Rita's Interview With Local NBC Affiliate

Rita was interviewed this morning by King 5 News, the local NBC affiliate, about the situation in Syria and her up-coming mission to Jordan to help the refugees. She will be traveling with a group of doctors including surgeons, spinal care specialists, cardiac specialists, mental health specialists, and others who will be there to assess the long term needs of the refugees, particularly the children.

You can watch the interview here:

http://www.king5.com/video/featured-videos/Lending-aid-to-Syrian-refugees-188058821.html

You can donate to help the refugees and read more about the aid that Rita has been organizing for them at the Salaam Cultural Museum website.

The History of Syrian & Armenian Cuisine

To understand Syrian cuisine as it developed in Aleppo, a little history is necessary. Aleppo is ancient, but its roots are buried beneath a very modern city. Legend has it that the prophet Abraham paused in Aleppo to milk his cows on Citadel Hill, thus came its Arabic name Halab, which means "milk." It is one of Syria's principle cities and the second largest after Damascus. Located in northwest Syria, it borders on Turkey and is at the crossroads of great and historic commercial routes, only sixty miles from the Mediterranean Sea and the Euphrates River. Aleppo lies along the Baghdad-Istanbul railway and is linked by rail with Damascus and Beirut, Lebanon. With road connections to Damascus, Latakia, and Antioch, Turkey it is a natural gateway to Asia.

Common ingredients such as pomegranate, nuts, onions, herbs, and spices are used in this  spread.

The old city of Aleppo is centered around and dominated by a twelfth-century citadel where the ancient souks, or bazaars, are found. They run along narrow and winding streets and virtually everything from spices and silks to brass are sold in these precursors to modern shopping malls.

The city was originally laid out in walled districts entered via babs or doors. Different groups, such as Jews and Armenians, lived in these distinct quarters. Though no longer segregated residential entities, these areas are still known by their ethnic names. The overwhelming majority of Aleppians are Muslim, but Christians, Jews, Turks and Armenians have had a say in the life of the city for centuries. While some group rivalries exist, it is not unusual to find churches and mosques abutting one another in Syria's major cities.

Travelers in Syria quickly realize that the people are multilingual, diverse and very much aware of the diversity around them. In the crossroads that is Aleppo, this is particularly true. Like Damascus, it is filled with many foreigners, tourists, and refugees. The Ottoman occupation of Syria, Lebanon, Greece, and Armenia supplied a context for tolerance and sharing, giving Aleppians a commonality of food, albeit in slightly different forms and presentations. When we hear baklava, for example, we think of Greece, but it is also a Syrian pastry called batlawa. Over time, the string cheese brought to Syria by the Armenians became known as Halabi cheese or the cheese of Aleppo because that is where so many of these refugees settled.

Armenian string cheese.

 Syria has an estimated 300,000 (although numbers vary a lot with some authors put the number at 800,000) ethnic Armenians. This is the largest Armenian community outside Armenia and Russia. Armenians were present within or around the northern borders of Syria since ancient times. The ancient Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia occupied the north western parts of greater Syria. This kingdom was part of the region historical and political landscape. It was involved in all the major events of the area from Mongols, Crusaders, Turks and Ayyobid wars. The Armenians established few towns in Greater Syria like Urfa and Aintab. These towns are in modern day Turkey and with virtually no Armenians left. The kingdom finally fell under the control of Mamluks rule and the Armenian population numbers in Syria dwindled gradually as most of them either immigrated to Cyprus or lived under Ottoman Turkey north of the Syrian border. The only town in modern Syria with an original Armenian population is Kassab in the north west of the country, with an Armenian presence estimated to be 1000 years old.

Most of the current Armenians in Syria today came during the Armenian genocide at the turn of the twentieth century. Tens of thousands of Armenians were forced out of their villages by the Ottomans and taken to the edge of the Syrian desert near Deir Az'Zor were they were killed and buried in mass graves. Armenians who fled the genocide came to Aleppo and other cities in northern Syria where they were given refuge and protected from the slaughter. From there they spread to the rest of Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Egypt, Cyprus and Greece, and with them spread their culture and their cuisine which is incorporated into all walks of life in northern Syria mostly, and then from there into Turkey and Lebanon. 

Update from Rita on the situation in Aleppo

I talked to family again today in Aleppo to see how they were doing.  They were telling me that we don't even hear half the news of what is happening in the city.

Some of the hospitals are open - the public ones and also the private hospitals - but they do not have enough doctors that are working in them.  One of the reasons is that doctors have been singled out by the government for helping the other side. They have been targeted, so the ones that could leave have left to the US or Canada with their families. Some have come back to the region and are working in the border towns if they can.

I asked them if someone had to go to the hospital as an emergency is that possible? They say yes, but you still need to go through a lot of check points and you are not sure who is manning each check point.  If you tell them you are going to the hospital you will be interrogated to find out why, what happened, etc- so you might be there for a couple of hours explaining and the person you are taking could be dying.  If you get hurt by a sniper and are taken in by a relative or a friend the same thing will happen but it can get worst since they will want to know where you were when it happened and why you were there and whose side are you on, etc.

My cousin was telling me that about 1/2 million residents of Aleppo are displaced and living either with friends or family, in the streets, or in front of buildings.  They had to leave their homes since they were in areas of bombing and they wanted to protect their families.  They now have a hard time in returning.  There is still about 80% of the population of Aleppo still in their homes in the area outside the center in the newer areas of the city.  Pretty much the old part of the city, the Christian quarter, and the Armenia quarter have all been hit and people have moved out of there.  The old homes that had been redone as hotels for tourism are being used by the rebel forces as strongholds, so these historic hotels get targets and an immense amount of destruction has taken place.

The historic Baron Hotel has been hit hard. The tourist hotel in the middle of downtown and the Amira hotel have been destroyed.  The stories of destruction in the old quarter go on and on.  These are the parts of the city that so much money had been spend on to rebuild the old Islamic structures and get the vibrant part of the old city going again, and now they are in ruins.  Aleppo was part of a project that has been going on for years to preserve old Islamic buildings. The architects that were working on this have received numerous awards for their work.  One of them is my ex-husband, and I am so sorry that this is happening since he and so many people had put so much time and blood and tears to do this work and now in just 18 months most of it has been destroyed.  It will never go back to the way it was.  It will be rebuilt like Beirut was after its civil war and most of it will be high rises, but where will the people be and how will they be emotional and physically?  The traumatic effects of war on any person is long lasting and the worst effect is on the children who will be the new generation that will be running this country- how much hate and grief will they have?  How long will the memories last? Look at what Hafiz the father of Bashar did back in the mid 70's and 80's and the destruction of Hama - those are the people now that are fighting Bashar since they remember their parents, brothers and sisters, etc that were killed, where in one day Hafez came and destroyed Hama and killed 20,000 people.
Rita Zawaideh

Report on Syrian Crisis

I talked to a friend of my daughter today that lives in Aleppo, Zuka. We are trying to convince her to leave, but she says she can't go by herself and leave her family behind.  She is the only one in the family that has a passport.  Even with a war going on you need to have a passport and also ID cards to leave the country and get into another country.  If you have a passport you can go into the city and not into a refugee camp.  She says she can't have her family stay in the camps they have too many problems and too many people.

