The final post from Dane in Iran before returning home...
Subject: Iran Travel 7
Hellow All,
Having arrived in Tehran once more, this will be my final dispatch from Iran. It has been both a long and a short trip; a sweet and sad goodbye.
Looking back, I had hoped to meet more Iranian people in a more personal way, however, that was not the intention of the tour. The tour is set up as an introduction to Iran. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants a deeper understanding about the Iranians and their culture. Given the short time in a large country under the current political environment, it is difficult to deviate from a set Itinerary. It is possible to create your own itinerary, and perhaps that is what I will do in the future.
I can't overly express how valuable I think it is for Americans to travel to Iran at this time. Iranians are truly genuine people who have a strong desire to connect. Their history is deep and varied for which they are quite proud. They have a lot to offer in the way of culture with a personal world perspective.
As I have experienced in the once Soviet Union of 1987, 1988, and 1989, I have had the same experience here in Iran. In both cases, the People are aligned with Americans - the People. In both cases, the People had/have disagreements with our U.S. governmental policies AND with their own governmental policies.
What this says to me: People the world around have more in common with each other than they have in difference. America is a good country, well respected for the strength and integrity of it's people. People of Iran aspire to be like Americans just as the Soviets did, separate from our governmental policies, separate from their governmental polices.
This has been the main premise and motivation for this trip. People to People Diplomacy, in my view is the only way we are going to be able to go forward into the future. There are more than enough nuclear weapons already in existence to insure the total annihilation of the human species. Whether Iran has this technology is less significant than the fact that the U.S., Israel, China, Russia, Great Britain, France, India, Pakistan, and North Korea already have these weapons. We live in a time where these weapons are obsolete, their time has expired.
We will either rid ourselves from these weapons, or we will perish from them. According to the latest from the IAEC Iran is not missing any fissile material. Iran has 0 bombs, the U.S. has 30,000, Israel has 300, Russia has similar count to the U.S.
Eisenhower once said, paraphrased,
"I like to believe that people in the long run are going to do more to promote peace than our governments. Indeed, I think that people want peace so much that one of these days governments had better get out of the way and let them to it."
Thanks for staying with me, my captive audience. It has been a fun ride and I look forward to being home. With any luck this is only the beginning of an opening communication with the Iranian people and the people of America. I hope this is not my last trip to Iran, only time will tell.
In the mean time, I will continue to promote citizen to citizen diplomacy as a legitimate alternative to the often flawed and glacial pace of governmental diplomacy.
Thanks again for listening.
-Dane
Monday, September 22, 2008
Impressions of Iran #4
I am getting caught up on Dane's posts from Iran, so here are 2 that I missed earlier. Enjoy!! - Brenda
Subject: Iran Travel #4
Things just keep getting better and better. We took our bus on a 6 our ride from Kerman to Yazd today. Our hotel is magnificent. The hotel in Tehran and Kerman were nice, but they were large and impersonal whereas this hotel in Yazd is built in the traditional Persian style with central fountains and canals running through the building. The food is excellent, best we have had this trip, being prepared by the Chef who once was employed by the Shaw. Apparently, he was allowed to stay.
We visited a couple of mosques and look at a few carpets today. The architecture her is very traditional, not the new construction you see in Tehran and Kerman.
I went for a walk today by myself and had two meeting with Iranians. As I was walking by a iron gate welding shop a friend of the proprietor stopped me to talk politics. He said he taught English at the university. He was very direct with his questions.
"Where are you from?" "What is the population of America?" "What do you think of the people of Iran?" "What do you think about the tensions between Iran and the United States?" "Do Americans love war?"
After my answers, he said to me that Iranians like Americans and want them to come here. He said Iranians don't want war with America. He thanked me for my time and we both went our different ways.
Then after a short walk further I crossed the street and started to walk back to the hotel. Another man crossed the street, took out his cell phone and said, "It's for you." I looked at him. Then I took the phone and said "Hello?" You know, like your supposed to do. The man on phone had seen me walk by earlier. He called his friend to come get me.
We chatted for a little bit but ran out of time. Provided there is time I may meet up with him again before we go to our next destination. These are ordinary hard working Iranians who are very interested in meeting and talking with Americans.
