Day 9: Stuffed Peppers, Tomatoes & Eggplant

Ingredients:
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter

For the Shells:
6 small black skinned eggplants (about 12 cm long and 4 cm in diameter)
6 medium green bell peppers
6 large firm tomatoes
salt
ground black pepper
For the Stuffing:
4 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter
1 1/2 pounds (700 g) ground beef or lamb
2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium green pepper (pointed or bell), finely chopped
chopped tomato pulp* (see the recipe)
1 cup chopped fresh basil
½ cup cooked and split chickpeas (1/4 cup dried, boiled in slightly salted water and drained), optional
salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Prepare the shells.
Eggplants: There are two ways to prepare the eggplant shells. Choose one you like better.
Method 1: This is the easier method and takes less time than the second. Cut off the stalk end of the eggplants. Make a lengthways slit in each taking care not to cut right through. Fill a pan with water and bring to a boil. Gently drop the eggplants into the boiling water, and simmer for about 2 minutes, using a slotted spoon to keep them submerged. Remove and set aside. When cool enough to handle, remove the seeds from the eggplants with a spoon or by rubbing the eggplants gently between the palms of your hands to let the seeds fall out. Set aside.

Method 2: My favorite method, although requires more time and effort to prepare. Here instead of blanching the eggplants fry them before stuffing. Using a vegetable peeler or knife, remove about 3-4 lengthwise strips of skin from the eggplant to create a striped effect. Make a lengthways slit in each eggplant taking care not to cut too deep through. Soak the eggplants in a large bowl full of cold water with 2 tablespoons salt for 20 minutes to remove any bitterness. Drain, and gently pat dry. Fry the eggplants in 4 tablespoons oil or butter (add more if necessary) on all sides for about 10 minutes, or until evenly brown. Remove, drain on a paper-towel lined plate.

2. Make the stuffing. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the ground meat and cook until the released liquid has evaporated and the meat has nicely browned. Add the onions and cook for 5-10 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chopped pepper and tomato pulp and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from heat. Add the fresh herbs, and if using, cooked and split chickpeas. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.

3. Sprinkle inside of the shells with some salt and black pepper and fill them with the stuffing. Cover the top of the peppers and tomatoes with their lids. Place the vegetables side by side in a deep frying pan. Pour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter over the top. Cover and simmer over low to medium heat for about 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender (but not mushy!) and the liquid has reduced to the syrupy consistency.

Be sure to check out AZ Cookbook blog (where I found this recipe) for more Azeri dishes.

Day 5: Gutab - Azeri meat stuffed flatbread

Here is a popular Azeri dish that we sampled several times, with both a meat filling and a spinach filling, during our visit to Azerbaijan. This recipe came from the AZ Cookbook blog and you can see photos of the process there.  These can be an appetizer or light lunch or dinner. 

Meat Stuffed Flatbreads (Et Gutabi) 

Makes 12 (serves about 6)

For the Dough:

4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups water, at room temperature

For the Filling:

1 pound ground beef or lamb, or a combination
2 medium onions, peeled and passed through a meat grinder (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon sour fruit paste (you can obtain it from sour fruit leather - soften it with water) or ½ cup fresh pomegranate arils (you can adjust these amounts to taste)
Salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste

Filling Variation

In the northwest, particularly in the region of Balaken, a pinch of dill seeds (they add a FANTASTIC new dimension to the filling), some crushed garlic and sometimes chopped fresh cilantro is added to the filling too. Sometimes, sour paste slightly diluted with water is spread in a thin layer on a cooked buttered gutab for a piquant tart taste.

Also needed:
Unsalted butter stick, to brush (if using method 1 to cook)
Vegetable oil, to fry (only using method 2 to cook!)
Powdered sumac, to garnish

Prepare the dough: Sift the flour into a large bowl. Add the salt and stir to mix. Make a well in the center. Gradually adding the water, stir with your hand, until a rough ball forms. Sprinkle a large working surface (you can use large round wooden board) with some flour. Scrape the dough the floured surface. Knead the dough until smooth and not tight, adding more flour if it sticks to your hands, about 10 minutes. Do not be tempted to add too much flour, or the dough will be tight and difficult to roll out. You will add more flour to the dough while rolling it. Divide into 12 equal parts and shape each part into a ball. Work with one ball at a time, keeping the rest covered with a kitchen cloth.