She is also the only one in the family that is still getting a salary – she was working for ICARDA (International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Regions) and they are paying everyone until January. This is really good news, otherwise she and a lot of other young people would not have any money to live on for themselves and their families.  After 18 months of war, people are running out of money.  Just think if a natural disaster happened here and all banks closed and no ATM's worked, would you have enough cash to live on and for how long? I think most people in the US only keep enough for maybe for one week, if that!

This evening there was a program on 60 Minutes regarding Syria and the reporter states "the only people in the city of Aleppo are the poor".  I am sorry to state that she is very wrong and I will be writing to her.  There are the elderly and the middle class and also the handicapped that have not been able to leave and also a lot of people that did not believe that it would go to this extent and thought they might be able to hold on, but now they are stuck and not able to leave their homes due to snipers, road closures and not sure when the airports are open or not.  The cost of a plane ticket one way from Aleppo to Jordan is $800 and even more to Cairo.  There are only a few airlines that are still going into the country.

A doctor from Ohio, a Syrian-American just returned from a few days in Amman on a fact finding mission- he took a suitcase full of medicine with him and said that he will be doing this about twice a month.  He will leave on a Friday arrive on a Saturday and then return back to the US on a Monday.  He is very committed and wants to help in any way possible.  He came back and told me that the items that are really needed are:
1.  Hygiene kits for the women - purchasing in Jordan for $14
2.  School kit for children - purchasing in Jordan for $12
3.  Adult diapers - not sure of prices
4. Blankets for the winter

Salaam Cultural Museum and Caravan-Serai have joined forces with Disaster Training International and the Syrian American Association of Washington (SAAWA) to collect donations for these items.  We have Father Samir Abulail, a Jordanian from Irbid, that is leaving on the 1st of November and he will be taking the money back and purchasing the items through a wholesaler that we know there to get as much as we can for the money he will have with him.

If anyone wants to make a donation you are able to earmark what you want us to purchase with your funds and we will take note of that.

We want to thank you all for your concern and your emails about family and friends and also your guides that you had when you traveled there.  We are hoping that this will not keep on, but it looks like a very long fight and one that is not easy to resolve.

We are working on getting a fact finding group to go over about the end of November.  We are planning to include a therapist, trauma specialist, speech therapist, and a doctor from here to go and do our own research.  We will keep you all apprised of the situation.

Destruction of the Souk in Aleppo

This post was written by Rita, who spent many years living in Aleppo.

This is the souk I remember in Aleppo.  When I live there I was in this place daily for my regular shopping.  I would go and sit with the merchants and talk to them and just have a great time and also talk to the tourist as they were coming in.  During those days they were mostly British, French, and Italian, and only a few Americans.  Then after I moved from Aleppo and came back to the US and opened Caravan-Serai Tours I would take people on the tours to one of my favorite places - the souk - to get their olive oil soaps and their spices and then some other things that they wanted.  This was not a tourist market this was a market that the locals would use so you saw all different kinds of people in all different modes of attire. I have talked to my spice man who I used for over 20 years and he is safe and at home with his family, but his shop is no longer there.  This was a shop that was owned by his great-great-grandfather and was passed down through the family.  This was a man that would tell me not to put the cinnamon next to the pepper since it would drink the smell away and it would be overpowered by the cinnamon - do not put your dry mint next to your saffron since everything will then smell like mint, etc, etc.  This was a part of my life and history so you can imagine what he is going through and what the Syrian people are going through that were so proud of their city.

The souk now has been burned by both the rebel forces and the military.  The rebels had taken refuge inside the souk and then the firing started between the different groups. The reports are stating about 1500 shops have been burned, since the doors that the shop keepers had were all made of wood. The market dates back about 2500 years ago.  It stood up to all kinds of foreign invasions over the centuries, earthquakes, but not the powerful tools of war of the 21st century.

I talked to Faez in Aleppo to see how they were all doing, he said “how do you think we are doing- we are listening to the news ad hearing what they have done to the old city. The destruction of one of the Old World Heritage Sites is something hard for us to accept.  We have 7 different Old Heritage Sites in this area and all have taken some sort of damage.”  I said, “I know, and I want to cry - what can we do?” He says to tell people to talk to their government officials and try and get this to stop. Get the foreign soldiers out of the country.  Let just the Syrians handle this.  The foreign soldiers and the others that are trying to help are not helping.  We have foreign mercenaries that have nothing to lose by burning these ruins and raping and abusing the children- this is a war and they are being paid.

We need to get the different sides to sit and talk and negotiate peace- this is something that can't keep going on - a solution is needed immediately.

This is what the souk is looking like now.  Syria is in need of foreign intervention.

I also, talked to Alaa in Damascus today and he says it is relatively ok there - way better than in Aleppo. His kids are going to school and the businesses are open, but that is for now.

You can see that both the government and the rebels are going from one area and destroying that and then moving on.  We saw that in Homs and in Hama that are pretty much ghost towns at this point.  We can't say this will be happening to Aleppo.  The museum in Palmyra has been destroyed and the artifacts have been stolen.  For a lot of you that used to travel with us to Syria I have been told that the young men that would sell us the jewelry, tablecloths, scarves etc. while at the sites are now gone and have joined the FSA.  Some have taken their families across the border to Jordan, walking thru the desert for days to get to the camps.  They do not have their documentation so they have to sneak into the country.

There is talk today that Jordan might have to close its borders to deal with the refugees they have if they are not able to get international aid for them. We are asking for your help.  Please forward these emails to friends and other people that you know that are worried or care for human lives and helping the children of the region.

We thank you for reading and listening.