We saw a very interesting thing today. On our way out of Kerman ALL of the trucks loaded with goods for transport were lined up three deep, a quarter of a mile long waiting for the only open gas station in Kerman. These guys must have to wait 2 or 3 hours just to fill up. We were allowed to cut in line because tour buses has some kind of special license. We filed up with 175 liters of diesel.
Well that's it for now.
Tomorrow we're going camel shopping.
-Dane
Subject: Iran Travel #4
Things just keep getting better and better. We took our bus on a 6 our ride from Kerman to Yazd today. Our hotel is magnificent. The hotel in Tehran and Kerman were nice, but they were large and impersonal whereas this hotel in Yazd is built in the traditional Persian style with central fountains and canals running through the building. The food is excellent, best we have had this trip, being prepared by the Chef who once was employed by the Shaw. Apparently, he was allowed to stay.
We visited a couple of mosques and look at a few carpets today. The architecture her is very traditional, not the new construction you see in Tehran and Kerman.
I went for a walk today by myself and had two meeting with Iranians. As I was walking by a iron gate welding shop a friend of the proprietor stopped me to talk politics. He said he taught English at the university. He was very direct with his questions.
"Where are you from?" "What is the population of America?" "What do you think of the people of Iran?" "What do you think about the tensions between Iran and the United States?" "Do Americans love war?"
After my answers, he said to me that Iranians like Americans and want them to come here. He said Iranians don't want war with America. He thanked me for my time and we both went our different ways.
Then after a short walk further I crossed the street and started to walk back to the hotel. Another man crossed the street, took out his cell phone and said, "It's for you." I looked at him. Then I took the phone and said "Hello?" You know, like your supposed to do. The man on phone had seen me walk by earlier. He called his friend to come get me.
We chatted for a little bit but ran out of time. Provided there is time I may meet up with him again before we go to our next destination. These are ordinary hard working Iranians who are very interested in meeting and talking with Americans.
We saw a very interesting thing today. On our way out of Kerman ALL of the trucks loaded with goods for transport were lined up three deep, a quarter of a mile long waiting for the only open gas station in Kerman. These guys must have to wait 2 or 3 hours just to fill up. We were allowed to cut in line because tour buses has some kind of special license. We filed up with 175 liters of diesel.
Well that's it for now.
Tomorrow we're going camel shopping.
-Dane
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Postcards from Iran #5
Here is another posting from Dane about his experiences so far in Iran. This is labeled as #5, so I got this one a little out of sequence. Just keep that in mind and scroll down through the list to see the other posts he has submitted. Thanks again for visiting and if you have any comments please email them to me at brenda@caravan-serai.com. - Brenda
After looking back through the last communique I now realize that my spelling is both horrendous and atrosous. In my defense let me just say that first; the connection can be a little slow; second, I'm a little road weary at the end of the day, and lastly, I can't spell. One of you has already commented on my "barely" soup comment which of course was suppose to be barley soup, etc. Thank you for your understanding.
And, I've noticed that I have been giving glowing reports on my Iran experience, and now fear that I may be accused of working for the Iranian Chamber of Commerce. I assure that I am not. In fact, though every personal experience I have had has been positive in regards to the Iranians and their good nature, we did see propaganda in Tehran.
While in Tehran we did get to drive by the building with the American flag in a vertical direction. At the end of the stripes are falling bombs. The caption reads "Down with America". Our guide made the point that this graphic has been up for 25 years. This is the building that FOX News shows over and over on their news casts. The point here is that this is a Iranian government sentiment, not an Iranian people sentiment. Propaganda works in two directions.
Even today, we stopped on our way from Yazd to Shiraz to look at (another) :) mosque. I talked with an Iranian who wanted me to know that he likes Americans. It was a small exchange but that was his main message. Shopping in the Bazaar in Yazd yesterday resulted in the same message over and over, young and old. "We like America, we want them to come here and spend money." They didn't actually say they want us to spend money, but that is essentially the message. Come to Iran, exchange cultures, leave your money and bring a little bit of Iran home.
Speaking of the Chamber of Commerce, Dick Cheney is either visiting or has just visited Azerbaijan. Can you guess who is the CEO of the American-Azerbaijan Chamber of Commerce? If you said James Baker III you'd be right. And, his sidekick Henry Kissinger is a member too. Azerbaijan borders Iran. I mention this because I think it is significant in understanding the politics between Iran, the United States, Russia, and Georgia.