Prepare the filling: In a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients for the filling and mix well. If using pomegranate arils instead of sour paste, mix the mixture gently so as not to smash the arils. (You can also sprinkle the pomegranate arils over the meat filling before sealing the bread in a half moon.)

Roll out the dough: Transfer one ball onto a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle the dough with some flour. Slightly pat on top with your hand to flatten then begin rolling with a thin rolling pin, rotating the dough with each rolling, until it is about 5 inches in diameter. Now, sprinkle the circle with some flour and spread it evenly with to cover the entire surface of the circle (this will prevent the dough from sticking to the rolling pin and tearing and will also make it easier to roll). Begin wrapping the circle around the rolling pin at a slight angle from you. Wrap till the very end, then turn the dough so that the rolling pin is parallel to you, and unwrap the dough swiftly. Continue in this manner, sprinkling the dough before each wrapping and thinning process. Continue rolling until you obtain a thin 10-inch circle.

Fill the dough: Spreading half of the dough circle with a thin but dense layer of the meat stuffing. Then cook, following either of the methods below:

Method 1: Cook on a preheated saj or a griddle, or  a non-stick frying pan, first one one side, until slightly brown blisters appear, then turn to cook the other side. Remove from the pan and transfer onto a plate. Brush the top with butter while still hot. Continue cooking the flatbreads in the same manner, stacking the cooked gutabs on top of each other and brushing their tops only. Sprinkle with sumac and serve immediately.

Method 2: Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a non-stick frying pan, large enough to hold one or two gutabs. Cook the gutab until light golden, turning once to cook on both sides. Add more oil to the pan if needed for each new batch. Transfer the cooked gutabs onto paper towels to drain (do not brush with butter in this method). Sprinkle with powdered sumac and serve immediately.

Caspian Saga

This was written by one of our tour participants on the Caucasus Tour Oct 27 - Nov 9, 2012. We had a great time, excellent food, amazing sites, and wonderful people. Thanks for sharing this fun poem, Dona!

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In October of 2012 our group set out
To discover what the Caucasus were all about
We started out in Azerbaijan on the Caspian Sea
In Baku an amazing great city to see

Baku is really a mix of the old and the new
With lots of buildings for us to view
Old Town is really a delight
And the designer shops were quite the sight

In Baku we saw old paintings on rock
We saw the Caspian Sea without a dock
We watched the flames on the buildings tall
Saw the fireworks  over the water fall

We dined outside in places without sound
In private places with greenery around
We tried all the new foods with great delight
Some of the dishes were quite a sight.

The fresh bread was way too good
Causing us to eat more than we really should
The appetizers were really a full meal
But we did not stop there which was a bad deal

We visited markets with produce and meat
It was so fresh but didn’t want animal feet
The spices and nuts and honey to sell
At least the people here can eat well

Our guide, Yasim, in Azerbaijan was  pleasing
We laughed and joked and he took our teasing
But at the border we had to leave him
Our view of him will not soon grow dim

Then  we met up with Tamara  our guide
In Georgia she has lots of pride
She knows  so much and she tried to share it
But into some of our minds - it surely does not fit

The first night in Georgia  at a guest house we did stay
They were delightful to introduce us to their way
Our hosts there showered us with food and toasts galore
Our time there  showed us what was in store

We visited  old houses and museums along the way
Keeping up was hard so we did not stray
There are walls and museums of all kinds of things
Fashions, statues  and even some rings

We ate our way around the city
If our stomachs were only larger- what a pity
Our group is getting to know one another
And only in the churches our heads we did cover

Tbilisi is a very interesting city
Too bad it is poor which is a pity
But they have only been a country for 20 years
They are so proud of their freedom with no Russian fears

Lastly to Armenia we finally went
Now Laura was the guide that heaven sent
Seems the whole country is full of heritage sites
Monasteries and churches with no lights

We saw frescoes in  churches and monastaries
We saw walls that must have been  built  by fairies
We saw carvings most everywhere
And statues at which we often did  stare

We  drove on curvy roads that were bumpy
Seeing small towns and buildings that were frumpy
We stayed in a place way too small
About all  there was to do is look at wall

A lake was seen along the way
Lunch was from many a full tray
Then 290 steps to see the view
It was done by the real tough few

We have all eaten way too much food
But it seems to keep us in a good mood
The tomatoes and cukes were devine
The many breads were really fine

We had great fruit and lots of cheese
Eggplant dishes went in the breeze
Trying new foods is really fun
We ate until we were finally done

Lunch in a cave was a real hit
The lavash was bigger by quite a bit
The Grand Candy store was too much fun
Some of us will hit it again on the run

Yerevan is full of churches and museums
Laura set out to have us all see um
There is just way too much to learn and see
Not possible  in a short time where to be.

