. You arethen taken to a waiting car or a van depending if you are traveling alone orwith others. The crossing takes no morethen 10 minutes. If you do not take theVIP service (which we normally include in our tour services) there are busesthat leave every half hour and you have to do your own paper work and carryyour own luggage. Most of the peoplethat are working there are from the secret police. The VIP lounge is run by a private company contractedwith the government. They will call tothe Israelis and tell them that you are coming and then someone from the Israeliside will meet the car or van and take you to a lounge.

The Israeli side doesn’t move as fast as the Jordanianside. Then it also depends if you are anArab of Palestinian descent. You couldhave been born in the US, but you had family in Jerusalem or they have property- they will have all this listed and they ask you these questions to verify, thenyou go thru a series of questions back and forth and one agent to another andmaybe after two or three hours they will let you go. It is unbelievable how much information theyhave on Jordanians and Palestinians. When you give your name they will pull it up and let you know when youlast came in to Israeland where you stayed and also the name of your father and grandfather etc. If you are an American with no other papers,and not with any political group, it is quite easy to go in to Israel. I entered Jordanwith my Jordanian passport so when leaving Jordanfor Jerusalem I have to give them my Jordanian passport,and then go in to Israelon my American passport. I had to tellthe Israeli border officer that I was doing that since I had no Jordanian visa/entrystamp in my American passport.

People don’t realize that you can enter Jordan at theairport and get a visa on arrival. Ifyou are flying into Israelfirst and then going to Jordanyou need to get a Jordanian visa from the embassy in the US – they donot issue the visas on arrival at the border crossing.

Rita in Jordan

2011-09-19T11:07:00.000-07:00

The owner of Caravan-Serai Tours, Rita Zawaideh, is in Jordan right now and has sent her daily diary to be posted on the blog so you can get a first hand account of what she is seeing there. Her family is there and she is staying at their farm just outside the city of Madaba. They grow olives, grapes, and other foods, and raise a few animals. The Jordan office is also in Madaba. The posts are being broken up into smaller pieces, and here are the first few days. Photos to be posted soon too! Enjoy!

____________________________________

Sept 8: After 14 hours of flying I arrived at Beirut airport. I was making a connection to Amman from here and I was really surprised athow full the Beirut-Amman flight was. Iwas trying to figure out why and started asking people -most of them it seems areLebanese that usually drive to Jordanto see relatives, but because of the situation in Syria they’re flying. The airlines have added more flights to beable to handle all the traffic going both ways. No one is driving since they are not sure of the situation and what ishappening from day to day. A lot of theproblems, I was told, are at the border towns.

The flight took off on time and I finally arrived in Amman at 6pm after having left Seattle at 10am on the 7th. I had my nieces and nephews meet me at theairport for arrival and then I was driven to the house about 30 minutes away inthe town of Madaba.

Sept 9: Waking up to peace and quiet, not really feeling anythingof the world around me. Sat outside inthe orchard with the grapes dangling down and being able to pick them and eatfresh grapes off the vine, the kids bringing in bread with thyme and oil, leben(a yogurt without water similar to cream cheese but so much better for you),olives, jam, white cheese - a feast fit for a king. There is a nice breeze andthe smell of jasmine. I eat away andhave my tea while sitting on a rocking sofa, day dreaming. I enjoy talking to the kids and relaxing,getting over the jet lag.

In the afternoon we go to the office to check onreservations for clients. Up the streetis a salon and I am able to have my brows done with string – a traditional wayof plucking them. It hurt but is so fastand lasts a lot longer then using wax!

Sept 10: We start to cook for the clients that are here in Jordan - theyhave been invited to the farm for a traditional Jordanian meal. We are making grapes leaves, stuffedzucchini, tabbouleh (parsley salad,) rocca salad (made from arugula) yogurt andcucumber salad, humus, chicken sumac rolls, stuffed pastries with cheese,spinach, sausage, so much food. Thegroup comes by 1pm, they have no idea that I am in Jordan and are surprised that I amhere. We visit for a couple of hours andeat and they get to meet the rest of the family. We then send them on their wayto Kerak and then to Petrato spend the night.

Tonight friends come over and we have a nice night of musicand dancing and just playing around. Lots of discussions about what is happening in the region, but really nofeeling or idea of what is going on around us. It is so strange since in the states I am glued to the news.

Looking forward

2011-08-03T17:43:00.000-07:00

After quite a tumultuous spring in the Middle East and here at Caravan-Serai Tours, we are looking forward to getting back to "normal" this fall. People are starting to get over the shock of what happened in the wake of a demand for democracy in decidedly un-democratic countries, are are beginning to think about traveling there again.

Of course, there are still places we do not recommend you travel to, such as Libya, Syria and Yemen, but destinations such as Jordan, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, Iran, and Saudi Arabia are safe. We also have a group planned for Oman and Dubai this fall!

Be sure to check our website (which is undergoing renovation right now!) to see the latest tour offerings. Join us in Turkey next spring, or Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia in April 2012. And as always, we can do private tours to any of our destinations.

It's been a crazy spring, but we are getting back on track with travel to the Middle East and North Africa, and we hope you will too!

A few more photos of India

2011-05-04T16:41:00.000-07:00

Amber Fort, Jaipur

Jaipur

Inside the Amber Fort

Rita (left) on her birthday elephant ride at the Amber Fort

A man with is monkey

Parlaiment buildings in Dehli

Snake charmer on the street in Dehli

Taj Mahal

Final post about Rita's trip to India

2011-05-04T16:32:00.000-07:00

To finish off the last report - I went to a shopping mall in Delhi - just like any Mall you will see in the world except all the security. There are metal detectors before coming into the mall, then the security in the stores is unbelievable- about 3 or 4 people in a store and I am talking about small places. I tried to see if this is always the case or something different, but people say they have had it for a long time.
Walking in Delhi I now see the traffic for real - and the cars, bicycles, motorcycles, cows, goats, etc- every mode of transportation in this place all on the same streets, makes it very hard to move around. I was telling Maha in my office that we thought the traffic in Cairo, Egypt was bad, but there is no comparison. Cairo is like a dream walking between the cars to get to the other side of the street, but here in Delhi you really are taking your life into your hands by doing crossing the road! I did it and put my hand out as I was crossing, but it did not seem to help much. You still had to jump and run to make it. They do have overpasses and also a subway system, but it didn't seem like it was used when you saw the number of people out on the streets. But I am told it is used a lot, just with a huge number of people that come in from the villages it’s hard to tell.

Also, you do see the beggars, all over the place and wonder how these people survive. There is a huge difference in the classes - you have the very powerful Indians that are wealthy and own so much and also they are the ones that control the contracts for outsourcing and then a middle class that is now working in those businesses, and then a poor class and then a very, very poor class.

I think it will take India a long time to get out of this and join the modern world in so many ways. I am ready to leave this place with so many mixed feelings about trying it as a destination, not knowing if I could get all the services that I want for clients, or should this be something that is pushed for the adventurous that do not mind the long bus rides or the trains to move around. There are flights between some of the major cities, but travel to others would need 5 or 6 hours on the road, with not that many rest stops that are clean or provide food and facilities. I would definitely not recommend people to go during this time of year (May through the summer), but to go earlier in January, February or March or late in the fall - any other times would be very hot and not especially relaxing or enjoyable in that kind of heat.

All in all it was an interesting experience, but I am ready to get back to rainy Seattle, to my own bed and also have some cheese. That’s one thing that was hard to find here so if you are a cheese fanatic, like me, not much in this country.

At the Delhi airport waiting for the flight it has been delayed two hours, the shopping is not that great mostly like any duty free shop- so if you want to buy trinkets and local goods do before departing, it is not like most airports that have local handicrafts for sale – just western items, liquor, candy, etc.

Announcement made in Hindi, only way to know was watching all the people line up - no numbers or seating called out, no handicap, or parents with children loading first - it was first come, first on board - you did have seats assigned, don't get me wrong on that.

The flight is crowded. Because of the strike they were waiting for other flights to come in and connect with this one. We ended up leaving another hour later - so the flight was three hours late. I found people on the flight to be very pushy and not polite. I had a woman next to me that was sitting in the middle seat of three seats - I asked her to move to the aisle so we would have a middle seat between us. She said no, this was all hers and I needed to move somewhere else. I sat down next to her and refused to move and she kept poking me with her elbow. Now this is a woman that was about my age and maybe older. Very aggressive, I just thought this is not worth it and moved to another aisle seat. Once the plane left the ground someone else tried to do the same thing and she did the same to her and that woman left. That old lady got what she wanted and slept on the three seats. I was not very nice, when she left to go to the rest room I "accidentally" spilled a bottle of water on her seat......... I then had a good sleep in my other seat and forgot about her. As I say when you get older, you don't care what people say about you or what you do-----I like being older.

Good night

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

May 4: Well after a 22 hour flight I am exhausted and so happy to be in Seattle with the rain and the cooler weather - getting a cab home and making myself some hot tea with crackers and cheese, and my little Omar jumping up and down excited to see me. There is no place better than home and in your own bed. I will be thinking about India and if we at Caravan-Serai might include it as a destination in the future.

Agra and back to Dehli (sent late May 1st)

2011-05-03T10:46:00.000-07:00

Rita's last day in India:

Left Agra last night after visiting the most unbelievable museum in Kohinoor - it has the most beautiful gems - emeralds that are billions of dollars and also pictures that were made from gems and embroidered with silk threads on top of silk thread so made it seems three dimensional. The artist has been written up in National Geographic. Some beautiful stuff and the owner is so humble and nice - it is a family run business.

Then we had a long drive back to Delhi - it took 5 hours and the traffic is really very heavy in the evening.

Before I left Agra I went to see the Oberoi Hotel where every room in the hotel has a view of the Taj Mahal. For $500 for a standard room the service and the people and the location are perfect. They have a great spa. The prices were about the same as other hotels that I visited. I was surprised at the prices for 4 star hotels – they were very high, running at $250 and upwards for standard rooms.

Agra is a shoppers paradise and you can get a lot of beautiful items and a lot of jewelry in garnets, rubies, sapphires for very low prices. But it depends on the quality like everything else. Also you will find sandals, shoes, and other leather goods. So come with an empty suitcase to carry your gifts back. I came with a carry on and really had to stop myself from not buying up a storm, which I usually do.

Today is my last day in India before I take a red eye flight out of here. Hoping that the flight will go out since Air India is still on strike and 126 flights have been cancelled. Only 10 pilots have shown up to work. What the airline is doing for some is taking people by train to other big cities and combining the flights. This would mean filled flights. Which will not be great - the flight that I had on the way over was half empty so I was able to stretch out and sleep most of the flight over. Air India, if you have never flown it, is really a good airline and the flight attendants were so nice and accommodating to everyone.

Going out for some last minute shopping and running around to the city. I am told that the temperature is down to 98 today so it will be a bit cooler.
Back with more later.

Taj Mahal ~ Amber Fort ~ Elephants (sent May 1st)

2011-05-03T10:20:00.000-07:00

Here is another post from Rita on her trip to India.

This is the day I was waiting for - going to Agra and seeing the Taj Mahal. It is everything that you expect and more, really an incredible site. The guide told me that about 3 million people visit this place a year. I would not recommend coming in April or May and the summer. Today we started out at 5:30am to miss the heat, but that is really not the case since it is hot no matter what! The temperature today was at 114 and when you come from Seattle OMG that is hot (and humid!). No matter how much water you drink you would lose it faster then you can imagine with the sweat.

I spent about three hours just looking and wandering around the grounds that are kept so clean and green. I can see why the Indians are so proud of this place, so much Islamic architecture and workmanship in the tiles and the carvings. It is one of those places that you could come back to time and again. One visit is not enough.

I stayed at the Orient Taj Hotel which is only about a 10 minute ride to the Taj. Then you need to take a little motor bus to the entrance and walk about 10 minutes to get to the gate. Lots of security -people are not allowed to take in food, or any other objects like files, notebooks, pads, or paints; just a camera and water only. They are afraid that people will be picking at the mosaics and trying to remove them or afraid that someone might carry a bomb in the other materials. The hotels also have a huge amount of security here. Pat downs and screening of bags etc. I believe a lot of this is from the hotel bombings they have had. They need the tourism.

The only thing in India that is annoying is all the vendors- they get into your face and try and hawk their wares- they do not understand NO - you are suppose to just keep walking and have no eye contact or anything with them. Once you talk that means you are interested and they will keep at you even when you get into your bus. I have never seen anything like this. When traveling in the Middle East or North Africa once you say No or “go away, I am not interested” they usually leave you alone. Not here. You get this from little kids to adults, all the same. You have to keep yourself from not shouting Leave Me Alone! That is the one thing that was very hard to deal with.

Still not seeing a lot of beggars, though. In the villages that you drive through you do see little kids at the bus that are putting their hands to their mouths asking you for food - I would get some cookies or something and give it to them, but it was not enough they would keep wanting more. They would not say THANK YOU or anything just as if you did nothing. It was very interesting.

I had a man wait for me with a bicycle carriage and I was told to give him 50 rupees which is about 1US I thought he waited so long and was nice that I gave him 5USD - he asked for another 5US and said you are American and have money give me more.

Agra the city is very crowded and people come here for the Taj and also for the Agra Fort which is still in use by the military, but they will show you around. You get to see about 25 percent of it. The city is also known for its leather and shoe factories.

Rita's Trip to India

2011-04-29T12:18:00.000-07:00

Rita sent this post from her trip to India, which she is checking out to see about adding to our list of destinations.
-----------------------------------------------------
I arrived in Delhi after a 13.5 hours flight from JFK - it wasn’t bad since the flight was half empty so I was able to stretch out and sleep most of the way.

India was not a place that I had ever thought of coming, but for some reason I needed to get out of Seattle and thought maybe this might be a destination for our clients, similar to the Middle East in so many ways.

I was met at the airport by a very nice young man and was taken to my hotel - the Rama Palace. This is an old palace that was purchased for a new bride back in the early 1900’s and has been restored - it is ok, nothing great. The only problem is that it’s too far out of town, I found out. I have to take a car for the one hour drive into the center of Delhi. After being in Delhi (at temperatures of 98 degrees), it’s very crowded but I have not seen any poverty, which is one of the reasons I had not wanted to travel here before.

Had a full day of sightseeing today from visiting their White House, beautiful green gardens and wide streets reminded me of Argentina. No beggars but so many motorcycles. It seems that it only cost $1000 to get one so everyone has one, or these bicycles carriages or little carts that are moving fast throughout the streets. Horns, horns and more horns- they honk for no reason at all.

I took a bicycle carriage through the old city. Felt so sorry for the young man peddling in between the cars and motorcycles and in the heat, we seemed to hit every pot hold there was. I think in the movies they make it look so glamorous and fun, but honestly it is not. I finally got back to the hotel, exhausted from being out the full day in the heat and just hit the bed.

Today I had a long drive to Jaipur, the Pink City. It is 5 hours from Delhi and the only way to get there is by bus or train, no airline flight. Read in the paper today that Air India is on strike, wondering how long it will last and how I will get out of here.

Jaipur reminded me of the Middle East with the building structures, palaces, and the Islamic art work and tiles. Also the names are in Arabic Diwan. Still no beggars, but the hawkers trying to sell their stuff. I was told do not talk to them, do not say NO because if you do it means Yes. Well I was trying to do it like the Middle East and said No - wrong thing to do! I got surrounded by so many and they would start at a price of 3,000 rupees for drawings and then go down to 200 . A rupee is running 44 to the US dollar.

Today is my birthday and I wanted to ride an elephant - which I did to the Amber Fort! The Amber Fort is a huge fort that is walled and has this long narrow walk way up to the top - it took about 25 minutes riding the elephant up. Way different than a camel - the elephant rocks side to side and the camel rocks from back to front. Elephants are more comfortable! It was a great day but the temp got up to 104-109 today, but it was a dry heat.

Went to the Taj Hotel for drinks –a beautiful place with incredible green gardens. Surprised at how much green there is with all the heat. People are so nice and humble, when you come into a building they put their hands together and bow their heads and say Namaste. The men at the entrance to most of the places, hotels, restaurants, etc wear the traditional outfits and long mustaches that curl upwards.

Not much on the news about the Royal wedding which surprised me. Their was a coronation of a maharaja in the provenance of Jaipur- he is 12 years of age- beautiful young man who is now ruling this area.

Will write more later going out to dinner now.

New tours to Turkey

2011-04-29T11:51:00.000-07:00

We have two new tours to Turkey scheduled for this year! It has been some time since we have had set departures scheduled to Turkey, although it is always a destination we are sending clients to.

Pamukkale

Our first tour in July focuses on Western Turkey. It will take the group to Ankara, Cappadoccia, Pamukkale, Antalya, then to coast and the city of Izmir and finally Istanbul. This will be an exciting intorduction to the country and will include sites of antiquity such as the Ephesus, the natural wonders of Cappadocia, the white mineral pools of Pamukkale, and the most important sites in Istanbul. To see the complete itinerary click here: http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/TurkeyJune2011.htm

Our tour in September will focus on Eastern Turkey and include Cappadocia, Trabzon, Mt. Nemrut, Diyarbekir, Urfa, Lake Van, Erzurum, and more. The tour will end in Istanbul with a tour of the city, then free time to explore on your own. A farewell dinner cruise on the Bosporus caps off this exciting look into a less traveled region of Turkey. To see the entire itinerary click here: http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/TurkeySept2011.htm

Lake Van

April Egypt tour quick report

2011-04-29T11:31:00.000-07:00

Rita:

Got home about 1:00 this morning.

The trip was really good. With only three of us and no tourist we got to spend valued time at
the sites.

Always felt safe. The Egyptian people are very warm, friendly and welcoming. They love Americans
and of course especially Obama.

Thank you for making this opportunity possible.

Dottie

American Group Welcomed in Cairo

2011-03-28T12:44:00.000-07:00

Today I spoke to Maha from our office who is with our group in Cairo. She told me a bit about their impressions of their first few days in Egypt and the meetings they have had so far with our Egypt experts. In every place they have visited so far, the Egyptians have been welcoming and happy to see Americans visiting. They feel safe, and if you didn't know (ie: if you had been living under a rock for the past couple months!) about the revolution, you wouldn't be able to tell just by being out on the streets of Cairo. Businesses, shops, cafes, restaurants are all open as usual, and any signs of the thousands upon thousands of people that had taken to the streets and Tahrir Square are almost gone.

Maha told me that in spite of the usual heavy traffic in Cairo, the tourist sites are almost empty. They saw a few groups of tourists from Germany, the Netherlands, and France in Old Cairo, but at the Pyramids at Giza, our group was the only foreign group there. Usually there are rows and rows of tour busses parked in the parking lot, but when our group went, theirs was the only one. They said there were a few locals there, but other than that, they had the place almost completely to themselves. At Memphis and Saqqara, it was also very quiet.