~Rita

Syria Update, September 29, 2012

Syria Update, September 29, 2012 (Institute of Middle Eastern, Islamic and Strategic Studies. By Sherifa Zuhur)

Death toll: More than 94

Friday’s revised death toll: More than 160 including 104 unarmed civilians.

A report from Medicins sans Frontieres (Doctors Without Borders) from Syria:
http://www.doctorswithoutborders.org/news/article.cfm?id=6324&cat=voice-from-the-field

Aleppo province: A major fire engulfed the medieval markets, a tourist attraction in the city of Aleppo sparked by clashes between the Syrian military and the opposition. Many shops were destroyed and some were still burning this morning. http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/09/29/syria-crisis-idUSL5E8KT1VJ20120929?type=marketsNews

Clashes between the Syrian military and the opposition took place in the neighborhoods of Bab Antaya, al-Itha’a, Karm al-Beik, al-Kura al-Ardiyya, the al-Jandoul roundabout, al-Midan, al-Sakhour, Tariq al-Bab, and near the al-Nayrab military airport. Mortars fired at the airport damaged 2 helicopters. Clashes also occurred near the al-Madfa’iyya artillery school and a building nearby was shelled by the opposition and then burned. Shelling on Karam al-Jabal killed three persons. A sniper shot a civilian in Sleiman al-Halabi.

The Syrian military shelled the towns of Anadan, Hreitan, Kafar Hamra and Tell Rifa`at.

Damascus province: Tonight it was reported that the Syrian military were carrying out arbitrary raids and arrests in the al-Qadam neighborhood. Many have fled the area of Barzeh due to raids by the Syrian military and clashes there. The opposition attacked a Syrian military checkpoint in al-Asali, killing 2 Syrian military troops.

Eight persons were summarily executed in al-Qudsiyya. The Syrian military executed five people in the town of Maaraba. The Syrian military executed 15 people in the town of al-Baytariyya. Heavy clashes took place in the town of al-Hjeira. The Syrian military heavily shelled the town of Artouz and the town of Saqba, killing a man in Saqba.

Dara`a province: The Syrian military overran the Shamali neighborhood in the town of al-Mozeyrib, and surrounded the town. Many were killed in clashes in the area around the town and subsequently the opposition withdrew from Mozeyrib. Reportedly, an opposition IED attack on their bus, killed 15 Syrian military troops. Heavy clashes took place in Tafas, which like Mozeirab also came under heavy shelling. The Syrian military also shelled the al-Lijah area.

Deir az-Zur: The Syrian military heavily shelled the eastern districts of the city of Deir az-Zur today. The Syrian military stormed the neighborhoods of Jbeila and Ba’ajeen in the city of Deir az-Zur and carried out raids and arrests there.

The Syrian military bombarded the towns of al-Muhasan and al-Mre'iyya, causing injuries and damaging homes.

Hassakeh province: The Syrian military forces fired on civilians from checkpoints near the Masakin al-Zubbat (officers resiences) in the city of al-Qamishli, injuring civilians today.

Hama province: The Syrian military shelled the towns of Erfa and Rebda.

Homs province: Clashes raged between the opposition and the Syrian military and regime-backed militias near the villages of al-Ghasaniyya and al-Heidariyya. The Syrian military heavily shelled al-Rastan.

Idlib province: The villages of eastern Ma'arat al-Nu'man were shelled by the Syrian military and electricity has been cut off. The Syrian military shot a man from the area of Jisr al-Shughour. The Syrian military heavily shelled the town of Sarmin.

Latakia province: The opposition has learned that the Syrian state security branch in the city of Latakia detained Salim al-Rifa`i on the 20th of September, 2102 and charged him with being in contact with a terrorist organization, referring him on to Damascus. Al-Rifa`I is a humanitarian aid activist working with refugees and not a member of an armed group.

The Syrian military shelled the villages of Beit A’wan, Jabal al-Akrad, al-Khadra, al-Qneitra and Jabal al-Turkman. Heavy clashes took place in the village of al-Khadra.

Al-Raqqa province: The Hamam al-Turkman town of Reef al-Raqa was bombarded by regime forces, leading to several injuries.

Tartous province: The Syrian military have stormed through the Wata al-Bayda area in Banyas city carrying out raids and arrests.

Refugees: Syria’s refugees discuss their fear and their pain.
Photographs above and videos in the link below: http://www.sfgate.com/news/article/AP-VIDEO-Syrian-refugees-discuss-their-pain-fear-3905389.php
http://hosted.ap.org/interactives/2012/syria/

International: Ireland’s Tánaiste and Minister for Foreign Affairs Eamon Gilmore spoke to the United nations General Assembly last night and urged members of the UN Security Council to levy sanctions on the regime of Bashar al-Assad. He said the situation in Syria is “an affront to humanity” which requires a “clear and unrelenting” response. Delivering Ireland’s address to the UN General Assembly last night, http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/breaking/2012/0929/breaking1.html
Al-Arabiyya claims that secret documents show that the Syrian government executed two Turkish pilots who survived a crash on June 22, when their F-4 Phantom was shot down by Syrian military. http://english.alarabiya.net/articles/2012/09/29/240805.html

Report from Aleppo

Rita recently spoke with family members in Aleppo and her is what she heard from them:

I talked to family last night in Aleppo and they said this is the first time that they have had the shelling so close to home.  It is moving from the old city and the outskirts of Aleppo to the residential areas.  This is coming from both sides that are doing the shelling- we got the FSA that is working on the ground and then you have the Syrian military that is shelling from the air.  The people have no chance what so ever.

An aunt was able to get out and get to Turkey recently she hired a driver and the cost was $400 US per person to drive them the normally three hours to the border and this would take almost the whole day.  If you needed to take a car to Damascus the cost was even higher of $800 per person and then to get to Jordan by car it was $350.00.  As you can see with prices like this only a few are able to do that and others are walking to get out of the country if they can, carrying whatever they can take with them.  Usually it is food and some basic supplies and then things for the kids.

Like everything during the time of war inflation sets in and everything costs much more.  When talking to family they said they just leave the house to get some basic supplies that they need and come back home.  They are pretty much in their homes taking cover and listening to the radio or the government run TV station.  The other information they get is some thru internet, when they have electricity and then thru word of mouth of what is happening and what area of town not to go to and who has been killed recently.

The ones that are suffering the most from this are the children who will be growing up knowing only death and destruction and their parents or grandparent or siblings being killed and tortured.

It is so hard with the family so far away in war zones the airports are closed and there is no way out for now.  Medicine is running low and so are some basic food supplies, but they still have their spirits.

