Last day in Oman

Sorry for the long delay in getting this posted! We have been busy at the office getting ready for our next tours coming up - Iran, the Caucasus, a private group going to Morocco, clients on independent tours to Turkey, Israel, Lebanon, and more. And Maha is in Egypt right now - I have a post from her that is going to be entered next! - Brenda

Monday March 12th

Today is the last day in Muscat and there is a lot to do and see before we leave.  We start out early this morning at 7:30am and go straight to the Big Mosque, built by his Royal Highness Sultan Qaboos.  It is about a 20 minute drive from our hotel.  The rules to go into the mosque are more restrictive than most.  Before getting on to the property of the mosque, women need to have their arms, legs, and hair completely covered.  No hair showing at all, no short sleeves - the sleeve of your shirt need to come down to your wrist.  Once you get to the door and the guard sees that hair or skin is showing he is able to turn you away.

The mosque is beautiful but not elaborately ornate.  The dome is made from gold and the marble has been brought in from Italy. The mosque can accommodate 20,000 people at one time.  The carpet was made in Iran and weighs over 27 tons, and covers the floor of the prayer room. The driver, who is Yemeni, said he prayed there only once since he kept looking around at everything that was there and you should not do that when praying.  

 I had a discussion with some of the guides outside the mosque while the group toured around, asking them questions about marriage, etc.  There is no civil marriage in Oman, most Omanis do marry someone from their own country.  A couple of drivers knew Omanis that went out of the country and fell in love but with other Arabs in Morocco or Syria, etc.

They talked about watching TV and seeing the American stations and how families lived, and about divorce and the fighting and what happens to the kids.  This is the impression they have of us.  The discussion went on about the age of the person when they get married is about 18 for the girl and older for the man.  If he finds a younger girl he is interested in he will tell his family and they will talk to her family and say they are interested but will wait until she is old enough for the marriage.  The average price that is given is 4,000 riyals and it can go up depending on the family wealth, but it will not be less.  If for some reason the woman wants to get a divorce and is able to prove he is not good or something they will get divorced and she or her family will need to repay 50 percent of the price they were given.

When the group came back I discussed this with them and they asked questions, it was a good conversation. After the visit to the mosque we were rushed to the port for dolphin watching. We drove to the Marina to embark on a search for dolphins and we found them - beautiful coastline and clear blue waters with a variety of fish and other sea life here.  

Oman is a blend of the old and new and it has done very well with the architecture incorporating all of this.  While on the sea we were able to see the city skyline and also the rugged mountain range that come right to he city walls. The city builders built right next to the mountains so you have the jagged mountains blended with the Islamic architecture of white stucco buildings.

We went after this to the Bai Al Zubai museum which shows you the traces of Omani history and development.  I remember the first time I came here, it was about 10 ears ago, and there was a small city and the center was near the marina and the fish markets- now it has spread so wide and far, and a bigger population, and new industries.

Took the group to the souk, which is ok but it is mostly run by Indians and Pakistanis, rather than Omanis.  If you have traveled in the Middle East before you will be somewhat disappointed with the markets here – they are not like Syria, Egypt, or even Turkey, but for the first time visitor it is a good introduction to bargaining and seeing the buildings of the covered souks and the small alley ways. There are a lot of different buildings and some old homes inside, and you do need to wander around to see them. 

Still one more visit to a hotel before we leave for the airport.  We were invited to the Grand Hyatt and also had a hosted dinner at the property- very nice and upscale.  They tried to incorporate Middle Eastern design and also North African in this place.  They had a meeting of Ministers so a metal detector was brought in to check people at the door, otherwise Muscat is a very safe city and this is not normal to have these in the hotels - first time that we saw this in Oman and also in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

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It is 2:30am and our driver and guide are downstairs to take the group to the airport. This is still the old airport but there are plans on the walls of what they are planning to do for a future airport.  The flight is 45 minutes only to Dubai and then you get to this incredible new airport with masses of people from all nationalities and so many different languages being spoken.  It is a huge shopping mall - everything you heart can want is available - almost too much that you just want to find a spot to hang out in and get away from the mobs.