The hotels are equally quiet, so this means that those hotels with several restaurants probably don't have them all open, but the bars and cafeterias are open. The vendors are really eager to make a sale, and can be a bit overwhelming, but we have to keep in mind that while tourists enjoy less crowds, the crowds were what had been providing incomes to so many Egyptians. Now they have no one to sell their goods or services to, so they are really hurting.

Recently, a referendum was passed to allow elections to be held in about 6 months. I asked if campaigning was evident, and Maha said no. You would hardly know that elections were coming if you are a visitor.

The group has a guide with them, a representative from our office in Seattle and one from the office in Cairo, as well as security. There is a curfew from midnight to 6am in place, but it does not affect the group's schedule at all.

In the morning they will fly to Luxor, and visit the West Bank sites and the temples of Luxor and Karnak - both places usually swarming with visitors, but I expect they will find these sites also quieter than usual. This is really a great opportunity to see these sites without the throngs of people that can descend upon them. It will not stay this way forever as more and more people decide to visit Egypt, as word gets out that it is safe and things are getting back to normal.

We have another group departing for Egypt on April 10th, arriving on the 11th, that will also see the same sites and have meetings with Egypt experts in Cairo. Join us! Space is booking up quickly!

http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/NewEygptApr2011.htm

Tunisia - Where it all began

2011-03-21T13:03:00.000-07:00

This time last year I was visiting Tunisia with a small group of Americans, enjoying the Mediterranean and then the desert climate, the wonderful people, delicious food, and magnficent sites of this small North African country. This year we will visit to learn about the changes taking place and the recent revolution that brought down their president after 23 years of rule.

Travel to Tunisia next month with Caravan-Serai Tours to see where it all began. In mid-December 2010, the grumblings of frustration and discontent over un-employment, human rights, and police and ruling-family brutality exploded into full fledged revolution. The desparate act - a public suicide - of one man set the wheels in motion to bring down Zine El Abidine Ben Ali, Tunisia's president for the last 23 years. Protests grew and grew, with more people coming to the cities to join in the call for the end of the Ben Ali regime. On January 14, they got their wish as Ben Ali fled to Saudi Arabia. Now the people are in the process of rebuilding their government and preparing for elections as they begin a new era of democracy in the Middle East.

Our tour will focus on the most recent history of the country as well as it's ancient roots. Visit Tunis, El Jem, Kairouan, Kasserine, Tozeur, Chebika and Tamerza, Metlaloui, El Kef, Dougga, Sbeitla, and more. To see the entire itinerary click this link: http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/NewTunisiaApr2011.htm

April 14 - 23, 2010, $1650 per person, double occupancy, land only.

Be the first to see the new Egypt March 26 – April 5, 2011

2011-03-02T14:21:00.000-08:00

As the protesters in Egypt finish cleaning up the streets they are now turning their attention to making the necessary changes in their government, and a large part of that task will be to get the economy repaired and growing again. Tourism is a huge part of the Egyptian economy and it is important for the country to begin welcoming visitors back as soon as possible.
Caravan-Serai Tours is offering a tour of Egypt at the end of March to visit the historic places of the Egyptian Youth Revolution, and will include meetings with our contacts in Cairo, sightseeing in and around Cairo and Alexandria, and a Nile Cruise. This tour will be a great opportunity to see the monuments and sites of Egypt without the throngs of people usually present. Also, hear first hand from people who were present during the many days of protests at Tahrir Square.

This tour will be escorted by our own Maha Sarhan. A native of Egypt, she has lived in the US since the early 1990's. Maha leads groups to Egypt, Jordan, Libya, and Israel and she has traveled throughout Europe. She is fluent in French, in addition to Arabic and English. Before joining Caravan-Serai Tours, Maha worked with KLM Airlines for 5 years.

We are getting a group rate on Egypt Air from New York, so please call for details.

NEW EGYPT
March 26 – April 5, 2011
11 Days/ 10 Nights

Price per person:
Sharing Double: $975.00
Single: $1505
Air ticket: JFK/Cairo/Aswan Luxor/Cairo/JFK: $1220

Lecturers:

Amal Winter is an Egyptian-American psychologist in Seattle who currently lives in Cairo, Egypt during the academic year where she is Visiting Professor of Practice at the American University in Cairo’s Graduate School of Education. She is a member of Psychologists for Social Responsibility, the Arab American Community Coalition in Seattle, and the Arab American Institute’s Pacific Northwest representative. Her numerous consulting positions include the U.S. Department of State where she trains women in the Middle East to run for public office and the creation of training programs for panels of mediation specialists in over 450 Egyptian family courts.

Jere L. Bacharach is Professor Emeritus, Department of History, University of Washington, Seattle, WA. Born in New York in 1938, Bacharach attended Trinity College, CN, Harvard University, and the University of Michigan. He has been a member of the U.W. faculty since 1967 having officially retired in 2004 although he taught his last class in the fall term, 2007. While a member of the University of Washington faculty, Bacharach served as Chair, Department of History; Director, Henry M. Jackson School of International Studies; and Interim Chair, Department of Near Eastern Languages and Civilization. He has also been President, Middle East Studies Association of North America, President, Middle East Medievalists, and President, Association for Professional Schools of International Affairs. He has served in Cairo as Interim Director, American Research Center in Egypt and has held numerous other positions in various professional organizations.

His publications have ranged from the architecture of power in the Islamic world to the use of African slaves in military Muslim armies. His primary work has been in the field of Islamic numismatics where he has published numerous articles on fifteenth century Circassian monetary developments and tenth century Ikhshidid coinage. The latter appeared as “Islamic History through Coins”, which was the co-winner of the 2007 Samir Shamma Prize of the Royal Numismatic Society of Great Britain for the best book in Islamic numismatics during the preceding two years. Bacharach has twice been a Samir Shamma Fellow at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford and at St. Cross College, Oxford University and in 2008 received a Mellon Foundation Emeritus Fellowship.

Ancient sites in Saudi Arabia

2011-02-19T15:28:00.000-08:00

Here is an update from our Saudi Arabia tour participant, Dr. Kiracofe. Thanks for sharing!

-----------------------------------------------------------

Today I visited several most interesting sites in Saudi Arabia, the ancient city of Al Ula in an oasis valley green with palm gardens. The city was an improtant trading center and stop along trade routes. The city has been continuously in existance for at least 2,600 years. What we see today is the surviving mud brick architecture in a protected archaeological zone covering perhaps 20 hectares, with more modern buildings nearby.

I also visited three stations along the Hejaz Railroad built just before World War I by German engineers for the Ottoman Sultan. This historic railroad was part of the system the Germans were trying to build to connect Berlin to Baghdad and the Gulf at Kuwait. The Hejaz Railroad was also an important military asset for the Ottomans and for this reason the Arabs sought to disrupt it as part of their revolt against Ottoman rule. They had encouragement from the British. T. E. Laurence, known as Laurence of Arabia, became famous during this time for his activities in the area that included attacks on the Hejaz Railroad. I was able today to photograph these stations, and a few others yesterday, one with a train still in the station, though much deterioratd. There is one station and maintenance facility that includes about 16 buildings at Madain Saleh, near Al Ula, that has been restored. Inside the old maintenance shed there are some of the old carriages, one now completely rebuilt, and also one of the original steam locomotives. Most interesting. Outside there are several other carriages waiting to be rebuilt and they are carefully converting some of the buildings for use as a hotel, making this a unique tourism destination.

Nearby is the Nabatean city of Madain Saleh, with its famous funerary monuments carved into the cliff faces, just as they did at Petra. This site was built about 2,000 years ago during a time when the Nabatean people controled the trade routes of the Saudi Peninsula by controling
the oasis centers. It is quite a spectacular site, and the surrounding geography is some of the most dramatic I have ever seen. We went deep into the valleys in four wheel drive vehicles to see some amazing sand dunes and rock formations, unlike anything I have ever seen, so dramatic. In a way the area reminds me of parts of Arizona and New Mexico, reddish colored sandstone formations eroded by wind and sand over thousands of years. We watched the sun set over mountains at the far side of the valley, a valley full of unusual rock formations and palm groves....

Today was certainly one of the most spectacular days of adventure I have ever had... just amazing...I strongly recommend visiting Saudi Arabia! If I only saw the things I have seen today it would have been worth all the effort and expense of coming here, many times over...

As soon as I have time I will send along some of the pictures...

Best wishes to all

Cairo Update - 24 Hours and a World of Change

2011-02-12T20:25:00.000-08:00

Aljazeera reported 3 million Egyptians in the streets of Egypt waited 7 hours to hear what the army and the new head of the NDP suggested would be Mubarak’s resignation speech. They were stunned when he insisted on by Mubarak’s non-resignation speech last night. Incensed by his speech, and only half way through it, they defiantly waved their shoes in the air. And yet they remained peaceful I don’t know how they did it.

Today there are a million people in and around Tahrir Square and noon prayers have not even started.

Communiqué #2 from the Armed Forces Central Command

The military assures the people of Egypt that it will:
Insure repeal of Emergency Laws and the enforcement of free and fair elections
Monitor the steps to a peaceful transition.
Release the arrested demonstrators AND
Calls on all Egyptians to return to work and resume their everyday lives.

This means the military’s upper echelon essentially stands by the regime. The question is will the middle and lower ranks do so? So far 25 of its members have turned in their arms and publically stood with the demonstrators.

The muezzin is calling noon prayers.

I’ll keep you posted.

P.S. Adel Eltafti, former deputy minister for foreign affairs, said that Hosni Mubarak, Omar Suleiman are mentally incompetent to stand for trial and should be referred to a committee of mental health experts instead! I think they since they’re armed and dangerous to self and others someone needs to bring them in.

Feb 11th 2011 - evening

It happened in a minute.

My young companion, Mohammed’s phone rang as my grandson, Philip, exited Cairo airport’s arrival gate. “Mubark’s resigned! He’s resigned!” we hollered--not “Hi Philip, it’s great to see you.” We left the airport high-fiving and thumbs-upping every which way. Fifty people had gathered round our driver and his car radio. We drove to Tahrir Square horn-honking the celebratory rhythm associated with winning soccer games--the only occasions Egyptians have had to celebrate for 30 years. We passed cars flying huge Egyptian flags and large eight-wheelers with blaring horns. The road filled with cars as we reached city center; people calling out, “Mabruk” (congratulations) and waving peace signs out the windows.

I’d planned on taking Philip to Tahrir to join the protestors. I thought they’d go on for days. But, one minute did it. Omar Suleiman announced Mubarak was leaving and we rushed to Tahrir to celebrate instead! A crowd of millions; not an inch of pavement to be seen. Flags everywhere. Children on their parent’s shoulders. Young women in pony-tails; many more in hijabs; a few in full face veils. Young men and old. Egyptian people; peaceful people stretching further than the eye could see.

We stood near a group from an outlying oasis chanting to the rhythms of Bedouin songs. An almost toothless old man from Upper Egypt, a farmer in galabeya, skull-cap and wool scarf had been in the Square for a week. A middle aged lawyer who’d been at every Lawyer Syndicate demonstration had been in Tahrir every day of the 18 days. “This should have happened long ago,” he told me. “We let him do it. We made him who he is. Not anymore.” He was still coughing from the tear-gas he’d inhaled. The young man next to him pulled out his cell phone with pictures 40 pellets in his back and head. But this was a night of celebration. “Everything was worth it, il hamdu liallah—Thanks to God.”

To those who worry about an Islamist take-over. Please don’t reduce these great people to that. And to those who worry about a military one. The chants were: “Civilian. Civilian. Not military rule!”

Feb 12th

Today was the start of the new era. Everyone turned out to clean up the Square. By the time my cousin, her daughter and our grandchildren arrived with garbage bags and candy, almost every scrap of rubbish had been picked up. Young people proudly polished the lions statues at the entrance to Kasr il Nil Bridge. Others washed off the “Mubarak must leave” graffiti from the walls under them. They brought tears to my eyes.

The message is: We will clean up Egypt! The next steps are forming a civilian interim governing committee, writing a temporary constitution, taking it to referendum, electing a new parliament and then a president. And yes we can! Which reminds me—please thank Obama for his great speech in support of what we did in Egypt. I think we should nominate the country of Egypt for the Nobel Peace Prize.

Amal Sedky Winter
Cairo

Help for Egyptian Hospitals and Children

2011-02-09T22:01:00.000-08:00

Thank you for your continued support and words of appreciation for the updates we have been forwarding from Cairo. The response has been overwhelmingly positive and supportive and we are grateful.

As you know from the news reports (many of you have mentioned watching Al Jazeera English online!) and updates that the disruption to the people in Cairo and elsewhere in Egypt has been substantial. While much of the chaos is over, and the protesters continue mostly unmolested in Tahrir Square, there are hospitals and other organizations that desperately need help to get supplies.

We have decided to help raise funds to provide direct assistance to a hospital and an orphanage in Cairo. We are working with the non-profit educational and cultural organization Salaam Cultural Museum, a registered 501(c)(3) organization. If you would like to join us in helping, please donate. We have set up a donation page through PayPal and you can donate any amount you choose. You can also mail a donation check made out to Salaam Cultural Museum (SCL) to our office at 3806 Whitman Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98103 and we will forward it to the museum.

Please forward this to anyone you know who is concerned about the people of Egypt.

Our donation page is located at this link:
http://www.caravan-serai.com/countries/egypt/FundRaising-Egypt.htm

Thank you in advance for your compassion!

Cairo Update: The Empire Strikes Back

2011-02-02T07:33:00.000-08:00

Our friend in Cairo just sent us this update detailing the violent turn taken in the protests. We all pray for a peaceful outcome and a new government in Egypt, and that our friends and family there stay safe. If you have accounts of what is happening in Cairo, please feel free to share them here.

Feb 2, 2011

The Empire Strikes Back

Last night Mubarak promised that the current parliament would study the two constitutional articles that limit the rights of people to run for elected offices including the presidency for which he promised not to run again. The military told people to go home. Today, Mubarak and his regime mobilized a counter-revolution and sent hundreds of ‘pro-Mubarak’ demonstrators (There is clear evidence in the form of ID cards that these are the regime’s police accompanied by armed bands of their notorious thugs) to attack the thousands of anti-Mubarak protestors in Tahrir Square. Having defined the issue as stability (a matter very close to the Egyptian heart) and chaotic violence (of which people are terrified), they proceeded to create the conditions with which they threatened the country. Anti-government supporters held their ground, calling for Army protection.

Two and a half hours of clashes, many injured, but yet the military stood aside. Although it had plenty of tanks and armored vehicles in place, it let hundreds of people mounted on roughly 60 horses and camels which definitely posed a safety risk enter the square. They were accompanied by police officers from state security and “escaped” criminals (reportedly released by the regime) carrying signs “Daddy Mubarak and Mommy Suzanne, we apologize for the past days’ demonstrations.” Pelting them with rocks and cracking heavy whips, he riders rammed the protesters. There was nothing spontaneous about this attack. Organized groups joined them, a hundred at a time. These people were well coordinated; their signs and placards preprinted. They blocked every entrance to the square so that people could not join the anti-Mubarak demonstrations. No one could leave, so they dug up paving stones. Fears of a blood-bath to follow. They are praying in the square. If the military is not going to protect the people I hope international pressure will work.

The regime propaganda machine, especially government television, has been in full swing mostly frightening the populace while calling for calm. Meanwhile there’s no attempt to contain the violent confrontations. Unfortunately, the combination of unprecedented concessions, the campaign of disinformation, and the staged confrontations have had their effect. Those less sophisticated—and this applies to many of the poor and uneducated—are switching from opposition to Mubarak to supporting him, and the stability and personal safety he promised.

P.S. Rumors that Ahmed Ezz, parliamentarian and Gamal Mubarak’s friend, has been prevented from leaving Egypt. Habib Adli, minister of Interior has been held for investigation by army (which hates him).

Cairo Update for Feb 1, 2011

2011-02-01T22:45:00.000-08:00

Cairo, Egypt
Tuesday, February 1, 2011

“I used to call them the spoiled brats of the internet,” one Cairo woman confessed. “Now I kiss their feet,” she said, referring to young men who broke the Egyptians long record of endurance under a dictatorial regime.

Today, the seventh day of the revolt against President Mubarak and for democracy in Egypt, 2 million people are said protesting in Cairo. Some have estimated 8 million nationwide; that’s 10% of the population and that, technically speaking, is a revolution.

In Alexandria, the people are standing shoulder to shoulder from one end of that long city to the other.

It’s not the usual protestors; everyone knows them – like the Kifaya party (Enough) and the April 6 movement people.

No. This is everyone: we see huge clusters of women in their bright colored scarfs - like a meadow in spring - and the men don’t even flirt with them because the ethic of protest is respect.

Crowds open up for people in wheelchairs and assist those walking with canes.

The people, once assured that the Army’s interest was in protecting them, fell into easy cooperation. Troops and people parade side by side, Egyptian flags raised. They work together to check people for weapons.

People who live near Tahrir Square cook for the protestors. In Helwan, south of the city, supplies of cooking gas ran out. Some of the young men in the area located supplies in a neighboring area and delivered them back to Helwan, door-to-door.

In the upsurge of pride, some protesters have pulled framed photos of Gamal Abdel Nasser, president of Egypt from 1954 to 1970, off the walls of their homes and wave them above the heads of crowd – reminding their fellow Egyptians of the last time, during the pan-Arab movement, when they felt such self-respect and promise.

Everyone uses the same words of protest. Everyone is on message.

There is no doubt that Mubarak is leaving.

Power of the Army.
It’s true that the army has tremendous economic power in Egypt and that they may be thinking of their own interests as well as those of the people in allying with the protesters. But, in this country, the army is highly respected; it’s considered the institution of last resort and so far, they are deserving of that respect.

Furthermore, from a realistic standpoint, a revolution without their blessing wouldn’t succeed, if only because they hold that tremendous economic power.

Muslim Brotherhood, not.
The Brotherhood will not assume leadership. Contrary to what many westerners believe, they don’t have that influence - fact seriously distorted by President Mubarak, who wanted to keep his US allies nervous.

Amr Moussa interim leader?
Amr Moussa, whose term as head of the Arab League ends on Wednesday, could be the best choice for an interim leader. He’s 73, has spoken for the people for decades and has been treated accordingly by the regime.

The people know him and respect him. During the Africa Cup finals, President Mubarak appeared on the big screen to take credit from the players’ success. The crowds turned their flags down. When Moussa appeared, the flags flipped up.

