Saturday, February 19, 2011

Ancient sites in Saudi Arabia

Here is an update from our Saudi Arabia tour participant, Dr. Kiracofe. Thanks for sharing!

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Today I visited several most interesting sites in Saudi Arabia, the ancient city of Al Ula in an oasis valley green with palm gardens. The city was an improtant trading center and stop along trade routes. The city has been continuously in existance for at least 2,600 years. What we see today is the surviving mud brick architecture in a protected archaeological zone covering perhaps 20 hectares, with more modern buildings nearby.

I also visited three stations along the Hejaz Railroad built just before World War I by German engineers for the Ottoman Sultan. This historic railroad was part of the system the Germans were trying to build to connect Berlin to Baghdad and the Gulf at Kuwait. The Hejaz Railroad was also an important military asset for the Ottomans and for this reason the Arabs sought to disrupt it as part of their revolt against Ottoman rule. They had encouragement from the British. T. E. Laurence, known as Laurence of Arabia, became famous during this time for his activities in the area that included attacks on the Hejaz Railroad. I was able today to photograph these stations, and a few others yesterday, one with a train still in the station, though much deterioratd. There is one station and maintenance facility that includes about 16 buildings at Madain Saleh, near Al Ula, that has been restored. Inside the old maintenance shed there are some of the old carriages, one now completely rebuilt, and also one of the original steam locomotives. Most interesting. Outside there are several other carriages waiting to be rebuilt and they are carefully converting some of the buildings for use as a hotel, making this a unique tourism destination.

Nearby is the Nabatean city of Madain Saleh, with its famous funerary monuments carved into the cliff faces, just as they did at Petra. This site was built about 2,000 years ago during a time when the Nabatean people controled the trade routes of the Saudi Peninsula by controling
the oasis centers. It is quite a spectacular site, and the surrounding geography is some of the most dramatic I have ever seen. We went deep into the valleys in four wheel drive vehicles to see some amazing sand dunes and rock formations, unlike anything I have ever seen, so dramatic. In a way the area reminds me of parts of Arizona and New Mexico, reddish colored sandstone formations eroded by wind and sand over thousands of years. We watched the sun set over mountains at the far side of the valley, a valley full of unusual rock formations and palm groves....

Today was certainly one of the most spectacular days of adventure I have ever had... just amazing...I strongly recommend visiting Saudi Arabia! If I only saw the things I have seen today it would have been worth all the effort and expense of coming here, many times over...

As soon as I have time I will send along some of the pictures...

Best wishes to all

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Cairo Update - 24 Hours and a World of Change

Aljazeera reported 3 million Egyptians in the streets of Egypt waited 7 hours to hear what the army and the new head of the NDP suggested would be Mubarak’s resignation speech. They were stunned when he insisted on by Mubarak’s non-resignation speech last night. Incensed by his speech, and only half way through it, they defiantly waved their shoes in the air. And yet they remained peaceful I don’t know how they did it.

Today there are a million people in and around Tahrir Square and noon prayers have not even started.

Communiqué #2 from the Armed Forces Central Command

The military assures the people of Egypt that it will:
Insure repeal of Emergency Laws and the enforcement of free and fair elections
Monitor the steps to a peaceful transition.
Release the arrested demonstrators AND
Calls on all Egyptians to return to work and resume their everyday lives.

This means the military’s upper echelon essentially stands by the regime. The question is will the middle and lower ranks do so? So far 25 of its members have turned in their arms and publically stood with the demonstrators.

The muezzin is calling noon prayers.

I’ll keep you posted.

P.S. Adel Eltafti, former deputy minister for foreign affairs, said that Hosni Mubarak, Omar Suleiman are mentally incompetent to stand for trial and should be referred to a committee of mental health experts instead! I think they since they’re armed and dangerous to self and others someone needs to bring them in.




Feb 11th 2011 - evening

It happened in a minute.