Our last day together was great
The Pagan temple had nothing we could hate
The singers there were a great surprise
For them they really had our ears and eyes

The museum of history was out last stop
It helped us to learn a lot
This journey  has been quite an experience
At times it took lots of endurance!

Now this group is an amazing  bunch
We talked constantly over lunch
All  have traveled to many places
Bringing us new dimension to our faces

Stacey is the one to go to for hats
Sloan is the one who seems to likes dogs and cats
These east coast sisters seem like a team
Having wine together for them is a dream

Terry is the lone male on the trip
His sense of humor is  often quite hip
Brenda  and her mom Bobbi are lots of fun
Taking lots of pictures and collecting junk until they are done

Nora is busy learning lots of stuff
With roots to this area she never has enough
Kelly is busy smiling and never sad
Dressing up for dinner trying to making us all look bad

Linda has to put up with me on this trip
I do what I can to keep her hip
I spent my time looking for chocolate and ice cream
In Tbilisi  & Yerevan I really found my dream

Thanks to everyone for making many days with great trips
I am sure  forever it will be on everyones lips
May our paths cross again real soon
Traveling is for us the real tune!

Dosvedanya, Azerbaijan!

After just a few days, I know that Azerbaijan is a land of many contrasts. It has a long and varied history, has been part of the Persian empire and the Soviet Union with remnants of both still evident as well as many other invaders in between. The Azeri language is a Turkic language but Russian is widely understood.

The Russians and Soviets have left their  mark on this tiny Caucasus country. They invaded and stole or destroyed precious works of art, destroyed culturally significant buildings, and pushed religion out of public life. But without this influence, Azerbaijan would not be what it is today and could easily have gone down the same path as Iran in the late 1970's.

You can see the Persian influence in the architecture of the historical palaces and other monuments as well as in the people themselves. We visited the Sheki Khan Palace today and it is very similar to the palaces we saw in Iran. From the exterior craftsmanship to the interior decoration, they are very similar. We saw the same use of the lion as a representation of the king as we did in Iran.

We saw the bustling modern city of Baku which was host to an international car race, is crammed with new construction but has the old heart of the city where you can wander the cobbled streets and see the old walls that used to encompass the city and protect it from invaders.

The natural history of the area is very interesting too. The museum at Gobustan has a really instructive museum with displays about the evolution that has taken place over the millennia. The sea level has risen and fallen numerous times providing plenty of sandstone and limestone for modern construction and providing the mechanism to filter water naturally for the city of Baku. There are no other fresh water sources except the ground water that filters through the rock.

This has also left Azerbaijan with an oil resource that is now helping to modernize the country. The former president Haydar Ilyev is credited with signing the Contract of the Century with The big oil companies to really develop the oil industry.

In the 19th century there was an oil industry that was very unregulated leading to the rise in power of the oil barons. When the Bolsheviks came in the early 1900's, they took everything from these oil barons including their businesses, their homes, everything. Our guide says many of them died - of a heart attack over losing everything. So the oil industry was nationalized but everything went to Moscow. When Azerbaijan became independent that maintained the nationalized oil industry but now the money is used to the benefit of Azerbaijan.

We have now entered Georgia, and my first impression is that the people are very much like the Lebanese in that they have endured so much through occupation and oppression, civil war, and revolution, yet they have an incredible zest for life. They have not let the conflicts and threats from inside or outside the country dampen their spirit. They also reside next to countries that sent like each other (Armenia and Azerbaijan), but they get along with both.

So more on Georgia tomorrow! I will also try to get some photos in here too.

Brenda

Where does the tour go?

We have had some requests for maps of our tour routes recently, so I am trying to create route maps in Google Maps. I just finished the map for our Caucasus tour this fall, and will post the link to the others as I complete them. Please excuse the roughness- I am still figuring it out. :)

Map of Caucasus Tour Route

Enjoy!

The Caucasus: Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

October 27 - November 9, 2012

$3875 pp/do, land only

Oct 27: Welcome to Azerbaijan! Upon our arrival at Baku airport, we will be met and assisted, then transfer to our hotel for overnight at the Park Inn Hotel at the heart of the City.

