Iran's Nomads Tour Map

Check out the stops we will make on the Iran Nomads Tour in May!


View Iran's Nomads (May 11-25, 2013) in a larger map

Day 12: Eech - Armenian Side Dish

Eech - Armenian Side Dish

1 onion chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
1 8 oz can of tomato sauce
1 can water
2-3 lemons squeezed and seeds removed
a pinch of salt, pepper and paprika
1 red pepper chopped
1 green pepper chopped
parsley and scallions
1 cup bulghur (medium)  - cracked wheat

Sauté the onions and the peppers until the onions become lite yellow add the sauce and water with the lemons, bring to a boil add the spices and then 1 cup bulghur (medium).  Let sit until the water is all absorbed.  Add parsley and scallions on top and serve warm or cold with pita bread.

Day 11: Georgian Shishkebab

The following recipe if for Georgian Beef Shishkebob. Enjoy!

“Shashlyk”

1/2 cup dry red wine, pomegranate juice, or sparkling water*
3 cloves garlic, crushed in a garlic press
1 small onion, grated
8 to 10 black peppercorns, crushed
Salt, to taste
2 1/2 pounds boneless lean sirloin, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
3 small onions, cut into wedges
3 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into wedges
1/4 cup olive oil

GARNISHES
Radicchio or red kale leaves
2 tomatoes
2 lemons, cut into wedges
8 scallions (green onions), trimmed
1 long zucchini, cut into six 1-inch-thick slices

1. In a large glass bowl, combine the wine, garlic, grated onion, peppercorns, and salt, then add the meat and toss to coat well. Refrigerate, covered, for 6 to 8 hours, turning the meat occasionally. Bring to room temperature before grilling.

2. Prepare hot coals for grilling until coated with white ash, or preheat the broiler.

3. Toss the onion and pepper wedges in a bowl with the oil.

4. Remove the meat from the marinade and string it on long metal skewers, alternating meat cubes with onion and pepper wedges and pushing everything closely together.

5. Grill or broil the skewers 4 inches away from the heat, turning frequently and sprinkling with the marinade every 3 minutes, 9 to 10 minutes for medium-rare, 12 to 13 minutes for medium.

6. To serve in a traditional way, line two serving platters with radicchio leaves or red kale. Cut into the tomatoes as though you are cutting them into quarters, but leave intact at the stem ends. Place one in the middle of each platter. Scatter lemon wedges and scallions on the platters. Stick the sharp end of each skewer into a zucchini slice. Place three skewers on each platter and bring the open ends together to form a tripod. Wrap the ends with a linen napkin to hold them together. Serve at once.

Serves 6

* Note: Although it is traditional to marinate the beef in wine or vinegar, the truly experienced Georgian cooks suggest that they actually toughen, rather than tenderize, good beef. They recommend using sparkling water instead.

Arava Border Crossing has Re-opened

We have received word the the Arava border crossing between Jordan and Israel has been re-opened.

Day 10: Tomato and Cucumber Salad

Here is an easy, refreshing salad that you can do the night before and then just add the tomatoes before serving.

4 cucumbers ( diced)

2 bunches of green onions - chopped

3 green peppers - chopped

6 stalks celery - chopped

1 bunch parsley - chopped fine

6 tomatoes quartered

Equal parts of lemon and olive oil

Mix all the vegetables together with the lemon and oil - cover and refrigerate.  Right before serving quarter the tomatoes and mix in, then serve.

Fabulous next to any meat or rice dishes.

Day 9: Stuffed Peppers, Tomatoes & Eggplant

Ingredients:
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter

For the Shells:
6 small black skinned eggplants (about 12 cm long and 4 cm in diameter)
6 medium green bell peppers
6 large firm tomatoes
salt
ground black pepper
For the Stuffing:
4 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter
1 1/2 pounds (700 g) ground beef or lamb
2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium green pepper (pointed or bell), finely chopped
chopped tomato pulp* (see the recipe)
1 cup chopped fresh basil
½ cup cooked and split chickpeas (1/4 cup dried, boiled in slightly salted water and drained), optional
salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Prepare the shells.
Eggplants: There are two ways to prepare the eggplant shells. Choose one you like better.
Method 1: This is the easier method and takes less time than the second. Cut off the stalk end of the eggplants. Make a lengthways slit in each taking care not to cut right through. Fill a pan with water and bring to a boil. Gently drop the eggplants into the boiling water, and simmer for about 2 minutes, using a slotted spoon to keep them submerged. Remove and set aside. When cool enough to handle, remove the seeds from the eggplants with a spoon or by rubbing the eggplants gently between the palms of your hands to let the seeds fall out. Set aside.

Method 2: My favorite method, although requires more time and effort to prepare. Here instead of blanching the eggplants fry them before stuffing. Using a vegetable peeler or knife, remove about 3-4 lengthwise strips of skin from the eggplant to create a striped effect. Make a lengthways slit in each eggplant taking care not to cut too deep through. Soak the eggplants in a large bowl full of cold water with 2 tablespoons salt for 20 minutes to remove any bitterness. Drain, and gently pat dry. Fry the eggplants in 4 tablespoons oil or butter (add more if necessary) on all sides for about 10 minutes, or until evenly brown. Remove, drain on a paper-towel lined plate.

2. Make the stuffing. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the ground meat and cook until the released liquid has evaporated and the meat has nicely browned. Add the onions and cook for 5-10 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chopped pepper and tomato pulp and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from heat. Add the fresh herbs, and if using, cooked and split chickpeas. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.

3. Sprinkle inside of the shells with some salt and black pepper and fill them with the stuffing. Cover the top of the peppers and tomatoes with their lids. Place the vegetables side by side in a deep frying pan. Pour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter over the top. Cover and simmer over low to medium heat for about 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender (but not mushy!) and the liquid has reduced to the syrupy consistency.

Be sure to check out AZ Cookbook blog (where I found this recipe) for more Azeri dishes.

Day 8: Midia Dolma (Armenian Stuffed Mussels)

Today's recipe is for Armenian Stuffed Mussels, called Midia Dolma. Great for a party or a special dinner. Enjoy!

36 large mussels (in shells)
1/3 cup olive oil
3 cups finely chopped onion
1/2 cup uncooked rice -Basmati rice - wash it two times
1/4 cup dried currants
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
salt and pepper
2 cups water
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
2 lemons cut into wedges for garnish

Preparation - Oven at 300'F
1. Scrub mussels, loosen (do not separate) shells, and remove beard.
2. Rinse under cold, running water then soak in cold salted water 1 hour.
3. Meanwhile, saute onion in olive oil.
4. Remove from heat and stir in rice, currants, nuts, allspice, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Set aside to cool.
5. Rinse mussels again under cold, running water.
6. Place 1 Tablespoon of filling in each shell, careful not to overfill them. Close tightly and tie with a piece of string.
7. Arrange in layers in a heavy casserole. Add water and lemon juice. Place an inverted plate on top to hold mussels down during cooking.
8. Cover and bake in a 300' oven for 1.5 hours
9. Uncover and cool to room temperature.