My young companion, Mohammed’s phone rang as my grandson, Philip, exited Cairo airport’s arrival gate. “Mubark’s resigned! He’s resigned!” we hollered--not “Hi Philip, it’s great to see you.” We left the airport high-fiving and thumbs-upping every which way. Fifty people had gathered round our driver and his car radio. We drove to Tahrir Square horn-honking the celebratory rhythm associated with winning soccer games--the only occasions Egyptians have had to celebrate for 30 years. We passed cars flying huge Egyptian flags and large eight-wheelers with blaring horns. The road filled with cars as we reached city center; people calling out, “Mabruk” (congratulations) and waving peace signs out the windows.

I’d planned on taking Philip to Tahrir to join the protestors. I thought they’d go on for days. But, one minute did it. Omar Suleiman announced Mubarak was leaving and we rushed to Tahrir to celebrate instead! A crowd of millions; not an inch of pavement to be seen. Flags everywhere. Children on their parent’s shoulders. Young women in pony-tails; many more in hijabs; a few in full face veils. Young men and old. Egyptian people; peaceful people stretching further than the eye could see.

We stood near a group from an outlying oasis chanting to the rhythms of Bedouin songs. An almost toothless old man from Upper Egypt, a farmer in galabeya, skull-cap and wool scarf had been in the Square for a week. A middle aged lawyer who’d been at every Lawyer Syndicate demonstration had been in Tahrir every day of the 18 days. “This should have happened long ago,” he told me. “We let him do it. We made him who he is. Not anymore.” He was still coughing from the tear-gas he’d inhaled. The young man next to him pulled out his cell phone with pictures 40 pellets in his back and head. But this was a night of celebration. “Everything was worth it, il hamdu liallah—Thanks to God.”

To those who worry about an Islamist take-over. Please don’t reduce these great people to that. And to those who worry about a military one. The chants were: “Civilian. Civilian. Not military rule!”


Feb 12th

Today was the start of the new era. Everyone turned out to clean up the Square. By the time my cousin, her daughter and our grandchildren arrived with garbage bags and candy, almost every scrap of rubbish had been picked up. Young people proudly polished the lions statues at the entrance to Kasr il Nil Bridge. Others washed off the “Mubarak must leave” graffiti from the walls under them. They brought tears to my eyes.

The message is: We will clean up Egypt! The next steps are forming a civilian interim governing committee, writing a temporary constitution, taking it to referendum, electing a new parliament and then a president. And yes we can! Which reminds me—please thank Obama for his great speech in support of what we did in Egypt. I think we should nominate the country of Egypt for the Nobel Peace Prize.

Amal Sedky Winter
Cairo

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Help for Egyptian Hospitals and Children

Thank you for your continued support and words of appreciation for the updates we have been forwarding from Cairo. The response has been overwhelmingly positive and supportive and we are grateful.

As you know from the news reports (many of you have mentioned watching Al Jazeera English online!) and updates that the disruption to the people in Cairo and elsewhere in Egypt has been substantial. While much of the chaos is over, and the protesters continue mostly unmolested in Tahrir Square, there are hospitals and other organizations that desperately need help to get supplies.

We have decided to help raise funds to provide direct assistance to a hospital and an orphanage in Cairo. We are working with the non-profit educational and cultural organization Salaam Cultural Museum, a registered 501(c)(3) organization. If you would like to join us in helping, please donate. We have set up a donation page through PayPal and you can donate any amount you choose. You can also mail a donation check made out to Salaam Cultural Museum (SCL) to our office at 3806 Whitman Ave. N, Seattle, WA 98103 and we will forward it to the museum.

Please forward this to anyone you know who is concerned about the people of Egypt.

Our donation page is located at this link:
http://www.caravan-serai.com/countries/egypt/FundRaising-Egypt.htm


Thank you in advance for your compassion!

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Cairo Update: The Empire Strikes Back

Our friend in Cairo just sent us this update detailing the violent turn taken in the protests. We all pray for a peaceful outcome and a new government in Egypt, and that our friends and family there stay safe. If you have accounts of what is happening in Cairo, please feel free to share them here.