Our flight is almost empty we have only 82 reservations in economy class and a full business class - I decided to spread out on the four middle seats and just sleep. The 15 hour flight to Seattle was not as bad as I thought since I was able to relax.  One of the people in the group mentioned that each flight attendant was more beautiful then the next.  It seems that we are back in the days of PanAm, where you had to be a certain size and look and weight, etc. They were all so pleasant and so accommodating to the passengers.  Also, the trip back had a number of languages spoken - I think it was about 8.  Now to sleep and I will wake up in beautiful Seattle.  I was told it snowed there so I am looking forward to the cold after the heat of the Arabian Peninsula.

A Poem about our Tour of Saudi Arabia

This poem was written by one of our participants on our tour of Saudi Arabia, which just returned home last week. Thank you! 

 

A trip of a lifetime for all of us..........

Encompassed the sites of Saudi by bus!

 

Maneuvering the abaya was a challenge to be seen...

Especially in squat toilets and if you know what I mean!

 

The scarves were a blessing on a bad hair day

But more important kept the mutawa's at bay

 

From Riyadh to Najran we arrived by plane

All of our friends thought we were totally insane

 

Yalla Yalla was one mantra early each morn

"Delightful Dawi proudly shared where he was born"

 

With warm hospitality and led us to very awesome sites

 stunning and thrilling in a myriad of different lights

 

With a naughty boy laugh and a gleem in his eyes he taught us where ancient civilizations lies

 

We photographed many magnificent carvings in the rocks but "Oh my Allah" the sand in our socks

 

Being so close to the Yemen border was sad

For it could have been another country to add

 

The souks were enticing for all that we sought

spices and fragrances were mostly bought ( and a much needed warm coat)

 

The site of Qraya an archeological dig of all of the trip highlights that was quite big

 

The markets for camels and goats were fun

We envisioned the caravans enduring the sun

 

We were escorted by police that monitor our time

Of course I had to include that in this dumb rhyme

 

It really is a mans world here

Womens liberation is unheard of - I fear

 

Kabsa is a delish Saudi meal

yet eating with our hands we couldn't get the feel

 

Such a vast history of remnants of past

How special for us that it has lasted

 

So lucky we are to have experienced it

In our hearts the memories will always sit

 

Thank you "our remarkable Rita" for giving us this wonderful opportunity that opened our eyes to Saudi - a beautiful land

Trip to Yemen

Here another entry from one of our Yemen 2010 tour participants -Thanks Pam!

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First of all you must conquer fear in order to go to Yemen to truly enjoy the trip. Friends were most concerned about this trip and many asked if my financial affairs were current. Nevertheless, I decided that I really wanted to go to Yemen and would not let negative thoughts dissuade me. I was amply rewarded for this decision. This was probably the best trip I ever took--the country, sights, food were amazing. The people of Yemen were most welcoming.

The tour was excellent giving us time to travel thoughout many regions of Yemen and enjoy the architecture. Frankly the afternnon at Shibam, the Manhattan of the Desert was undoubtedly one of the best, most intriguing places I have ever seen--and I have travelled throughout the world for over 30 years. Shibam was almost mystical especially at sunset.

The food was also a surprise--very fresh: salads, bread (terrific), goat, camel, beef, lamb and chicken (no pork of course). A lot of times for lunch we would stop at places along the highway where the locals eat. Shopping for souvenirs was also fun--that much room to bargain but the silver and other trinkets were well worth getting along with the local honey. After experiencing such dining and shopping experiences, I must say that the US stores and restaurants are boring.

But the real prize in Yemen was its people. Throughout Yemen we were constantly amazed that people were so welcoming and friendly. We had opportunities to talk to women (men and women are segregated and do not socialize together) as well as getting the benefit of a talk by a Yemeni analyst, Abdul Ghani Iryani, used by the western news media. We are not getting half the story in the US as Yemen and the Middle East are much more complicated than what is presented in the news media now.

