Caspian Saga

This was written by one of our tour participants on the Caucasus Tour Oct 27 - Nov 9, 2012. We had a great time, excellent food, amazing sites, and wonderful people. Thanks for sharing this fun poem, Dona!

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In October of 2012 our group set out
To discover what the Caucasus were all about
We started out in Azerbaijan on the Caspian Sea
In Baku an amazing great city to see

Baku is really a mix of the old and the new
With lots of buildings for us to view
Old Town is really a delight
And the designer shops were quite the sight

In Baku we saw old paintings on rock
We saw the Caspian Sea without a dock
We watched the flames on the buildings tall
Saw the fireworks  over the water fall

We dined outside in places without sound
In private places with greenery around
We tried all the new foods with great delight
Some of the dishes were quite a sight.

The fresh bread was way too good
Causing us to eat more than we really should
The appetizers were really a full meal
But we did not stop there which was a bad deal

We visited markets with produce and meat
It was so fresh but didn’t want animal feet
The spices and nuts and honey to sell
At least the people here can eat well

Our guide, Yasim, in Azerbaijan was  pleasing
We laughed and joked and he took our teasing
But at the border we had to leave him
Our view of him will not soon grow dim

Then  we met up with Tamara  our guide
In Georgia she has lots of pride
She knows  so much and she tried to share it
But into some of our minds - it surely does not fit

The first night in Georgia  at a guest house we did stay
They were delightful to introduce us to their way
Our hosts there showered us with food and toasts galore
Our time there  showed us what was in store

We visited  old houses and museums along the way
Keeping up was hard so we did not stray
There are walls and museums of all kinds of things
Fashions, statues  and even some rings

We ate our way around the city
If our stomachs were only larger- what a pity
Our group is getting to know one another
And only in the churches our heads we did cover

Tbilisi is a very interesting city
Too bad it is poor which is a pity
But they have only been a country for 20 years
They are so proud of their freedom with no Russian fears

Lastly to Armenia we finally went
Now Laura was the guide that heaven sent
Seems the whole country is full of heritage sites
Monasteries and churches with no lights

We saw frescoes in  churches and monastaries
We saw walls that must have been  built  by fairies
We saw carvings most everywhere
And statues at which we often did  stare

We  drove on curvy roads that were bumpy
Seeing small towns and buildings that were frumpy
We stayed in a place way too small
About all  there was to do is look at wall

A lake was seen along the way
Lunch was from many a full tray
Then 290 steps to see the view
It was done by the real tough few

We have all eaten way too much food
But it seems to keep us in a good mood
The tomatoes and cukes were devine
The many breads were really fine

We had great fruit and lots of cheese
Eggplant dishes went in the breeze
Trying new foods is really fun
We ate until we were finally done

Lunch in a cave was a real hit
The lavash was bigger by quite a bit
The Grand Candy store was too much fun
Some of us will hit it again on the run

Yerevan is full of churches and museums
Laura set out to have us all see um
There is just way too much to learn and see
Not possible  in a short time where to be.

Our last day together was great
The Pagan temple had nothing we could hate
The singers there were a great surprise
For them they really had our ears and eyes

The museum of history was out last stop
It helped us to learn a lot
This journey  has been quite an experience
At times it took lots of endurance!

Now this group is an amazing  bunch
We talked constantly over lunch
All  have traveled to many places
Bringing us new dimension to our faces

Stacey is the one to go to for hats
Sloan is the one who seems to likes dogs and cats
These east coast sisters seem like a team
Having wine together for them is a dream

Terry is the lone male on the trip
His sense of humor is  often quite hip
Brenda  and her mom Bobbi are lots of fun
Taking lots of pictures and collecting junk until they are done

Nora is busy learning lots of stuff
With roots to this area she never has enough
Kelly is busy smiling and never sad
Dressing up for dinner trying to making us all look bad

Linda has to put up with me on this trip
I do what I can to keep her hip
I spent my time looking for chocolate and ice cream
In Tbilisi  & Yerevan I really found my dream

Thanks to everyone for making many days with great trips
I am sure  forever it will be on everyones lips
May our paths cross again real soon
Traveling is for us the real tune!

Armenia! We Have Arrived!

Yesterday we said our farewell to Georgia and crossed the border in to Armenia. A little heads up on the procedure: you have to walk through the neutral zone over a bridge with a little river below. There are cables to keep people and big items from falling over the side, but it would not stop a purse or a passport from falling into the water below! That was all I could think of as I walked through the no man's land- don't drop your purse! Don't drop your purse! It could just drop on the pavement or it could fall a little to the side and then down to the river!

We all made it without incident and got onto our Armenia bus with our new guide and driver. We then made our way to see two UNESCO World Heritage sites Haghpat Monastery on the edge of the Debed River canyon and Sanahin Monastery, on a mountaintop. Here we learned a bit about the vast history of the monasteries and Christianity in Armenia. It is quite a long history withany influences from surrounding kingdoms and empires over the centuries.