America not looking good.
America is not looking good on the streets. If Secretary of State Clinton has spoken one day earlier, it would have been acceptable. Now the US is seen as too little too late.

We hear that the Americans are meeting with Mohamed al-Baradei, a big mistake. Here he’s perceived as being too far removed from the lives of the people, an impression he exaggerated by speaking to the people on television from the lush gardens of his residence.

Endurance of Egyptians
It’s used to be said that Egyptians can endure anything. If one revolution fails, the joke goes, Egyptians would shrug and say, “there’s always next century.”

This time is different. They’re using their capacity for endurance for their own benefit. Yes, food has run out in some places but, as with the cooking gas, people from other neighborhoods share.

Yes the doors of the shops are closed to prevent looting, but if you knock politely and say hello, they’ll let you in to shop.

Each challenge is met with a solution.

Each political disappointment is greeted with the response: ”We’ll just stay longer.”

The mood is absolutely celebratory. People who have been disgusted by their country are standing up for it. They’ve stopped quarrelling among themselves for the few available spoils. In a class and gender–segregated society, this is a stunning achievement.

Amal Sedky Winter, PhD

Caravan-Serai's Egypt Tours on Hold Through February

2011-02-01T14:34:00.000-08:00

Dear Caravan-Serai Friends:

In the wake of the civil unrest in Egypt and the travel warnings issued by the US State Department we have cancelled all our trips to Egypt until the end of February. We will know probably before that time if the situation is improving or not. We want to make the trip that you plan with us to be comfortable and safe and at this time we are not able to do that. We are offering the clients who have booked trips to Egypt for the next two months a full refund or to have the credit applied to another trip in the region or to do Egypt at a later date.

We are continuing to monitor the situation and we will keep sending you updates on what is happening there. If you want to get information yourselves on Egypt there is the web site of the US Sate Department at http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_egypt.html.

Our office and staff and family and friends in Egypt are all fine. We are in contact with them the old fashion way of land lines that have been working throughout these days of unrest. We are proud of the way the Egyptian people are handling the situation and taking control of the street - they have volunteers that are protecting their neighborhoods, protecting the area of antiquities and also cleaning the streets and set up their own security systems and searching people as they are coming to the rallies. People are feeling secure enough to come to these rallies with their families and kids. The first couple of days that you heard about with some violence was from the prisoners that were released and they are the ones that have been looting, but that is now pretty much under control.

If you have any questions we are in the office regularly and can answer them for you. We also want you to know that other parts of the region, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, Libya, etc. are still places safe to travel to. It is only Egypt that we are delaying our trips there for this month and will see what will happen. If you are booked for Egypt later in the year, we are waiving the requirement to pay your total balance 60 days prior to departure and changing it to 30 days prior to your tour.

Thank you all for you regards to the staff at Caravan-Serai and their families and friends that are in Egypt. Maha, in the office, is from Cairo and she is in constant contact with her mother and other family members and friends.

Thank you again and hope that you will consider travel to the "New Egypt" in the coming months

Rita Zawaideh, Maha, Brenda and Hamid and also our mascot "Omar Sharif" (the little Yorkie in the office)

Friday January 28th, Day of Rage in Egypt

2011-01-31T14:40:00.000-08:00

Below is another update from our friend in Cairo. This is an account of the events on Friday the 28th. Again, we thank Amal for sending these posts to us to share with everyone. We will continue to post as they come in. A larger protest is being planned for tomorrow, Tuesday February 1. We hope everyone will be safe as they demand changes from their governemnt and offer our support in spirit to their endeavors.

Friday, January 28, 2011
Cairo, Egypt

Friday of Rage.

To open this Egyptian “Friday of Rage”, the country’s Coptic Christians vowed they would protect their Muslim brothers while they paused in protests to pray.

The internet and all cell phones had been closed during the night. News was sporadic on Al Jazeera Arabic, the people’s primary source of information. Egyptian-run television ran clips of small gatherings in a quiet country.

Outside, thousands of people were exploding into the streets of every town and cities.

Mohammed al-Bardei, former Nobel Peace Prize winner and spokesman for authentic democracy in Egypt, was reported to have been put under house arrest.

Wel known politician Mohamed al-Sekki called on President Hosni Mubarak, whose regime is the focus of the disturbances in the country, to address concerns of protesters. His failure to do so thus far, three days into the uprising, has confirmed the popular opinion that he has little respect for the governed.

By 3 in the afternoon, 25, 000 in the northern coast city of Damietta had bombed the police station. Police station fires spread from city to city throughout the country.

By 4 pm, 100,000 were reported on the streets in Mansoura and 150000 in Port Said. In Cairo, police fired tear gas; in other towns and cities, police were said to be acting in sympathy with the protestors.

Numbers of protestors in greater Cairo, a city of about 17 million, were reported to have swollen to a half million.

In places, the police used live ammunition and protester were killed. One person warned that the police were using sulfur. During afternoon prayers, people stopped to pray – at the top of their voices – and petition Allah for support from the army.

The Egyptian Army, unlike the military, is respected for its professionalism and admired for its success in the 1973 war with Egypt. It is thought of as a people’s protector of last resort.

“The people call for the government to fall.” replaced the words of prayer . Over and over again, the demand bounded through the streets

When the retaliation came, demonstrators toppled a police van.

The government closed the bridges to Tahrir Square.

Those already in the square torched the headquarters of the Mubarak’s National Democratic Party (NDP), located in a building on the perimeter of the square and next to the Egyptian Museum. This victory, of considerable symbolic value, fed the courage of the crowd.

Journalists called for local news station to discontinue their reporting of disinformation.

In the city of Suez, located at the southern end of the canal and totally controlled by the NDP, demonstrations were violent.

In Port Said, located at the Mediterranean mouth of the Suez Canal, people swore they would stay in the streets till the government fell. Police refused to fire on them.

In Alexandria 50,000 gathered on the corniche in support of the revolt. Not a single policeman was seen.

At 5:45 in Cairo, police suddenly stopped firing and stepped over to join the protesters. In an operatic moment, the sides exchanged hugs and kisses.

Egypt has 1 policeman for every 4 citizens. They tend to be recruited from poor families, have little education and are very poorly paid.

At 6:15, the police resumed their assault.

The Army, said to have refused orders to shoot, arrived in Tahrir Square. The police left. The demonstrators went wild with happiness and walked hand-in-hand with the troops.

The joined to create a human shield to protect the Egyptian museum from the fire at NDP headquarters next door.

At 12:15 am, President Mubarak announced the he had excused everyone in his cabinet. He would remain on the job to ensure the security of his people.

Update from Cairo Jan 30-2011

2011-01-30T14:52:00.000-08:00

This post was sent to us by a friend who is working in Cairo right now. Amal is from West Seattle and is in Egypt doing work for the American University (corrected). We thank her for sending this update. If we receive others we will be sure to post them here.

Cairo, Egypt

Sunday, January 30: 9:30pm

Today, the fourth day of what must now be called an Egyptian revolution, 100,000 people showed up in Tahrir Square, the political center of the people's protest against President Hosni Mubarak and his government and for democracy and government respect of the people. Not a bare spot was to be found.

The size of the gathering was unaffected by the government's shutdown of the internet and cell phone services. Nor the fact that it shut down Al Jazeera in Arabic, the county's main source of news.

That fact is, that in spite of the tremenously rapid growth in internet and cell phone use in Egypt, the major pathways for news are mosques - whose messages sound throughout the city each day and which provide public gathering places for the people, and word of mouth.

Neighborhood are extremely tight-knit; people help each other - lending money, bartering for services, adjudicating quarrels, offering aid and spreading news. Since very few move house, the ties are long, complex and meaningful. Neighborhoods tie the country together. Word travels efficiently.

Mohamed al-Baradei
At some point, Mohamed al-Baradei, former Nobel Peace Prize winner and spokesman for authentic democracy in Egypt, announced that he would be willing to form an interim unity government.

The people's opinion of al-Baradie is mixed. He's been out of the country for decades, most recently as head of the IAEA International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), and many see him as an interloper and there are others with long established reputations for leadership and opposition to the government.

Still, in my opinion, it's important now that a titular leader emerge. The people will get tired; they need people to replace those who were in positions of power and who are leaving the country in droves. Among many others, President Mubarak's son, Gamal, often mentioned as a likely successor to his father - much to the people's disgust, is said to be in London with his brother and their respective wives.

Meanwhile, the police have returned to the streets and protesters keep the pressure on one of main sites of oppression, like the Ministry of Interior (known locally as the Ministry of Torture). Today shots were heard from inside the building and there are rumors that the Minister abandoned the country.

F-16s over Cairo

Early this evening, my apartment rattled violently. Two F-16 fighter jet coming in low to buzz Tahrir Square. The people shout louder. In a phrase which rhymes in Arabic, they yell "You fly; we stay"

Army tanks rolls toward square while rumors spread that they had been order to use live ammunition and that they had refused.

I suspect that's true. In Egypt, the army is thought of being on the side of the people. It would simply be "unEgyptian" of them to shoot

Egyptian's distaste for violence

People here are terribly upset by the violence. They genuinely hate to see people being hurt. They avoid confrontation.

In fact, a major turning point in the revolt was provoked by government violence. In the beginning, the protest was mostly young middle-class men; but when the police started bruising, bloodying and in some cases killing, the lower classes joined up en masse.

And now, as this very dignified rebellion progresses, people are proud. For the first time in my life, I see real pride in their faces. They are proud of the consistency and restraint in the protest, proud of protecting their own neighborhoods.

I believe we'll see a lasting change in the Egyptian psyche.

As an Egyptian-American myself, I am proud; I get shivers thinking about the folks out there.

-Amal Sedky Winter, PHD

Cairo, Egypt

Update from Jordan

2011-01-30T14:34:00.000-08:00

As I write this evening the people here in Jordan have been glued to their tvs watching events unfold in Egypt. The internet cafe where we are working is switching the tv back and forth between soccer and events in Egypt. We are in a smoke-filled room of young men smoking from hookas. As you are probably aware, Al Jazeera has been shut off in Egypt, as have been internet and wireless phone services. Yet, young people in Egypt have been beating the censors and figuring out how to use dial-up and other ways to get around the media blockade. Tonight (Sunday) the Arabic channels on live feed here in Jordan show Mohammad al Baradi has joined the demonstrations in Cairo. I have nothing to add at this point in terms of new information, as I presume the information you are getting on the Web, CNN, BBC, etc. is giving pretty good coverage. Our hotel has only one channel, and that is in Arabic. It is interesting to watch the Obama administration squirm and evaluate out how it can hedge its bets, but that seems impossible at this point. The Egyptian pillar of U.S. foreign policy in the Middle East is about to fall, and no one at this point can predict where things will go.

Like Egypt and Tunisia, Jordan has serious economic problems as well; the price of fuel and food is driving people to distraction. Gas is over $4.00 per gallon, food prices are going up, and salaries are low. Earlier this week there were demonstrations in Amman against a sharp rise in fuel prices. A young high school teacher, with whom we spoke, makes about $300 per month and wants to leave his country, but doesn't know where to go or what to do. We will be in Israel and the West Bank late in the day on Tuesday.

Kraig

Oman

2011-01-28T16:20:00.000-08:00

Here is another entry from Dr. Kiracofe. Thank you!

The flight to Oman left Kuwat about 10:30, full to capacity, stopped in Dubai to let some passengers off and take on some more, arrived at Muscat, Oman at about 2:30 am.

The airport at Kuwait for those not flying first class is not a pleasant experience, for those in business or first class there are some very comfortable lounges. Economy class passengers may use them for a fee, about $25, full internet, elegant coffee service, and etc.

In Oman I was greeted as I got into the airport building, before passport check, by someone from the hotel who walked me through the visa process (for a fee of 45 euros) and made the whole process of arrival absolutely effortless, smooth as silk, perfect, and then whisked me away to the really beautiful and nearby Park Inn Hotel. It is new, only open for a few months, but very lovely and thoughtfully designed with warm, welcoming staff (even at 3:00 am...) Rooms are in a modern idiom, using teak wood and colorful fabrics in a way suggestive of a beach hotel, and we are not far from the beach, I can see the sea from my window. The hotel also boasts fine dining in a number of styles and has an attractive and enticing room service menu. I was delighted to find cold beer, wine and even some whiskey in the icebox. I will leave the whiskey alone, but a cold beer was most welcome, indeed!

Breakfast was one of the best ever in a hotel, and it is prepared in a modern luxe show kitchen visble behind the serving counter, all dishes carefully prepared and presented, very tasty... charming, attentive staff, right there with coffee, and what ever else one might want. My driver/guide was waiting for me when I came down stairs. He speaks perfect,and refined English, and knows all about the various statistics that one might want to know and about the history of all the buildings. Like many in the tourism business in this part of the world, he is from India. We visited the most interesting and photogenic fish market (especially busy on a Friday) the corniche, then on into "downtown" Muscat where the Palace is. Beautiful new big white Toyota land cruiser, spotlessly clean inside and out (there is a fine here for driving a dirty car).

It is really not a big city, more like a big town, charming and intentionally beautiful with flower beds blooming fragrantly everywhere. The whole place has a relaxed pace, people are friendly, don't drive aggressively, are courteous to one another... in all a most pleasant introduction to a really fascinating and spectacular country, we went to a beach area where unusual rock formations run right into the sea, yellow golden colored stratified layers of stone at steep angle running into the blue, blue waves... the color of the water here is more a saphire or aquamarine blue in contrast to the more turquoise blue of the shallower Persian (Arabian) Gulf...

The company hosting my tour has an office here in the lobby of the hotel, so i will ask them if they can help work out a better connection for me to Riyadh. Gulf Air changed the time of my connecting flight in Bahrain so if I can't make a change I will spend the day in the airport at Bahrain instead of seeing some interesting historic places in Riyadh... so I am going to work on arriving in Riyadh earlier either on another Gulf air flight or some other airline... will have to wait til Sunday which is like our Monday... fairly sure I can work something out...

This is such a pleasant place (this time of year) that there are many tourists, mostly from Europe. In front of the Sultan's Palace here in Muscat (he has several, including one that floats, a huge yacht like an ocean liner) I heard a distinguished looking Omani guide, in traditional dress (incluiding a turban) giving a lecture in perfectly inflected German to an attentive group of German tourists of a certain age, some of whom were taking notes...

now for a nap on the roof terrace under a huge umbrella by the pool...

more of Barry's adventures in Arabia soon,
best wishes,
b

Kuwait: Visit to the Arab Fund Building

2011-01-28T15:57:00.000-08:00

Below is a report from our client Dr. Kiracofe who is traveling around the Arabian Peninsula before joining our group in Riyadh next month. He has sent us this entry about his visit in Kuwait. More to come about his visits in Oman. Thank you Dr. Kiracofe for sharing this!

It is 7:36 your time, 3:36 pm here. I leave for the airport at around 7:30 pm. Just came in from spending the day at the Arab Fund Building. It is the most fabulous building in the middle east, and one of the most amazing buildings I have ever seen. I showed up unannounced and asked to be permitted to see the interior, which I was told is very beautiful, an understatement if ever there was one...

I was told to take a seat in the spectacular lobby, filled with remarkable antiques from all around the Islamic world. 20 minutes later security showed me to the first floor to a huge atrium with a very elegant cafeteria to one side where i was shown to a table and invited to take coffee and little cookies. There a highly educated gentleman engaged me in conversation about Islamic culture, and we talked for half an hour or more about pattern formation and the meanings behind the patterns... Then he suggested we take a walk around, and for the next 4 1/2 hours he showed me all through the building, built for the Arab Fund, like the World Bank of the Islamic world, with office space, meeting rooms, dining rooms, sitting rooms, auditorium, one more beautiful than the next.

Islamic traditions applied to modern architecture with the most lush use of exotic materials and exquisite workmanship in all types of material, stone, marble, ceramic mosaic, brass, copper, leather, glass, wood, wool for carpets and tapestries... simply amazing... the finest artisans from all over the Islamic world, perhaps mostly Egypt and north Africa, but also Syria and Turkey... and the facility is available to the public for meetings, conferences, events, also to the diplomatic corps, universities, private companies, anyone may apply to use the spaces and they are equipped with every possible modern amenity for presentation and broadcast... extremely well done. The man who showed me through the building is the director of maintenance, he was the electrical engineer responsible for supervision of the electrical and mechanical systems during construction and has remained with the building since it opened, more than 10 years ago, but it looks like a new building. Everything is spotless and in perfect condition.... as i left he gave me a book about the building... gorgeous photography... worth coming to Kuwait just to see this building!

anyone coming to Kuwait with any serious interest in cultural things should come to this building. The man to contact is Ziyad Reja M. Khalil, zraja@arabfund.org They welcome people with a serious interest and are happy to show the building and encourage photography. I am very glad I went to see it!

More from Oman tomorrow...
best,
b

Syria Not Ablaze

2011-01-28T15:54:00.000-08:00

Hello Everyone: 1/28 Syria Not Ablaze

Traveling in Syria and elsewhere in the Arab world at this time is exciting and a deep learning experience. People in Aleppo (the second largest city) and Damascus are making references to the troubles in Tunisia and Egypt. We have been in Syria for the last week, but Seattleites' knowledge of events is as probably as good as mine, as information in Syria is restricted. I mostly have to rely on general impressionistic accounts and upon conversations with people who speak English. Nonetheless, there appear to be no troubles, demonstrations, etc. unfolding in the Syrian Arab Republic at this time. Life seems to be tranquil. The government has for some time blocked access to Facebook, My Space and You Tube. Yesterday, an English language paper in Damascus reported that all cell phone-accessed chat rooms would be blocked. The government is probably taking precautions no doubt, but it is a bit hard to read. We arrived in Amman, Jordan this afternoon, and went to an internet cafe, but discovered that their routing access had been cut off because of the troubles. But, I found another cafe that had access, for how long they don't know. I don't understand the mechanics of this.

I interviewed a couple of men extensively this week about the situation in Syria. Both men are educated, knowledgeable and fluent in English and have served in the military; one man is about 30, the other about 40, and the younger man is a graduate student in English at Damascus University. Both men said that the economic situation was very difficult and the availability of jobs, particualry for young people, is bleak. High food prices and general inflationary problems seemed to be the major concern of these two men, and I heard that from other people as well. Real unemployment is about 25%. The older of the two men I interviewed has been a hotel desk clerk for seventeen years and earns $150 per month, the same salary that he earned when he started there in 1994. He needs about $700 a month for his family to survive! The younger of these two men reported that, even if he gets a good job as a translator with the government, there is no chance that he will be able to afford to purchase a home. Both men also said that older people have vivid memories of the severe repression against the Muslim Brotherhood in the 1980s, when thousands and thousands of people were massacred, a chilling memory indeed. The English major said the university campus shows no signs of unrest. These two men believe that their government, although it has problems, is not like the governments in Tunisia or Egypt, and they are willing to give it time. Both men think that President Bashar al-Assad, whose portrait is ubiquitous, cares, is responsive and trying to address the problems of the country. However, both men, were very clear that the cost of living and jobs for young people would have to be addressed or future troubles may unfold. Yet, for the present Syrian nationalism appears to carry the day.