Did I personally feel in danger. No. But it is advisable if contemplating this trip that you choose a specialist in Middle Eastern travel. Fortunately Rita is extraordinarly well connected and savvy and I would not hesitate in recommending her for any future trip to Yemen or to other Middle Eastern countries. We had police with us at certain points in our travels but they in no way interfered with our enjoyment and provided security for those who needed it. I do not want to mitigate Yemen's very really problems that are well known to anyone who reads the papers but the news media misses the beauty of the country and the resilience of its people.

I do feel that I was personally extremely privileged to be on this trip and met in albeit a very limited fashion the Yemeni people. The people are the tour--seven including me--were all very adaptable to any schedule changes and needless to say quite well travelled. The other best thing about this trip is realizing that I could overcome unreasoning fear and be rewarded with a most fascinating and intriguing destination--Yemen.

Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners

Below is a message we received from our coordinator in Yemen.

Dear Friends,
For some of us it’s been a while since we last wrote. We, at Al Mamoon, hope this email finds you well.

The last facts in Yemen have somehow put a distance through us. Our correspondence has slowed down and, at the end, from both sides we let silence accompany our days. Along with the dreadful news. This email is not a marketing tool and has nothing to do with our business relation. This is just an informative email to tell you that the population in Yemen is not silent. Least, passive.

Last week the Tourism Union joint hands with the Yemeni population, hotel personnel, tourism professionals in an unprecedented rally to say no to terrorism, no to innocent killings, no to violence.

Under a boiling sun, people stood with banners and flyers. Under a boiling sun, people cried their disgust to the last happenings. Under a boiling sun, people humbly moved to the German Embassy to bring flowers and pay respect. Under a boiling sun common people, soldiers, professionals and dignitaries shared their will to protect Yemen and its visitors.

We were there. And we found our friends: the guides, the drivers, colleagues of other tour operators and our next door neighbors.

Yemen hits the headline news only for the tragedies. Last week Reuters, Al Jazeera, Al Arabya and plenty of journalists were with us. Where is the news?

Attached you will find the chronicle of a touching day (Yemen Observer, 30 June). We retyped it for you.

Love and peace to all of you.

Your friends in Yemen,
Yahia, Mona and Beatrice
the Staff of Sam City Hotel
the Staff of Europcar
the Staff of Land of Two Paradise Hotel
the Guides and Drivers

****************************************************

YEMEN OBSERVER
Yemen Observer is the link between reader and news. It is the source of exclusive news, presenting facts objectively in a professional manner.
It provides the most comprehensive and accurate information for the world
Tuesday - June 30, 2009 ISSUE 52


Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners


Demonstration march under the scorching sun to the German Embassy to pay tribute to the families of the murdered foreigners. The tragic kidnapping has united all factions of Yemeni society in solidarity; condemning all acts of terrorism.


By Zaid al-Alaya'a & Mohammed al-Qiri
Yemen Observer
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Hundreds of demonstrators representing Parliaments, travel and tourism agencies, and civil society organization marched today from al-Sab'aeen to the German Embassy to express solidarity with the kidnapped, denouncing kidnapping and terrorism. Demonstrators carried signs that condemn terrorism, killing, and kidnapping of tourists, which harms society as a whole and affects investment, development, and Yemen's image and relations with other countries. The demonstration organized by the Yemeni Union for Travel and Tourism Agencies, issued a statement that expressed deep condolences to the families of the murdered Germans and Korean. Yahya Mohammed Abdullah Saleh, chairman of the union, called on all citizens to help security authorities to put the perpetrators of murder and kidnapping to justice to get the punishment that they deserve.

"Those criminals are not targeting any people or system in particular, but they are targeting the country at large and have support from foreign forces that want to harm Yemen and stop its development," said Yahya.

He said that terrorism has no religion and no country, and that only people with deviant behavior practice terrorism. This rally that we organized today will submit a letter expressing our condolences to the German and South Korean Embassies.