 Serve with a garnish of sliced lemon.

Day 7: Bunyer Armenian Cottage Cheese Salad

Banir aghtsan / Bunyer
Armenian Cottage Cheese Salad
Serve in small bowls with pita bread. Serves 2

Ingredients:
1 cup cottage cheese
2 Tablespoons crumbled feta cheese
1 Tablespoon tomato paste
1 Tablespoon chopped onion
1/4 cup diced tomato
1/4 cup cut-up green pepper (use bell peppers, mild frying peppers or chilies)
2 Tablespoons chopped black olives
2 Tablespoons olive oil
pinch of oregano & cumin
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
1. Mix tomato paste with cottage cheese using approximately 1 Tablespoon paste per cup of cottage
cheese
2. Add feta cheese, onion, tomato, green pepper, and chopped olive
3. Sprinkle a dash of cumin and oregano
4. Salt and pepper to taste
5. Drizzle with olive oil

Day 6: Georgian Cheese Pie

Georgian Cheese Pie

“Khachapuri”

In the restaurants and khachapuri parlors of Georgia, the pie is made from a dough that combines local yogurt, eggs, and flour, or from yeast dough. The shape and the fillings vary from region to region.

2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 large egg

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 cup club soda, or more as needed, at room temperature

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

1 recipe Cheese Filling (see below)

1. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl, and make a well in the middle. Pour in the egg, oil, and club soda and stir into the flour, adding more club soda, if necessary, to make a rather soft dough. Transfer the dough to a floured board and knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball, cover with a linen or cotton (not terry cloth) kitchen towel, and let stand for 1 hour.

2. Divide the dough into four parts and shape each one into a ball. Let stand, covered for 15 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two large baking sheets.

4. On a floured surface, roll out one of the balls to an 1/8-inch-thick square. Brush the dough with some of the melted butter. Dip your fingers in melted butter and pull the edges of the dough in different directions, stretching it evenly until it is almost transparently thin. Don't worry if the dough tears, as you will be folding it up. With a sharp knife, trim the edges of the dough to form an even square. Fold the square in half, brush the surface generously with melted butter, and fold in half again crosswise, to form a smaller square. It should be approximately 6 to 7 inches. If it isn't, pull it out slightly to fit the dimensions.

5. Brush the square with butter. Shape one-fourth of the filling into a ball and place in the center of the square. Fold in the corners of the square like an envelope. With your palm, flatten the pie so it is about 1 inch thick. Brush the top with melted butter, and carefully transfer to a prepared baking sheet.

6. Repeat the procedure with the rest of the dough and filling.

7. Bake the pies in the middle of the oven until golden brown; about 35 minutes. Serve warm.

Cheese Filling

10 ounces mozzarella cheese, grated

8 ounces feta cheese, preferably Bulgarian, crumbled

6 ounces cottage cheese

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into small pieces

1 large egg

Salt, to taste (optional)

In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except the salt and mix well. Taste and season with salt, if necessary.

Makes 4 pies, to serve 8

Day 5: Gutab - Azeri meat stuffed flatbread

Here is a popular Azeri dish that we sampled several times, with both a meat filling and a spinach filling, during our visit to Azerbaijan. This recipe came from the AZ Cookbook blog and you can see photos of the process there.  These can be an appetizer or light lunch or dinner. 

Meat Stuffed Flatbreads (Et Gutabi) 

Makes 12 (serves about 6)

For the Dough:

4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups water, at room temperature

For the Filling:

1 pound ground beef or lamb, or a combination
2 medium onions, peeled and passed through a meat grinder (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon sour fruit paste (you can obtain it from sour fruit leather - soften it with water) or ½ cup fresh pomegranate arils (you can adjust these amounts to taste)
Salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste

Filling Variation

In the northwest, particularly in the region of Balaken, a pinch of dill seeds (they add a FANTASTIC new dimension to the filling), some crushed garlic and sometimes chopped fresh cilantro is added to the filling too. Sometimes, sour paste slightly diluted with water is spread in a thin layer on a cooked buttered gutab for a piquant tart taste.

Also needed:
Unsalted butter stick, to brush (if using method 1 to cook)
Vegetable oil, to fry (only using method 2 to cook!)
Powdered sumac, to garnish

Prepare the dough: Sift the flour into a large bowl. Add the salt and stir to mix. Make a well in the center. Gradually adding the water, stir with your hand, until a rough ball forms. Sprinkle a large working surface (you can use large round wooden board) with some flour. Scrape the dough the floured surface. Knead the dough until smooth and not tight, adding more flour if it sticks to your hands, about 10 minutes. Do not be tempted to add too much flour, or the dough will be tight and difficult to roll out. You will add more flour to the dough while rolling it. Divide into 12 equal parts and shape each part into a ball. Work with one ball at a time, keeping the rest covered with a kitchen cloth.

Prepare the filling: In a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients for the filling and mix well. If using pomegranate arils instead of sour paste, mix the mixture gently so as not to smash the arils. (You can also sprinkle the pomegranate arils over the meat filling before sealing the bread in a half moon.)

Roll out the dough: Transfer one ball onto a lightly floured surface. Sprinkle the dough with some flour. Slightly pat on top with your hand to flatten then begin rolling with a thin rolling pin, rotating the dough with each rolling, until it is about 5 inches in diameter. Now, sprinkle the circle with some flour and spread it evenly with to cover the entire surface of the circle (this will prevent the dough from sticking to the rolling pin and tearing and will also make it easier to roll). Begin wrapping the circle around the rolling pin at a slight angle from you. Wrap till the very end, then turn the dough so that the rolling pin is parallel to you, and unwrap the dough swiftly. Continue in this manner, sprinkling the dough before each wrapping and thinning process. Continue rolling until you obtain a thin 10-inch circle.

Fill the dough: Spreading half of the dough circle with a thin but dense layer of the meat stuffing. Then cook, following either of the methods below:

Method 1: Cook on a preheated saj or a griddle, or  a non-stick frying pan, first one one side, until slightly brown blisters appear, then turn to cook the other side. Remove from the pan and transfer onto a plate. Brush the top with butter while still hot. Continue cooking the flatbreads in the same manner, stacking the cooked gutabs on top of each other and brushing their tops only. Sprinkle with sumac and serve immediately.

Method 2: Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a non-stick frying pan, large enough to hold one or two gutabs. Cook the gutab until light golden, turning once to cook on both sides. Add more oil to the pan if needed for each new batch. Transfer the cooked gutabs onto paper towels to drain (do not brush with butter in this method). Sprinkle with powdered sumac and serve immediately.

