Monday, March 28, 2011

American Group Welcomed in Cairo

Today I spoke to Maha from our office who is with our group in Cairo. She told me a bit about their impressions of their first few days in Egypt and the meetings they have had so far with our Egypt experts. In every place they have visited so far, the Egyptians have been welcoming and happy to see Americans visiting. They feel safe, and if you didn't know (ie: if you had been living under a rock for the past couple months!) about the revolution, you wouldn't be able to tell just by being out on the streets of Cairo. Businesses, shops, cafes, restaurants are all open as usual, and any signs of the thousands upon thousands of people that had taken to the streets and Tahrir Square are almost gone.

Maha told me that in spite of the usual heavy traffic in Cairo, the tourist sites are almost empty. They saw a few groups of tourists from Germany, the Netherlands, and France in Old Cairo, but at the Pyramids at Giza, our group was the only foreign group there. Usually there are rows and rows of tour busses parked in the parking lot, but when our group went, theirs was the only one. They said there were a few locals there, but other than that, they had the place almost completely to themselves. At Memphis and Saqqara, it was also very quiet.

The hotels are equally quiet, so this means that those hotels with several restaurants probably don't have them all open, but the bars and cafeterias are open. The vendors are really eager to make a sale, and can be a bit overwhelming, but we have to keep in mind that while tourists enjoy less crowds, the crowds were what had been providing incomes to so many Egyptians. Now they have no one to sell their goods or services to, so they are really hurting.

Recently, a referendum was passed to allow elections to be held in about 6 months. I asked if campaigning was evident, and Maha said no. You would hardly know that elections were coming if you are a visitor.

The group has a guide with them, a representative from our office in Seattle and one from the office in Cairo, as well as security. There is a curfew from midnight to 6am in place, but it does not affect the group's schedule at all.

In the morning they will fly to Luxor, and visit the West Bank sites and the temples of Luxor and Karnak - both places usually swarming with visitors, but I expect they will find these sites also quieter than usual. This is really a great opportunity to see these sites without the throngs of people that can descend upon them. It will not stay this way forever as more and more people decide to visit Egypt, as word gets out that it is safe and things are getting back to normal.

We have another group departing for Egypt on April 10th, arriving on the 11th, that will also see the same sites and have meetings with Egypt experts in Cairo. Join us! Space is booking up quickly!

http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/NewEygptApr2011.htm

Monday, March 21, 2011

Tunisia - Where it all began

This time last year I was visiting Tunisia with a small group of Americans, enjoying the Mediterranean and then the desert climate, the wonderful people, delicious food, and magnficent sites of this small North African country. This year we will visit to learn about the changes taking place and the recent revolution that brought down their president after 23 years of rule.

Travel to Tunisia next month with Caravan-Serai Tours to see where it all began. In mid-December 2010, the grumblings of frustration and discontent over un-employment, human rights, and police and ruling-family brutality exploded into full fledged revolution. The desparate act - a public suicide - of one man set the wheels in motion to bring down Zine El Abidine Ben Ali, Tunisia's president for the last 23 years. Protests grew and grew, with more people coming to the cities to join in the call for the end of the Ben Ali regime. On January 14, they got their wish as Ben Ali fled to Saudi Arabia. Now the people are in the process of rebuilding their government and preparing for elections as they begin a new era of democracy in the Middle East.

Our tour will focus on the most recent history of the country as well as it's ancient roots. Visit Tunis, El Jem, Kairouan, Kasserine, Tozeur, Chebika and Tamerza, Metlaloui, El Kef, Dougga, Sbeitla, and more. To see the entire itinerary click this link: http://www.caravan-serai.com/tours/NewTunisiaApr2011.htm

April 14 - 23, 2010, $1650 per person, double occupancy, land only.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Be the first to see the new Egypt March 26 – April 5, 2011

As the protesters in Egypt finish cleaning up the streets they are now turning their attention to making the necessary changes in their government, and a large part of that task will be to get the economy repaired and growing again. Tourism is a huge part of the Egyptian economy and it is important for the country to begin welcoming visitors back as soon as possible.
Caravan-Serai Tours is offering a tour of Egypt at the end of March to visit the historic places of the Egyptian Youth Revolution, and will include meetings with our contacts in Cairo, sightseeing in and around Cairo and Alexandria, and a Nile Cruise. This tour will be a great opportunity to see the monuments and sites of Egypt without the throngs of people usually present. Also, hear first hand from people who were present during the many days of protests at Tahrir Square.