"First of all, I would like to convey the deep condolences of all participants to the victims of terrorism, targeting doctors working in Sa'adah and all other victims of terrorist attacks that target tourists and foreigners working in Yemen," said Yahya. The attacks also resulted in deaths among Yemenis who have done nothing wrong but were present during the terrorist attacks.

"In this parade I call on the government to consider the murdered foreigners in Sa'adah as martyrs of duty in recognition of the great medical services they have provided to the people of Sa'adah in a period of more that 35 years," said Yahya. He also said that rally comes in solidarity with the Yemeni public, the first ones to be harmed by these terrorist attacks. The attacks aim to shake Yemen's economy, security, and stability and bar any investment or tourists from coming to Yemen.

"We are working to develop Yemen but terrorists have an outside, or maybe inside, agenda that wants the country to move backwards. These terrorists do not realize that they are harming the country at large, not just a few in particular," said Yahya. Yemen is not the property of any party or any group. It is for all Yemenis at large and every citizen has to defend it. The first victims of terrorist attacks are the public, development, security, stability but not authorities as terrorists are trying to show.

More than 55% of tourism programs in Yemen were cancelled as a result of recent terrorists' attacks; many other sectors like hotels, handicraft shops, car rental, and many other sectors have suffered great losses as a result of this more than 300,000 families, or around two million people, benefit from tourism and have suffered greatly since the recent terrorists attacks. Terrorists who dare to commit such acts have no morals, no feelings, and only aim to defame the reputation of Yemen. Security and the army can not protect the country's stability alone, but all citizens and all people in Yemen have to stand against any calls for violence. Citizens of Sa'adah have to report to the authorities with any information that can lead to the whereabouts of the kidnapped.

Abdu al-Hothefi, MP Head of the tourism Committee in Parliament, said that these acts do not belong to Yemeni Culture that has always been, and will always be, tolerant and peaceful. The demonstrators walked to the premises of the German Embassy and presented flowers and a statement from the organizers and participants to show their condemnation of the murders and kidnapping, calling upon Yemeni security forces to hunt down the terrorists and kidnappers.
"I call on all people in Yemen at large to stand against all destructive forces in Yemen that aim to distort the image of Yemen, its economy, stability and security. Tourism is one of the main source of revenues for the country and the source of income to a large number of people in Yemen, but such acts deprive a lot of people of their means of living.

We all have to work to protect this industry and take strict measures against all those who try to harm this sector," said al-Hothefi. MP Osman Mujali said, "We denounce this behavior which contradicts Yemen's traditions. This country is known for honoring guests and welcoming all people, but unfortunately this is a terrorist act which is supported by terrorists and damages the country's reputation, security, and economy."

Mo'mar al -Eryani, the General Yemeni Youth condemn this cowardly act that targets not only the foreigners, but all Yemenis and the country in general. The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Abdul-Jabbar Saeed, said that they demand that the authorities track down all criminals and terrorists and refer them immediately to justice to face the penalty for their crimes.
The Children's parliament Member Safa al-Watari, said "There are people who devote themselves to hostility because they are far from principles and are deprived of humanitarian values and ethics. They have used the children as a way to express the malice and hatred hidden inside them, seeking to destroy the children's future." She said that she calls upon the government and all parties to punish those who use children to carry out their subversive agendas for damaging the community's stability.

Beatrice de Filippis of al-Mamoon Intl. Tours said that her heart is broken twice, as a European she stands in solidarity with the Europeans, while her heart also cries for Yemenis because these actions affect the reputation of Yemen in the rest of the world. She went on saying, "I am a European woman working in a humanitarian field, trying to defend the Yemeni people who were described by their prophet as kind hearted people." Miss Fillippis added that those people who committed these actions are not normal people, but people who are against all laws and rules.
Airline representative Fahd al-Ariqi said that the airlines are the sector most affected by these terrorist actions, leading to decrease in airline passenger numbers and trips.