For now,

Kraig

New tour to Syria for 2011

2010-11-12T11:45:00.000-08:00

September 6 - 16, 2011
Syria: The Cradle of Civilization
$3135 pp/do,land only

Join us for this in-depth look at Syria, the Cradle of Civilization. This tour will begin in Damascus, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. See ancient Roman cities near Damascus then head out across the desert to the trade route center of Palmyra. The tour then takes us to the banks of the Euphrates River to see the ancient civilation of Mari, which flourished in the third millenium BC, and other ancient trade route outposts. Continue along the river and then across the northern plains to Aleppo, another city with ancient roots and evidence of human habitation that goes back over 10,000 years. The city is named for a story of Abraham who stopped here to rest his flock of sheep. We will explore the city and the surrounding countryside with its beautiful Byzantine Churches then head south to Damascus to get a glimpse of the crusader history of this country. A day trip to the magnificent Roman ruins at Baalbeck in Lebanon is also included.

Levantine Adventure Comments

2010-05-26T12:22:00.000-07:00

Below are comments sent to us by a participant in our most recent Levantine Adventure Tour. Thank you!

---------------------------------------------------------

My husband Bill and I travelled to Jordan , Syria and Lebanon on a Levantine Adventure trip sponsored by Caravan- Serai. We also did an extension to Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Oman. This trip proved to be a trip of discovery, enlightenment and a sensitivity to other cultures and faiths.

Since 9/11 I have had many misconceptions about the Middle East, mainly because of what I have read and heard on the news. I was prepared to meet with some hostility since I was not wearing a hijab or abaya.

Bill and I did not meet with any hostility either in the cities or in the small villages visited. There were many school children on holiday (Easter week) who would approach us and ask, “Where are you from?” When we told them we were from the USA and lived in California near Disneyland we got a lot of smiles and a big “Welcome to our Country!”

We had the good fortune to have the owner of Caravan-Serai, Rita Zawaideh with us on the tour. Her colorful past living in both Jordan and Syria made for further insight into the lives of people living in the Middle East.

Both Bill and I enjoyed seeing and learning the history of the many ancient Roman ruins, amphitheaters, mosaic masterpieces, visiting Petra (the Rose Red City, spending a cold night in a tent at the Wadi Rum(I used all three blankets given to me),visiting Palmyra and the great Mosques (which were awesome in architecture and design. The inside of the Mosques had Swarovski crystal chandeliers costing over 60 million dollars. We experienced a jeep ride in the desert (it was like being on a roller coaster (I did not like the ride….too scary). I also had the unique experience to go to a fashion show in Dubai. Wow! I thought I was in a New York fashion show…. models from Russia and Sweden modeling the latest in Western attire with Hip Hop music in the background. There were men and women who were dressed in their traditional long black robes and scarf, others in Western garb all seating side by side enjoying the show.

Our tour also took us to a winery in Lebanon. We actually liked both the red and white wines and bought some at the Duty Free shop to take to the hotel.

The highlight of the trip was visiting Rita’s family both in Jordan and Syria. Both families outdid themselves to prepare a sumptuous lunch to top it off with delicious desserts. It was a real treat to talk to each of the family members and find out more about their lives. All were so welcoming, warm and friendly.

I would recommend the trip to all. It was a trip of discovery, educational, enriching, a priceless adventure. Both of us are grateful that we were given the opportunity to travel in these countries. However, it was good to get back to the USA, Irvine, our bed and to our cat, Koko Chanel who missed us.

Betty and Bill

Wonderful Experience in Iran

2010-05-20T13:42:00.000-07:00

Below is a letter we received from a client who recently returned from a month-long private tour of Iran. The person it is addressed to is our local coordinator in Iran who handles all of our ground logistics there. Our Iran tours, both private and group, continue to receive high praise, and all clients are always amazed at how well received they are while in Iran. Thank you Mr. and Mrs. Waugh!

_________________________________________________________________________

Dear Ms. Sattari,

At the end of our recently completed month-long tour in Iran, I promised our excellent guide Siavash Amirsharafi that we would write you a note regarding his work for us.

We (my wife Charlotte and I) had an absolutely wonderful trip, thanks in large part to his efforts (and, of course, the planning and support provided by you and by Caravan-Serai). Not only is he extremely well informed (and, it seems, well connected), but he worked harder than any tour guide we have ever met to make sure that we not only followed the program but took advantage of additional opportunities along the way. He was very good at getting us through closed doors when we would otherwise not have been sure of admission.

Among his concerns was our well-being--making sure we ate well (if anything, we ate far too much!) and did not take ill, and "running interference" for us when we crossed streets in the (for us) somewhat daunting traffic in cities. I am an avid photographer, as he will attest, but he was always careful to alert me to instances where it would have been inappropriate for me to take photos.

Siavash is a real treasure. While I am sure he would perform as well for "ordinary groups", it is important that you assign him to individuals like us who have a deeper interest in Iran and its culture. As I understand it, he has guided and translated for various western scholars; some of them stay in touch with him, which is a tribute to his knowledge and abilities.

We have no complaints of any substance about the trip, which exceeded our expectations. And we hope eventually to be back to see places we did not visit this time (Khorasan is at the top of the list). Your country has so much to offer, we can hope that many Americans will visit; perhaps that will help to thaw relations on the official level, which I think we would agree are most unfortunate. Everyone we met was courteous and most interested to interact with American visitors; we in turn enjoyed every encounter. As a historian interested in the historic Silk Road, I learned a huge amount, but as with any such experience, importantly I learned how much more I want to know about Iran, its history, and its people.

With warm regards,
Dan Waugh

'News from Caravan-Serai Tours'

2010-05-19T16:35:00.000-07:00

'News from Caravan-Serai Tours'

Photos of Morocco

2010-05-12T17:03:00.000-07:00

Here are some photos from Morocco - just follow the link to the Picasa Web Album! I will work on captions so there will be more information on the photos soon.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bpskier/Morocco?feat=directlink

Home at last

2010-05-10T11:32:00.000-07:00

As I look back on the last two weeks, I realize how much ground we covered on our tour of Tunisia and Morocco. I also realized how many typos I made in my previous posts from what I have now found out is the French keyboard! I have gone back and corrected the typos (I hope I got them all!).

You never realize how much you get used to things being one way, and not even considering that there could be a different way, then you find yourself in a foreign country and can't type worth beans. A good analogy, I think, to remind us that there is a whole wide world out there where things are different than here in the US. It may be frustrating at first, but you come to realize that is normal for someone else. It adds to the experience and broadens your horizons. If everything were the same all over then there would be no need to travel, right?

So my next task is to go through all the photos and get some posted to give everyone an idea of the sites we visited, the landscape, and the people of Tunisia and Morocco. There are over 1500+ photos to go through so it may take a few days to get it done!

It was a wonderful experience, and much different than traveling to the Levant, or the Arabian Peninsula. Here it is Berber nomads rather than Bedouin. There is a strong French influence on government structure and administration and the education system. And while there are a few Christian churches, they are mostly a result of the French, rather than having deep roots in the region like they do in Syria, Jordan, and Egypt.

If you have been to the other regions before, and think that Tunisia and Morocco won't be anything new, please rethink that idea. You will be amazed at the differences from the blending of Arab, European, and Berber cultures. The food is much different, too, and quite delicious!

If you have any questions about the tour, Tunisia or Morocco, drop us a line!

Marrakech

2010-05-06T06:34:00.000-07:00

We are now in Marrakech, and on the last few days of the tour. We have seen a lot - some things on the itinerary and some things not.

On our way to Fes we made a stop at the town of Moulay Idriss and came around the corner just in time to be behind a funeral procession. We followed the procession for a little while as our guide explained the rituals for a Muslim funeral, from the treqtment of the body, prayers, and burial. As we followed to pall bearers and family - men only for the procession -we could see that everyone they passed stood out of respect, whether they were having tea or in their car, they stopped what they were doing and stood as the procession went by.

In Fes we had a great tour of the ancient medina, which is loaded with history. The winding passageways can be confusing and claustrophobic as the walls literally press in on the pathways. One of our visits was to the oldest tannery around. The skins are treated and dyed in a very traditional manner in vats tended by numerous workers. It looks like hot stinky work to first soften the skins then to color them - using only natural dyes. The colors are amazing! Poppy reds, deep indigo blues, pinks, purples, greens, yellows, all achieved using only natural ingredients. And the leather is so soft when it is done - jackets, bags, slippers of the softest leather you have ever felt. Photos of the tannery will be posted later.

Along the way I have noticed a flower here that looks very out of place: a giant purple thistle that would make any Scot proud - all over Morocco! Flowers have been everywhere we go - poppies in fields, jacaranda trees with their purple blooms, pink flowers, and of course roses.

We are off to visit the famous square of Marrakech then to have a special dinner tonight. More to come later!

The Kingdom of Morocco

2010-05-02T13:26:00.000-07:00

Today we began our tour of Morocco, arriving from Tunis this afternoon and taking a short driving tour of Casablanca. It was hard to leave Tunis, but hopefully we all will have an opportunity in the future to come back and see even more of the small North African jewel.

So here we are on the edge of Africa along the Atlantic coast. I have noticed a bit slower pace to things here, which is fine. Each country has it's own rhythm and I suspect the pace will change again as we move inland tomorrow.

We will be visiting Morocco's Imperial Cities of Rabat, Meknes, Fes, and Marrakech. I look forward to seeing Fes again after about 15 years since my last visit!

Hopefully I will be able to post a bit more regularly than in Tunisia. More later!

On the edge of the Sahara

2010-04-30T05:09:00.000-07:00

Hello from Tozeur. This tour has been great in showing the diversified landscape of Tunisia. From an almost European landscape and feel in the north to the Berber influence and desert landscape we have today. We spent the morning about 7 miles from the Algerian border in the oases of Chebika and Temerza. Beautiful contrasts. Unfortunately this post is going to be short due to the differences in computer keyboards. The qwerty type keyboard is not used here and it is almost painful for me to type and make sense.

As soon as I get the opportunity I will upload some photos of what we have seen so far. The people have been very welcoming and in many places we are asked why more Americans dont come to Tunisia. I wish I could give a quick answer, but I don't know why as a society we do not travel to this part of the world more. I mean, I do, but I just don't find the answer very logical, or based on facts. Americans are a rare sight in the Middle East and North Africa, but the place is crawling with Europeans, they come here in droves.

Ok, more to come later, its lunch time.

Tunisia!

2010-04-26T12:52:00.000-07:00

We had our first day of sightseeing here in Tunisia, in the capital city of Tunis. Our day started in Carthage, which is a beautiful site. The views are spectacular, to match the importance of the site and it's history. We also visited Sidi Bou Said, a small hillside town of white and blue buildngs, and lots of tourists. It is a cute town and will remind you of a Greek island village. The gardens and architecture are very enjoyable, as well as the views. We ended the day in Paris, I mean downtown Tunis, with it's tree-lined boulevards and sidewalk cafes, not to mention all the signs being in French, it is easy to make the mistake. There is even a sort of Arch de Triumph, which is really one of the arched gateways to the old city, or medina.

The people have been welcoming and hospitible, but sometimes communicating can be a challange if you don't know any French or Arabic. English is the third language here, but most people are fluent in French.

My computer time is limited so this is a short post, but there will be more to come! We are enjoying Tunisia, and will head south along the coast tomorrow. Hopefully I can add more then.

Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Feb. 2010

2010-03-07T19:56:00.000-08:00

Here is another entry from one of our recent tour participants - thanks Iryna!!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Feb. 2010.

First, a very big thank you to all at Caravan-Serai who made our journey around Saudi Arabia such a wonderful experience!!!!!

After many years living in different countries (Ukraine, Russia, USA, England, Switzerland, Dubai), I moved to Jeddah in Saudi Arabia about three months ago. My first priority in a new country is to learn about its history, culture, and most importantly try to socialize with local people. I searched the Internet for locally-arranged tours around Saudi without success until I found the Caravan-Serai website. I was really impressed with the wealth of information and positive reviews by travelers on previous trips including the countries of most interest to me, Saudi Arabia, Yemen, Iran...

Our trip took 12 days starting in Riyadh where I met up with our group and tour guide, Hatem Jameel, who is a Saudi from Jeddah. After two days in Riyadh, we flew to Najran (south, 15 miles from Yemen), then by road to Abha (took a cable car to a mountain village), later to Al Ula, Madain Salih (second most important Nabatean kingdom with Petra-type structures), Hail, Sakaka, Jubbah (go there if you are into petroglyphs), and finally Jeddah (highest water jet in the world).

Photos are of Rajal Village, Abha; Petra-type structure at Madain Salih; and Petroglyph at Jubbah

It was a wonderful trip around most of the country, everywhere we were met with delicious Arabic coffee and dates for which Saudi is famous. All meals were fresh, tasty, multiple courses, and with a variety of delicious breads (stopped counting calories after Najran!).

The Saudis we met were - without exception – friendly and hospitable and we reluctantly turned down many invitations to visit their homes due to shortage of time.

The highlight of my trip was meeting many different people and being invited into their homes and having the opportunity to ask many questions about their lives and society.

Although we saw many awesome sites, Jameel is the star of Arabia! He has so much local knowledge which he proudly shared without hesitation, with infinite patience and humor, plus he added a color and depth which would have been impossible to get if travelling alone.

In Jeddah, we met Jameel’s family who are wonderful people and I really looking forward to keeping in touch with them.

This was my first trip with Caravan Serai but definitely will not be the last!

Iryna Jones
Jeddah, March 1, 2010

Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

2010-02-28T20:00:00.000-08:00

Below is a comment from one of our frequent travelers about his experience on our tour to Saudi Arabia. Thank you Mark!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good Morning Rita,

This trip to Saudi Arabia was the forth tour I have taken with Caravan - Serai and I just had another quality experience. The hotels and food were top of the line. Hatem Jameel was a very knowledgeable and very witty. He kept me laughing the whole time I was in the Kingdom. Whatever question that was posed to him, he took the time to explain his answer in detail. He looked after all of us so that the tour ran very smoothly until the end. I have a lot of respect for Hatem Jameel and hope to keep in touch with him in the future. It is to your credit that you continue to select the right guides to highlight their countries with tons of information both favorable and sometimes unfavorable giving an accurate account of their country. Hatem Jameel has good contacts all over the country and also at the airports as well. I loved meeting several of his family members and friends in several of the cities we visited. Saudi Arabia is a fascinating country with a lot of the diversity from North to South. I really lucked out with my roommate Oliver. He is very well traveled and we shared many similar viewpoints along the way. It was a pleasure to know him throughout the entire trip. I have included a photo of Hatem and his sister that Hatem wanted me to share with you.

Please keep me in mind for Libya during the last two weeks of February of 2011. Both Oliver and I are very interested.

Thanks Mark

Trip to Yemen

2010-02-09T14:19:00.001-08:00

Here another entry from one of our Yemen 2010 tour participants -Thanks Pam!

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First of all you must conquer fear in order to go to Yemen to truly enjoy the trip. Friends were most concerned about this trip and many asked if my financial affairs were current. Nevertheless, I decided that I really wanted to go to Yemen and would not let negative thoughts dissuade me. I was amply rewarded for this decision. This was probably the best trip I ever took--the country, sights, food were amazing. The people of Yemen were most welcoming.

The tour was excellent giving us time to travel thoughout many regions of Yemen and enjoy the architecture. Frankly the afternnon at Shibam, the Manhattan of the Desert was undoubtedly one of the best, most intriguing places I have ever seen--and I have travelled throughout the world for over 30 years. Shibam was almost mystical especially at sunset.

The food was also a surprise--very fresh: salads, bread (terrific), goat, camel, beef, lamb and chicken (no pork of course). A lot of times for lunch we would stop at places along the highway where the locals eat. Shopping for souvenirs was also fun--that much room to bargain but the silver and other trinkets were well worth getting along with the local honey. After experiencing such dining and shopping experiences, I must say that the US stores and restaurants are boring.

But the real prize in Yemen was its people. Throughout Yemen we were constantly amazed that people were so welcoming and friendly. We had opportunities to talk to women (men and women are segregated and do not socialize together) as well as getting the benefit of a talk by a Yemeni analyst, Abdul Ghani Iryani, used by the western news media. We are not getting half the story in the US as Yemen and the Middle East are much more complicated than what is presented in the news media now.

Did I personally feel in danger. No. But it is advisable if contemplating this trip that you choose a specialist in Middle Eastern travel. Fortunately Rita is extraordinarly well connected and savvy and I would not hesitate in recommending her for any future trip to Yemen or to other Middle Eastern countries. We had police with us at certain points in our travels but they in no way interfered with our enjoyment and provided security for those who needed it. I do not want to mitigate Yemen's very really problems that are well known to anyone who reads the papers but the news media misses the beauty of the country and the resilience of its people.

I do feel that I was personally extremely privileged to be on this trip and met in albeit a very limited fashion the Yemeni people. The people are the tour--seven including me--were all very adaptable to any schedule changes and needless to say quite well travelled. The other best thing about this trip is realizing that I could overcome unreasoning fear and be rewarded with a most fascinating and intriguing destination--Yemen.

Socotra

2010-02-07T22:40:00.000-08:00

Below is an entry written by one of our Yemen tour participants who took a pre-tour excursion to Socotra Island for 4-5 days. Thank you Peter, for writing this!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

A three hour flight over the arid sands of the Rab al-Khali bridged the opulence of the Dubai airport and the third world reality of the Sana’a terminal. Time and patience were required to get the visa and change money, but that done my driver, Ibrahim, was waiting with my bag and off we went to his car, and the 20 minute drive to the Movenpick Hotel. The trip provided an introduction to the outskirts of Sana’a, past miles of small shops and empty spaces. Traffic was light but there was a lot of foot traffic. The men wore head scarves and ankle length skirt-like garb. The women were uniformly heavily veiled in full length black abaya and niqab. I was cautioned not to attempt to take photos of the women, or even to look at them too intensely.

The Movenpick is a nine story grand hotel at the edge of the foothills, with a sweeping view over the city. It has an Arabian nights quality about it, covered in elegant marble with high ceilings and a striking interior atrium. There are several restaurants and cafes, including an excellent Moroccan buffet. The staff are very friendly and helpful, and my room was modern, spacious and very comfortable.