ON the way to Shiraz we stopped to see Cyrous the Greats' Tomb and the ruins of his palaces. Some columns of the palaces still exist with some minimal relief sculpture, the tomb is more complete but has scaffolding all around it. We will see Persepolis tomorrow along with tombs carved into the limestone mountains. Tomorrow there should be a lot more detail and intact architecture. I am looking forward to this.
I should talk a little about Shiraz. It is very cosmopolitan here, even more so than Tehran IMHO. At first blush, this feels like a place where many Iranians come for vacation. Our hotel even sports a couple of palm trees and the climate feels more temperate and less arid. The hotel is huge and feels like it could be in a major European City. Though there are many differences, Shiraz reminds me a little bit like Tashkent, though Tashkent is a much larger city. Shiraz has a population of 2,000,000. The feel here is much more relaxed and the dress is less restrictive here then in Kerman or conservative Yazd.
Well, you've wasted another 30 minutes -That's it for Car Talk- until next time.
-Dane
After looking back through the last communique I now realize that my spelling is both horrendous and atrosous. In my defense let me just say that first; the connection can be a little slow; second, I'm a little road weary at the end of the day, and lastly, I can't spell. One of you has already commented on my "barely" soup comment which of course was suppose to be barley soup, etc. Thank you for your understanding.
And, I've noticed that I have been giving glowing reports on my Iran experience, and now fear that I may be accused of working for the Iranian Chamber of Commerce. I assure that I am not. In fact, though every personal experience I have had has been positive in regards to the Iranians and their good nature, we did see propaganda in Tehran.
While in Tehran we did get to drive by the building with the American flag in a vertical direction. At the end of the stripes are falling bombs. The caption reads "Down with America". Our guide made the point that this graphic has been up for 25 years. This is the building that FOX News shows over and over on their news casts. The point here is that this is a Iranian government sentiment, not an Iranian people sentiment. Propaganda works in two directions.
Even today, we stopped on our way from Yazd to Shiraz to look at (another) :) mosque. I talked with an Iranian who wanted me to know that he likes Americans. It was a small exchange but that was his main message. Shopping in the Bazaar in Yazd yesterday resulted in the same message over and over, young and old. "We like America, we want them to come here and spend money." They didn't actually say they want us to spend money, but that is essentially the message. Come to Iran, exchange cultures, leave your money and bring a little bit of Iran home.
Speaking of the Chamber of Commerce, Dick Cheney is either visiting or has just visited Azerbaijan. Can you guess who is the CEO of the American-Azerbaijan Chamber of Commerce? If you said James Baker III you'd be right. And, his sidekick Henry Kissinger is a member too. Azerbaijan borders Iran. I mention this because I think it is significant in understanding the politics between Iran, the United States, Russia, and Georgia.
ON the way to Shiraz we stopped to see Cyrous the Greats' Tomb and the ruins of his palaces. Some columns of the palaces still exist with some minimal relief sculpture, the tomb is more complete but has scaffolding all around it. We will see Persepolis tomorrow along with tombs carved into the limestone mountains. Tomorrow there should be a lot more detail and intact architecture. I am looking forward to this.
I should talk a little about Shiraz. It is very cosmopolitan here, even more so than Tehran IMHO. At first blush, this feels like a place where many Iranians come for vacation. Our hotel even sports a couple of palm trees and the climate feels more temperate and less arid. The hotel is huge and feels like it could be in a major European City. Though there are many differences, Shiraz reminds me a little bit like Tashkent, though Tashkent is a much larger city. Shiraz has a population of 2,000,000. The feel here is much more relaxed and the dress is less restrictive here then in Kerman or conservative Yazd.
Well, you've wasted another 30 minutes -That's it for Car Talk- until next time.
-Dane
Monday, September 15, 2008
Continuation of Post #6 from Iran
Subject: Re: Iran Travel 6 continued
I have just a little more time to finish my letter from last night.
My attempt is to give you impressions of what it is like here in Iran. Snippets of my experiences may help give you another perspective of this country. The only way to find out what Iran is like is of course to come here.