Feb 2, 2011

The Empire Strikes Back

Last night Mubarak promised that the current parliament would study the two constitutional articles that limit the rights of people to run for elected offices including the presidency for which he promised not to run again. The military told people to go home. Today, Mubarak and his regime mobilized a counter-revolution and sent hundreds of ‘pro-Mubarak’ demonstrators (There is clear evidence in the form of ID cards that these are the regime’s police accompanied by armed bands of their notorious thugs) to attack the thousands of anti-Mubarak protestors in Tahrir Square. Having defined the issue as stability (a matter very close to the Egyptian heart) and chaotic violence (of which people are terrified), they proceeded to create the conditions with which they threatened the country. Anti-government supporters held their ground, calling for Army protection.

Two and a half hours of clashes, many injured, but yet the military stood aside. Although it had plenty of tanks and armored vehicles in place, it let hundreds of people mounted on roughly 60 horses and camels which definitely posed a safety risk enter the square. They were accompanied by police officers from state security and “escaped” criminals (reportedly released by the regime) carrying signs “Daddy Mubarak and Mommy Suzanne, we apologize for the past days’ demonstrations.” Pelting them with rocks and cracking heavy whips, he riders rammed the protesters. There was nothing spontaneous about this attack. Organized groups joined them, a hundred at a time. These people were well coordinated; their signs and placards preprinted. They blocked every entrance to the square so that people could not join the anti-Mubarak demonstrations. No one could leave, so they dug up paving stones. Fears of a blood-bath to follow. They are praying in the square. If the military is not going to protect the people I hope international pressure will work.

The regime propaganda machine, especially government television, has been in full swing mostly frightening the populace while calling for calm. Meanwhile there’s no attempt to contain the violent confrontations. Unfortunately, the combination of unprecedented concessions, the campaign of disinformation, and the staged confrontations have had their effect. Those less sophisticated—and this applies to many of the poor and uneducated—are switching from opposition to Mubarak to supporting him, and the stability and personal safety he promised.

P.S. Rumors that Ahmed Ezz, parliamentarian and Gamal Mubarak’s friend, has been prevented from leaving Egypt. Habib Adli, minister of Interior has been held for investigation by army (which hates him).

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Cairo Update for Feb 1, 2011

Cairo, Egypt
Tuesday, February 1, 2011

“I used to call them the spoiled brats of the internet,” one Cairo woman confessed. “Now I kiss their feet,” she said, referring to young men who broke the Egyptians long record of endurance under a dictatorial regime.

Today, the seventh day of the revolt against President Mubarak and for democracy in Egypt, 2 million people are said protesting in Cairo. Some have estimated 8 million nationwide; that’s 10% of the population and that, technically speaking, is a revolution.

In Alexandria, the people are standing shoulder to shoulder from one end of that long city to the other.

It’s not the usual protestors; everyone knows them – like the Kifaya party (Enough) and the April 6 movement people.

No. This is everyone: we see huge clusters of women in their bright colored scarfs - like a meadow in spring - and the men don’t even flirt with them because the ethic of protest is respect.

Crowds open up for people in wheelchairs and assist those walking with canes.

The people, once assured that the Army’s interest was in protecting them, fell into easy cooperation. Troops and people parade side by side, Egyptian flags raised. They work together to check people for weapons.

People who live near Tahrir Square cook for the protestors. In Helwan, south of the city, supplies of cooking gas ran out. Some of the young men in the area located supplies in a neighboring area and delivered them back to Helwan, door-to-door.

In the upsurge of pride, some protesters have pulled framed photos of Gamal Abdel Nasser, president of Egypt from 1954 to 1970, off the walls of their homes and wave them above the heads of crowd – reminding their fellow Egyptians of the last time, during the pan-Arab movement, when they felt such self-respect and promise.

Everyone uses the same words of protest. Everyone is on message.

There is no doubt that Mubarak is leaving.