The news media has switched their attention to the anti-Islam movie and the violence that has caused, and are not really covering Syria and all the victims that are being killed on a regular basis.

Please do not forget Syria and its people.

To make a donation to help the Syrian refugees flooding into Jordan, click here.

More help needed for Syrian Refugees

Please see this update on the dire Syrian refugee situation in Jordan and the surrounding countries. Many of the refugees are being sheltered in schools, but the schools will be back in session soon and we don't know where the refugees are going to be able to go then.

Read more here at the Salaam Cultural Museum website. Salaam is collecting donations for the refugees, and 100% of what is collected (less credit card fees to the card processor) goes to help provide basic food and medical supplies.

Syria Refugee Update

This is from an email sent out by Rita today to update people about the situation in the refugee camps in Jordan.  If you would like to contribute please go to this website: Salaam Cultural Museum

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I want to thank all the people that have made donations so far for the Syria Refugees in Jordan.  Attached to this email are the items that are most needed by the refugees and to date the organization I am working with has been able to supply 19,500 people with these goods in the last 10 days.

Food Items

• Canned foods
• Bread
• Milk
• Iftar meal
• Jams
• Oil
• Rice
• Pasta
• Groats
• Sugar
• Olives
• Tea
• Cheese

Non Food Items

• Hygiene Kits
• Water and sanitation supplies
• Mattress & Cover
• Diapers
• Napkins
• Clothing
• Underwear
• Medicines
• Medical Supplies

To give you an idea the people that are working on the ground in Jordan are all volunteers, to date we have 200 people helping with this crisis.  At the present time we are working on the new arrivals that are coming in, but also with the urgent cases of young kids of all ages, especially the kids that are 1-6 months, 6 months to one year and then one year to 3 years, and others. 

The new arrivals are temporarily housed in a school or other temporary shelter until either they can get back to their homes in Syria or we can find them more permanent places to stay.  We are giving them basic food items and non-food items, and we have the volunteers receiving them in 24/7.

 

The money that is being used to help these families is coming in from donations from people like you. With the recent fighting that is taking place in Aleppo we are not sure how long this will be lasting.  The reports that are out as of today say over 200,000 people have left Syria.  Very few flights are going in or out of the country and the roads are too dangerous to be traveling on.  We have heard that the airport might be closed soon in both Aleppo and Damascus.  Some of the border crossings are open, but it really depends on the day and what fighting is going on for the security of the neighboring countries, they are not able to leave them open regularly.

We still urgently need your help.  Please if you can find it in your heart to help with any amount of money it would be appreciated.

To help follow the news for people that have been with us on trips, below is a map of the areas that are being hit in the north.   

When we arrive into Aleppo on our tours you will usually go thru the area of New Aleppo Salaheddin areas.  The areas of our hotels is in the Old City and Fardous regions which has some fighting , but very little hope this helps when listening to the news and the areas the army and rebels are in.

#Syrian #Refugees in #Jordan

Please visit the Salaam Cultural Museum's website to learn how you can help them help the ever growing numbers of refugees in Jordan. The needs of the people are outstripping what Jordan is able to provide, and they need help desperately.

Follow this link to their website: Salaam Cultural Museum

Thank you!

Last day in Oman

Sorry for the long delay in getting this posted! We have been busy at the office getting ready for our next tours coming up - Iran, the Caucasus, a private group going to Morocco, clients on independent tours to Turkey, Israel, Lebanon, and more. And Maha is in Egypt right now - I have a post from her that is going to be entered next! - Brenda

Monday March 12th

Today is the last day in Muscat and there is a lot to do and see before we leave.  We start out early this morning at 7:30am and go straight to the Big Mosque, built by his Royal Highness Sultan Qaboos.  It is about a 20 minute drive from our hotel.  The rules to go into the mosque are more restrictive than most.  Before getting on to the property of the mosque, women need to have their arms, legs, and hair completely covered.  No hair showing at all, no short sleeves - the sleeve of your shirt need to come down to your wrist.  Once you get to the door and the guard sees that hair or skin is showing he is able to turn you away.

The mosque is beautiful but not elaborately ornate.  The dome is made from gold and the marble has been brought in from Italy. The mosque can accommodate 20,000 people at one time.  The carpet was made in Iran and weighs over 27 tons, and covers the floor of the prayer room. The driver, who is Yemeni, said he prayed there only once since he kept looking around at everything that was there and you should not do that when praying.  

 I had a discussion with some of the guides outside the mosque while the group toured around, asking them questions about marriage, etc.  There is no civil marriage in Oman, most Omanis do marry someone from their own country.  A couple of drivers knew Omanis that went out of the country and fell in love but with other Arabs in Morocco or Syria, etc.

They talked about watching TV and seeing the American stations and how families lived, and about divorce and the fighting and what happens to the kids.  This is the impression they have of us.  The discussion went on about the age of the person when they get married is about 18 for the girl and older for the man.  If he finds a younger girl he is interested in he will tell his family and they will talk to her family and say they are interested but will wait until she is old enough for the marriage.  The average price that is given is 4,000 riyals and it can go up depending on the family wealth, but it will not be less.  If for some reason the woman wants to get a divorce and is able to prove he is not good or something they will get divorced and she or her family will need to repay 50 percent of the price they were given.

When the group came back I discussed this with them and they asked questions, it was a good conversation. After the visit to the mosque we were rushed to the port for dolphin watching. We drove to the Marina to embark on a search for dolphins and we found them - beautiful coastline and clear blue waters with a variety of fish and other sea life here.  

Oman is a blend of the old and new and it has done very well with the architecture incorporating all of this.  While on the sea we were able to see the city skyline and also the rugged mountain range that come right to he city walls. The city builders built right next to the mountains so you have the jagged mountains blended with the Islamic architecture of white stucco buildings.

We went after this to the Bai Al Zubai museum which shows you the traces of Omani history and development.  I remember the first time I came here, it was about 10 ears ago, and there was a small city and the center was near the marina and the fish markets- now it has spread so wide and far, and a bigger population, and new industries.

Took the group to the souk, which is ok but it is mostly run by Indians and Pakistanis, rather than Omanis.  If you have traveled in the Middle East before you will be somewhat disappointed with the markets here – they are not like Syria, Egypt, or even Turkey, but for the first time visitor it is a good introduction to bargaining and seeing the buildings of the covered souks and the small alley ways. There are a lot of different buildings and some old homes inside, and you do need to wander around to see them. 