Fully refreshed from a good night’s sleep, I was taken back to the airport by Ibrahim for the morning flight to Socotra. Felix Air flies daily between Sana’a and Socotra, with an intermediate stop in al Mukhallah. Each leg is an hour flight time. The aircraft are Bombardier CRJ200s, sleek, modern twin jets seating 50 passengers. The flight was nearly full. About half got off in Mukhallah, but about as many new passengers boarded there for the flight to the island.

My driver/guide for the next several days was Ismail, a native of the island. He was well spoken, knowledgeable, with a good command of English. It is about a 20 minute drive from the airport to Hadibo, the principal town of Socotra. The road was a well-paved two lane highway. We drove along the coastal plain, past the village of Qatab, up a rise where the mountains come down to the sea, which afforded a sweeping view over the turquoise sea and the mountains beyond.

Qatab is a ‘new’ village, replacing the ancient settlement which was washed into the sea by a massive flood in 1976. It is a Socotran 9/11, a date which defines local history by ‘before and after.’

Hadibo is a poor, physically unattractive collection of mostly single storey humble shops lining mostly unpaved dusty streets. We passed a couple of non-descript looking ‘hotels’, and pulled up to the Summerland Hotel, my home for the next few nights. What a pleasant surprise! A simple, white washed rectangular building with a pleasant lobby and dining room and a simple private courtyard framed by a two storey U-shaped structure containing about 20 units. My room was spotlessly clean, with crisp white sheets and a clean and functional bathroom, which lacked only hot water, which I was informed was a temporary problem. I had satellite TV, with a number of Arabic channels, and one English language station, Press TV, originating in Tehran.
My arrangements included meals, and as I was the only guest in the hotel, their Pilipino chef planned special meals for me, once I had opted for fish, chicken or beef.

After lunch we drove back toward the airport and then turned left onto a dirt track which brought us to the entrance of Wadi Ayhaft. We proceeded up an increasingly narrow, steep and rugged track, flanked on both sides with exotic and varied flora, growing on the steep banks and even out of cracks in the fantastical rocks and crags. We came to a dead end caused by a washed out section of the road. After a brief encounter with two young men who emerged out of nowhere, we turned back, descended and then drove across the plain , across the sand, to the shore. Much of the island is ringed with fine white sand beaches. Other than an occasional stone settlement, there is no sign of development, just miles of clean white sand and spectacular turquoise water.

Back in Hadibo Ismail and I had tea in a local spot, and then drove off to the only Internet facility. It was now dark. There are no street lights, just occasional pools of light from the shops which were still open. It was a bit spooky, but I never felt at all nervous or concerned. The people are generally indifferent, showing neither curiosity nor hostility. I suspect it might be shyness and reserve.
The area around the hotel includes the market section, containing small shops, some with wares spilling out into the dirt street. There is a fair amount of rubbish, and the ubiquitous goats.

The next morning Ismail picked me up at 8. We made a brief foray into the market to get some simple food for the picnic lunch planned for the beach, and then set off for the plateau and the south side of the island. The route up to and across the plateau, then down to the ocean is an excellent two lane paved road. There was hardly any traffic in either direction. The plateau itself is about 1000 meters above sea level and is quite vast. It is very sparsely populated by a few Bedouin families, and it seems quite poor. Although it was quite dry, there were a number of varieties of flowering plants along the way, and quite a few bottle trees. We also began to see some Dragon Blood trees, unique to Socotra. There are sweeping views across the area, with scarcely a sign of habitation. Just an occasional small group of square stone houses and out buildings.

Ismail clearly knew the area well, and we made several detours off the paved road on to dirt tracks, and some stretches that were just rugged terrain. We stopped at one settlement and had tea with the family, which included a total of ten brothers and sisters, from infants to one adult. Women were out of sight, except for an occasional fleeting glimpse. We drove on to the very edge of an enormous gorge, deeply cut into the otherwise rather flat terrain. Some of the small children shyly offered little bags of dried ‘Dragon Blood’ collected from the trees.

We visited a rudimentary nursery where they are attempting to grow new Dragon Blood trees. The only ones currently surviving are older, fully grown plants, which are gradually dying off. The goats devour any new growth, but it is hoped these can be transplanted into the wild and survive.

We crossed the plateau and then descended through another deep gorge onto the south coastal plain. There are few signs of life, just an occasional lone stone house or a small settlement. The landscape is covered with spindly shrubs, grazed over by a scattering of goats. The plain is wide, with long white sand beaches to the south, and towering cliffs to the north, pockmarked with caves and signs of heavy erosion. We passed a modern school building that had just dismissed the students. All girls, all in burqas, looking very much like nuns, and quite a contrast in the dazzling sunlight We turned off the paved road on to a dirt track which ended at the mouth of a large cave, where we parked the car. An old man emerged from nowhere, in search of an aspirin!

There was a sweeping view across the plain to the Indian Ocean beyond, and we decided to forge on to Aomak beach, which consisted of as couple of stone structures and some very basic ‘cabanas’ simple structures of poles and palm fronds, with a tarp-like carpet laid on the ground. Ismail had thoughtfully provided me with a folding chair, to spare my aching knees. He prepared our simple lunch, which consisted of sliced tomatoes, some local Socotran bread, and an orange. And of course, sweet tea.

I walked down to the edge of the beach. The waves were low and gentle, the beach itself was fine white sand, and it gently curved to a distant headland. The water near the shore was the same turquoise of the north coast, changing to a deep, intense blue off shore. Not a soul to be seen.

We retraced our steps, encountering a few camels grazing by the side of the road, then climbing back up to and across the plateau, and making the long descent to the northern coastal plain. The weather has been warm and sunny, except for some cloud cover over the plateau, and we did encounter a brief shower during the return.
Back at sea level we drove across the plain, on another dirt track which led to the shore line. Ismail maneuvered well over the soft dunes and we took a short walk along the edge of the sea. The waves were gentle. The beach itself is one long stretch of pure white sand, occasionally broken by deposits of smooth stones, apparently traces of wadis that brought waters from the seasonal rains down from the mountains to the sea.

We were back before dark and I had a nap, cleaned up, watched some TV and had an early dinner of sautéed chicken and peppers, and then went off to bed.
Day three was sunny and warm, and we headed east on the coastal (and only) road, past the commercial harbor, which consisted of one long dock and some oil storage tanks. Along much of this coast the high mountains come right down to the sea. They are quite striking, mostly of heavily eroded rock, with an occasional towering white sand dune interspersed. Some of these are more than 100 meters high. The road turned inland and brought us into a large valley which was much greener than any other part of the island that we had visited. This valley is ringed by high mountains, some of which are a bit reminiscent of the Dolomites. They reach heights of 5000 feet or more. Eventually the road turned back to the sea through a break in the mountains. We passed a couple of fishing villages, and then the pavement stopped. We continued on, skirting the sea, along a line of cliffs whose shapes became more and more fantastic. The face of the cliffs is heavily eroded, with deep caves and large boulders scattered along the shore. In the midst of it all is one huge sand dune. It is hard to imagine where that amount of sand may have come from, and it adds to the mysterious, other-worldly atmosphere of the area.

We turned off road to meet with three Chelal tribesmen; Ali, Bosalah and Salah. I had read that this tribe is unique to the island in having a gene that produces pale blue eyes. And sure enough, Bosalah had a pair of ice blue eyes. Quite a contrast to his mahogany skin.

The men had caught a young goat, which they slaughtered and skinned before our very eyes, to provide us with a hot lunch! We drove on a bit further to get some fresh water from a stream which was pouring down from the mountains above, a result of what had been heavy rains the day before. This stream blocked our way to drive any further east, so after filling some plastic water canisters we returned to have our lunch.

The goat had been reduced into a simple and well worn aluminum pot, where it bubbled away over an open wood fire. The internal organs had been removed and set aside on a wooden plank, to be grilled. I was the beneficiary of the heart, a kidney, and a nice slice of liver. No, the head was not cooked and the eyes were not on the menu. We sat around the stew pot, and systematically devoured everything. We were closely watched by several Egyptian vultures, which ventured quite close, and to which we tossed spare or inedible parts.

After the meal we had a chat, translated by Ismail. The men were quite curious about the US, and wondered if we too had goats roaming about. Bosalah had been as far as Beirut. He purported to have 10 children, but was interested in acquiring a western wife.

We said our thanks and goodbyes and proceeded back to Hadibo, a roughly two hour drive. Ismail would stop several times during the day to pray, usually in an interesting spot, which gave me an opportunity to stretch my legs and do a little exploring. This time we stopped by a lovely grove of date palms with a small stream meandering through it.

It was still daylight when we got back to town. The internet store was shuttered, but we did find a tiny shop that provided international phone service, so I was able to connect with the outside world. I found that a dear friend had died in New York the day before, so I had to make hasty plans to return as soon as possible. My travel agents responded so quickly and efficiently that I was able to fly out the next morning, and connect to an Egypt Air flight via Cairo to New York the following morning Trusty Ibrahim met me again at the airport in Sana’a, took me back to the Movenpick, and picked me up again at 2 AM for the flight home.

It was unfortunate that I was not able to spend one more day in Socotra to explore the western end of the island. Each part of Socotra is unique, and the western tip is no more that 100 miles from Somalia. The beaches and surrounding waters are supposed to be very beautiful, and I imagine there is a more African influence to be seen.

Socotra is located some 200 miles off the coast of eastern Yemen, and about 100 miles east of Somalia, The population of the island is about 55,000, spread very thinly over an area the size of Rhode Island. There are a lot of young children, and there are said to be over 250,000 goats! The women are completely covered, and almost all the men wear long sleeved shirts, skirt-like, ankle length wraps, and head scarves. In appearance, they tend to be thin, with light to dark brown skin color, and rather aquiline features: long straight noises, thin lips, long faces with close set eyes. Most are quite handsome.

Socotra is a truly amazing and unique place. It is very poor, with a subsistence economy. There is almost no infrastructure or development as we know it. No phone lines, almost no overhead electrical lines, no roadside stands, malls, or gas stations scattered over the landscape. No motor scooters or bicycles. People walk, or get a ride from the few and infrequent cars or vans that pass by. During our drives Ismail would occasionally stop to offer a ride to a lone pedestrian. We even picked up a couple of well-veiled women, who were apparently undaunted by sharing space with a western male. At one point we picked up a young man who Ismail knew. He was a poet, and had won the local prize for poetry the previous year. Ismail was on the Board of Nominators and was proud that he had put this person forward as a contestant.

The main elements of the diet are goat, lamb or fish, and rice. There is little fresh produce, and most of that is imported. I never saw a mosquito, and very few flies.

The people speak Socotri, an ancient (and unwritten) language, which is quite different than Arabic. I was told that there are more schools than teachers. There is one hospital on the entire island, and a few clinics, most of which are not staffed. The future looks bleak. Even with education, there are no sources of jobs or prospects of any meaningful development. One of the main sources of income is the remittances sent back from the several thousand islanders who have gone to work in the UAE.

The history of the island is complex. Earliest historical mentions indicate that remnants of Alexander’s forces settled there in the Third century BC. It was a source of frankincense, myrrh, laudanum and aloe to the ancient world. Dates were also an export crop at certain times. There are indications that the Romans were there. The sultans from the coast of what is now Yemen and Oman controlled the island for most of the intervening years, although the Portuguese had a brief go in the 16th century (whence the blue eyes, by legend.) The Dutch and the British had an interest because of Socotra’s location mid way between India and the Mediterranean.. In the 19th century it became a protectorate of the British Empire, and came part of South Yemen in the 1960s. The Russians maintained a presence there until the early 1990s. They built some schools and clinics, but their attempts to resettle the population did not sit well, and they are not missed. There are recent indications that they have shown interest in setting up a naval base there.

There is concern among people on the island that its designation in 2008 as a World Heritage site will not be a plus for the natives. There is very little tourism, and most of that consisted of environmentalists, who seem more concerned with the plight of the flora than of the people.

Socotra is clearly not for everyone. There is no night life, no discos, no fine dining, no beach resorts and few tourists, most of whom are the backpacking, tenting set. And don’t expect to find any alcohol. But there is a timeless quality to the life there, spectacular mountain scenery and beaches, unique flora, diffident but friendly, simple people, and tons of goats! A truly unique part of the world!

2010-01-16T19:13:00.000-08:00

Photos from Iran - at last!

2010-01-16T18:58:00.000-08:00

At long last I have uploaded photos from our tour to Iran last October. Honestly I thought I had done this a while ago but probably what happened is I started putting the album together but got side tracked before uploading it to the web. Still brings back great memories of our tour there!

Enjoy! Questions and comments welcome!

Brenda

Photos from Iran Tour

2009-11-18T17:04:00.000-08:00

Here are a few photos taken on our way to Yazd, and once we arrive there in the evening. I will have some more and also post a link to my Picasa Web Album so you can see more photos.

A local stopping to check us out as we stop at the 4200 year old cypress tree on the way to Yazd.

Our hotel in Yazd- the Moshir Garden Hotel- a beautiful place! Gardens and fountains everywhere!

Water cisitern near Yazd.

Ice house - this bee hive structure covers a deep pit that, in the winter, would have water added slowly as it froze to make a huge block of ice. It would stay cold enough to provide ice through spring and into early summer.

Alexander's Prison in Yazd.

Saying goodbye to Isfahan

2009-10-30T10:21:00.000-07:00

Here we are on the last full night in Iran. It is time to head back to Tehran to catch out flights home to the US tomorrow night. And I find that I really have learned so much and enjoyed this tour far more than I ever could have imagined. Iran is an amazing country to say the least and the people are friendly and just as interested in us as we are in in them.

A few things happened today to remind me of that. In the main square boys riding in the horse drawn carriages would wave at us and hope we would take their picture. Families visiting the square would watch us pass by then smile and wave or say hello. When we were visiting the river bank to see one of several majestic bridges in the city, two men riding bikes by us suddenly stopped and asked on of the group if he would pose in a photo with them taken with their camera (I got a photo too, so we would have a copy as well!). The woman who is in charge of the computers at the Abassi Hotel learned a new term from another of our group today - she asked for his signature on the interent usage bill and he called it his John Hancock, which required explanation. Now she is trying to use the term with all the Americans she talks to today - please bive me your John Hancock on this bill! Yesterday she said something was "cool", when I was talking to her.

And for all the talk of sanctions, well, just take that collander you might have in your kitchen and try to fill it with water - that is about how effective the sancations are to the average Iranian. Where it is hurting them is in things like no spare airplane parts for their domestic fleet - not a pleasant thought at all! We all have changed money here mostly at the start of the trip, only to find that almost everything can be paid for in dollars and change often given in dollars. ALmost like Lebanon where the conversion and acceptance of the US dollar is prevelant and there is almost no need to exchange money. Maybe a few of the vendors in small out of the way shops might prefer rials, but that's about it.

The food has been very good to excellent. Fish is much more common here than I expected as well as shrimp dishes. Fresh water and farmed fish, as well as seafood from the Gulf are available throughout the country. Of course we often had what became known as "very special chicken kebab" but also mutton and beef dishes were available. My favorite so far is a chicken dish with pomegranite paste and ground walnuts over rice- yum! Lots of stews and grilled meats, rice in a variety of styles, and soups. The best being the barley tomato soup. Safron ice cream is a treat too, and we had that several times for desert. Food was never in short supply on this tour and I know that we all probably ate too much! It will be time to hit the gym when I get home!

Once back home I will have more to write, and go over the tour some more and the sights we have seen. Now its time to go rearrange my luggage and make sure I can fit everything in my bags and get them on the airplane! Oh boy. I still have pistachios to buy- the best pistachios come from Iran- I don't care what the California nut people say with their odd new commercials!

Isfahan, city of poets and engineers

2009-10-29T11:00:00.000-07:00

Here we are in the beautiful city of Isfahan, recently designated as the Islamic Cultural Capital of the World. While it has many amazing works of Islamic architecture and the population is predominanlty Muslim, we visited the Armenian quarter today and the Vank Cathedral. On the way to and from this church, we passed at least 2 synagogues.

The highlight of the day, however, was the Blue Mosque. It is a georgeous mosque with striking blue tile work all throughout. Our local guide, who is also a poet and an engineer, gave a great presentation on the history of the building and a demonstration of the accoustics. Being an engineer he came prepared with a diagram of sound waves and the effect of them bouncing off the dome at various angles - it really was very interesting and informative, and to further demonstrated the sound carrying qualities, he recited a poem. After he was done, a young man applauded him with us then apparently offered to also demonstrate the accoustics of the building by singing- turns out he was a very well known vocalist who also happened to be visiting the mosque. In just a few seconds the small crowd that had gathered to watch and hear our guide's presentation quadrupled in size when the Iranians visitng realized who was now singing! There were probably a hundred cameras all pointed to the center of our circle we had formed. It was really quite a treat and very amazing. Even our guide, who was quite humbled to see this man ( I forget his name now!) was excited to have him participate in the demonstration. I noticed he made a phone call to someone and held the phone out to capture the singer's voice - probably calling a friend and saying "you won't believe who is here at the mosque with us right now!".

I really wish I could download the photos from my camera but I don't have the right cord so the photos will have to wait until I get home. The sights we have seen the last week and a half have been amazing- ancient Persian to more recent sites and sounds. It is hard sometimes to wrap my head around the expanse of Persian history. And many things which we have thought of in the west as Arab, actually came from Persia. I just learned today the Sheherazad and 1001 Nights is originally a Persian tale! Chess and Backgammon - not Arab, but Persian! And there is more.

I really wish that more Americans could see and experience this things we have done on this trip - particularly our elected officials and diplomats. I am glad we have moved away from the previous administration's policy of not talking at all to Iran, but our two countries actually have many shared interests (opium from Afghanistan is a huge problem in Iran, for example) that it would make more sense to be allies rather than enemies. We have much in common, too. And both have much to learn from each other. And as allies it would be much easier to reslove the nuke issues.

OK, more to come later, and I will definitely do a recap once I get home. There is so much going on that I can only sit here for a few minutes and give you a brief picture of what we have done and my impressions for the day. I hope to be able to give a more thorough picture of the tour and our experiences once I am at home with unlimited computer time. Bye for now!

Shiraz is not just a kind of wine!