I learned that visas are not hard to get IF you go on an organized tour like the one I am on. Getting a visa for an individual from America is next to impossible. Americans must hire an Iranian guide while in the country. That is not to say the guide has to be with you 24 hours a day. But, the cities of interest and places of stay have to be arranged for Americans. For Australians, Germans, Japanese, etc. you are free to roam the country without guide. If you have an Israeli stamp in you passport you will not be allowed entry.
Alcohol is forbidden. Having alcohol is worse than possessing drugs. Having said that our guide says that people do buy and drink alcohol in their private homes. Think the prohibition.
People are very pleasent in Esfahan. Again I have had the same conversatoins about the U.S. and Iran about how the people can get along, why not our governments.
Yesterday we visited an artist who paints miaturettes. His work is excellent and I have taken pictures of his work. He has some exquisite jewlery boxes that are selling for $3500. I didn't buy one.
Got to go my time is out. -Dane
I have just a little more time to finish my letter from last night.
My attempt is to give you impressions of what it is like here in Iran. Snippets of my experiences may help give you another perspective of this country. The only way to find out what Iran is like is of course to come here.
I learned that visas are not hard to get IF you go on an organized tour like the one I am on. Getting a visa for an individual from America is next to impossible. Americans must hire an Iranian guide while in the country. That is not to say the guide has to be with you 24 hours a day. But, the cities of interest and places of stay have to be arranged for Americans. For Australians, Germans, Japanese, etc. you are free to roam the country without guide. If you have an Israeli stamp in you passport you will not be allowed entry.
Alcohol is forbidden. Having alcohol is worse than possessing drugs. Having said that our guide says that people do buy and drink alcohol in their private homes. Think the prohibition.
People are very pleasent in Esfahan. Again I have had the same conversatoins about the U.S. and Iran about how the people can get along, why not our governments.
Yesterday we visited an artist who paints miaturettes. His work is excellent and I have taken pictures of his work. He has some exquisite jewlery boxes that are selling for $3500. I didn't buy one.
Got to go my time is out. -Dane
Impressions of Iran #6
I think i might be missing a few posts from Iran, but I wanted to get this one posted. When I get the others they will be posted ASAP. Thanks for visiting!!
Subject: Iran Travel 6
Start with this image: Iranian parents walking hand in hand with their little girl who is just begining to walk. Her shoes squeek with each step that she takes. The shoes help her learn faster because she can coordinate her steps with the sound of each shoe hitting the pavement. Unfortuantely, I didn't get a picture.
Because I had read a lot of news about the politics between Iran and the United States before I arrived here, I had the notion that the Iranian military would be visible and everywhere on the streets. This couldn't be a more wrong picture. We are now in Esfahan which has roughly a population of 1,000,000. There is no visible militray present in any of the cities we have visited. We have driven past small bases with manned gaurd towers high above, but rarely do we see anyone other than policemen in uniform. So, this was a surprise for me. My origianl view was not accurate.
Esfahan is a lovely city with a large river running through it. Esfahan is a city of bridges, 400 year old bridges. In fact, all of Persia is full of ruins and ancient sites of civilization. I can't go into Pesian history because one could spend their entire life studying the different rulers and eras, starting several hundred years before the birth of Christ.
The people on my tour are all Americans. We have a couple who are Japanese American, a Chinese American, a Filopenea American, and the rest of us of European decent. We are all 100 percent American, and everyone is extremely well traveled. Quite a few are travel agents in their own right, most are retired.
The typical food we have been having is a kabob of lamb, chicken, and fish with rice. Tonight we had a deep dish pizza and it was quite good.
I have to cut this short because my time is about to run out, but I'll send another dispatch from IRan. -Dane
Subject: Iran Travel 6
Start with this image: Iranian parents walking hand in hand with their little girl who is just begining to walk. Her shoes squeek with each step that she takes. The shoes help her learn faster because she can coordinate her steps with the sound of each shoe hitting the pavement. Unfortuantely, I didn't get a picture.