One thing I noticed is that Armenia is very proud of their wine and brandy industry. You can find these products on sale just about anywhere- even at the kiosks outside the monasteries. I tried a taste of red wine last night and would have had more but I was feeling a bit under the weather. I can't wait to try more! The little I did have was very tasty.

We stayed at a hotel designed a bit like castle on the River Debed called the Tufenkian. It had a lodge-like feel with a big open lobby and lots of comfy seating to just sit and relax. You could go out on the patio and enjoy the rushing river and steep canyon walls when its warmer out. Really a very nice setting. Tonight we are in Tzakhadzor at the Kecharis Hotel. This is a winter resort area with a ski hill nearby.

Our lunch was on the shores of Lake Sevan. It reminded me a bit of Lake Chelan back home. Mountains and dry hills surrounding this huge fresh water lake. The trout at lunch was from the lake and was excellent.

Well, its time to get some rest. Tomorrow we go to Yerevan with sightseeing along the way.

The Caucasus: Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

October 27 - November 9, 2012

$3875 pp/do, land only

Oct 27: Welcome to Azerbaijan! Upon our arrival at Baku airport, we will be met and assisted, then transfer to our hotel for overnight at the Park Inn Hotel at the heart of the City.

Oct 28: After breakfast we will depart for full day tour of Baku including lunch at the open-air restaurant Chanag Gala. Baku, Azerbaijan's capitol city has a cosmopolitan air about it with oil wealth used to create a unique blend of Soviet and Islamic architecture. Oil has been a part of Baku for many centuries but the city did not become an oil "boom town" until the late 1800's. Tour includes visit of open-air museum Gobustan (rock paintings), Old City with Shirvan Shah Palace and Maiden Tower, visit of local Teza Bazaar and walking tour of pedestrian zone. Dinner at Bah Bah Restaurant, famous for its delightful cuisine prepared on the basis of old Azerbaijan culinary recipes. Transfer to the hotel after dinner. (B/D) 

Oct 29: After breakfast we will depart Baku for the mountain town of Sheki via Shemakha, the royal seat of the Shirvan Shahs from the 9th century to the 18th century. Lunch and sightseeing en-route (see Diri Baba, Yeddi Gumbaz in Shemakha). Continue to Sheki. Upon arrival in Sheki, check in at 5* Sheki Saray Hotel. Overnight. (B/D) 

Oct 30: After breakfast we will check out and depart for a half-day tour of Sheki including visit of magnificent Khan's Palace, Panorama point, shabaka shop, sweet shop, and the local bazaar. Depart Sheki for the Georgian / Azerbaijan border (Lagodekhi) via Zakatali where we will stop for lunch. Zakatali is located at the confluence of several rivers that come down from the Caucasus Mountains to the north. Meet at the border with our Georgian partner and exchange bus / guide. Welcome to Georgia! After we get our Georgian bus and guide we will drive to Telavi. Overnight in guesthouses. (B/D) 

Oct 31: After breakfast we depart for Tbilisi with stops on the way. We will visit the town of Tsinandali and a noble family house/museum of the 19th century with a beautiful park. In Signaghi we will see the 16-17th century town, renovated, so called town of love, all surrounded by the wall. We will have a chance to wander around and to explore the city. There are nice cute restaurants there as well and we will have time for independent lunch there. Continue on to Tbilisi for dinner and overnight at the Holiday Inn or similar. (B/D)

Nov 1: After breakfast we will have a city tour of Tblisi which will include the State Museum of Georgia, which has a vast collection of icons and metalwork, and also include a walk along Sharden Street and the new Peace Bridge. Afterwards we will drive to Mtskheta, the ancient spiritual capital of Georgia. Visits will include Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (11th century) and Jvari Church (7th century). Return to Tbilisi for dinner and overnight. (B/D) 

Nov 2: After breakfast we will depart for David Gareji, one of Georgia's most important and remarkable ancient religious sites. The area contains several monasteries carved out of the limestone rock, and built in the 6th century by the Davit, one of the 13 Syrian fathers. The area had fallen into neglect and was even used by the Soviets for military exercises, but the 19 known monasteries in the area are now being restored. We will have a picnic lunch along the way. Return to Tbilisi for overnight. (B/D) 

Nov 3: Check out after breakfast and drive to the Armenian border. Upon arrival at the border crossing of Bagratashen, proceed through usual immigration and customs formalities and we will change to our Armenian bus. Welcome to Armenia! Drive to the Haghpat Monastery, perched on the edge of the Debed Canyon. The monastery has UNESCO World Heritage status and the view alone with worth the visit. Built by Queen Khosrvanuch in 976, it is a splendid architectural monument in a spectacular natural setting. Also visit another UNESCO site - the Sanahin Monastery. Overnight in Alaverdi. (B/L)