2009-10-26T07:19:00.001-07:00

Hello from the beautiful city of Shiraz! This is the city of poetry, celebration, gardens, and more. It was once the capitol of the Persian Empire before it was moved to Tehran. We have been seeinf some really amazing sights on this tour. From Kermanshah where I last checked in, We have seen palaces and temples, shrines and mosques. The main highlights of our visit in Ahwaz, a city in the southwest of Iran, are the sites of Susa and Shushtar, and a Temple of Anahita. We also visited another Jewish sight at the Tomb of Daniel, in Susa. The tomb is revered by both Jews and Muslims, who visit it as a pilgrimage sight. On the day of our visit there were many people there as it was a Friday. The women and men enter through separate entrances to view the tomb, pray, wish for blessings from the prophet Daniel, and reflect.

Ahwaz is in the oil center of Iran. We passed by numerous refineries and pipelines and noted that while Iran has no shortage of oil and deisel (which it exports to Iraq) there is a shortage of gasoline for cars. There is a push to get more vehicles converted to CNG or LPG, and in several cities we have encountered congestion due to massive construction projects for new subways and other infrastructure. Gas is rationed based on the type of car you own, so for your ration you would pay only about $.16 per gallon (or maybe its liter, but still it is very cheap!). Once you run out of your ration of gas then you pay market price which is similar to what we pay in the US per gallon.

Speaking of similar to the US, it is really amazing how many similarities there are between Iran and the US, and how little we as Americans know if these things. Speed traps are common on the highways- something I think most Americans can relate too! Also, there isn't universal health care in Iran, but they do have a system to help those who cannot afford their own insurance. Liability insurance is mandatory for all car owners. Unrationed gas costs the same in Iran as it does in the US.

SOme other little known facts we have picked up over the last several days - chess, backgammon, and polo come from Persia. Thursday night is wedding party night. Coincidentaly, Thursday is also funeral day. Thursday is actually treated like Saturday is in the US. People are off of work or only work a very short day, then they spend the rest of the day and Friday with friends and family. Many take the opporunity to get out of the cities and get some fresh air in the country.

Cyrus the Great made the first declaration of human rights law, dictating how prisoners of war were to be treated, how people of other religions were to be treated - which he declared they were to be allowed to practice their religion without hassle. The Jews looked on him as a liberator after he freed them from Nebakenezer (sp?).

There are still many nomads in Iran and they have become an integral part of the economy. So much so that the government provides them with mobile health clinics and teachers. The nomads provide meat and other products from their sheep and goats. We had the opportunity to visit a nomad tent the other day, which was a really great experience. We watched the woman baking bread which she was kind enough to give us a taste of and it was great! The kids were about as fascinated with us as we were with them.

On the whole, we have been really well received and people are always eager to talk to us. Many people speak Englsih extremely well. We had a local guide the last 2 days in Shiraz and her name is Niloufar. She was excellent and gave everyone another opportunity to ask questions about women in Iran and how they are treated and must act. Quite interesting! More on that in another post!

OK, well, I think I need to try and get into my email again. The interent has been somewhat challenging here, but no less than expected. I can log into Blogspot, but sometimes not Yahoo email. I have yet to get into Facebook, no surprise there! Hopefully we will have internet access in Yazd or Isfahan.

More to come!

Darius, Xerxes, Achemedes, and more...

2009-10-21T10:44:00.000-07:00

OK, if I didn't spell them all correctly, my apologies! It has been another full day of sightseeing as we continue our adventure in Iran. Yesterday we departed Tehran for Hamadan, which is a great city nestled up to the Zagros Mountains. We drove through some amazing landscapes, and the mountains here are really high! One pass we went over on the way was over 9,000 ft - just about where people start to feel really dingy from the altitude. Luckly we didn't stay at that elevation for very long and descended into the valley and Hamadan.

Our visits included the tomb of Ester and Mordechai, in a synagogue. Yes, there is a Jewish population as well as a Christian population in Iran. They are allowed to worship freely and in Tehran we passed several churches. While the numbers are small, they are not harrassed and there are places where on one block there might be a church on one corner, a mosque on another and a synagogue on another corner.

Today we learned a little bit about pre-Islamic Persia and the various kingdoms that shaped the empire. From archelogical digs in Hamadan, to viewing bas- reliefs carved into the mountainside and depicting the coronation of the a king with the blessing of the god Ahuramazda, the history of this country before Islam is very complex, rich, and interesting. We will be seeing many more pre-Islamic sites over the next several days, and I can't wait. Persia was a powerful and far-reaching empire at it's peak.

OK, time in the computer is at a premium, and people are waiting so I need to cut this short. To sum up our tour so far, it has been amazing, and we have been welcomed by the people we meet, and also met with as much curiosity about us as we have about the Iranian people, their culture and their country. I hope this will help to dispell some misperceptions people have about Iran. It is a wonderful country to visit and I highly recommend it!

Hopefully I will get some photos up when I have more time, otherwise it will have to wait and I will post them at the end of the trip.

More to come later! If anyone has any questions or comments, you can post them here!

Amazing start to the tour

2009-10-19T09:57:00.000-07:00

OK, back from dinner at the hotel (I am really glad we ate at the hotel tonight rather than a restaurant!) and I am about ready to fall asleep. But first, I have to write about our first day in Tehran. We went to the Golestan Papace and Museum complex. WOW! The artwork and the ornateness are very impressive. The tile and stone work in particular are really amazing. The palace was definitely built to impress. I cannot give any historical information here as my brain is getting ready to go to sleep, but the buildings are not that old by the standards in Iran - only a couple hundred years old!

We had lunch at a night typical restaurant and the food was delicious! Next stop, after driving by the old American embassy, we visited the National Bank and the special vault below that holds the crown jewels and other items from the monarchy. If you have ever seen the crown jewels in London, or the Hope Diamond, or anything like that, it doesn't even come close to what we saw today. The collection is simply amazing to the point of mind boggling when you think of the quantity and value of the pieces in this collection. But all were very beautiful and many were ornated and intricate so you have to appreciate the craftsmanship involved as well as the gems and monetary value. So many pieces, from crowns, daggers, scepters, buttons, sashes, and of course the Peacock Throne and the globe made from diamonds, rubies, emeralds. And it is huge- at least 24 inches in diameter! This is only a small fraction of what is on display, and it is well worth it to make the time to visit the crown jewels.

Tomorrow we leave Tehran for Hamadan, and hopefully I can post again from there. Now it is off to get some sleep for me! Maybe I will have dreams of tiaras with giant rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and pearls!

More later!

Live, from Tehran!

2009-10-18T22:41:00.000-07:00

We made it to Tehran very late last night and after extensive formalities, we left the airport and went to the hotel. Check in went quickly and smoothly and everyone got settled in their rooms for what remained of the night. Everyone on our flight was very tired but also excited to have finally arrived in Tehran.

We are about to go out on our first sightseeing tour in Tehran and will be seeing the Golestan Palace which I have heard is fabulous! I am sure the photos I have seen don't do it justice, and I will report more later today when we get back. I will also try to get photos uploaded once in a while, too.

Ok, since this is the first post there isn't much to report but everyone has been very nice and helpful here at the Laleh Hotel!

More later!

Brenda

New book to add to our Iran reading list

2009-09-30T14:41:00.000-07:00

In preparation for our tour to Iran in October, I came across a book called Persian Mirrors: The Elusive Face of Iran, by Ealine Sciolino of the New York Times. The book is based on her experiences report in and about Iran from right before the revolution in the late 1970's up to 2000 when the book was published. While it doesn't cover the most current events it is a good look at Iran and it's people, a little bit of history and the stories behind the stories. I am enjoying it quite a bit and am glad I found it!

Ramadan Karim!

2009-08-26T16:33:00.000-07:00

This is the holy month of Ramadan for Muslims around the world. It began around August 22 and will end about September 20 (The exact dates of Islamic holidays cannot be determined in advance, due to the nature of the Islamic lunar calendar. Estimates are based on expected visibility of the hilal (waxing crescent moon following a new moon) and may vary according to location). There are many resources available on the meaning and practices during Ramadan, so I won't get into that here- and I am not an expert on the subject so a detailed explanation is best left to those who know so much more about it than me.

As we plan your tours, we will always let you know when major holidays are taking place and what to expect while traveling in the Middle East and North Africa during these times. In many of our destinations, because the populations are predominantly Muslim, there will be public observances of these holidays. Business hours are usually shorter, and sights might also have shortened hours. Keep in mind that in observance of Ramadan, people are fasting all day and it is respectful (if not mandatory in many places) to not publicly consume food or drink. Many western hotels will continue to serve food and beverages throughout the day, but you may not take food outside the hotel. This also goes for carrying around bottles of drinking water. You may have them in the car or bus, but leave them there when you get out to visit a site. In the evening, families gather to break their fast when the sun goes down, so not much will be happening during this time.

The end of Ramadan is marked with the Eid Al Fitr, a feast day to end the month, and a big celebration. We hope if you are traveling during the month of Ramadan (or any other holiday, be it Mulsim, Jewish or Christian), that you will take this opportunity to learn about this important holiday and how it is observed around the Muslim world.

Muslims in the US also observe Ramadan, which can mean that some embassies may have shorter hours and work weeks, so things like processing visas can take a little longer.

Ramadan Karim, wishing everyone a joyous, peaceful Ramadan.

Brenda

Busy Fall Season Coming Up!

2009-08-09T18:08:00.000-07:00

As we approach our busy fall travel season, things are really starting to get busy in the office at Caravan-Serai Tours. We have a tour to Saudi Arabi (space is still available!) in September, a full tour to Iran in October, and an almost full tour to Tunisia in early October, and our ever popular Levantine Adventure Tour (a few spaces still available!) in October, as well.

As always, I will try to get posts from people while they are on the tours to post here so you can keep up with the tours as they are going on. This was really popular last fall, so we will work on keeping that going.

Also, I have started photos albums on our Facebook page - so you can go there and see numerous photos from many of the countries we have tours to, and it will be updated as new photos come in this year.

Enjoy, and as always, thanks for your support!

New Dress Code in Sharjah, UAE

2009-08-09T18:04:00.000-07:00

Just received from our coordinator in the UAE:

"Dear Rita,
　
Please be informed that there is a new 'Dress Code' policy for all Sharjah related excursions.
　
With immediate effect, Male guests have to ensure that they are not wearing any jewellery such as earrings, bracelets, chains, necklaces, rings, etc. when going on any 'Sharjah' related excursions such as 'Sharjah-Ajman City Tour, Sharjah/Ajman Walking Tour, etc.
　
The 'Code of Conduct' from the Sharjah Government requires that the above is implemented and respected in all cases."

So please be advised, if you are traveling to the UAE and Sharjah in particular, keep this dress code in mind.

Thank you!

Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners

2009-07-07T21:15:00.000-07:00

Below is a message we received from our coordinator in Yemen.

Dear Friends,
For some of us it’s been a while since we last wrote. We, at Al Mamoon, hope this email finds you well.

The last facts in Yemen have somehow put a distance through us. Our correspondence has slowed down and, at the end, from both sides we let silence accompany our days. Along with the dreadful news. This email is not a marketing tool and has nothing to do with our business relation. This is just an informative email to tell you that the population in Yemen is not silent. Least, passive.

Last week the Tourism Union joint hands with the Yemeni population, hotel personnel, tourism professionals in an unprecedented rally to say no to terrorism, no to innocent killings, no to violence.

Under a boiling sun, people stood with banners and flyers. Under a boiling sun, people cried their disgust to the last happenings. Under a boiling sun, people humbly moved to the German Embassy to bring flowers and pay respect. Under a boiling sun common people, soldiers, professionals and dignitaries shared their will to protect Yemen and its visitors.

We were there. And we found our friends: the guides, the drivers, colleagues of other tour operators and our next door neighbors.

Yemen hits the headline news only for the tragedies. Last week Reuters, Al Jazeera, Al Arabya and plenty of journalists were with us. Where is the news?

Attached you will find the chronicle of a touching day (Yemen Observer, 30 June). We retyped it for you.

Love and peace to all of you.

Your friends in Yemen,
Yahia, Mona and Beatrice
the Staff of Sam City Hotel
the Staff of Europcar
the Staff of Land of Two Paradise Hotel
the Guides and Drivers

****************************************************

YEMEN OBSERVER
Yemen Observer is the link between reader and news. It is the source of exclusive news, presenting facts objectively in a professional manner.
It provides the most comprehensive and accurate information for the world
Tuesday - June 30, 2009 ISSUE 52

Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners

Demonstration march under the scorching sun to the German Embassy to pay tribute to the families of the murdered foreigners. The tragic kidnapping has united all factions of Yemeni society in solidarity; condemning all acts of terrorism.

By Zaid al-Alaya'a & Mohammed al-Qiri
Yemen Observer
----------------------------------------------------

Hundreds of demonstrators representing Parliaments, travel and tourism agencies, and civil society organization marched today from al-Sab'aeen to the German Embassy to express solidarity with the kidnapped, denouncing kidnapping and terrorism. Demonstrators carried signs that condemn terrorism, killing, and kidnapping of tourists, which harms society as a whole and affects investment, development, and Yemen's image and relations with other countries. The demonstration organized by the Yemeni Union for Travel and Tourism Agencies, issued a statement that expressed deep condolences to the families of the murdered Germans and Korean. Yahya Mohammed Abdullah Saleh, chairman of the union, called on all citizens to help security authorities to put the perpetrators of murder and kidnapping to justice to get the punishment that they deserve.

"Those criminals are not targeting any people or system in particular, but they are targeting the country at large and have support from foreign forces that want to harm Yemen and stop its development," said Yahya.

He said that terrorism has no religion and no country, and that only people with deviant behavior practice terrorism. This rally that we organized today will submit a letter expressing our condolences to the German and South Korean Embassies.

"First of all, I would like to convey the deep condolences of all participants to the victims of terrorism, targeting doctors working in Sa'adah and all other victims of terrorist attacks that target tourists and foreigners working in Yemen," said Yahya. The attacks also resulted in deaths among Yemenis who have done nothing wrong but were present during the terrorist attacks.

"In this parade I call on the government to consider the murdered foreigners in Sa'adah as martyrs of duty in recognition of the great medical services they have provided to the people of Sa'adah in a period of more that 35 years," said Yahya. He also said that rally comes in solidarity with the Yemeni public, the first ones to be harmed by these terrorist attacks. The attacks aim to shake Yemen's economy, security, and stability and bar any investment or tourists from coming to Yemen.

"We are working to develop Yemen but terrorists have an outside, or maybe inside, agenda that wants the country to move backwards. These terrorists do not realize that they are harming the country at large, not just a few in particular," said Yahya. Yemen is not the property of any party or any group. It is for all Yemenis at large and every citizen has to defend it. The first victims of terrorist attacks are the public, development, security, stability but not authorities as terrorists are trying to show.

More than 55% of tourism programs in Yemen were cancelled as a result of recent terrorists' attacks; many other sectors like hotels, handicraft shops, car rental, and many other sectors have suffered great losses as a result of this more than 300,000 families, or around two million people, benefit from tourism and have suffered greatly since the recent terrorists attacks. Terrorists who dare to commit such acts have no morals, no feelings, and only aim to defame the reputation of Yemen. Security and the army can not protect the country's stability alone, but all citizens and all people in Yemen have to stand against any calls for violence. Citizens of Sa'adah have to report to the authorities with any information that can lead to the whereabouts of the kidnapped.

Abdu al-Hothefi, MP Head of the tourism Committee in Parliament, said that these acts do not belong to Yemeni Culture that has always been, and will always be, tolerant and peaceful. The demonstrators walked to the premises of the German Embassy and presented flowers and a statement from the organizers and participants to show their condemnation of the murders and kidnapping, calling upon Yemeni security forces to hunt down the terrorists and kidnappers.
"I call on all people in Yemen at large to stand against all destructive forces in Yemen that aim to distort the image of Yemen, its economy, stability and security. Tourism is one of the main source of revenues for the country and the source of income to a large number of people in Yemen, but such acts deprive a lot of people of their means of living.

We all have to work to protect this industry and take strict measures against all those who try to harm this sector," said al-Hothefi. MP Osman Mujali said, "We denounce this behavior which contradicts Yemen's traditions. This country is known for honoring guests and welcoming all people, but unfortunately this is a terrorist act which is supported by terrorists and damages the country's reputation, security, and economy."

Mo'mar al -Eryani, the General Yemeni Youth condemn this cowardly act that targets not only the foreigners, but all Yemenis and the country in general. The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Abdul-Jabbar Saeed, said that they demand that the authorities track down all criminals and terrorists and refer them immediately to justice to face the penalty for their crimes.
The Children's parliament Member Safa al-Watari, said "There are people who devote themselves to hostility because they are far from principles and are deprived of humanitarian values and ethics. They have used the children as a way to express the malice and hatred hidden inside them, seeking to destroy the children's future." She said that she calls upon the government and all parties to punish those who use children to carry out their subversive agendas for damaging the community's stability.

Beatrice de Filippis of al-Mamoon Intl. Tours said that her heart is broken twice, as a European she stands in solidarity with the Europeans, while her heart also cries for Yemenis because these actions affect the reputation of Yemen in the rest of the world. She went on saying, "I am a European woman working in a humanitarian field, trying to defend the Yemeni people who were described by their prophet as kind hearted people." Miss Fillippis added that those people who committed these actions are not normal people, but people who are against all laws and rules.
Airline representative Fahd al-Ariqi said that the airlines are the sector most affected by these terrorist actions, leading to decrease in airline passenger numbers and trips.

Photos of Israel

2009-05-23T20:39:00.000-07:00

Jerusalem, Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock in the background

Photos courtesy of Mark Schaeffer - Thanks Mark!

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, the Silver Star marking the place of Christ's birth.

Masada

Reflections on a tour of Israel

2009-05-23T16:20:00.000-07:00

When I decided to go to Israel on my own, I wanted to work with a travel agent who was well acquainted with the country and could match me with the right private driver/guide to take me around the country. I found Rita and Caravan-Serai Tours in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.

I contacted Rita and told her the many places that I wanted to see in Israel and that I wanted to have a private guide with me. I needed a guide who intimately knew the area and shortcuts to get me to each of the numerous sights I wanted to visit during my week in Israel. Rita made innumerable suggestions about my proposed itinerary and answered my countless questions about planning my trip. With her vast familiarity with Israel, she was able to arrange my schedule in a way that allowed me to maximize my time in Israel.

After Rita and I finalized my itinerary, I felt confident and assured that I my trip would go smoothly in Israel. I arrived in Israel and met the guide that Rita had arranged for me. As I quickly observed, he was an encyclopedia of knowledge about Israel and very enthusiastic. He was well prepared with my itinerary, knowing exactly what I wanted to see and how to get me from place to place. He was the perfect fit for me.

We started my first day in Israel at the famed Dead Sea. No trip to Israel would be complete without the obligatory dip and float in the Dead Sea. Due to its very high saline content, you truly float - without any effort - in this Sea.