This tour will be escorted by our own Maha Sarhan. A native of Egypt, she has lived in the US since the early 1990's. Maha leads groups to Egypt, Jordan, Libya, and Israel and she has traveled throughout Europe. She is fluent in French, in addition to Arabic and English. Before joining Caravan-Serai Tours, Maha worked with KLM Airlines for 5 years.

We are getting a group rate on Egypt Air from New York, so please call for details.

NEW EGYPT
March 26 – April 5, 2011
11 Days/ 10 Nights

Price per person:
Sharing Double: $975.00
Single: $1505
Air ticket: JFK/Cairo/Aswan Luxor/Cairo/JFK: $1220

Lecturers:


Amal Winter is an Egyptian-American psychologist in Seattle who currently lives in Cairo, Egypt during the academic year where she is Visiting Professor of Practice at the American University in Cairo’s Graduate School of Education. She is a member of Psychologists for Social Responsibility, the Arab American Community Coalition in Seattle, and the Arab American Institute’s Pacific Northwest representative. Her numerous consulting positions include the U.S. Department of State where she trains women in the Middle East to run for public office and the creation of training programs for panels of mediation specialists in over 450 Egyptian family courts.

Jere L. Bacharach is Professor Emeritus, Department of History, University of Washington, Seattle, WA. Born in New York in 1938, Bacharach attended Trinity College, CN, Harvard University, and the University of Michigan. He has been a member of the U.W. faculty since 1967 having officially retired in 2004 although he taught his last class in the fall term, 2007. While a member of the University of Washington faculty, Bacharach served as Chair, Department of History; Director, Henry M. Jackson School of International Studies; and Interim Chair, Department of Near Eastern Languages and Civilization. He has also been President, Middle East Studies Association of North America, President, Middle East Medievalists, and President, Association for Professional Schools of International Affairs. He has served in Cairo as Interim Director, American Research Center in Egypt and has held numerous other positions in various professional organizations.

His publications have ranged from the architecture of power in the Islamic world to the use of African slaves in military Muslim armies. His primary work has been in the field of Islamic numismatics where he has published numerous articles on fifteenth century Circassian monetary developments and tenth century Ikhshidid coinage. The latter appeared as “Islamic History through Coins”, which was the co-winner of the 2007 Samir Shamma Prize of the Royal Numismatic Society of Great Britain for the best book in Islamic numismatics during the preceding two years. Bacharach has twice been a Samir Shamma Fellow at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford and at St. Cross College, Oxford University and in 2008 received a Mellon Foundation Emeritus Fellowship.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Ancient sites in Saudi Arabia

Here is an update from our Saudi Arabia tour participant, Dr. Kiracofe. Thanks for sharing!

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Today I visited several most interesting sites in Saudi Arabia, the ancient city of Al Ula in an oasis valley green with palm gardens. The city was an improtant trading center and stop along trade routes. The city has been continuously in existance for at least 2,600 years. What we see today is the surviving mud brick architecture in a protected archaeological zone covering perhaps 20 hectares, with more modern buildings nearby.

I also visited three stations along the Hejaz Railroad built just before World War I by German engineers for the Ottoman Sultan. This historic railroad was part of the system the Germans were trying to build to connect Berlin to Baghdad and the Gulf at Kuwait. The Hejaz Railroad was also an important military asset for the Ottomans and for this reason the Arabs sought to disrupt it as part of their revolt against Ottoman rule. They had encouragement from the British. T. E. Laurence, known as Laurence of Arabia, became famous during this time for his activities in the area that included attacks on the Hejaz Railroad. I was able today to photograph these stations, and a few others yesterday, one with a train still in the station, though much deterioratd. There is one station and maintenance facility that includes about 16 buildings at Madain Saleh, near Al Ula, that has been restored. Inside the old maintenance shed there are some of the old carriages, one now completely rebuilt, and also one of the original steam locomotives. Most interesting. Outside there are several other carriages waiting to be rebuilt and they are carefully converting some of the buildings for use as a hotel, making this a unique tourism destination.