Nov 4: Check out from the hotel and continue your Armenia trip from Alaverdi, Vanadzor to Dilijan (visit Haghartsin and Goshavank Monasteries in Dilijan -magnificent and beautiful ecclesiastic monuments which are the highlight of the medieval Armenian architecture. Continue to Lake Sevan. Visit the peninsula and enjoy your lunch here - fresh fish from sweet waters of the lake! Spend some time exploring the wild nature and sunshine as well as visit 9th c AD Sevan Monastery. Head to the hotel and check in for overnight in spa town Tsakhkadzor. (B/L/D) 

Nov 5: Check out after breakfast at the hotel. We depart for and Noravank (UNESCO World Heritage Site) and Khor Virap via the famous Selima Pass - one of the main junctions on the Great Silk Route. We will stop to visit the caravanserai recorded as best preserved of its kind, the gather place for travelers along the Silk Road where they could re-supply, exchange news and information, and rest from their long journey. We will have a picnic lunch near the monastery of Noravank, known for its architecture and dramatic setting. Continue on to Yerevan with an optional visit to a local winery en-route to the capital. Arrive in Yerevan; check in at the hotel. Free evening and overnight at the hotel. (B/L) 

Nov 6: Today we will have a full day of sightseeing around Yerevan, Armenia's capital. Yerevan is a diverse city with a very intense cultural life. There are dozens of theaters, museums, concert halls, galleries, and live music clubs. People are relaxed and go at relaxed pace. The city itself has a history dating back to 782 BC, and its past is as diverse as the present. Visit Matenadaran, the repository of ancient Armenian manuscripts (UNESCO World Heritage Sight). Lunch will be at a local restaurant, then continue your tour to Etchmiatsin, the Vatican of the Holy Armenian Apostolic Church, and Surb Hripsimeh Martyria Church. Free evening for independent activities and optional dinner. (B/L) 

Nov 7: After breakfast depart for a full day tour to Ashtarak to visit the Saghmosavank (1215) and Ohannavank (1216-1221) Monasteries as well as the Byurakan/Amberd Fortress (weather permitting). Both monasteries perch on the edge of the precipitous gorge of the Kasakh river. The book repository of Saghmosavank, built in 1255 under Prince Kurd Vachutyan is among Armenia's buildings rare in their purpose and original in their composition. Amberd Fortress is on the slopes of Mt. Aragats at 2300 meters above sea level. It was built during the 11th to 13th centuries. (B/L)

Nov 8: This morning we will visit Garni Temple, the only survivor witness of Hellenistic period in the history of the country. Dedicated to the goddess of Sun Mihr (Mythra) it dates back to the first century, AD. We then continue our excursion and visit Geghard Monastery (UNESCO Heritage Sight), named after the lance that pierced Christ's side at the crucifixion. The spear was once housed there but now resides at Etchmiatsin. Lunch will be hosted by a local family in Garni. Return to Yerevan and visit one of the most fascinating museums - the History Museum. Return to hotel for brief rest before farewell dinner. (B/L/D) 

Nov 9: Group transfer to the airport for final departure (breakfast is served from 7:00 AM). (B)
End of services.

Armenia - Post by a recent tour participant

This was sent in by Julius W. who went on our April tour to the Caucasus, including Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia. Thank you Julius for sharing!

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A small group of 10 of us recently returned from Caravan Serai’s tour through the Caucasus- Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia.  What an incredible time!  Caravan Serai organized a very fascinating and educational tour through the former Soviet Union.  It was amazing to tour many of the scenic places in the region and learn about these countries on a historical, political, religious, and cultural level.

One of the many highlights included visiting the Mother of Armenia monument at Victory Park in Yerevan, Armenia.  It was erected in 1967 to replace a statue of Joseph Stalin and is made entirely of copper.  This pride of Armenia symbolizes peace through strength and stands tall with a sword and shield, overlooking the city.  Our group picture is taken here, with a view of the capital in the background (one tourist is not pictured).

 Our next stop was a visit to the Tsitsernakaberd Armenian Genocide memorial, which was completed in 1965.  This visit was exceptional because the national day of remembrance for the holocaust happened during our time there.  Thousands rallied at the site during the holiday.

 Armenians continued to visit the site throughout the week.  The site was beautiful decorated, notably with a tall building and a circular monument next to it.  An eternal flame was installed at the very center of the circular monument, in remembrance of the 1.5 million victims who died in the Armenian genocide.  As we got closer, our senses were overcome by the strong floral aroma from the circular wall of flowers. 

  

Many visited and paid their respects with prayers and pictures.  Many parents lifted their children to lay flowers and see the eternal flame.  I tip-toed just high enough to take a picture of the flame.  This was both tragic and beautiful but an important part of learning about Armenia’s history.

Caravan Serai’s unique combination of tour experience, knowledgeable tour guides, and well-designed itineraries really came together to produce a great tour.  I’d recommend this tour for anyone who has a thirst for culture, history, and good food!

Caucasus Tour Map!

If you are interested in the places we will be visiting on our tour to Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia, check out this map. I have tagged the locations with corresponding itinerary descriptions. Enjoy!

Caucasus Tour Map

For more details on the tour including pricing and inclusions go here: Caucasus Tour Info