Because I had read a lot of news about the politics between Iran and the United States before I arrived here, I had the notion that the Iranian military would be visible and everywhere on the streets. This couldn't be a more wrong picture. We are now in Esfahan which has roughly a population of 1,000,000. There is no visible militray present in any of the cities we have visited. We have driven past small bases with manned gaurd towers high above, but rarely do we see anyone other than policemen in uniform. So, this was a surprise for me. My origianl view was not accurate.
Esfahan is a lovely city with a large river running through it. Esfahan is a city of bridges, 400 year old bridges. In fact, all of Persia is full of ruins and ancient sites of civilization. I can't go into Pesian history because one could spend their entire life studying the different rulers and eras, starting several hundred years before the birth of Christ.
The people on my tour are all Americans. We have a couple who are Japanese American, a Chinese American, a Filopenea American, and the rest of us of European decent. We are all 100 percent American, and everyone is extremely well traveled. Quite a few are travel agents in their own right, most are retired.
The typical food we have been having is a kabob of lamb, chicken, and fish with rice. Tonight we had a deep dish pizza and it was quite good.
I have to cut this short because my time is about to run out, but I'll send another dispatch from IRan. -Dane
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Iran Tour Report #3
Subject: Iran travel #3
Today we are in Kerman which is interior in the country south and east of Tehran. We flew on a small jet yesterday, and thankfully we will not be getting on another airplane until Thursday. I say thankfully because Iran is conducting anti-aircraft military exercises for the next three days. There is no outward appearance of the exercises, life is normal here. Just glad not to be in the air if you know what I mean.
In spite of the back and forth between Israel, Iran, the U.S, and now France no one seems to be outwardly concerned, in fact it is much the same feeling I got when in the States. I read on the Internet that the Israeli President does not want an attack, so I think that takes some of the tension off. Anyway, enough politics because in our travel we are remote from these thoughts. It's been a great experience so far.
Kerman is a small desert town that is now being rebuilt after it was destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 2003. Bam, an outlying town was home of the largest adobe structures in the world. It was also destroyed by the earthquake. Instead of going to Bam, we traveled to a magnificently restored citadel in Rayen. The countryside is reminiscent of the Serra Nevadas, or the Mojave Desert, or perhaps parts of the Yakima Valley. Mountains surround us.
The weather is hot and dry, but it seems less hot than Savannah to me.
We've seen a couple of mosques today and went shopping in a bazaar. I bought a nomad camel saddle bag and tomorrow I'm going to shop for a camel. (Just kidding Gail, I'm not really going to buy a camel)
So far, every night I wake up around 2:30 in the morning. This makes no sense because that is 6:00 PM in Savannah, seems something is out of whack. At this point, I'm going to keep getting up at 2:30 so that when I get back to Savannah I can sleep until 6:00PM. (Just kidding, Gail)
People don't understand a lot of English, but they usually understand a few words. It is fun to connect with some of the Iranians because they want to know where I am from. They think we are from Germany; guess the Germans are Iran's number one visitors. When they find out I'm from the U.S. they are always friendly. And, even though we don't get to have an in depth conversation they are grateful that we are here because it shows them we are interested in them and their culture. And of course, they like it when we buy things.
Some even thank me for being here, though that could just mean they don't know what else to say.
It is fun to watch the girls (Just kidding, Gail). The ones in their 20's seem to be stretching the envelope. They wear bright colors and show more of their hair. One girl had a pierced lip (in Tehran), and another had bright eyeliner on. They only have their faces showing so they are very adept at make-up techniques.
Our guide tells us that many of the girls are getting nose jobs, and in fact, I have seen women with bandages on their petite noses (in Tehran). He also tells us they have other types of augmentation as well. Seems things are the same the world over.
Somewhere I read that Iran needs to create 800,000 jobs per year to stay up with the growing population. The majority of the population is under the age of 30. Gas is now $2.50 a gallon, up from 40 cents per gallon equivalent not long ago. This is putting the average Iranian in a pinch just like in the U.S. and it seems their economy like ours is not looking very bright at the moment. The Iranians would like more Americans to come here and spend their dollars.
More later.
-Dane
Today we are in Kerman which is interior in the country south and east of Tehran. We flew on a small jet yesterday, and thankfully we will not be getting on another airplane until Thursday. I say thankfully because Iran is conducting anti-aircraft military exercises for the next three days. There is no outward appearance of the exercises, life is normal here. Just glad not to be in the air if you know what I mean.