Day 4 of Caravan-Serai Cooking

Chakhokbili

The name of this Georgian dish, chakhokbili, derives from the word khokhobi, which means "pheasant" in Georgian. But although this dish was evidently made with pheasant at one time, today either chicken or lamb is used. Chakhokbili is a refreshing, slightly tangy fricassee, with tomatoes, garlic, lemon juice, and lots of fresh herbs. Double the recipe and serve at a large dinner party - it's healthy, simple, and inexpensive. Serve with a steamed rice pilaf or bulgur pilaf.

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 chicken (4 1/2 pounds), cut into 12 to 16 pieces, well rinsed and patted dry
6 cloves garlic, crushed in a garlic press
3 large onions, coarsely chopped
10 fresh, ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and quartered
1/3 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
6 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, plus additional for garnish
5 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
5 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
8 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven. Add the chicken pieces, a few at a time, and brown on all sides over medium heat.
2. Stir the garlic and onions into the chicken. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover tightly, and cook without stirring for 15 minutes. The chicken will release quite a lot of juice
3. Add the tomatoes, wine, l/4 cup lemon juice, half the herbs, all the peppercorns, the bay leaf, and salt and pepper. Simmer, covered, until the chicken is tender, about 35 minutes
4. Stir in the rest of the herbs and simmer for 10 minutes more
5. Taste and correct the seasoning. Remove the bay leaf. Sprinkle with fresh basil, and serve at once.

Serves 6

Day 3: Sucmic Kufta

Here is a quick Armenian recipe that will help you use up left over mashed potatoes! Or you can make your potatoes before hand. Enjoy!

Sucmic Kufta
Potato and Bulghur Appetizers
Serves 4 - 6

1 1/2 cup cold mashed potatoes
1/2 cup fine bulghur wheat - soaked in hot water for about 10 - 15 minutes until soft
1 small onion, chopped fine
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 1/2 Tablespoon olive oil
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Knead bulghur into mashed potato until well mixed
2. Add remaining ingredients, mix well.
3. Shape into small egg-sized portions with hands.
4. Chill before serving
5. Arrange sucmic on a platter and brush lightly with olive oil. Garnish with sprigs of parsley.

Day 2: Spinach "Pkhali"

Photo courtesy of Dona Malan

Pkhali (the 'kh' is pronounced as a deep, guttural 'h') is a whole class of Georgian vegetable dishes that straddle the line between salad and dip. The constant is the walnut sauce, and the fact that the vegetable is cut very, very finely - almost (but not quite) to a puree. Beet pkhali is also very popular, and is often served alongside the spinach; to prepare beets this way, wrap 3 large ones in foil and bake until soft, then peel and finely chop (or pulse in a food processor) before mixing with the sauce. If you'd like to substitute frozen spinach in this recipe, I imagine it would work, though I'm not sure about the amount; maybe start with a pound (half a kilo) of the frozen stuff and add more as needed to balance out the flavors.

1.5-2 pounds (.75-1 kilo) fresh spinach, stems removed and washed in several changes of water

1 cup (100g) walnuts

4 cloves garlic

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek

pinch cayenne

1 1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, or to taste

1 small onion, minced

3 tablespoons finely-chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

1 1/2 tablespoons finely-chopped fresh tarragon

salt

pomegranate seeds, for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the spinach and cook just until tender, about one minute. Drain well and let cool. When manageable, wrap the spinach in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze until nearly dry. Chop it as finely as possible (don't use a food processor or blender, which may puree it; it should have texture) and set aside.

In a blender, combine the walnuts, garlic, coriander, fenugreek, cayenne and vinegar. Add 3 tablespoons of warm water and blend until you have a smooth, creamy sauce about the consistency of mayonnaise, adding a little more water if needed to get things moving.

Add the walnut sauce to the spinach and stir until thoroughly blended and smooth. Stir in the minced onion, cilantro and tarragon, and season with salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours to allow the flavors to blend. Taste again before serving and adjust the salt and vinegar if needed.

To serve, spread the pkhali on a plate and smooth the top with a spatula. With a knife, make a pattern of diamonds in the top, and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds (or, in a pinch, walnut pieces). You can also roll the mixture into balls, as shown in the photo. Serve with bread.

Enjoy!

Day 1: Cauliflower with tahini sauce

This recipe is courtesy of the Tufenkian Hotel chain of Armenia, and it is served in their restaurants. It's a great vegetarian dish, too. Enjoy!

Cauliflower with tahini sauce

Ingredients:

• 1 cauliflower, about 1 ½ pounds

• 1 ½ cups water

• ½ teaspoon salt

• 3-4 thin lemon slices

Sauce:

• ¼ cup water

• 1/3 cup tahini 

• 2 cloves garlic, mashed

• 4 tablespoons lemon juice 

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 1 teaspoon yogurt

• ½ teaspoon salt

Garnish: 

• ME red pepper

• 2 scallions, finely chopped

• 3 tablespoons minced parsley

Preparation:

1. Remove any bruised leaves and bottom core from cauliflower, using care not to break it up. Hold cauliflower under a gentle spray of water and rinse it a few times.

2. Bring water to the boil in a saucepot large enough to hold whole cauliflower. Lower cauliflower into water, core side down. Sprinkle with the salt, layer lemon slices on top , cover and simmer gently 8 to 10 minutes, or until cauliflower is still a little firm. Remove and place it on a round serving dish to cool thoroughly. Discard lemon.

3. To prepare the sauce, add water to tahini, stirring until well blended. Add remaining ingredients and mix.

4. Drizzle sauce over the cauliflower, sprinkle with red pepper, garnish and serve

6 servings

The History of Syrian & Armenian Cuisine

To understand Syrian cuisine as it developed in Aleppo, a little history is necessary. Aleppo is ancient, but its roots are buried beneath a very modern city. Legend has it that the prophet Abraham paused in Aleppo to milk his cows on Citadel Hill, thus came its Arabic name Halab, which means "milk." It is one of Syria's principle cities and the second largest after Damascus. Located in northwest Syria, it borders on Turkey and is at the crossroads of great and historic commercial routes, only sixty miles from the Mediterranean Sea and the Euphrates River. Aleppo lies along the Baghdad-Istanbul railway and is linked by rail with Damascus and Beirut, Lebanon. With road connections to Damascus, Latakia, and Antioch, Turkey it is a natural gateway to Asia.

Common ingredients such as pomegranate, nuts, onions, herbs, and spices are used in this  spread.

The old city of Aleppo is centered around and dominated by a twelfth-century citadel where the ancient souks, or bazaars, are found. They run along narrow and winding streets and virtually everything from spices and silks to brass are sold in these precursors to modern shopping malls.

The city was originally laid out in walled districts entered via babs or doors. Different groups, such as Jews and Armenians, lived in these distinct quarters. Though no longer segregated residential entities, these areas are still known by their ethnic names. The overwhelming majority of Aleppians are Muslim, but Christians, Jews, Turks and Armenians have had a say in the life of the city for centuries. While some group rivalries exist, it is not unusual to find churches and mosques abutting one another in Syria's major cities.