Still one more visit to a hotel before we leave for the airport.  We were invited to the Grand Hyatt and also had a hosted dinner at the property- very nice and upscale.  They tried to incorporate Middle Eastern design and also North African in this place.  They had a meeting of Ministers so a metal detector was brought in to check people at the door, otherwise Muscat is a very safe city and this is not normal to have these in the hotels - first time that we saw this in Oman and also in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

----------------------------------------------------------------

It is 2:30am and our driver and guide are downstairs to take the group to the airport. This is still the old airport but there are plans on the walls of what they are planning to do for a future airport.  The flight is 45 minutes only to Dubai and then you get to this incredible new airport with masses of people from all nationalities and so many different languages being spoken.  It is a huge shopping mall - everything you heart can want is available - almost too much that you just want to find a spot to hang out in and get away from the mobs.

Our flight is almost empty we have only 82 reservations in economy class and a full business class - I decided to spread out on the four middle seats and just sleep. The 15 hour flight to Seattle was not as bad as I thought since I was able to relax.  One of the people in the group mentioned that each flight attendant was more beautiful then the next.  It seems that we are back in the days of PanAm, where you had to be a certain size and look and weight, etc. They were all so pleasant and so accommodating to the passengers.  Also, the trip back had a number of languages spoken - I think it was about 8.  Now to sleep and I will wake up in beautiful Seattle.  I was told it snowed there so I am looking forward to the cold after the heat of the Arabian Peninsula.

2011 Top Travel Specialist Award

PRESS RELEASE

November 28, 2011

Contact:          Brenda Pierce

Caravan-Serai Tours, Inc.

                        Brenda@caravan-serai.com

                        206-890-3852

                        3806 Whitman Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98103

For Immediate Release

Rita Zawaideh Named Top Travel Specialist for 9^th Year in a Row by Conde Nast Traveler

SEATTLE: Once again, Caravan-Serai Tours owner by Rita Zawaideh has received the prestigious honor of being named Top Travel Specialist from industry-leading Conde Nast Traveler magazine. 2011 marks the ninth consecutive year in which Rita has received this recognition. In an annual survey of travel specialists, the magazine lists “The Top Travel Specialists” developed after exhaustive interviews, reference checking, and recommendations from other industry insiders. Caravan-Serai Tours and owner Rita Zawaideh have been recognized for excellence and the depth and recent firsthand knowledge of the Middle East and North Africa, but particularly for the countries of Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan.

Also part of the equation is Rita's strong relationship with local contacts, the high level of client commitment, a willingness to work with a range of budgets, and discriminating taste. This year's listing and more details on how the list was prepared can be found in the December 2011 edition of the Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. 

Caravan-Serai provides expert travel services and tour organization to the Middle East and North Africa. The company caters to small and medium sized groups as well as independent travelers. All inclusive, tailor-made tours blend an educational and cultural experience with fun and adventure. Travel is the only way to bring people together and build bridges of understanding. 

Syria Not Ablaze

Hello Everyone: 1/28 Syria Not Ablaze

Traveling in Syria and elsewhere in the Arab world at this time is exciting and a deep learning experience. People in Aleppo (the second largest city) and Damascus are making references to the troubles in Tunisia and Egypt. We have been in Syria for the last week, but Seattleites' knowledge of events is as probably as good as mine, as information in Syria is restricted. I mostly have to rely on general impressionistic accounts and upon conversations with people who speak English. Nonetheless, there appear to be no troubles, demonstrations, etc. unfolding in the Syrian Arab Republic at this time. Life seems to be tranquil. The government has for some time blocked access to Facebook, My Space and You Tube. Yesterday, an English language paper in Damascus reported that all cell phone-accessed chat rooms would be blocked. The government is probably taking precautions no doubt, but it is a bit hard to read. We arrived in Amman, Jordan this afternoon, and went to an internet cafe, but discovered that their routing access had been cut off because of the troubles. But, I found another cafe that had access, for how long they don't know. I don't understand the mechanics of this.

I interviewed a couple of men extensively this week about the situation in Syria. Both men are educated, knowledgeable and fluent in English and have served in the military; one man is about 30, the other about 40, and the younger man is a graduate student in English at Damascus University. Both men said that the economic situation was very difficult and the availability of jobs, particualry for young people, is bleak. High food prices and general inflationary problems seemed to be the major concern of these two men, and I heard that from other people as well. Real unemployment is about 25%. The older of the two men I interviewed has been a hotel desk clerk for seventeen years and earns $150 per month, the same salary that he earned when he started there in 1994. He needs about $700 a month for his family to survive! The younger of these two men reported that, even if he gets a good job as a translator with the government, there is no chance that he will be able to afford to purchase a home. Both men also said that older people have vivid memories of the severe repression against the Muslim Brotherhood in the 1980s, when thousands and thousands of people were massacred, a chilling memory indeed. The English major said the university campus shows no signs of unrest. These two men believe that their government, although it has problems, is not like the governments in Tunisia or Egypt, and they are willing to give it time. Both men think that President Bashar al-Assad, whose portrait is ubiquitous, cares, is responsive and trying to address the problems of the country. However, both men, were very clear that the cost of living and jobs for young people would have to be addressed or future troubles may unfold. Yet, for the present Syrian nationalism appears to carry the day.

For now,

Kraig

New tour to Syria for 2011

September 6 - 16, 2011
Syria: The Cradle of Civilization
$3135 pp/do,land only

Join us for this in-depth look at Syria, the Cradle of Civilization. This tour will begin in Damascus, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. See ancient Roman cities near Damascus then head out across the desert to the trade route center of Palmyra. The tour then takes us to the banks of the Euphrates River to see the ancient civilation of Mari, which flourished in the third millenium BC, and other ancient trade route outposts. Continue along the river and then across the northern plains to Aleppo, another city with ancient roots and evidence of human habitation that goes back over 10,000 years. The city is named for a story of Abraham who stopped here to rest his flock of sheep. We will explore the city and the surrounding countryside with its beautiful Byzantine Churches then head south to Damascus to get a glimpse of the crusader history of this country. A day trip to the magnificent Roman ruins at Baalbeck in Lebanon is also included.

Levantine Adventure Comments

Below are comments sent to us by a participant in our most recent Levantine Adventure Tour. Thank you!

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My husband Bill and I travelled to Jordan , Syria and Lebanon on a Levantine Adventure trip sponsored by Caravan- Serai. We also did an extension to Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Oman. This trip proved to be a trip of discovery, enlightenment and a sensitivity to other cultures and faiths.