In spite of the back and forth between Israel, Iran, the U.S, and now France no one seems to be outwardly concerned, in fact it is much the same feeling I got when in the States. I read on the Internet that the Israeli President does not want an attack, so I think that takes some of the tension off. Anyway, enough politics because in our travel we are remote from these thoughts. It's been a great experience so far.
Kerman is a small desert town that is now being rebuilt after it was destroyed by a devastating earthquake in 2003. Bam, an outlying town was home of the largest adobe structures in the world. It was also destroyed by the earthquake. Instead of going to Bam, we traveled to a magnificently restored citadel in Rayen. The countryside is reminiscent of the Serra Nevadas, or the Mojave Desert, or perhaps parts of the Yakima Valley. Mountains surround us.
The weather is hot and dry, but it seems less hot than Savannah to me.
We've seen a couple of mosques today and went shopping in a bazaar. I bought a nomad camel saddle bag and tomorrow I'm going to shop for a camel. (Just kidding Gail, I'm not really going to buy a camel)
So far, every night I wake up around 2:30 in the morning. This makes no sense because that is 6:00 PM in Savannah, seems something is out of whack. At this point, I'm going to keep getting up at 2:30 so that when I get back to Savannah I can sleep until 6:00PM. (Just kidding, Gail)
People don't understand a lot of English, but they usually understand a few words. It is fun to connect with some of the Iranians because they want to know where I am from. They think we are from Germany; guess the Germans are Iran's number one visitors. When they find out I'm from the U.S. they are always friendly. And, even though we don't get to have an in depth conversation they are grateful that we are here because it shows them we are interested in them and their culture. And of course, they like it when we buy things.
Some even thank me for being here, though that could just mean they don't know what else to say.
It is fun to watch the girls (Just kidding, Gail). The ones in their 20's seem to be stretching the envelope. They wear bright colors and show more of their hair. One girl had a pierced lip (in Tehran), and another had bright eyeliner on. They only have their faces showing so they are very adept at make-up techniques.
Our guide tells us that many of the girls are getting nose jobs, and in fact, I have seen women with bandages on their petite noses (in Tehran). He also tells us they have other types of augmentation as well. Seems things are the same the world over.
Somewhere I read that Iran needs to create 800,000 jobs per year to stay up with the growing population. The majority of the population is under the age of 30. Gas is now $2.50 a gallon, up from 40 cents per gallon equivalent not long ago. This is putting the average Iranian in a pinch just like in the U.S. and it seems their economy like ours is not looking very bright at the moment. The Iranians would like more Americans to come here and spend their dollars.
More later.
-Dane
Another day in Iran
Subject: Iran Travel #2
Hellooo Tehraaannnnn, (shades of Robin Williams)
Another great day of travel to many museums and surrounds of Tehran. This morning we visited Saad Abad complex where 18 historical royal palaces have now been turned into various museums. We didn't see them all, however we did see the Farshcian Museum consisting of Mr. Maumoud Farxhician's exquisite paintings many based upon Persian stories and fables. The painting are quite fanciful and colorful and meticulously drafted.
The complex is located farther to the north of the city in a higher elevation, with the temperature feeling more pleasant. London Plane trees are everywhere here and in the center of Tehran. It is the dominant tree as are larger junipers.
Yesterday, we did get to see the ceramics museum, the glass museum, and the carpet museum. If it sounds like we are seeing a lot of museums we are. From my experience, I think this is typical for countries to put their best foot forward to show their cultural histories and accomplishments. It also is a way to insure tourist dollars are coming into the approved places. And while, as with any tour, it can feel like we are being lead from place to place, at no time does it feel like we are being kept track of or being discouraged to explore. In fact, from the guide books there is some good trekking to be had in the mountains surrounding Tehran. You can certainly travel here without an organized tour, though you will want a guide unless you are a seasoned traveler up for an adventure.
Bahman, our guide, has mentioned drugs are becoming an issue in Tehran. This shouldn't be a big surprise considering that drugs have made it into every major city in the world. Why should Tehran be exempt? But, it certainly isn't on the scale that it is in Savannah, for instance. Violent crime is not an issue throughout most of Iran. If there is violent crime it probably occurs along the borders of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Iraq as you might expect.