Travelers in Syria quickly realize that the people are multilingual, diverse and very much aware of the diversity around them. In the crossroads that is Aleppo, this is particularly true. Like Damascus, it is filled with many foreigners, tourists, and refugees. The Ottoman occupation of Syria, Lebanon, Greece, and Armenia supplied a context for tolerance and sharing, giving Aleppians a commonality of food, albeit in slightly different forms and presentations. When we hear baklava, for example, we think of Greece, but it is also a Syrian pastry called batlawa. Over time, the string cheese brought to Syria by the Armenians became known as Halabi cheese or the cheese of Aleppo because that is where so many of these refugees settled.

Armenian string cheese.

 Syria has an estimated 300,000 (although numbers vary a lot with some authors put the number at 800,000) ethnic Armenians. This is the largest Armenian community outside Armenia and Russia. Armenians were present within or around the northern borders of Syria since ancient times. The ancient Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia occupied the north western parts of greater Syria. This kingdom was part of the region historical and political landscape. It was involved in all the major events of the area from Mongols, Crusaders, Turks and Ayyobid wars. The Armenians established few towns in Greater Syria like Urfa and Aintab. These towns are in modern day Turkey and with virtually no Armenians left. The kingdom finally fell under the control of Mamluks rule and the Armenian population numbers in Syria dwindled gradually as most of them either immigrated to Cyprus or lived under Ottoman Turkey north of the Syrian border. The only town in modern Syria with an original Armenian population is Kassab in the north west of the country, with an Armenian presence estimated to be 1000 years old.

Most of the current Armenians in Syria today came during the Armenian genocide at the turn of the twentieth century. Tens of thousands of Armenians were forced out of their villages by the Ottomans and taken to the edge of the Syrian desert near Deir Az'Zor were they were killed and buried in mass graves. Armenians who fled the genocide came to Aleppo and other cities in northern Syria where they were given refuge and protected from the slaughter. From there they spread to the rest of Syria, Lebanon, Iraq, Egypt, Cyprus and Greece, and with them spread their culture and their cuisine which is incorporated into all walks of life in northern Syria mostly, and then from there into Turkey and Lebanon. 

ARAVA (Aqaba Jordan) BORDER CLOSED

Please note that the Arava border between Aqaba Jordan, and Eilat Israel is closed indefinitely. If you are traveling and planning to go into Israel from Aqaba, you will need to make other arrangements. At this time the other border crossings are open, but if we hear any change to this, we will post it immediately. Be sure to pass this on to friends and family that may be traveling between Jordan and Israel.

Hawaiian Adventure - Day 2 & 3

On the second day, we went Wai'anae boat harbor to start our ocean adventure.we got on a boat and enjoyed sailing for a while till we got to our destination which was a "Turtle wash" where sea turtles go and get their backs cleaned on rocks, we went snorkeling to see them and got to watch their behavior. It was a really nice and enjoyable experience. Then we got on the boat again, our next destination was dolphins!

We kept on sailing till we spotted dolphins, they were swimming net to us and jumping in the water and spinning in the air. It was fantastic!


That was not all, things got even better when we stopped the boat and went snorkeling for the second time, but this time swimming with the dolphins. There were so many of them and you could see the baby dolphins swimming next to their mommies and practicing their jumps spinning in the air... That was the highlight of the day!

Day three was a very nice day as we started it off by heading to Hanauma bay for another different experience of snorkeling. Here it was the opposite of what we did the previous day as the water was very shallow and there is more fish. It was very relaxed and calm, all we had to do is float and enjoy the reef and the various kinds of fish and eel swimming with you, not even bothering to move away as if you are one of them.

After that we went to a nice restaurant for lunch and dessert, and then we got ready for the second adventure for the day which was hiking the Le'ahi (Diamond head) crater.

It was a very nice moderate hike. We stopped a few times on the way up to take some pictures of the gorgeous panoramic views of the ocean, the island and Coco head crater. The hike down was very easy and breezy, the wind was very refreshing as we came to the end of the adventures of our day.

Hawaii Adventure - Day 1

Zena, our Jordan specialist, is in Hawaii learning about Hawaiian adventure vacations. She is from our office in Jordan. These are her reports from Oahu.


Day 1:
It was a really beautiful morning at the Waikiki beach, we had breakfast and we started our adventure by heading to Pu'u Ohi'a for a 5 mile downhill bike ride which was really amazing as the views and the scenery we got to experience were absolutely fantastic! We took a break before reaching the bottom of the hill where we got to have lunch with a fantastic view of the city and Waikiki Beach.

After that we went to hike in the O'ahu volcanic rain forest which is on private property and is leased to the hike and bike company. On this hike we got to see many kinds of tropical plants and flowers, huge veins hanging down from trees, a poison dart frog and much more... then, we finally reached the amazing waterfall we were supposed to see which is 200 feet high, so we took a break and had some fresh passion fruit and started off on the way back. But we took a different trail, It was the Bamboo trail which was mostly thousands and thousands of bamboo trees which we were walking through. It was so much fun going through that trail as we started suggesting names for it, I called it "The ape trail" as some of us got in touch with the inner child within us as we were leaning and grabbing on to the bamboo trees for support in order not to slide in the mud while hiking down, so we felt like apes or Tarzan. A woman suggested the name "The Hula skirt trail" as the bamboo tree roots look like a Hula skirt and there were so many exposed so it looked like Hula skirts everywhere!

We finally reached the end of our adventure for the day, went back to the hotel to get some rest and charge up for the next adventure.

Airline Baggage Policy Changes

We received this notice from Alaska Airlines about their new baggage policy and baggage fees. It has always made more sense to get your flights all on one ticket, this is just another reason why. Sometimes online ticketing sites won't let you get to your ultimate destination on one ticket. If that is the case, before purchasing separate tickets for the various legs of your trip, call us and see if we can't get your trip on one ticket - sometimes we can! It will save you a lot of hassle. If you can't get your air travels on one ticket, be sure to follow the guidelines below for allowing time to collect and recheck bags for each segment.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Due to the Department of Transportation's Enhanced Passenger Protection ruling, many air carriers including Alaska have made policy to promote single ticket itineraries to avoid the inconsistency of checked baggage fees.

Single Ticket Itinerary Policy

Alaska Airlines will check bags through to a passenger's final destination, or first stopover, for tickets booked as a single ticket.

This policy is effective for tickets purchased on/after November 15, 2012 and for travel on/after January 15, 2013.

Alaska will no longer check bags through to a destination purchased on a separate ticket.

Booking a customer's itinerary on a single ticket helps ensure a hassle-free travel experience and the following benefits:

  * Only one bag fee applies from departure to destination (or stopover).
  * Customer can take advantage of the shortest possible connection times.

If it is necessary to book an itinerary using multiple carriers on multiple tickets, ensure that the passenger has enough time to claim, re-check their baggage and pay the applicable baggage fees. A connection time of two hour or more to claim and re-check a bag is generally acceptable; however, it is the booking entity's responsibility to also consider the specific airport terminal, domestic versus international travel or the passenger's specific travel needs.