Since 9/11 I have had many misconceptions about the Middle East, mainly because of what I have read and heard on the news. I was prepared to meet with some hostility since I was not wearing a hijab or abaya.

Bill and I did not meet with any hostility either in the cities or in the small villages visited. There were many school children on holiday (Easter week) who would approach us and ask, “Where are you from?” When we told them we were from the USA and lived in California near Disneyland we got a lot of smiles and a big “Welcome to our Country!”

We had the good fortune to have the owner of Caravan-Serai, Rita Zawaideh with us on the tour. Her colorful past living in both Jordan and Syria made for further insight into the lives of people living in the Middle East.

Both Bill and I enjoyed seeing and learning the history of the many ancient Roman ruins, amphitheaters, mosaic masterpieces, visiting Petra (the Rose Red City, spending a cold night in a tent at the Wadi Rum(I used all three blankets given to me),visiting Palmyra and the great Mosques (which were awesome in architecture and design. The inside of the Mosques had Swarovski crystal chandeliers costing over 60 million dollars. We experienced a jeep ride in the desert (it was like being on a roller coaster (I did not like the ride….too scary). I also had the unique experience to go to a fashion show in Dubai. Wow! I thought I was in a New York fashion show…. models from Russia and Sweden modeling the latest in Western attire with Hip Hop music in the background. There were men and women who were dressed in their traditional long black robes and scarf, others in Western garb all seating side by side enjoying the show.

Our tour also took us to a winery in Lebanon. We actually liked both the red and white wines and bought some at the Duty Free shop to take to the hotel.

The highlight of the trip was visiting Rita’s family both in Jordan and Syria. Both families outdid themselves to prepare a sumptuous lunch to top it off with delicious desserts. It was a real treat to talk to each of the family members and find out more about their lives. All were so welcoming, warm and friendly.

I would recommend the trip to all. It was a trip of discovery, educational, enriching, a priceless adventure. Both of us are grateful that we were given the opportunity to travel in these countries. However, it was good to get back to the USA, Irvine, our bed and to our cat, Koko Chanel who missed us.

Betty and Bill

Busy Fall Season Coming Up!

As we approach our busy fall travel season, things are really starting to get busy in the office at Caravan-Serai Tours. We have a tour to Saudi Arabi (space is still available!) in September, a full tour to Iran in October, and an almost full tour to Tunisia in early October, and our ever popular Levantine Adventure Tour (a few spaces still available!) in October, as well.

As always, I will try to get posts from people while they are on the tours to post here so you can keep up with the tours as they are going on. This was really popular last fall, so we will work on keeping that going.

Also, I have started photos albums on our Facebook page - so you can go there and see numerous photos from many of the countries we have tours to, and it will be updated as new photos come in this year.

Enjoy, and as always, thanks for your support!

Sights and Sounds of Jordan, Syria, & Lebanon

Below is a post from one of the participants from our Oct. 15-28 Jordan and Syria Tour. Enjoy!
Brenda
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Hi Everyone,

It's hard to believe that I'm back in my comfy home after a long journey of 14 days, flying 12 and half hours across from Amman, Jordan and another 5 hours from New York to San Francisco; it was another time capsule of another world!!!The destination: Syria and Jordan..definitely the Middle East , Wonder of Wonders, the Cradle of Civilization and ten thousand years of civilization with twenty diverse cultural eras.

Before going any further, I would like to make a disclaimer that my historical knowledge and dates may not be accurate and my story are only my interpretations. My observations of the sights and sounds are my delight in the world of discovery.

JORDAN helped me complete my list of must sees, as National Geographic did mention that PETRA in Jordan as one World Wonders. No one can really appreciate the grandeur of this site, unless you are physically there. I soon realized that PETRA "Rose Red City" was more than the famed building of the Treasury, but a whole city behind, carved out of sandstone with a Roman amphitheater and spectacular Church to boot.

Little did anyone realize that on this trip, we would be treated to seven UNESCO Sites. FYI: (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Sites.It was founded to help preserve specific landmarks and natural sites and to draw public awareness to them.

Our group had the pleasure of spending an afternoon at DANA RESERVE (UNESCO site) where we were challenged to go hiking for several hours on very rocky mountain surfaces. Our Jordanian guide gave us the hope that we would find wildlife romping about, but the only rompers, were our exuberant tour members who could have been on a photography assignment as they romped precariously from rock to rock formations to get their pictures.

Little did we expect was to be really doing hard camping at another UNESCO site, WADI RUN. It is the vast desert land with jutting landscapes and more expected wildlife. I really expected to see Lawrence of Arabia reenacted on these vast plains; our group had the pleasure of sitting on the back of open air trucks riding & bumping through the fine sand. Needless to say, our wind tousled sandy hair demanded another shampoo.But not tonight..our camp was a two man Pakistani made canvas tent with two cots and bedding. No more, no less; oh yes, a bright burning lantern outside. Honeymooners would have almost loved this, but it was too challenging to find everything in the dark, much less the bathroom which was in a separate building, many tents away. Now try going to go the bathroom in the middle of the night when you only have a small Sharper Image light to guide the way. However, one lesson learned, the Jordanians cook their dinners like the Hawaiians do a kaula pig for a Luau. Their marinated meats, namely lamb and chicken, are put into huge cauldron submerged in the ground, covered with hot wood coals and cooked a whole afternoon. The end result was a culinary delight.

To compensate for the dire conditions for us "non campers" who are more like princesses, we were rewarded with a glorious stay at the Kempinski Hotel at the Dead Sea, which I have rated as 6 star!!! What awaited us was the chance to play and float in the Dead Sea, 400 meters below sea level, and to slather ourselves with the" cure all, make you beautiful mud." Yes, we all did succumb to bringing our senior bods to test the waters and found it to be truly salty and very buoyant. With the promise of improving all skin tones to rejuvenation, we naively managed to spread this very licorice looking color mud, with the consistency of molasses, on our bodies from head to toe and that meant covering our faces. Before long, we could not recognize anyone, except by body size.

A ride through the Jordanian desert , totally void of any greenery or water on a straight road with an endless horizon, brought us to visit QASR AMRA, (UNESCO) which means "Construction". Once a 8th century Palace, complete with baths and unique Christian frescoes, we were able to find the remains of a beautiful and glorious structure. This palace, in its hey day, was once occupied in a lush valley of trees and water. Again, it was a "Kodak moment" for us or should I say a "digital" moment.