On my second day, we drove a short distance from the Dead Sea to fabled Masada - the mountain fortress overlooking the Dead Sea. We took a glorious cable car ride up to Masada and toured the ruins. My guide was wonderful at explaining the history of Masada.
From Masada, we drove to the nearby Qumran caves. The Dead Sea scrolls were discovered among the 13 caves. The view of the caves is quite stunning. The surrounding Judean desert has so many fascinating shapes and curves.

We then drove towards Jerusalem and I visited Bethlehem. Regardless of your religion, it is hard not to appreciate the passion and religious fervor as you observe the worshipers at the Church of the Nativity and the Silver Star inside that marks the birthplace of Jesus Christ. The faithful kiss the Star and bring items to be blessed by touching the Star. I then walked through Manger Square and around the corner to the Milk Grotto - where a drop of milk supposedly fell from Mary while she was nursing the baby Jesus - which turned the Grotto white.

From Bethlehem, we drove approximately 10 minutes into Jerusalem and began the first of three sightseeing days in Jerusalem.

I stayed at the landmark King David Hotel in Jerusalem. My room had a magnificent view of the walled old city of Jerusalem and the Tower of David. The King David has been the resting spot of many a dignitary and celebrity. There is even a walking hall of fame of sorts in the lobby. Queen Elizabeth is one of the few who have signed their name on the floor. The walls are filled with photographs of some of the famous who have stayed there. The King David is well-located, it’s a lovely and short walk to the heart of Jerusalem.

Of course, Jerusalem is a very important sight to three of the world’s important monotheistic religions. The Dome of the Rock is considered the third most highly sight in Islam - from where Muhammed ascended to heaven one night. Its glittering gold dome can be seen from far away and is one of the most photographed sights in Jerusalem. The Dome of the Chain with its fine tile work stands right next to the Dome of the Rock, as does the nearby Al Aqsa mosque. For Christians, walking the 14 stations of the cross along the Via Dolorosa to the sight of Jesus’ crucifixion and Jesus’ tomb inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a religious experience. Of course, the Western Wall is the holiest of sights in Judaism. It is the only standing remnant of the Second Temple. I saw all of these places.

My guide even surprised me by taking me to the Western Wall on Thursday morning, when bar mitzvahs take place there. That was quite a spectacle. There were about 50 or so separate bar mitzvah ceremonies simultaneously occurring side by side. Seeing the ceremonial dress and the torah reading and the passion of the people was quite moving.

An early visit morning to the Mount of Olives area is essential. From there, you can see the sun shining on the old part of Jerusalem. The panoramic view of the entire walled city is gorgeous and makes for good photographs too. In the Mount of Olives, I saw the Mosque of the Ascension, where Jesus’ footprint is still visible. I saw the golden onion-shaped spires of the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, visited the Dominus Flevit church, toured the Garden of Gethsemane, viewed the very large Jewish Cemetery, and paid tribute to Mary at her tomb.

Inside the walled old city of Jerusalem, we stopped at the Mount Zion area to see King David’s tomb, which is draped in a purple cloth. I also walked in the room of the Last Supper, with its gorgeous vaulting arches. No trip to Mount Zion would be complete without a visit to Oskar Schindler’s tomb, which is still covered with pebbles and small rocks from Steven Spielberg’s film.

While I had heard and read much of the "division" of the old part of Jerusalem into the Arab, Jewish, Christian, and Armenian quarters, I thoroughly enjoyed walking in all the quarters. From looking for unusual buys in the Arab souqs to watching traditionally-dressed Orthodox Jews, the entire area was in a word - fascinating.

Outside of the walled old city, I also visited Yad Vashem, a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. I also saw some of the Dead Sea scrolls and one of the jars in which some scrolls were discovered, on display at the Book of the Shrine at the Israel Museum. The Book of the Shrine is white and shaped in the form of the lid of the jar. I toured the Knesset, which is the home to the Israeli parliament; watched the Israel Supreme Court hear a case in its impressive building in which all the light comes from the outside; and saw Marc Chagall’s 12 glorious stained-glass windows at the Hadassah center and hospital.

From Jerusalem, I went to Tel Aviv for two days. The contrast from the old and traditional in Jerusalem to the new and hip in Tel Aviv was striking. Tel Aviv is lined along the Mediterranean Sea and the beach helps define the city. Jaffa is in the southern part of Tel Aviv and is a walking tribute to the past. It hold much history and is a fun place to walk through its narrow pedestrian-only walkways. Jaffa is slightly elevated and provides lovely views of Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean Sea.

From Tel Aviv, I took easy day trips to Caesarea, Akko, and Haifa. I toured the beach aqueduct and the ruins in Caesarea. The hippodrome there is a must. The ancient city of Akko was a photographer’s dream - it is filled with old structures, arches, and all sorts of interesting shapes that enhance photographs. Haifa is Israel’s third largest city. A visit to the Bahai Gardens and the Bab of the Shrine is a must. The Gardens escalate along a hill and are immaculate. I thoroughly enjoyed my walking tour of the Gardens from the top of the hill down the terraced gardens until I reached the beautiful domed Bab of the Shrine.

My week in Israel was everything that I had hoped for and more. My guide brought history to life for me and ensured that I saw everything that I wanted to see. He knew the best times of the day to visit and photograph the many sights that I saw. For this, I sincerely thank Rita and her wonderful crew at Caravan-Serai.

I look forward to future trips made possible by Rita and Caravan-Serai.

(Note: This entry was written for us by Mark Schaeffer, a client who has recently returned from his tour of Israel. Thank you Mark for your post!)

New Egypt Specials and Programs!

2009-05-21T21:25:00.000-07:00

New Egypt tours are posted on our website! The most exciting are the Dahabiyya Cruises. These ships are smaller than the cruise ships in our other programs (although those aren't really that big either when compared to a Carribean cruise ship!), and the itineraries are 8 days rather than 4. They are a slower, more relaxing way to see the sights up and down the Nile from Aswan to Luxor.

I just love the thought of cruising on a ship called the Om Kalthoum, or Agatha Christie. These ships are great for large families, groups and organization. Free time in the itineraries allow for meetings if you with and organization, or just to relax on the decks with a good book while the banks of the Nile glide by. Several itineraries include lunches on islands in the Nile, as well as all sightseeing with English and French speaking guides.

Check our Egypt page on our website for prices and more information.

2009-03-11T15:18:00.000-07:00

Do you have a tip or resource, or even a funny story from your trip to the Middle East? Let us know. Comments are now an option on all posts from here on out. And since this is new, the first subject is open to what ever you would like to let readers know. As we go along and more entries are posted, there will be more subjects to comment on.

Please keep in mind that this is a travel log and not a political forum. We all have our opinions on politics, and some of us have very strong opinions (yours truly, included!), but this is not the place for that. Please keep comments focused on traveling in, and discovering the Middle East and North Africa.

Thank you and I look forward to your comments!

Call for entries

2009-03-11T14:01:00.000-07:00

This is a call for any past Caravan-Serai travelers to send in their experiences while on one of our tours. Also, if you are about to depart on one of our tours and would like to share your experiences in almost real time, email me from time to time while you are traveling with your thoughts and I will get them posted here. Also, any photos you would like to share, send those as well and I will get them posted. I am also going to change the set up of this blog to allow you to comment directly from here so we can have more of a conversation about traveling in the Middle East. Ask questions, give tips and observations, or just share a story about your travels.

Our goal at Caravan-Serai Tours is to provide educational travel experiences which in turn will help promote better understanding between Americans and the Middle East.

Thank you!!

Spring tour roundup

2009-02-15T19:58:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Caravan-Serai Tours 2009 travel season! Very soon we will have our Levantine Adventure Tour departing and it is sold out! We are very excited to see that interest in traveling to the Middle East and North Africa is still strong, and getting stronger all the time. In addition to our set departures, Tunisia is a very popular destination. I will be trying to get postings from some of our travelers headed there in the next couple of months.

There is still room on our tours to Jordan and Syria, and Iran this spring. We are also starting to see more registrations for our fall trips- Jordan-Israel, Levantine, and Iran.

In the next couple days I will be sending out our next country profile to our mailing list. This time we will be taking a look at Lebanon. I was there this last October and I loved it. This tiny country on the eastern shores of the Mediterranean Sea is so diverse, not only in its landscape, but also in the people who liver there. To learn more about Lebanon, visit our website and click on the link to join our mailing list. I will send the profile out in a few days, then again in about a week or so to anyone who signed up on the mailing list after it was first sent.

That's it for right now. Stay tuned for updates on our tours as they depart!

Brenda

Happy Holidays!

2008-12-11T19:54:00.000-08:00

This is just a short note to wish everyone Happy Holidays and a peaceful and prosperous New Year! Thank you to all of our wonderful clients who have made 2008 a very special year, and we look forward to 2009 with great anticipation!

More blog entries will be coming after the holidays, so be sure to check back. I am hoping to get stories from our first tour of 2009: Yemen. There is still room on this tour if you would like to join it - just call our office.

Anyway, from us to you, all the best for the holidays and new year!

Rita, Brenda, Maha

Yeah, more updates from our Saudi tour participants!

2008-11-19T17:58:00.000-08:00

One more addition to our posts about the Saudi Arabia tour. The link below takes you to one of the particpant's websites she created about the tour. Enjoy!

Saudi Arabia http://web.me.com/donamalan/Saudi_Arabia

More thoughts from Saudi Arabia...

2008-11-19T15:01:00.000-08:00

I can’t tell you how much I enjoyed the trip to Saudi Arabia. All of my friends wondered why I was going to go there, thinking that it was mostly desert with a lot of people who didn’t much like Americans. Boy, were they wrong.

What I saw was fascinating. From the mountains in the south to the tombs in Madinah-Saleh to the fabulous sites in the north to amazing Jeddah on the coast – it was all beyond what I expected to see myself. The people were gracious and friendly, and hospitality reigned all over. We met so many wonderful people, and we had a superb guide during our journey throughout the whole country. I was surprised to learn that we didn’t have to wear our scarves over our heads in many places, which was really nice. The abayas were positively comfortable and easy to wear. I learned a lot about Saudi life on the trip, and I was pleased to see everywhere I went that Saudi men were loving and affectionate with their daughters, unlike what I had read in a couple of books intimating that Saudi men only wanted and cared about their sons and not their daughters. That was great to see. We also visited a couple of homes, which gave an insight into family life and how guests are received in Saudi Arabia.

I was struck by the sense of dignity the Saudis have. They look exquisite in their traditional costume, and they are quiet and reserved in public. I noticed this especially at the airports and the restaurants. Nobody talking loudly or making a ruckus. When I got back to the United States and was waiting for my transfer flight, I was appalled by not only the appearance of our American men (in jeans and T-shirts looking like slobs), but by the loud casual and inane chatter that I didn’t particularly care to hear, along with people talking loud on their cell phones. I wanted to leave and return to Jeddah! It was so nice to see people acting like they should act in public as I saw in Saudi Arabia.

I was also impressed when prayer time came in the evening and all of our drivers (of the 4 wheel drives in the desert) and the security police prayed together in the sand. We had a newspaper reporter with us also, and he did the call to prayer first, and the others came up behind him and all prayed together. The reporter had the most beautiful voice, and as the sun was going down, his melodious voice sounded through the desert. It was a moving experience, and I’m glad to have been a part of it.

In addition, the chilled non-alcoholic beers were excellent!

I would recommend this trip highly to anyone who is interested in Arab culture and all of the historical gems that Saudi Arabia has to offer. The accommodations were excellent, and Hatem (our guide) was kind, considerate, and super efficient. He also had a terrific sense of humor, which brought out the best (or worst) in us. We just loved him.

Thank you for making it possible for us to see this magnificent country. It was one of the best trips I have ever taken.

June Simeth (Milwaukee, Wisconsin)

Saudi Tour Reflections

2008-11-19T08:52:00.000-08:00

This post was sent in from Dona, one of our Saudi Arabia tour participants, upon her return home. It's really entertaining!
-Brenda
***********************************************************************

Saudi Saga

Once upon a time in November ‘08
Our group met in Riyadh but Jean was late.
We enjoyed our flight on Saudi Air
Each with their own row is how they show they care.

The arrival in Riyadh was really easy and fast
After long flights, we had arrived at last
We spent some time learning about our group which is small
So it is easy to get all in the loop

Rita was with us the very first day
But had to cut short her Saudi stay
Here we met with our guide Hatem
He seemed knowledgeable, funny and a gem.

Jean’s trip from St. Louis really started wrong
To get to Riyadh she almost had to sing a song
But Finally after dinner she did arrive
At breakfast we met her and she is quite alive.

In Riyadh we visited Masmak Fort
The history here we must try to sort
Very thick walls are on all sides
And much history within it resides.

We visited a bit in a souk to shop
Joshua was the one who made the jewelers hop
June got herself a falcon perch
And a falcon hood and she didn’t even have to search.

The Riyadh Museum is full of many things
From it great knowledge it brings
Now if we can just remember it all
For our memory banks an order quite tall.

The Tower offered up quite a view
We were glad we got there too
But traffic in Riyadh is very bad
Not knowing the rules of the road made us sad.

During our delicious lunch a big rain
When we came out we found water that could not drain
Flash floods, lightning and thunder for us
We had to hurry and get on the bus.

We visited a camel market so sweet?
Later we had to lean off our feet
Our flight to Najran was delayed
But finally we arrived at the Holiday Inn where we stayed.

Friday we flew and drove all day
Had to get to Al Ula for a three night stay
Saturday when we awoke we found an amazing sight
About these rocky mountains much we could write.

The Nabatean ruins are more than great
Our cameras clicked at a real fast rate
For everyone a day to remember
Way past our stay here in this November.

We drove up the mountain and built a fire
Had a bit of tea to keep us wired
We watched the sun drop over the hill
And the Saudi prayer time while we keep still.

Sunday more ruins and a museum quite small
More food and soon we will all be round as a ball
The food has always been more than ample
And of course all if it we had to sample.

Monday was a long day on the bus
With stops and food no one did fuss
As the rocky and sandy terrain we past
While June wrote a chapter at last.

Tuesday was spent on archeology sights
Castles, standing stones and Umar mosque a delight.
Al Noal hotel was a beautiful place
Courtyards and lobbies full of grace

A private museum with coffee and tea
And happily a five star place to pee
then on to a home where the ladies could dance
We had fun watching Linda and others prance.

Four med students joined us for a camel dinner
The conversations were surely a winner
Exchange of views both sides did bring
While dell phones went off with a varying ring.

Wednesday we visited a plant and camel research center
Even a camel pharmacy we did enter
We saw a camel being milked by machine
Some tried camel milk without turning green.

We fed some camels alfalfa and hay
But finally we had to end our stay
We saw some desert with very fine sand
This is not unusual in this Saudi land

Thursday in Hail we saw a few sights
Then off to Jubba without any fight
There a private museum most grand
Then on to the rock carvings where we could stand.

Back in Hail we all went our own way
Our VIP guards were afraid we would stray
McDonalds or Bar-B-Que chicken to eat
The hotel food here took lots of heat.

Till Hail our food has been quite a treat
Seems like all we do is eat
Pita, hummus, veggies, fruits and dessert
We have eaten enough to make our stretched tummies hurt

In Hail we tried to dodge our secret police
They probably thought we were covered in grease
But someone was always following us
Even if we were not on the bus.

Friday a flight to Jeddah - hurray
Hatem could hardly wait for this day
The Intercontinental Hotel is more than swell
Quite a change from the one ins Hail ( hell)

The buffet lunch put us over the top
Eating it we were not sure we could stop
You name it and it was here
We ate with abandon and showed no fear

Afternoon visit at Hatems family home
Men were separated and could not roam
His mom, sisters and nieces were lots of fun
I am sure our hearts they have won.

Then to the souk in the old town
It was hot and crowded as we walked down
Stalls with clothes, perfumes and dates
With this group shopping usually rates.

Off to our farewell dinner tonight
Later Jean leaves us early for her flight
Don’t know what will happen now
But this poem will be complete somehow.

Thanks for everyone this trip has been great
All were on interested and no one was late
Varied discussions have taken place
Many a smile has filled out face.

Friday, thanks for joining us
You have added much to the bus
Hope we have not been too big a shock
And memories os us you will not have to black.

Hatem -- about you what can I say?
You have really made our Saudi stay
You have shared about people and places
And were always met by smiling faces

You are very knowledgeable and fun
And you have really kept us on the run
History, stores, quizzes and jokes
And lots of stories of the Saudi folks

Rita and Caravan Serai you have done it once more
Planning these trips is more than a chore.
Sights, experiences, hotels and food
We have gained from the Saudi hospitality mood.

(This is what I had written for the dinner!)

Saturday morning we drove along the corniche by the Red Sea
Lots of round-a-bouts with statues for us to see
We met Salena and saw her lovely gallery
Her wedding photo albums are far from free.

Off to Green Island for lovely fish
I got a grilled plate which met my wish
Friday said goodbye after lunch
He will be a good guide soon is my hunch

Our last museum in Saturday
Had to complete it for our Jeddah stay
Sunday were off to the airport for our flight
Not wearing an abaya will not seem right.

Bless you all my children from Mother Teresa

Sights and Sounds of Jordan, Syria, & Lebanon

2008-11-10T21:53:00.000-08:00

Below is a post from one of the participants from our Oct. 15-28 Jordan and Syria Tour. Enjoy!
Brenda
***************************************************************************

Hi Everyone,

It's hard to believe that I'm back in my comfy home after a long journey of 14 days, flying 12 and half hours across from Amman, Jordan and another 5 hours from New York to San Francisco; it was another time capsule of another world!!!The destination: Syria and Jordan..definitely the Middle East , Wonder of Wonders, the Cradle of Civilization and ten thousand years of civilization with twenty diverse cultural eras.

Before going any further, I would like to make a disclaimer that my historical knowledge and dates may not be accurate and my story are only my interpretations. My observations of the sights and sounds are my delight in the world of discovery.

JORDAN helped me complete my list of must sees, as National Geographic did mention that PETRA in Jordan as one World Wonders. No one can really appreciate the grandeur of this site, unless you are physically there. I soon realized that PETRA "Rose Red City" was more than the famed building of the Treasury, but a whole city behind, carved out of sandstone with a Roman amphitheater and spectacular Church to boot.

Little did anyone realize that on this trip, we would be treated to seven UNESCO Sites. FYI: (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Sites.It was founded to help preserve specific landmarks and natural sites and to draw public awareness to them.