Published minimum connection times should not be used for this calculation as these times are used for calculating baggage that is checked through.

Exception: Customers connecting and using two Alaska Airlines tickets where travel is wholly on Alaska Airlines with flights operated by Horizon Air, SkyWest or Pen Air (between DUT and ANC only) may check their baggage through to a stopover point or the final destination if the baggage transfer rules are met.

Caspian Saga

This was written by one of our tour participants on the Caucasus Tour Oct 27 - Nov 9, 2012. We had a great time, excellent food, amazing sites, and wonderful people. Thanks for sharing this fun poem, Dona!

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In October of 2012 our group set out
To discover what the Caucasus were all about
We started out in Azerbaijan on the Caspian Sea
In Baku an amazing great city to see

Baku is really a mix of the old and the new
With lots of buildings for us to view
Old Town is really a delight
And the designer shops were quite the sight

In Baku we saw old paintings on rock
We saw the Caspian Sea without a dock
We watched the flames on the buildings tall
Saw the fireworks  over the water fall

We dined outside in places without sound
In private places with greenery around
We tried all the new foods with great delight
Some of the dishes were quite a sight.

The fresh bread was way too good
Causing us to eat more than we really should
The appetizers were really a full meal
But we did not stop there which was a bad deal

We visited markets with produce and meat
It was so fresh but didn’t want animal feet
The spices and nuts and honey to sell
At least the people here can eat well

Our guide, Yasim, in Azerbaijan was  pleasing
We laughed and joked and he took our teasing
But at the border we had to leave him
Our view of him will not soon grow dim

Then  we met up with Tamara  our guide
In Georgia she has lots of pride
She knows  so much and she tried to share it
But into some of our minds - it surely does not fit

The first night in Georgia  at a guest house we did stay
They were delightful to introduce us to their way
Our hosts there showered us with food and toasts galore
Our time there  showed us what was in store

We visited  old houses and museums along the way
Keeping up was hard so we did not stray
There are walls and museums of all kinds of things
Fashions, statues  and even some rings

We ate our way around the city
If our stomachs were only larger- what a pity
Our group is getting to know one another
And only in the churches our heads we did cover

Tbilisi is a very interesting city
Too bad it is poor which is a pity
But they have only been a country for 20 years
They are so proud of their freedom with no Russian fears

Lastly to Armenia we finally went
Now Laura was the guide that heaven sent
Seems the whole country is full of heritage sites
Monasteries and churches with no lights

We saw frescoes in  churches and monastaries
We saw walls that must have been  built  by fairies
We saw carvings most everywhere
And statues at which we often did  stare

We  drove on curvy roads that were bumpy
Seeing small towns and buildings that were frumpy
We stayed in a place way too small
About all  there was to do is look at wall

A lake was seen along the way
Lunch was from many a full tray
Then 290 steps to see the view
It was done by the real tough few

We have all eaten way too much food
But it seems to keep us in a good mood
The tomatoes and cukes were devine
The many breads were really fine

We had great fruit and lots of cheese
Eggplant dishes went in the breeze
Trying new foods is really fun
We ate until we were finally done

Lunch in a cave was a real hit
The lavash was bigger by quite a bit
The Grand Candy store was too much fun
Some of us will hit it again on the run

Yerevan is full of churches and museums
Laura set out to have us all see um
There is just way too much to learn and see
Not possible  in a short time where to be.

Our last day together was great
The Pagan temple had nothing we could hate
The singers there were a great surprise
For them they really had our ears and eyes

The museum of history was out last stop
It helped us to learn a lot
This journey  has been quite an experience
At times it took lots of endurance!

Now this group is an amazing  bunch
We talked constantly over lunch
All  have traveled to many places
Bringing us new dimension to our faces

Stacey is the one to go to for hats
Sloan is the one who seems to likes dogs and cats
These east coast sisters seem like a team
Having wine together for them is a dream

Terry is the lone male on the trip
His sense of humor is  often quite hip
Brenda  and her mom Bobbi are lots of fun
Taking lots of pictures and collecting junk until they are done

Nora is busy learning lots of stuff
With roots to this area she never has enough
Kelly is busy smiling and never sad
Dressing up for dinner trying to making us all look bad

Linda has to put up with me on this trip
I do what I can to keep her hip
I spent my time looking for chocolate and ice cream
In Tbilisi  & Yerevan I really found my dream

Thanks to everyone for making many days with great trips
I am sure  forever it will be on everyones lips
May our paths cross again real soon
Traveling is for us the real tune!

Between a rock and a hard place

After my visit today to the National History Museum, this statement seems at once to be appropriate for Armenia as well as a gross understatement. I have been hearing about the history of the region and Armenia for almost 2 weeks now but it really came together today how Armenia fits in with our other Caravan-Serai destinations.

Armenia has been in the path of clashing empires for centuries. In the 1700's they were in between the Ottoman and Persian empires, and became part of the Persian empire for a while. Then the Russian empire and the Ottoman were at war in the late 1800's with Armenia caught in the middle again.

The legacy of all these wars has most definitely left their mark on this tiny country, but none more so than the Russian-Ottoman war and the results of the final resolution of the war that not only kept Armenia split in two, but led to the genocide of Armenians in Turkey. The issue of what to do about the Armenians left in Turkey, issues about ensuring they were to be respected, were answered in a brutally  simple manner by the Turks- "No Armenians, no Armenian issues."

The genocide was the first of many in the 20th century and is named along with the Holocaust, Rwanda, and several others as part of the genocide century.

Other aspects of these clashes and Armenia being taken over by the Persian and Russian empires can still be seen today. I see subtle Persian elements in the artwork we have seen and of course the Russian influence turned into Soviet domination which has left its mark physically on the cities that are filled with abandoned Soviet era factories and buildings.

Armenia, as well as Azerbaijan and Georgia, have much to offer as a compliment to other Caravan-Serai destinations. Visiting these countries will definitely give you a much, much broader perspective on the region as a whole. It will fill in some gaps ad well as open your eyes to another side of history here.

Armenia! We Have Arrived!

Yesterday we said our farewell to Georgia and crossed the border in to Armenia. A little heads up on the procedure: you have to walk through the neutral zone over a bridge with a little river below. There are cables to keep people and big items from falling over the side, but it would not stop a purse or a passport from falling into the water below! That was all I could think of as I walked through the no man's land- don't drop your purse! Don't drop your purse! It could just drop on the pavement or it could fall a little to the side and then down to the river!

We all made it without incident and got onto our Armenia bus with our new guide and driver. We then made our way to see two UNESCO World Heritage sites Haghpat Monastery on the edge of the Debed River canyon and Sanahin Monastery, on a mountaintop. Here we learned a bit about the vast history of the monasteries and Christianity in Armenia. It is quite a long history withany influences from surrounding kingdoms and empires over the centuries.