Power of the Army.
It’s true that the army has tremendous economic power in Egypt and that they may be thinking of their own interests as well as those of the people in allying with the protesters. But, in this country, the army is highly respected; it’s considered the institution of last resort and so far, they are deserving of that respect.

Furthermore, from a realistic standpoint, a revolution without their blessing wouldn’t succeed, if only because they hold that tremendous economic power.

Muslim Brotherhood, not.
The Brotherhood will not assume leadership. Contrary to what many westerners believe, they don’t have that influence - fact seriously distorted by President Mubarak, who wanted to keep his US allies nervous.

Amr Moussa interim leader?
Amr Moussa, whose term as head of the Arab League ends on Wednesday, could be the best choice for an interim leader. He’s 73, has spoken for the people for decades and has been treated accordingly by the regime.

The people know him and respect him. During the Africa Cup finals, President Mubarak appeared on the big screen to take credit from the players’ success. The crowds turned their flags down. When Moussa appeared, the flags flipped up.

America not looking good.
America is not looking good on the streets. If Secretary of State Clinton has spoken one day earlier, it would have been acceptable. Now the US is seen as too little too late.

We hear that the Americans are meeting with Mohamed al-Baradei, a big mistake. Here he’s perceived as being too far removed from the lives of the people, an impression he exaggerated by speaking to the people on television from the lush gardens of his residence.

Endurance of Egyptians
It’s used to be said that Egyptians can endure anything. If one revolution fails, the joke goes, Egyptians would shrug and say, “there’s always next century.”

This time is different. They’re using their capacity for endurance for their own benefit. Yes, food has run out in some places but, as with the cooking gas, people from other neighborhoods share.

Yes the doors of the shops are closed to prevent looting, but if you knock politely and say hello, they’ll let you in to shop.

Each challenge is met with a solution.

Each political disappointment is greeted with the response: ”We’ll just stay longer.”

The mood is absolutely celebratory. People who have been disgusted by their country are standing up for it. They’ve stopped quarrelling among themselves for the few available spoils. In a class and gender–segregated society, this is a stunning achievement.

Amal Sedky Winter, PhD

Caravan-Serai's Egypt Tours on Hold Through February

Dear Caravan-Serai Friends:

In the wake of the civil unrest in Egypt and the travel warnings issued by the US State Department we have cancelled all our trips to Egypt until the end of February. We will know probably before that time if the situation is improving or not. We want to make the trip that you plan with us to be comfortable and safe and at this time we are not able to do that. We are offering the clients who have booked trips to Egypt for the next two months a full refund or to have the credit applied to another trip in the region or to do Egypt at a later date.

We are continuing to monitor the situation and we will keep sending you updates on what is happening there. If you want to get information yourselves on Egypt there is the web site of the US Sate Department at http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_egypt.html.

Our office and staff and family and friends in Egypt are all fine. We are in contact with them the old fashion way of land lines that have been working throughout these days of unrest. We are proud of the way the Egyptian people are handling the situation and taking control of the street - they have volunteers that are protecting their neighborhoods, protecting the area of antiquities and also cleaning the streets and set up their own security systems and searching people as they are coming to the rallies. People are feeling secure enough to come to these rallies with their families and kids. The first couple of days that you heard about with some violence was from the prisoners that were released and they are the ones that have been looting, but that is now pretty much under control.

If you have any questions we are in the office regularly and can answer them for you. We also want you to know that other parts of the region, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, Libya, etc. are still places safe to travel to. It is only Egypt that we are delaying our trips there for this month and will see what will happen. If you are booked for Egypt later in the year, we are waiving the requirement to pay your total balance 60 days prior to departure and changing it to 30 days prior to your tour.

Thank you all for you regards to the staff at Caravan-Serai and their families and friends that are in Egypt. Maha, in the office, is from Cairo and she is in constant contact with her mother and other family members and friends.

Thank you again and hope that you will consider travel to the "New Egypt" in the coming months


Rita Zawaideh, Maha, Brenda and Hamid and also our mascot "Omar Sharif" (the little Yorkie in the office)