AL MUIJIB, also known as APAMEA (UNESCO),13th century, Roman city,was one of my favorites; it was a "sleeper", There are boulevards of impressive restored columns and my heart just felt my heartstrings tug. It was so spectacular!!! Imagine, avenues of bold impressive columns, " Colonnade Avenue, "where it seemed like miles of tall, majestic columns, with or without it's Corinthian curly cue tops. While strolling through the avenues, we had a well fed stray dog follow our group for a few blocks and he reminded me of my morning walk with my Sheltie dog, Monty. What is impressive is the distance that large stones had to be carried up the hill and be erected to form the columns. At the southern gate, known as the Homs gate, there exists twisted fluted columns, 2nd century AD, which was happily recorded digitally by me.


SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF JORDAN
*Each morning, at 5 am, I am awakened by the Morning call to Prayer with a lingering chant.
*The city of Amman, consists of seven hills, dotted with very concrete,boxy looking, homes everywhere. It looks like Lego land and there seems to be a lack of color, like no one paints their homes with any color, very neutral sandy
*There hasn't been any rain in the area since April 2007, very arid
*Hard to believe, there is a Sam's Club and Safeway.
*All rooftops have an unfinished look: pillars with exposed metal.This is done in anticipation of adding another floor to the building for a family member to move in
*As we leave the city of Amman, the outskirts are hilly and dotted with rows of olive tree farms and pistachio farms
*One does not forget you're in the 21st century as there is plastic everywhere: plastic bags of every color are scattered all over the countryside, as there are water bottles.
* Phosphorus is the country's biggest natural product and loaded onto trains to be transported to different areas of the country. While at Wadi Run, our morning call was the rumbling sounds of a train, transporting phosphorus
* Camels are likely to cross a highway or be lumbering around the countryside on it's own. Most of these camels are white and are smaller built as compared to their counterparts.
* One of my favorite little towns was Madaba, the city of mosaics where it was discovered a Byzantine mosaic map showing Jerusalem and other holy sites from Biblical times
* Jerash, a forgotten Roman ruin was also another visit that called for more digital moments.

Not reading my itinerary too carefully, I found out that we were going to be in LEBANON for one day. That was one of the most historic days in my life, for I have found another site that I have fallen in love with. This has to be another UNESCO site, if not a World Wonder: please let me introduce to you BAALBECK.

It is a fabulous Roman city ruins which could surpass Petra.Our visit to the Temple of Jupiter where amazingly ,much was in tact. However the piece of resistance was the Temple dedicated to Bacchus, the god of grapes and wine. Those Romans were party timers from the get go...as we were able to witness a Wine Hall that was extremely well planned and perfect for having little groupies of a 1000 for drinks and nibbles. ( ah, hummus again) Because of the recent excavation of this project, we were able to see all the many finer carved details and appreciate the grandeur. One historic note, most of the rocks and stones were monster boulder size and were secured with imbedded metal rods and moved by animals and hundreds of slaves. Each boulder had been carved up to eight steps and would be placed at each building. Water systems were "no problem" ..hot or cold, the Romans had it figured out. Their water pipes have held up for centuries!!!

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF LEBANON:
*Did you know that they make wonderful wines,they have their own Napa Valley, Chateau Ksara has garnered the title of best little ole winemaker with multi awards; they used the old caves of the Romans who stored their wines there in the early days
*the architecture of their homes are nicer and more imaginative
* There are imported cars of every vintage and every make
*Kids all wear uniforms to school
*We are again reminded of the world of plastics, where plastic bags of every color are strewn all
over the countryside giving a confetti look
* Did I mention that you can purchase anything with your American dollar;?
* Taste of Lebanese food:similar to their other Middle Eastern neighbors:
Hummus, fattoch, baba,muharahma, kibbeh, cheese rolls, sabosa, lamb, chicken kabobs, and fresh fruits of the season. Persimmons were abundant and very sweet

Crossing the borders from Jordan to Syria and vise versa was serious business; strictly no picture taking and very serious border guards from both sides checked and double checked our passports to make sure that we weren't on their undesirable list. Fortunately, our tour leader, Rita Zawaideh American Jordanian, kept everything light with her great sense of humor.

Upon arriving into SYRIA, it was like going into another world. They have water and their whole world is a lot greener. It boasts of the two major cities, Damascus,the capitol and Aleppo, former capitol. Their must see showcase is Palmyra.(UNESCO) Believe me, I had never heard of this ancient city and was truly delighted to know that we would be exploring another Roman ruin. As it was dusk, our group managed to drive up to the top of a hill where there was another castle awaiting our tired feet and begging us to explore. and to see the sunset. I chose neither. I was in "shoppers paradise". All the Syrian or Bedouin vendors were hawking their gorgeous table covers & silver necklaces. Bargain, bargain and when you pay in Syrian dollars, you're not sure if you paid too little or too much. But what a adrenalin experience.

Our morning walk in Palmyra was amongst the ruins and columns and camels;it was also another adrenalin rush, because the vendors from the night before chased us on motorcycles, yes motorcycles, trying to make a sale.We went from site to site and the motorcycles and vendors were right under our noses. We were in our element. Oh, yes.

Afew other must sees and also UNESCO site materials were in the major cities Damascus and Aleppo. Not to forget, the Citadel in Aleppo,the Street Called Straight in Damascus, the Omaryyad Mosque, also in Damascus.

We were beginning to feel "ruined ' out" but still manage to drag our tired bodies to see the other plums. The city of Bosra was nice and neat and their claim to fame is the largest Roman amphitheater. And who would have thought that the Syrians would have named a castle in French; Krak Des Chevalier.(UNESCO) It's a complicated story, but a remarkably well preserved Crusader castle.