Oct 28: After breakfast we will depart for full day tour of Baku including lunch at the open-air restaurant Chanag Gala. Baku, Azerbaijan's capitol city has a cosmopolitan air about it with oil wealth used to create a unique blend of Soviet and Islamic architecture. Oil has been a part of Baku for many centuries but the city did not become an oil "boom town" until the late 1800's. Tour includes visit of open-air museum Gobustan (rock paintings), Old City with Shirvan Shah Palace and Maiden Tower, visit of local Teza Bazaar and walking tour of pedestrian zone. Dinner at Bah Bah Restaurant, famous for its delightful cuisine prepared on the basis of old Azerbaijan culinary recipes. Transfer to the hotel after dinner. (B/D) 

Oct 29: After breakfast we will depart Baku for the mountain town of Sheki via Shemakha, the royal seat of the Shirvan Shahs from the 9th century to the 18th century. Lunch and sightseeing en-route (see Diri Baba, Yeddi Gumbaz in Shemakha). Continue to Sheki. Upon arrival in Sheki, check in at 5* Sheki Saray Hotel. Overnight. (B/D) 

Oct 30: After breakfast we will check out and depart for a half-day tour of Sheki including visit of magnificent Khan's Palace, Panorama point, shabaka shop, sweet shop, and the local bazaar. Depart Sheki for the Georgian / Azerbaijan border (Lagodekhi) via Zakatali where we will stop for lunch. Zakatali is located at the confluence of several rivers that come down from the Caucasus Mountains to the north. Meet at the border with our Georgian partner and exchange bus / guide. Welcome to Georgia! After we get our Georgian bus and guide we will drive to Telavi. Overnight in guesthouses. (B/D) 

Oct 31: After breakfast we depart for Tbilisi with stops on the way. We will visit the town of Tsinandali and a noble family house/museum of the 19th century with a beautiful park. In Signaghi we will see the 16-17th century town, renovated, so called town of love, all surrounded by the wall. We will have a chance to wander around and to explore the city. There are nice cute restaurants there as well and we will have time for independent lunch there. Continue on to Tbilisi for dinner and overnight at the Holiday Inn or similar. (B/D)

Nov 1: After breakfast we will have a city tour of Tblisi which will include the State Museum of Georgia, which has a vast collection of icons and metalwork, and also include a walk along Sharden Street and the new Peace Bridge. Afterwards we will drive to Mtskheta, the ancient spiritual capital of Georgia. Visits will include Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (11th century) and Jvari Church (7th century). Return to Tbilisi for dinner and overnight. (B/D) 

Nov 2: After breakfast we will depart for David Gareji, one of Georgia's most important and remarkable ancient religious sites. The area contains several monasteries carved out of the limestone rock, and built in the 6th century by the Davit, one of the 13 Syrian fathers. The area had fallen into neglect and was even used by the Soviets for military exercises, but the 19 known monasteries in the area are now being restored. We will have a picnic lunch along the way. Return to Tbilisi for overnight. (B/D) 

Nov 3: Check out after breakfast and drive to the Armenian border. Upon arrival at the border crossing of Bagratashen, proceed through usual immigration and customs formalities and we will change to our Armenian bus. Welcome to Armenia! Drive to the Haghpat Monastery, perched on the edge of the Debed Canyon. The monastery has UNESCO World Heritage status and the view alone with worth the visit. Built by Queen Khosrvanuch in 976, it is a splendid architectural monument in a spectacular natural setting. Also visit another UNESCO site - the Sanahin Monastery. Overnight in Alaverdi. (B/L)

Nov 4: Check out from the hotel and continue your Armenia trip from Alaverdi, Vanadzor to Dilijan (visit Haghartsin and Goshavank Monasteries in Dilijan -magnificent and beautiful ecclesiastic monuments which are the highlight of the medieval Armenian architecture. Continue to Lake Sevan. Visit the peninsula and enjoy your lunch here - fresh fish from sweet waters of the lake! Spend some time exploring the wild nature and sunshine as well as visit 9th c AD Sevan Monastery. Head to the hotel and check in for overnight in spa town Tsakhkadzor. (B/L/D) 