We are here during Ramadan where people are fasting everyday. People fast from dawn to dusk, then break fast in the evenings. It is not compulsory to fast though it seems that people want to honor the holiday, like we would honor Christmas. It is time spent with family. But, business continues and if a Muslim can't fast because of travel or another commitment, he/she can do it at another time.
There a mixing attitudes from what I can discern about the women's dress. Women do not wear burkas contrary to a common held belief in the States. They are required to cover themselves in gowns of their choosing, and head scarves. But, their hands and feet are visible, and now even are letting their hair be exposed. Also, they have no trouble expressing their individuality or even sensuality in the way they wear there clothes. Some even wear more shear coverings, though this is met with some suppression for some, but not all of the authorities. What I understand may be happening is that the police see these pretty women, make them come down to the station to be closer to them. Same man / woman relationship going on for centuries.
Our meals are very good, consisting of chicken and lamb on top of rice. Barely soup with lemon is common. And fish, either fried or filleted is a main item.
This is enough for now I think, I'll be in touch again soon, if not tomorrow then the next day. -Dane
Hellooo Tehraaannnnn, (shades of Robin Williams)
Another great day of travel to many museums and surrounds of Tehran. This morning we visited Saad Abad complex where 18 historical royal palaces have now been turned into various museums. We didn't see them all, however we did see the Farshcian Museum consisting of Mr. Maumoud Farxhician's exquisite paintings many based upon Persian stories and fables. The painting are quite fanciful and colorful and meticulously drafted.
The complex is located farther to the north of the city in a higher elevation, with the temperature feeling more pleasant. London Plane trees are everywhere here and in the center of Tehran. It is the dominant tree as are larger junipers.
Yesterday, we did get to see the ceramics museum, the glass museum, and the carpet museum. If it sounds like we are seeing a lot of museums we are. From my experience, I think this is typical for countries to put their best foot forward to show their cultural histories and accomplishments. It also is a way to insure tourist dollars are coming into the approved places. And while, as with any tour, it can feel like we are being lead from place to place, at no time does it feel like we are being kept track of or being discouraged to explore. In fact, from the guide books there is some good trekking to be had in the mountains surrounding Tehran. You can certainly travel here without an organized tour, though you will want a guide unless you are a seasoned traveler up for an adventure.
Bahman, our guide, has mentioned drugs are becoming an issue in Tehran. This shouldn't be a big surprise considering that drugs have made it into every major city in the world. Why should Tehran be exempt? But, it certainly isn't on the scale that it is in Savannah, for instance. Violent crime is not an issue throughout most of Iran. If there is violent crime it probably occurs along the borders of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Iraq as you might expect.
We are here during Ramadan where people are fasting everyday. People fast from dawn to dusk, then break fast in the evenings. It is not compulsory to fast though it seems that people want to honor the holiday, like we would honor Christmas. It is time spent with family. But, business continues and if a Muslim can't fast because of travel or another commitment, he/she can do it at another time.
There a mixing attitudes from what I can discern about the women's dress. Women do not wear burkas contrary to a common held belief in the States. They are required to cover themselves in gowns of their choosing, and head scarves. But, their hands and feet are visible, and now even are letting their hair be exposed. Also, they have no trouble expressing their individuality or even sensuality in the way they wear there clothes. Some even wear more shear coverings, though this is met with some suppression for some, but not all of the authorities. What I understand may be happening is that the police see these pretty women, make them come down to the station to be closer to them. Same man / woman relationship going on for centuries.
Our meals are very good, consisting of chicken and lamb on top of rice. Barely soup with lemon is common. And fish, either fried or filleted is a main item.
This is enough for now I think, I'll be in touch again soon, if not tomorrow then the next day. -Dane
Reports from Iran
Below is the first of several posts just received from a member of our tour group in Iran. Enjoy!
Hello family, friends and neighbors:
I've landed in Tehran this morning around 2:30, got into the hotel with the group and into my hotel room around 5:00AM, woke up around 7:30 so I'm operating on about 2.5 hours of sleep.
I don't have many experiences to report naturally, but I have many impressions. One of the questions that someone asked me back in the States was "Where are you flying out of to go to Iran?" The answer is London, and I've since learned that there are flights from London, Paris, and Frankfort five days a week, so not as rare of an occasion as one might think.