Our group had the pleasure of spending an afternoon at DANA RESERVE (UNESCO site) where we were challenged to go hiking for several hours on very rocky mountain surfaces. Our Jordanian guide gave us the hope that we would find wildlife romping about, but the only rompers, were our exuberant tour members who could have been on a photography assignment as they romped precariously from rock to rock formations to get their pictures.

Little did we expect was to be really doing hard camping at another UNESCO site, WADI RUN. It is the vast desert land with jutting landscapes and more expected wildlife. I really expected to see Lawrence of Arabia reenacted on these vast plains; our group had the pleasure of sitting on the back of open air trucks riding & bumping through the fine sand. Needless to say, our wind tousled sandy hair demanded another shampoo.But not tonight..our camp was a two man Pakistani made canvas tent with two cots and bedding. No more, no less; oh yes, a bright burning lantern outside. Honeymooners would have almost loved this, but it was too challenging to find everything in the dark, much less the bathroom which was in a separate building, many tents away. Now try going to go the bathroom in the middle of the night when you only have a small Sharper Image light to guide the way. However, one lesson learned, the Jordanians cook their dinners like the Hawaiians do a kaula pig for a Luau. Their marinated meats, namely lamb and chicken, are put into huge cauldron submerged in the ground, covered with hot wood coals and cooked a whole afternoon. The end result was a culinary delight.

To compensate for the dire conditions for us "non campers" who are more like princesses, we were rewarded with a glorious stay at the Kempinski Hotel at the Dead Sea, which I have rated as 6 star!!! What awaited us was the chance to play and float in the Dead Sea, 400 meters below sea level, and to slather ourselves with the" cure all, make you beautiful mud." Yes, we all did succumb to bringing our senior bods to test the waters and found it to be truly salty and very buoyant. With the promise of improving all skin tones to rejuvenation, we naively managed to spread this very licorice looking color mud, with the consistency of molasses, on our bodies from head to toe and that meant covering our faces. Before long, we could not recognize anyone, except by body size.

A ride through the Jordanian desert , totally void of any greenery or water on a straight road with an endless horizon, brought us to visit QASR AMRA, (UNESCO) which means "Construction". Once a 8th century Palace, complete with baths and unique Christian frescoes, we were able to find the remains of a beautiful and glorious structure. This palace, in its hey day, was once occupied in a lush valley of trees and water. Again, it was a "Kodak moment" for us or should I say a "digital" moment.

AL MUIJIB, also known as APAMEA (UNESCO),13th century, Roman city,was one of my favorites; it was a "sleeper", There are boulevards of impressive restored columns and my heart just felt my heartstrings tug. It was so spectacular!!! Imagine, avenues of bold impressive columns, " Colonnade Avenue, "where it seemed like miles of tall, majestic columns, with or without it's Corinthian curly cue tops. While strolling through the avenues, we had a well fed stray dog follow our group for a few blocks and he reminded me of my morning walk with my Sheltie dog, Monty. What is impressive is the distance that large stones had to be carried up the hill and be erected to form the columns. At the southern gate, known as the Homs gate, there exists twisted fluted columns, 2nd century AD, which was happily recorded digitally by me.

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF JORDAN
*Each morning, at 5 am, I am awakened by the Morning call to Prayer with a lingering chant.
*The city of Amman, consists of seven hills, dotted with very concrete,boxy looking, homes everywhere. It looks like Lego land and there seems to be a lack of color, like no one paints their homes with any color, very neutral sandy
*There hasn't been any rain in the area since April 2007, very arid
*Hard to believe, there is a Sam's Club and Safeway.
*All rooftops have an unfinished look: pillars with exposed metal.This is done in anticipation of adding another floor to the building for a family member to move in
*As we leave the city of Amman, the outskirts are hilly and dotted with rows of olive tree farms and pistachio farms
*One does not forget you're in the 21st century as there is plastic everywhere: plastic bags of every color are scattered all over the countryside, as there are water bottles.
* Phosphorus is the country's biggest natural product and loaded onto trains to be transported to different areas of the country. While at Wadi Run, our morning call was the rumbling sounds of a train, transporting phosphorus
* Camels are likely to cross a highway or be lumbering around the countryside on it's own. Most of these camels are white and are smaller built as compared to their counterparts.
* One of my favorite little towns was Madaba, the city of mosaics where it was discovered a Byzantine mosaic map showing Jerusalem and other holy sites from Biblical times
* Jerash, a forgotten Roman ruin was also another visit that called for more digital moments.

Not reading my itinerary too carefully, I found out that we were going to be in LEBANON for one day. That was one of the most historic days in my life, for I have found another site that I have fallen in love with. This has to be another UNESCO site, if not a World Wonder: please let me introduce to you BAALBECK.

It is a fabulous Roman city ruins which could surpass Petra.Our visit to the Temple of Jupiter where amazingly ,much was in tact. However the piece of resistance was the Temple dedicated to Bacchus, the god of grapes and wine. Those Romans were party timers from the get go...as we were able to witness a Wine Hall that was extremely well planned and perfect for having little groupies of a 1000 for drinks and nibbles. ( ah, hummus again) Because of the recent excavation of this project, we were able to see all the many finer carved details and appreciate the grandeur. One historic note, most of the rocks and stones were monster boulder size and were secured with imbedded metal rods and moved by animals and hundreds of slaves. Each boulder had been carved up to eight steps and would be placed at each building. Water systems were "no problem" ..hot or cold, the Romans had it figured out. Their water pipes have held up for centuries!!!

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF LEBANON:
*Did you know that they make wonderful wines,they have their own Napa Valley, Chateau Ksara has garnered the title of best little ole winemaker with multi awards; they used the old caves of the Romans who stored their wines there in the early days
*the architecture of their homes are nicer and more imaginative
* There are imported cars of every vintage and every make
*Kids all wear uniforms to school
*We are again reminded of the world of plastics, where plastic bags of every color are strewn all
over the countryside giving a confetti look
* Did I mention that you can purchase anything with your American dollar;?
* Taste of Lebanese food:similar to their other Middle Eastern neighbors:
Hummus, fattoch, baba,muharahma, kibbeh, cheese rolls, sabosa, lamb, chicken kabobs, and fresh fruits of the season. Persimmons were abundant and very sweet

Crossing the borders from Jordan to Syria and vise versa was serious business; strictly no picture taking and very serious border guards from both sides checked and double checked our passports to make sure that we weren't on their undesirable list. Fortunately, our tour leader, Rita Zawaideh American Jordanian, kept everything light with her great sense of humor.

Upon arriving into SYRIA, it was like going into another world. They have water and their whole world is a lot greener. It boasts of the two major cities, Damascus,the capitol and Aleppo, former capitol. Their must see showcase is Palmyra.(UNESCO) Believe me, I had never heard of this ancient city and was truly delighted to know that we would be exploring another Roman ruin. As it was dusk, our group managed to drive up to the top of a hill where there was another castle awaiting our tired feet and begging us to explore. and to see the sunset. I chose neither. I was in "shoppers paradise". All the Syrian or Bedouin vendors were hawking their gorgeous table covers & silver necklaces. Bargain, bargain and when you pay in Syrian dollars, you're not sure if you paid too little or too much. But what a adrenalin experience.

Our morning walk in Palmyra was amongst the ruins and columns and camels;it was also another adrenalin rush, because the vendors from the night before chased us on motorcycles, yes motorcycles, trying to make a sale.We went from site to site and the motorcycles and vendors were right under our noses. We were in our element. Oh, yes.

Afew other must sees and also UNESCO site materials were in the major cities Damascus and Aleppo. Not to forget, the Citadel in Aleppo,the Street Called Straight in Damascus, the Omaryyad Mosque, also in Damascus.

We were beginning to feel "ruined ' out" but still manage to drag our tired bodies to see the other plums. The city of Bosra was nice and neat and their claim to fame is the largest Roman amphitheater. And who would have thought that the Syrians would have named a castle in French; Krak Des Chevalier.(UNESCO) It's a complicated story, but a remarkably well preserved Crusader castle.

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF SYRIA
* I'm still awaken by the 5 am Morning call to Prayer with a lingering chant
* The traditional women of different sects all have their version of a black dress, called a burka or kaffeiyehs. If you go into the souk, (market place) you'll see every conceivable black dress with many embellishments of trims and flowers. The best one was when I saw a lady in her black burka and it was trimmed with the Burberry plaid. Now how stylish can you be??
* The souks, a local market since time, is the Whole Foods of the Middle East; you will find the most fascinating and complete store in the world. I was more intriqued with all the fancy women's lingerie that rivaled Fredericks of Hollywood. I certainly didn't see the women wearing them, so I suspect there is a lot going on that doesn't meet the eye under those black burkas.
* The souks gave us Americans of having a chance to interact with the merchants; when one of the merchants found out we were from America, he expressed his choice of our presidential candidate. We want" Obama, we want Obama" I had to hold my tongue.
* In the downtown area of Damascus, in the morning,the shop keepers all wash and mop their floors and even the frontage of their side walks. Shades of Japan and Korea.
* If you want a little morning exercise, try walking in downtown Damascus and try crossing the street. You have to play the game of chicken when you cross between a million yellow cabs and dodge quickly all the other oncoming cars. Great for your mind and agility
* If I haven't mentioned it before, our bathroom stops were quite challenging. Question??? Is it a Western?? No, it's a HOLY ONE!!!
* Did I mention that we traveled in a Chinese made bus ?? Yutong
* Many gorgeous pashmina scarves found in all the stores are from the Far East and even have the same familiar labels
* Upon entering the Holy Mosques, we women were required to rent a robe that covered us from head to toe and had to have our heads covered during our visit. Shoes were not permitted. It made us feel so "local".

From our Christian background, it was exciting to be visiting the many places that Jesus Christ had been to or to relive a happening from our Biblical stories. Our stop to the Baptismal site of Jesus in the Jordan River, gave way to our getting our selves wet with the same water. The visit to the Church of Annais, Basilica of St Simeon ruins and the tiny villages of Ma'alaula and Sednaya, where it is the only place in the world that speaks Aramaic, the language of Jesus Christ. We heard a priest say the Lord's Prayer in Aramaic.

My head is still reeling from all this saturation of history, architecture, culture, religion, people, foods etc and feel so blessed to be able to do another Trip of a Lifetime. Now I can check off my list of Wonders of the World and add more UNESCO sites that I've seen.

AH, now for a good nights sleep....perhaps, I'll be awaken by the early morning Call to Prayer.

MURIEL KAO

Wondering what to wear on a trip to Iran?

2008-11-10T11:06:00.000-08:00

Many people, especially women, are concerned about what is appropriate to wear on a tour of Iran. Below is a photo from our tour in September showing what is appropriate. You can see that there is a variety of choices!

The idea is to keep your clothing loose - no tight or form fitting garments. Skirts that are ankle length and tunics that go to just below the elbow and below your hips are fine - you don't have to have the manteau or long coat. A scarf is alwas required to cover your hair.

I hope this helps when considering what to bring on a tour of Iran!

Brenda

Photo Album for Levantine Adventure Tour

2008-10-27T13:24:00.000-07:00

Visit my photo album for the Levantine Adventure Tour! Click the link below.

Photo Album

enjoy!

Brenda

Home at last

2008-10-27T12:16:00.000-07:00

Wow, what an action-packed last 2 and a half weeks! I am at home now, reflecting on my trip to Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon, and what a trip it was. Where else can you see ancient wonders such as Petra, natural wonders like Jeitta Grotto in Lebanon, cosmopolitan cities like Beirut and small villages and Bedouins still living the nomadic life?

I learned about insurance for camels- what happens if a camel runs out on the road and is hit by a car or bus? This a very real problem, and camels are very valuable to their owners- one figure I heard was about $1500 US dollars per animal. Obviously something you don't want to lose. But the camel herds, and the goat and sheep herds, too, often cross highways or graze alongside the roads. So what happens if one gets hit? Well, auto insurance includes provisions to compensate the animal's owner for their loss, as well as for fixing the car and taking care of other costs. I am sure Geico has never been asked - do you cover camel accidents?

I also got to see some places I had been before and noted the many changes that have taken place. One change in Jordan is the notable increase in visitors. Sites are more and more popular as word gets out that these sights really are amazing. Other changes were not so monumental, such as noting that the cafe I used to spend lots of time at in Aleppo when I was there 12 years ago, has been upgraded with new chairs, tables, and umbrellas, and the street it sits on is now blocked off to car traffic - that was half the appeal to the place before- watching the cars zoom around the base of the citadel! Oh well, time marches on, as the sculpture of Father Time reminds us at the Jeitta Grotto caves, and things will change either in large chunks or small drips.

My next project will be to upload a web album of the photos I took throughout the whole trip.

Aleppo, Syria

2008-10-23T21:23:00.000-07:00

Aleppo's Ommayad Mosque after a brief rainstorm.

The only day it rained during our entire trip was our day in and around Aleppo on October 15. We got lucky, though. Our day started at the Citadel of Aleppo, then the Museum afterwards. As we were leaving the museum for St. Simeon, it started to rain. We had decided to stop and get some "pizzas" for lunch to take on the way and eat while we were at St. Simeon. It rained all the way there and and while we ate our lunch in the bus, but as soon as we were done, the rain stopped! We were able to visit the site where St. Simeon the Stylite, a Christian ascetic, settled in 412. He lived for nearly 40 years on the top of a column, surrounded by pilgrims. The surrounding basilica and baptistry are on a hill top overlooking the surrounding countryside and you can see Turkey to the north. As soon as our visit was over and we were heading back to Aleppo in the bus, the rain started again!

Once back in Aleppo we went to visit the Ommayad Mosque and the souk with its miles and miles of covered passageways, located at the foot of the citadel. The souk is ancient, having been in use for centuries because of Aleppo's important location on the trade routes between east and west. You can spend days and days exploring all of the souk, and you can buy everything from kitchen utensils, fabrics, clothing, gold, souvenirs, soap, spices, nuts, sweets, and more. It is an asault on your senses, but in a good way- the odors of the spices and the sounds of the merchants moving more goods to their shops on the backs of donkeys, colors of all types of fabrics. The souk is a world of its own. Once inside, you leave the city behind, and it is very easy to get lost. I don't know if the is a map of the layout of the souk, but I doubt it would do any good. But half the fun and adventure of visiting the souk is to emerse yourself if this age-old insitution of trade and commerce, and forget about what might be going on outside.

Brenda

Beirut - the Paris of the Middle East

2008-10-19T09:00:00.000-07:00

I have done some previous studying of the vibrant city of Beirut and it is really quite inspiring to be here at last. One thing I hadn't really realized about the city and the country of Lebanon is that there really isn't much flat land, except in the Bekka valley. The rest, almost right up to the Mediterranean Sea is mountains! Beirut is located on a natural peninsula that is relatively flat compared to the surrounding landscape. It really is beautiful here, with the warm sea breeze and the zest for life is evident everywhere.

Beirut and Lebanon have gone through so much in its history - I won't even attempt to summarize here as it would be pages and pages long even in summary! - but every time seems to snap back, rise from the ashes, and becomes even better than before. OK, some propaganda there, but for the most part it is true. While not everyone is happy about some of the reconstruction plans, or the handling of archeological sites newly discovered in the city, or the price of real estate in the downtown area, for the most part with little exception you would not know there was a war in this city as recently as 2 years ago.

There are a couple of reminders, or souveniers as our guide liked to say, of the recent war but also of the civil war in the 80s and 90s. For example, a theater that was opened just days before fighting broke out in the civil war is in ruins, but part is still standing and will some day be repaired/rebuilt and used for different purpose. There is also the shell of a Holiday Inn hotel that is a remnant from the civil war - also to be repaired someday and used again. They are reminders to what has happened while at the same time providing a stark contrast as to what has become of the city since then: new construction, pedestrian streets, a beautiful coriche to stroll on, and more have been built - the city is as modern as any western metropolis. Mercedes and BMWs and other luxury cars zoom long the streets next to Hondas and the new Chinese car - Cherry.

Today we visited Harissa to the north of Beirut to see the giant statue of the Virgin Mary and see the modern cathedral as well as enjoy the view of the city of Jounieh below, the coastline and Beirut in the distance. Our next stop was the Jeita grotto- which is a candidate for the new 7 Natural Wonders of the World. These underground caverns are spectacular - stalactites and stalagmites and the undrground river rushing through the rocks below- amazing! This place is not to be missed, it truly is a natural wonder. It is hard to imagine how long it has taken these rock formations to develop into their current state - and they are still growing and changing. There is a sculpture of Father Time outside the caves.

After the Grotto, we went to the south of Beirut to visit the palace at Beitedine. this is a 19th century palace and is still a governemt facility. The architecture is really beautiful once you get inside- don't be fooled by the somewhat plain exterior and main square. However, before our visit there we stopped for lunch at a little restaurant not far a way from the palace and we were in for a treat! The woman that owns the retaurant was warned ahead of time we were coming so she was waiting at the door and as soon as she saw our bus she ran out waving and greeting us with so much enthusiasm it was really cute. She was running around like crazy to make sure we had places to sit, took our orders, suggested I have the special Amina pizza- her specialty, and the green tea rather than regular tea - OK. Good choices/recommendations on both counts. It was really one of the most fun lunches we have had -relaxing, entertaining, and good food. Al Amina Restaurant is a good place to stop when visiting Beitedine.

Our day was completed with a walking tour of downtown Beirut. We could see some of the new construction as well as the uncovered Roman ruins. The city was alive with families enjoying the late afternoon at the cafes and strolling through the streets, and also there were a few weddings going on. We ended at the Green Line, that separated West Beirut from East Beirut during the civil war and is now a park commemorating the martyrs of the cicl war. Also, a commemoration of Rafiq Hariri's death and the still unsolved mystery of his assisination was nearby.

Ok, I think I have rambled on long enough. Maybe tomorrow I will sit down and write a more coherant summary of the trip so far.

brenda

Lebanon at last

2008-10-18T10:50:00.000-07:00

After continuing our journey through Syria we are finally in Lebanon. I am sorry I have not been able to write since arriving in Syria - we have seen and done so much since my last post! Palmyra was incredible, and of course Aleppo is my favorite.

Aleppo is Syria's second largest city and in the very northern part of the country. I must admit, I wish we could have stayed longer. In any case, I did run into someone I had met when I was in Aleppo 12 years ago - Aladine who runs several kiosks in the famous covered souk of Aleppo - it is his family's business. Anyway, he is quite a crazy character and does a brisk business! I chatted with him for a bit before continuing on with my own exploration of the souk, which brought back a few memories. And a few things have changed in the city, and elsewhere in Syria since my last visit.

We are now in Beirut and enjoying the sites. I am about to get cut off on my computer time so I wil lhave to finish this later! Sorry for the brevity! Back as soon as I can!

Brenda