One thing I noticed is that Armenia is very proud of their wine and brandy industry. You can find these products on sale just about anywhere- even at the kiosks outside the monasteries. I tried a taste of red wine last night and would have had more but I was feeling a bit under the weather. I can't wait to try more! The little I did have was very tasty.

We stayed at a hotel designed a bit like castle on the River Debed called the Tufenkian. It had a lodge-like feel with a big open lobby and lots of comfy seating to just sit and relax. You could go out on the patio and enjoy the rushing river and steep canyon walls when its warmer out. Really a very nice setting. Tonight we are in Tzakhadzor at the Kecharis Hotel. This is a winter resort area with a ski hill nearby.

Our lunch was on the shores of Lake Sevan. It reminded me a bit of Lake Chelan back home. Mountains and dry hills surrounding this huge fresh water lake. The trout at lunch was from the lake and was excellent.

Well, its time to get some rest. Tomorrow we go to Yerevan with sightseeing along the way.

Saying Goodbye Breaks My Heart! - Tehran, Iran Travel Blog

Saying Goodbye Breaks My Heart! - Tehran, Iran Travel Blog

The Last Roadtrip - Naţanz, Iran Travel Blog

The Last Roadtrip - Naţanz, Iran Travel Blog

King Tamara

Today we visited a monastary out in the middle of nowhere near the border with Azerbaijan. This is the place where David Gareji, a Syrian Christian came after he was run out of Tbilisi as he was trying to preach the Christian faith to the people of Georgia. At the time, Georgia was controled by the Persians, who were Zoroastrians at the time. They didn't take to well to David preaching, so the decided to frame him to disgrace him so people wouldn't listed to him anymore. They paid a pregnant woman to publicly claim that David Gareji was the father of her child. People believed her and David was in disgrace. So he cursed her and then left the city for the wilderness where he could just focus on his faith. He ended up in a remote area with lots of lime and sand stone and caves, and this is where the monastery was formed. Back in Tbilisi, the woman gave birth to a stone, instead of a baby, and the people realized they had been fooled and they began following David Gareji's teachings again.

Georgian history is quite diverse and really interesting. The country has been a crossroads and prominant and rich kingdom for a very long time. On the way back to Tbilisi from David Gareji monastery, we heard the story of King Tamara. She was crowned king, by her father who didn't want to marry her to another prince and have his kingdom be in another family's hands. The line of Tamara is the only royal dynasty in Georgian history. So at the age of 19, Tamara was named King while her father was still alive so that they could rule together and she could learn the business of running the kingdom. Then when her father died, she was coronated king, but not without some opposition. There were some nobles, who didn't think a woman should rule their country. This is in the late 12th century, so this is not hard to imagine she met with difficulty in assuming the throne. She ended up facing a parliament who tried to curb her power, but then was able to get rid of the opposition and she ruled the kingdom as the absolute monarch.

Another problem she faced was that of marriage. She wanted to bring a husband in who could lead her armies, but who wouldn't have any other power. The first match was with a Russian prince, but it didn't work out - he was rude, an alcoholic, and apparently infertile. So after two years, Tamara divorced him and sent him away. A few years later, another match was made, and by all accounts this one was much better. The husband was competent, led the armies, and they had two children - a boy and a girl.

King Tamara is credited with so many accomplishments - building things, increasing the kingdom's wealth, and much more. It was considered a golden age for the country.

Tamara died when she was 48 years old, and her son became king, followed by her daughter. It was during her daughter's reign that the Mongol hoards swept through and plunged the kingdom into the dark ages. The golden age of King Tamara was over.

Welcome to Georgia!

We have been in the Republic of Georgia for just 2 days and it has been an information and sight filled experience so far. I never knew there were so many layers to the Georgia history and culture. From the earliest civilizations on the Eurasian continent to the many invaders to a history of wine making that goes back thousands of years, Georgia is really an amazing little country.

We are at the Georgian National Museum which is worth a visit. It covers the earliest Georgia civilization through to the Russian invasion and Soviet occupation.

Here are just a few bullet points of interest that I haven't had time to flesh out:

The Radisson Blu Hotel is the former Soviet Intourist Hotel.

As in Azerbaijan there are old Soviet apartment blocks that they have tried to clean up and paint different colors.

1.5 million people live in Tbilisi

In the former Georgia capitol of Mskheta we visited the cathedral where Christianity was first observed in Georgia. Kings and queens were coronated there and buried there. More on the legend of what happened later.

Georgians love to make toasts about all kinds of things when having a dinner party. Caution: its not one and done! Numerous toasts will be made and you wine glass will be refilled many times!

Ok, more to come later.
Brenda

Dosvedanya, Azerbaijan!

After just a few days, I know that Azerbaijan is a land of many contrasts. It has a long and varied history, has been part of the Persian empire and the Soviet Union with remnants of both still evident as well as many other invaders in between. The Azeri language is a Turkic language but Russian is widely understood.

The Russians and Soviets have left their  mark on this tiny Caucasus country. They invaded and stole or destroyed precious works of art, destroyed culturally significant buildings, and pushed religion out of public life. But without this influence, Azerbaijan would not be what it is today and could easily have gone down the same path as Iran in the late 1970's.

You can see the Persian influence in the architecture of the historical palaces and other monuments as well as in the people themselves. We visited the Sheki Khan Palace today and it is very similar to the palaces we saw in Iran. From the exterior craftsmanship to the interior decoration, they are very similar. We saw the same use of the lion as a representation of the king as we did in Iran.

We saw the bustling modern city of Baku which was host to an international car race, is crammed with new construction but has the old heart of the city where you can wander the cobbled streets and see the old walls that used to encompass the city and protect it from invaders.

The natural history of the area is very interesting too. The museum at Gobustan has a really instructive museum with displays about the evolution that has taken place over the millennia. The sea level has risen and fallen numerous times providing plenty of sandstone and limestone for modern construction and providing the mechanism to filter water naturally for the city of Baku. There are no other fresh water sources except the ground water that filters through the rock.

This has also left Azerbaijan with an oil resource that is now helping to modernize the country. The former president Haydar Ilyev is credited with signing the Contract of the Century with The big oil companies to really develop the oil industry.

In the 19th century there was an oil industry that was very unregulated leading to the rise in power of the oil barons. When the Bolsheviks came in the early 1900's, they took everything from these oil barons including their businesses, their homes, everything. Our guide says many of them died - of a heart attack over losing everything. So the oil industry was nationalized but everything went to Moscow. When Azerbaijan became independent that maintained the nationalized oil industry but now the money is used to the benefit of Azerbaijan.

We have now entered Georgia, and my first impression is that the people are very much like the Lebanese in that they have endured so much through occupation and oppression, civil war, and revolution, yet they have an incredible zest for life. They have not let the conflicts and threats from inside or outside the country dampen their spirit. They also reside next to countries that sent like each other (Armenia and Azerbaijan), but they get along with both.