Nearby is the Nabatean city of Madain Saleh, with its famous funerary monuments carved into the cliff faces, just as they did at Petra. This site was built about 2,000 years ago during a time when the Nabatean people controled the trade routes of the Saudi Peninsula by controling
the oasis centers. It is quite a spectacular site, and the surrounding geography is some of the most dramatic I have ever seen. We went deep into the valleys in four wheel drive vehicles to see some amazing sand dunes and rock formations, unlike anything I have ever seen, so dramatic. In a way the area reminds me of parts of Arizona and New Mexico, reddish colored sandstone formations eroded by wind and sand over thousands of years. We watched the sun set over mountains at the far side of the valley, a valley full of unusual rock formations and palm groves....

Today was certainly one of the most spectacular days of adventure I have ever had... just amazing...I strongly recommend visiting Saudi Arabia! If I only saw the things I have seen today it would have been worth all the effort and expense of coming here, many times over...

As soon as I have time I will send along some of the pictures...

Best wishes to all

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Cairo Update - 24 Hours and a World of Change

Aljazeera reported 3 million Egyptians in the streets of Egypt waited 7 hours to hear what the army and the new head of the NDP suggested would be Mubarak’s resignation speech. They were stunned when he insisted on by Mubarak’s non-resignation speech last night. Incensed by his speech, and only half way through it, they defiantly waved their shoes in the air. And yet they remained peaceful I don’t know how they did it.

Today there are a million people in and around Tahrir Square and noon prayers have not even started.

Communiqué #2 from the Armed Forces Central Command

The military assures the people of Egypt that it will:
Insure repeal of Emergency Laws and the enforcement of free and fair elections
Monitor the steps to a peaceful transition.
Release the arrested demonstrators AND
Calls on all Egyptians to return to work and resume their everyday lives.

This means the military’s upper echelon essentially stands by the regime. The question is will the middle and lower ranks do so? So far 25 of its members have turned in their arms and publically stood with the demonstrators.

The muezzin is calling noon prayers.

I’ll keep you posted.

P.S. Adel Eltafti, former deputy minister for foreign affairs, said that Hosni Mubarak, Omar Suleiman are mentally incompetent to stand for trial and should be referred to a committee of mental health experts instead! I think they since they’re armed and dangerous to self and others someone needs to bring them in.




Feb 11th 2011 - evening

It happened in a minute.

My young companion, Mohammed’s phone rang as my grandson, Philip, exited Cairo airport’s arrival gate. “Mubark’s resigned! He’s resigned!” we hollered--not “Hi Philip, it’s great to see you.” We left the airport high-fiving and thumbs-upping every which way. Fifty people had gathered round our driver and his car radio. We drove to Tahrir Square horn-honking the celebratory rhythm associated with winning soccer games--the only occasions Egyptians have had to celebrate for 30 years. We passed cars flying huge Egyptian flags and large eight-wheelers with blaring horns. The road filled with cars as we reached city center; people calling out, “Mabruk” (congratulations) and waving peace signs out the windows.

I’d planned on taking Philip to Tahrir to join the protestors. I thought they’d go on for days. But, one minute did it. Omar Suleiman announced Mubarak was leaving and we rushed to Tahrir to celebrate instead! A crowd of millions; not an inch of pavement to be seen. Flags everywhere. Children on their parent’s shoulders. Young women in pony-tails; many more in hijabs; a few in full face veils. Young men and old. Egyptian people; peaceful people stretching further than the eye could see.

We stood near a group from an outlying oasis chanting to the rhythms of Bedouin songs. An almost toothless old man from Upper Egypt, a farmer in galabeya, skull-cap and wool scarf had been in the Square for a week. A middle aged lawyer who’d been at every Lawyer Syndicate demonstration had been in Tahrir every day of the 18 days. “This should have happened long ago,” he told me. “We let him do it. We made him who he is. Not anymore.” He was still coughing from the tear-gas he’d inhaled. The young man next to him pulled out his cell phone with pictures 40 pellets in his back and head. But this was a night of celebration. “Everything was worth it, il hamdu liallah—Thanks to God.”

To those who worry about an Islamist take-over. Please don’t reduce these great people to that. And to those who worry about a military one. The chants were: “Civilian. Civilian. Not military rule!”