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS OF SYRIA
* I'm still awaken by the 5 am Morning call to Prayer with a lingering chant
* The traditional women of different sects all have their version of a black dress, called a burka or kaffeiyehs. If you go into the souk, (market place) you'll see every conceivable black dress with many embellishments of trims and flowers. The best one was when I saw a lady in her black burka and it was trimmed with the Burberry plaid. Now how stylish can you be??
* The souks, a local market since time, is the Whole Foods of the Middle East; you will find the most fascinating and complete store in the world. I was more intriqued with all the fancy women's lingerie that rivaled Fredericks of Hollywood. I certainly didn't see the women wearing them, so I suspect there is a lot going on that doesn't meet the eye under those black burkas.
* The souks gave us Americans of having a chance to interact with the merchants; when one of the merchants found out we were from America, he expressed his choice of our presidential candidate. We want" Obama, we want Obama" I had to hold my tongue.
* In the downtown area of Damascus, in the morning,the shop keepers all wash and mop their floors and even the frontage of their side walks. Shades of Japan and Korea.
* If you want a little morning exercise, try walking in downtown Damascus and try crossing the street. You have to play the game of chicken when you cross between a million yellow cabs and dodge quickly all the other oncoming cars. Great for your mind and agility
* If I haven't mentioned it before, our bathroom stops were quite challenging. Question??? Is it a Western?? No, it's a HOLY ONE!!!
* Did I mention that we traveled in a Chinese made bus ?? Yutong
* Many gorgeous pashmina scarves found in all the stores are from the Far East and even have the same familiar labels
* Upon entering the Holy Mosques, we women were required to rent a robe that covered us from head to toe and had to have our heads covered during our visit. Shoes were not permitted. It made us feel so "local".

From our Christian background, it was exciting to be visiting the many places that Jesus Christ had been to or to relive a happening from our Biblical stories. Our stop to the Baptismal site of Jesus in the Jordan River, gave way to our getting our selves wet with the same water. The visit to the Church of Annais, Basilica of St Simeon ruins and the tiny villages of Ma'alaula and Sednaya, where it is the only place in the world that speaks Aramaic, the language of Jesus Christ. We heard a priest say the Lord's Prayer in Aramaic.

My head is still reeling from all this saturation of history, architecture, culture, religion, people, foods etc and feel so blessed to be able to do another Trip of a Lifetime. Now I can check off my list of Wonders of the World and add more UNESCO sites that I've seen.

AH, now for a good nights sleep....perhaps, I'll be awaken by the early morning Call to Prayer.

MURIEL KAO

Photo Album for Levantine Adventure Tour

Visit my photo album for the Levantine Adventure Tour! Click the link below.

Photo Album

enjoy!

Brenda

Home at last

Wow, what an action-packed last 2 and a half weeks! I am at home now, reflecting on my trip to Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon, and what a trip it was. Where else can you see ancient wonders such as Petra, natural wonders like Jeitta Grotto in Lebanon, cosmopolitan cities like Beirut and small villages and Bedouins still living the nomadic life?

I learned about insurance for camels- what happens if a camel runs out on the road and is hit by a car or bus? This a very real problem, and camels are very valuable to their owners- one figure I heard was about $1500 US dollars per animal. Obviously something you don't want to lose. But the camel herds, and the goat and sheep herds, too, often cross highways or graze alongside the roads. So what happens if one gets hit? Well, auto insurance includes provisions to compensate the animal's owner for their loss, as well as for fixing the car and taking care of other costs. I am sure Geico has never been asked - do you cover camel accidents?

I also got to see some places I had been before and noted the many changes that have taken place. One change in Jordan is the notable increase in visitors. Sites are more and more popular as word gets out that these sights really are amazing. Other changes were not so monumental, such as noting that the cafe I used to spend lots of time at in Aleppo when I was there 12 years ago, has been upgraded with new chairs, tables, and umbrellas, and the street it sits on is now blocked off to car traffic - that was half the appeal to the place before- watching the cars zoom around the base of the citadel! Oh well, time marches on, as the sculpture of Father Time reminds us at the Jeitta Grotto caves, and things will change either in large chunks or small drips.

My next project will be to upload a web album of the photos I took throughout the whole trip.

From the Dead Sea to Damascus

Ahhh, Damascus, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world! Unless of course you are in Aleppo! Ahhhh, Aleppo, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world! OK, so why do they both claim the title? Well both cities have evidence of continuous human habitation dating back longer than any other cities in the world, but I heard today the Damascus gets the official title because it is and has been a capitol city throughout much of its existance.

OK, but before we get to Damascus, I must tell you about the Dead Sea. We had a morning to spend a few hours soaking the Dead Sea, or just relaxing. I opted for the swim in the Dead Sea since I have studied a bit about Dead Sea salt and all its benefits so I could not pass this opportunity up to soak in the real deal. The water is like bath water. You wade in and when you get up to your hips you can just sit back and start floating. And let me tell you, float on your back! Don't try to float on your stomach - it doesn't work very well. You are so bouyant that your legs will not want to go back down to stand up. This creates a dilema when you want to get out! I tried and tried to get my legs under me but no way! I was thrashing around but it just wasn't happening - everytime I would try I would roll over or tilt and not get my feet down. I finally ended up having to go into the very shallow water and then I could get my knees under me and stand up! Glad no one had a video camera.

Next was the mud treatment. Soft, silty mud can be found along the shore of the Dead Sea and it is loaded with minerals. You just reach down and scoop some up and start smearing it all over yourself for more youthful looking skin and to help with sking conditions and to draw out impurities. Once covered in the mud, you just stand or sit and let it dry in the sun for a bit, then wither rinse off in the Dead Sea or shower it off at one of the beach showers. One other thing is a must - completely rinse yourself after soaking the Dead Sea or you will experience chaffing and itching like you wouldn't believe - I heard about that before from someone who apparently decided to skip the rinse and just got dressed strait from their soak. Big mistake, they discovered!

So after the Dead Sea we went to Amman for overnight, then the next day we departed for Syria with a stop in Jerash before the border, and then at Bosra after crossing into Syria. Both sights are very impressive and I highly recommend visiting both - the theater at Bosra is amazingly well preserved and the black basalt stone it is constructed with is unusual - most of the Roman cities we think of are white with the limestone and other lighter colored stones used in their construction.

Finally we made it to Damascus - yeah!! Damascus has a history dating back even further than the pyramids of Egypt. It figures prominently in Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic history and has remnants of almost all of its history still visible. The Ommayyad Mosque, for example, started out as a pagan temple, then bacame a Roman temple, then a Christian church and is now a mosque. All of its past can still be seen in the architecture - from the columns, minarets, mosaics, and arches. St. Paul was converted to Christianity in Damascus.

I won't go into the complete history of Damascus here- it is far beyond my scope and I certainly don't have the amount of time necessary on my free interent access at the hotel to do it justice! But to really start to see and understand the importance of Damascus, you really must walk the Street Called Strait and visit St. Hannaniya's church, and walk the marbel floor of the Ommayyad Mosque to just scratch the surface.

One more thing not to be missed- the ice cream at one of the oldest shops in Damascus - the ice creamery in the Hamadiya Souk! YUM!!!

Tomorrow it is on to Palmyra, so more to come then!

Brenda