Nov 5: Check out after breakfast at the hotel. We depart for and Noravank (UNESCO World Heritage Site) and Khor Virap via the famous Selima Pass - one of the main junctions on the Great Silk Route. We will stop to visit the caravanserai recorded as best preserved of its kind, the gather place for travelers along the Silk Road where they could re-supply, exchange news and information, and rest from their long journey. We will have a picnic lunch near the monastery of Noravank, known for its architecture and dramatic setting. Continue on to Yerevan with an optional visit to a local winery en-route to the capital. Arrive in Yerevan; check in at the hotel. Free evening and overnight at the hotel. (B/L) 

Nov 6: Today we will have a full day of sightseeing around Yerevan, Armenia's capital. Yerevan is a diverse city with a very intense cultural life. There are dozens of theaters, museums, concert halls, galleries, and live music clubs. People are relaxed and go at relaxed pace. The city itself has a history dating back to 782 BC, and its past is as diverse as the present. Visit Matenadaran, the repository of ancient Armenian manuscripts (UNESCO World Heritage Sight). Lunch will be at a local restaurant, then continue your tour to Etchmiatsin, the Vatican of the Holy Armenian Apostolic Church, and Surb Hripsimeh Martyria Church. Free evening for independent activities and optional dinner. (B/L) 

Nov 7: After breakfast depart for a full day tour to Ashtarak to visit the Saghmosavank (1215) and Ohannavank (1216-1221) Monasteries as well as the Byurakan/Amberd Fortress (weather permitting). Both monasteries perch on the edge of the precipitous gorge of the Kasakh river. The book repository of Saghmosavank, built in 1255 under Prince Kurd Vachutyan is among Armenia's buildings rare in their purpose and original in their composition. Amberd Fortress is on the slopes of Mt. Aragats at 2300 meters above sea level. It was built during the 11th to 13th centuries. (B/L)

Nov 8: This morning we will visit Garni Temple, the only survivor witness of Hellenistic period in the history of the country. Dedicated to the goddess of Sun Mihr (Mythra) it dates back to the first century, AD. We then continue our excursion and visit Geghard Monastery (UNESCO Heritage Sight), named after the lance that pierced Christ's side at the crucifixion. The spear was once housed there but now resides at Etchmiatsin. Lunch will be hosted by a local family in Garni. Return to Yerevan and visit one of the most fascinating museums - the History Museum. Return to hotel for brief rest before farewell dinner. (B/L/D) 

Nov 9: Group transfer to the airport for final departure (breakfast is served from 7:00 AM). (B)
End of services.

Armenia - Post by a recent tour participant

This was sent in by Julius W. who went on our April tour to the Caucasus, including Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia. Thank you Julius for sharing!

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A small group of 10 of us recently returned from Caravan Serai’s tour through the Caucasus- Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia.  What an incredible time!  Caravan Serai organized a very fascinating and educational tour through the former Soviet Union.  It was amazing to tour many of the scenic places in the region and learn about these countries on a historical, political, religious, and cultural level.

One of the many highlights included visiting the Mother of Armenia monument at Victory Park in Yerevan, Armenia.  It was erected in 1967 to replace a statue of Joseph Stalin and is made entirely of copper.  This pride of Armenia symbolizes peace through strength and stands tall with a sword and shield, overlooking the city.  Our group picture is taken here, with a view of the capital in the background (one tourist is not pictured).

 Our next stop was a visit to the Tsitsernakaberd Armenian Genocide memorial, which was completed in 1965.  This visit was exceptional because the national day of remembrance for the holocaust happened during our time there.  Thousands rallied at the site during the holiday.

 Armenians continued to visit the site throughout the week.  The site was beautiful decorated, notably with a tall building and a circular monument next to it.  An eternal flame was installed at the very center of the circular monument, in remembrance of the 1.5 million victims who died in the Armenian genocide.  As we got closer, our senses were overcome by the strong floral aroma from the circular wall of flowers. 

  

Many visited and paid their respects with prayers and pictures.  Many parents lifted their children to lay flowers and see the eternal flame.  I tip-toed just high enough to take a picture of the flame.  This was both tragic and beautiful but an important part of learning about Armenia’s history.

Caravan Serai’s unique combination of tour experience, knowledgeable tour guides, and well-designed itineraries really came together to produce a great tour.  I’d recommend this tour for anyone who has a thirst for culture, history, and good food!

Caucasus Tour Map!

If you are interested in the places we will be visiting on our tour to Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, check out this map. I have tagged the locations with corresponding itinerary descriptions. Enjoy!

Caucasus Tour Map

For more details on the tour including pricing and inclusions go here: Caucasus Tour Info