So more on Georgia tomorrow! I will also try to get some photos in here too.

Brenda

Isfahan - Part 2

The final installment from Isfahan - enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350755218/tpod.html

Isfahan - Part 1

Isfahan was one of my favorite stops when I visited Iran a few years ago. It's an amazing city (even if the river has been diverted for the subway construction!) and there is so much to see and do there. Every tour we do includes time in Isfahan.

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350627064/tpod.html

Update from Rita on the situation in Aleppo

I talked to family again today in Aleppo to see how they were doing.  They were telling me that we don't even hear half the news of what is happening in the city.

Some of the hospitals are open - the public ones and also the private hospitals - but they do not have enough doctors that are working in them.  One of the reasons is that doctors have been singled out by the government for helping the other side. They have been targeted, so the ones that could leave have left to the US or Canada with their families. Some have come back to the region and are working in the border towns if they can.

I asked them if someone had to go to the hospital as an emergency is that possible? They say yes, but you still need to go through a lot of check points and you are not sure who is manning each check point.  If you tell them you are going to the hospital you will be interrogated to find out why, what happened, etc- so you might be there for a couple of hours explaining and the person you are taking could be dying.  If you get hurt by a sniper and are taken in by a relative or a friend the same thing will happen but it can get worst since they will want to know where you were when it happened and why you were there and whose side are you on, etc.

My cousin was telling me that about 1/2 million residents of Aleppo are displaced and living either with friends or family, in the streets, or in front of buildings.  They had to leave their homes since they were in areas of bombing and they wanted to protect their families.  They now have a hard time in returning.  There is still about 80% of the population of Aleppo still in their homes in the area outside the center in the newer areas of the city.  Pretty much the old part of the city, the Christian quarter, and the Armenia quarter have all been hit and people have moved out of there.  The old homes that had been redone as hotels for tourism are being used by the rebel forces as strongholds, so these historic hotels get targets and an immense amount of destruction has taken place.

The historic Baron Hotel has been hit hard. The tourist hotel in the middle of downtown and the Amira hotel have been destroyed.  The stories of destruction in the old quarter go on and on.  These are the parts of the city that so much money had been spend on to rebuild the old Islamic structures and get the vibrant part of the old city going again, and now they are in ruins.  Aleppo was part of a project that has been going on for years to preserve old Islamic buildings. The architects that were working on this have received numerous awards for their work.  One of them is my ex-husband, and I am so sorry that this is happening since he and so many people had put so much time and blood and tears to do this work and now in just 18 months most of it has been destroyed.  It will never go back to the way it was.  It will be rebuilt like Beirut was after its civil war and most of it will be high rises, but where will the people be and how will they be emotional and physically?  The traumatic effects of war on any person is long lasting and the worst effect is on the children who will be the new generation that will be running this country- how much hate and grief will they have?  How long will the memories last? Look at what Hafiz the father of Bashar did back in the mid 70's and 80's and the destruction of Hama - those are the people now that are fighting Bashar since they remember their parents, brothers and sisters, etc that were killed, where in one day Hafez came and destroyed Hama and killed 20,000 people.
Rita Zawaideh

Yazd and the road to Isfahan

Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, Fire Temples, Water Museum, and more from Yazd. Enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350495987/tpod.html

Persepolis to Yazd

Persepolis, Naghsh e Rostam, Pasargadae, and then on to Yazd. Enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350409556/tpod.html

Another Day In Shiraz

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350292583/tpod.html

Report on Syrian Crisis

I talked to a friend of my daughter today that lives in Aleppo, Zuka. We are trying to convince her to leave, but she says she can't go by herself and leave her family behind.  She is the only one in the family that has a passport.  Even with a war going on you need to have a passport and also ID cards to leave the country and get into another country.  If you have a passport you can go into the city and not into a refugee camp.  She says she can't have her family stay in the camps they have too many problems and too many people.

She is also the only one in the family that is still getting a salary – she was working for ICARDA (International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Regions) and they are paying everyone until January. This is really good news, otherwise she and a lot of other young people would not have any money to live on for themselves and their families.  After 18 months of war, people are running out of money.  Just think if a natural disaster happened here and all banks closed and no ATM's worked, would you have enough cash to live on and for how long? I think most people in the US only keep enough for maybe for one week, if that!

This evening there was a program on 60 Minutes regarding Syria and the reporter states "the only people in the city of Aleppo are the poor".  I am sorry to state that she is very wrong and I will be writing to her.  There are the elderly and the middle class and also the handicapped that have not been able to leave and also a lot of people that did not believe that it would go to this extent and thought they might be able to hold on, but now they are stuck and not able to leave their homes due to snipers, road closures and not sure when the airports are open or not.  The cost of a plane ticket one way from Aleppo to Jordan is $800 and even more to Cairo.  There are only a few airlines that are still going into the country.

A doctor from Ohio, a Syrian-American just returned from a few days in Amman on a fact finding mission- he took a suitcase full of medicine with him and said that he will be doing this about twice a month.  He will leave on a Friday arrive on a Saturday and then return back to the US on a Monday.  He is very committed and wants to help in any way possible.  He came back and told me that the items that are really needed are:
1.  Hygiene kits for the women - purchasing in Jordan for $14
2.  School kit for children - purchasing in Jordan for $12
3.  Adult diapers - not sure of prices
4. Blankets for the winter

Salaam Cultural Museum and Caravan-Serai have joined forces with Disaster Training International and the Syrian American Association of Washington (SAAWA) to collect donations for these items.  We have Father Samir Abulail, a Jordanian from Irbid, that is leaving on the 1st of November and he will be taking the money back and purchasing the items through a wholesaler that we know there to get as much as we can for the money he will have with him.

If anyone wants to make a donation you are able to earmark what you want us to purchase with your funds and we will take note of that.

We want to thank you all for your concern and your emails about family and friends and also your guides that you had when you traveled there.  We are hoping that this will not keep on, but it looks like a very long fight and one that is not easy to resolve.

We are working on getting a fact finding group to go over about the end of November.  We are planning to include a therapist, trauma specialist, speech therapist, and a doctor from here to go and do our own research.  We will keep you all apprised of the situation.

A Day in Shiraz - a City for Romantics

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350273040/tpod.html

The Road to Shiraz (and I don't mean wine)

From almost sea level in Ahwaz, up through the mountains and on to Shiraz.

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350118684/tpod.html

Boxing Day in Ahwaz

Visiting Chogha Zanbil and Shushtar.

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350150329/tpod.html

Nomads, Iraqi Tankers, and Historical Sites Oh My!

Kermanshah to Ahwaz report. Enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1349977505/tpod.html

Hamadan to Kermanshah

I love the next to last line of this report from our client in Iran - "If you want to feel like a rock star come to Iran!"