Feb 12th

Today was the start of the new era. Everyone turned out to clean up the Square. By the time my cousin, her daughter and our grandchildren arrived with garbage bags and candy, almost every scrap of rubbish had been picked up. Young people proudly polished the lions statues at the entrance to Kasr il Nil Bridge. Others washed off the “Mubarak must leave” graffiti from the walls under them. They brought tears to my eyes.

The message is: We will clean up Egypt! The next steps are forming a civilian interim governing committee, writing a temporary constitution, taking it to referendum, electing a new parliament and then a president. And yes we can! Which reminds me—please thank Obama for his great speech in support of what we did in Egypt. I think we should nominate the country of Egypt for the Nobel Peace Prize.

Amal Sedky Winter
Cairo

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Help for Egyptian Hospitals and Children

Thank you for your continued support and words of appreciation for the updates we have been forwarding from Cairo. The response has been overwhelmingly positive and supportive and we are grateful.

As you know from the news reports (many of you have mentioned watching Al Jazeera English online!) and updates that the disruption to the people in Cairo and elsewhere in Egypt has been substantial. While much of the chaos is over, and the protesters continue mostly unmolested in Tahrir Square, there are hospitals and other organizations that desperately need help to get supplies.

We have decided to help raise funds to provide direct assistance to a hospital and an orphanage in Cairo. We are working with the non-profit educational and cultural organization Salaam Cultural Museum, a registered 501(c)(3) organization. If you would like to join us in helping, please donate. We have set up a donation page through PayPal and you can donate any amount you choose. You can also mail a donation check made out to Salaam Cultural Museum (SCL) to our office at 3806 Whitman Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98103 and we will forward it to the museum.

Please forward this to anyone you know who is concerned about the people of Egypt.

Our donation page is located at this link:
http://www.caravan-serai.com/countries/egypt/FundRaising-Egypt.htm


Thank you in advance for your compassion!

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Cairo Update: The Empire Strikes Back

Our friend in Cairo just sent us this update detailing the violent turn taken in the protests. We all pray for a peaceful outcome and a new government in Egypt, and that our friends and family there stay safe. If you have accounts of what is happening in Cairo, please feel free to share them here.

Feb 2, 2011

The Empire Strikes Back

Last night Mubarak promised that the current parliament would study the two constitutional articles that limit the rights of people to run for elected offices including the presidency for which he promised not to run again. The military told people to go home. Today, Mubarak and his regime mobilized a counter-revolution and sent hundreds of ‘pro-Mubarak’ demonstrators (There is clear evidence in the form of ID cards that these are the regime’s police accompanied by armed bands of their notorious thugs) to attack the thousands of anti-Mubarak protestors in Tahrir Square. Having defined the issue as stability (a matter very close to the Egyptian heart) and chaotic violence (of which people are terrified), they proceeded to create the conditions with which they threatened the country. Anti-government supporters held their ground, calling for Army protection.

Two and a half hours of clashes, many injured, but yet the military stood aside. Although it had plenty of tanks and armored vehicles in place, it let hundreds of people mounted on roughly 60 horses and camels which definitely posed a safety risk enter the square. They were accompanied by police officers from state security and “escaped” criminals (reportedly released by the regime) carrying signs “Daddy Mubarak and Mommy Suzanne, we apologize for the past days’ demonstrations.” Pelting them with rocks and cracking heavy whips, he riders rammed the protesters. There was nothing spontaneous about this attack. Organized groups joined them, a hundred at a time. These people were well coordinated; their signs and placards preprinted. They blocked every entrance to the square so that people could not join the anti-Mubarak demonstrations. No one could leave, so they dug up paving stones. Fears of a blood-bath to follow. They are praying in the square. If the military is not going to protect the people I hope international pressure will work.

The regime propaganda machine, especially government television, has been in full swing mostly frightening the populace while calling for calm. Meanwhile there’s no attempt to contain the violent confrontations. Unfortunately, the combination of unprecedented concessions, the campaign of disinformation, and the staged confrontations have had their effect. Those less sophisticated—and this applies to many of the poor and uneducated—are switching from opposition to Mubarak to supporting him, and the stability and personal safety he promised.

P.S. Rumors that Ahmed Ezz, parliamentarian and Gamal Mubarak’s friend, has been prevented from leaving Egypt. Habib Adli, minister of Interior has been held for investigation by army (which hates him).