We flew in a Boeing 747 which was 75% to 80% full. Our Iranian tour guide tells us that 1000 non-Iranian American-Americans flew to Tehran last year. I'm guessing the number of Iranian Americans is much higher than that, and of course there are many, many other nationalities that come and go.
As I was reading the English translation Iranian Newspaper I came across an article on a recent Iranian 747 whose engine caught fire and had to have an emergency landing. The article also stated that another plane had to turn back for another major mechanical failure not that long ago. It went on to discuss that because of the U.S. sanctions, getting parts for the Iranian domestic air fleet was not possible.
Someone needs to tell the State department that 747 airplane parts are not interchangeable with military plane parts and therefore should not be included as part of the sanctions. WHY? Because, I still have to get home! Call your congressmen now. Thank you.
ON a more serious note, the breakfast was very good. And the coffee, too, was excellent.
Today, we will explore Tehran and I'm hoping, Gail, that we will get to see the ceramics museum. IN any case, ceramics will be explored sometime on this trip.
Rita is our American tour guide an organizer. She is absolutely great. She has taken so many of these trips that most of the 12 of us (my first trip with her) travel only with her where ever she goes, she has done this for numerous years. She has taken U.S. congressmen to Iraq for instance, so she is the right person for this trip and her knowledge is extensive. I trust her completely.
No big surprise to me, but perhaps to many of you, people here are open and hospitable. People are friendly and there are no open hostilities toward Americans. Of course people are aware of the tensions between our two countries, but the people here are very apt at distinguishing between another country's policies and it's people. Something that I fear may not be as widely held in our dear United States.
Well, that's it for now but I intend to write everyday as long as internet is accessible and it seems that it will be.
Hope you are all doing well, and for my wife and friends in Georgia (the state) hope that hurricane goes somewhere other than near you all.
-Dane
Hello family, friends and neighbors:
I've landed in Tehran this morning around 2:30, got into the hotel with the group and into my hotel room around 5:00AM, woke up around 7:30 so I'm operating on about 2.5 hours of sleep.
I don't have many experiences to report naturally, but I have many impressions. One of the questions that someone asked me back in the States was "Where are you flying out of to go to Iran?" The answer is London, and I've since learned that there are flights from London, Paris, and Frankfort five days a week, so not as rare of an occasion as one might think.
We flew in a Boeing 747 which was 75% to 80% full. Our Iranian tour guide tells us that 1000 non-Iranian American-Americans flew to Tehran last year. I'm guessing the number of Iranian Americans is much higher than that, and of course there are many, many other nationalities that come and go.
As I was reading the English translation Iranian Newspaper I came across an article on a recent Iranian 747 whose engine caught fire and had to have an emergency landing. The article also stated that another plane had to turn back for another major mechanical failure not that long ago. It went on to discuss that because of the U.S. sanctions, getting parts for the Iranian domestic air fleet was not possible.
Someone needs to tell the State department that 747 airplane parts are not interchangeable with military plane parts and therefore should not be included as part of the sanctions. WHY? Because, I still have to get home! Call your congressmen now. Thank you.
ON a more serious note, the breakfast was very good. And the coffee, too, was excellent.
Today, we will explore Tehran and I'm hoping, Gail, that we will get to see the ceramics museum. IN any case, ceramics will be explored sometime on this trip.
Rita is our American tour guide an organizer. She is absolutely great. She has taken so many of these trips that most of the 12 of us (my first trip with her) travel only with her where ever she goes, she has done this for numerous years. She has taken U.S. congressmen to Iraq for instance, so she is the right person for this trip and her knowledge is extensive. I trust her completely.
No big surprise to me, but perhaps to many of you, people here are open and hospitable. People are friendly and there are no open hostilities toward Americans. Of course people are aware of the tensions between our two countries, but the people here are very apt at distinguishing between another country's policies and it's people. Something that I fear may not be as widely held in our dear United States.
Well, that's it for now but I intend to write everyday as long as internet is accessible and it seems that it will be.
Hope you are all doing well, and for my wife and friends in Georgia (the state) hope that hurricane goes somewhere other than near you all.
-Dane
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