I hope you enjoy these reports as much as I am - this is the same tour I was on a few years ago, so I am familiar with the places she is seeing, and her detail in the descriptions is really impressive!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1349891066/tpod.html

Hamadan, Iran

From Hamadan, Iran -

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1349804641/tpod.html

Iran-Susa Tour

We have a client in Iran right now who is sharing her travel blog with us, and she has given permission to share it on our blog. She is writing on TravelPod, an easy to use blog specifically for travel writing. Check out her blog and if you are so inclined, check out others on the site. It's free and easy to set up for your own travels! Below is the link to her posts. Enjoy!

Iran tour blog at TravePod

Destruction of the Souk in Aleppo

This post was written by Rita, who spent many years living in Aleppo.

This is the souk I remember in Aleppo.  When I live there I was in this place daily for my regular shopping.  I would go and sit with the merchants and talk to them and just have a great time and also talk to the tourist as they were coming in.  During those days they were mostly British, French, and Italian, and only a few Americans.  Then after I moved from Aleppo and came back to the US and opened Caravan-Serai Tours I would take people on the tours to one of my favorite places - the souk - to get their olive oil soaps and their spices and then some other things that they wanted.  This was not a tourist market this was a market that the locals would use so you saw all different kinds of people in all different modes of attire. I have talked to my spice man who I used for over 20 years and he is safe and at home with his family, but his shop is no longer there.  This was a shop that was owned by his great-great-grandfather and was passed down through the family.  This was a man that would tell me not to put the cinnamon next to the pepper since it would drink the smell away and it would be overpowered by the cinnamon - do not put your dry mint next to your saffron since everything will then smell like mint, etc, etc.  This was a part of my life and history so you can imagine what he is going through and what the Syrian people are going through that were so proud of their city.

The souk now has been burned by both the rebel forces and the military.  The rebels had taken refuge inside the souk and then the firing started between the different groups. The reports are stating about 1500 shops have been burned, since the doors that the shop keepers had were all made of wood. The market dates back about 2500 years ago.  It stood up to all kinds of foreign invasions over the centuries, earthquakes, but not the powerful tools of war of the 21st century.

I talked to Faez in Aleppo to see how they were all doing, he said “how do you think we are doing- we are listening to the news ad hearing what they have done to the old city. The destruction of one of the Old World Heritage Sites is something hard for us to accept.  We have 7 different Old Heritage Sites in this area and all have taken some sort of damage.”  I said, “I know, and I want to cry - what can we do?” He says to tell people to talk to their government officials and try and get this to stop. Get the foreign soldiers out of the country.  Let just the Syrians handle this.  The foreign soldiers and the others that are trying to help are not helping.  We have foreign mercenaries that have nothing to lose by burning these ruins and raping and abusing the children- this is a war and they are being paid.

We need to get the different sides to sit and talk and negotiate peace- this is something that can't keep going on - a solution is needed immediately.

This is what the souk is looking like now.  Syria is in need of foreign intervention.

I also, talked to Alaa in Damascus today and he says it is relatively ok there - way better than in Aleppo. His kids are going to school and the businesses are open, but that is for now.

You can see that both the government and the rebels are going from one area and destroying that and then moving on.  We saw that in Homs and in Hama that are pretty much ghost towns at this point.  We can't say this will be happening to Aleppo.  The museum in Palmyra has been destroyed and the artifacts have been stolen.  For a lot of you that used to travel with us to Syria I have been told that the young men that would sell us the jewelry, tablecloths, scarves etc. while at the sites are now gone and have joined the FSA.  Some have taken their families across the border to Jordan, walking thru the desert for days to get to the camps.  They do not have their documentation so they have to sneak into the country.

There is talk today that Jordan might have to close its borders to deal with the refugees they have if they are not able to get international aid for them. We are asking for your help.  Please forward these emails to friends and other people that you know that are worried or care for human lives and helping the children of the region.

We thank you for reading and listening.

~Rita

Syrian Refugee Crisis

The numbers are screaming out at us that by the end of the year 2012 we will have reached 700,000 refugees have fled Syria and are in the neighboring countries.  Most of these are in Jordan and more and more are coming.  This has become more then a humanitarian crisis of all proportions.  The neighboring countries are not able to handle the influx of new arrivals.  In the last week you had over 2,000 arrive at the camp in Jordan.  They are full , the NGO's had estimated that they would be reaching 185,000, but they have surpassed that and that is the new figure that have arrived at for now.

 

The UNHCR is not callling this business as usually any longer - before this they were receiving about 1,000 to 2,000 a week, they are receiving this on a daily basis as the killing goes on and their is no intervention from outside sources.

 

 "So it really is a completely different speed of emergency response, responding to the best of our ability to basically to provide the very, very minimum for people who arrive and flee and arrive in a traumatized state once they cross the border,"   Some have been displaced many times before leaving Syria and are in need of immediate humanitarian assistance.  They are coming with just the clothes on their backs

 

One camp in Jordan that was opened two-months-ago hosts more than 30,000 Syrians.  Another camp in northern Iraq has more than 27,000.  In Turkey, almost 88,000 refugees live in 13 camps. Two new camps were opened in Turkey 2 weeks ago and they are already full. UNHCR reports that women and children make up 75 percent of the Syrian refugee population.

Please we need you to open your hearts to what is happening to the innocent civilians - women, children and the elders and the handicapped.  They have no idea how long they will be here.  The harsh weather is approaching.  We want to try and get more doctors to the region to work on the effects of trauma on these children and how it will effect them later in life.  The other NGO are working on getting shelter and food and we want to help with the mental strain that this is causing.

 

Anything that you are able to do would be appreciated by all

 

Thank you

Please go to http://salaamculturalmuseum.wordpress.com/ to donate to help Syrian refugees in Jordan.

Syria Update, September 29, 2012

Syria Update, September 29, 2012 (Institute of Middle Eastern, Islamic and Strategic Studies. By Sherifa Zuhur)

Death toll: More than 94

Friday’s revised death toll: More than 160 including 104 unarmed civilians.

A report from Medicins sans Frontieres (Doctors Without Borders) from Syria:
http://www.doctorswithoutborders.org/news/article.cfm?id=6324&cat=voice-from-the-field

Aleppo province: A major fire engulfed the medieval markets, a tourist attraction in the city of Aleppo sparked by clashes between the Syrian military and the opposition. Many shops were destroyed and some were still burning this morning. http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/09/29/syria-crisis-idUSL5E8KT1VJ20120929?type=marketsNews

Clashes between the Syrian military and the opposition took place in the neighborhoods of Bab Antaya, al-Itha’a, Karm al-Beik, al-Kura al-Ardiyya, the al-Jandoul roundabout, al-Midan, al-Sakhour, Tariq al-Bab, and near the al-Nayrab military airport. Mortars fired at the airport damaged 2 helicopters. Clashes also occurred near the al-Madfa’iyya artillery school and a building nearby was shelled by the opposition and then burned. Shelling on Karam al-Jabal killed three persons. A sniper shot a civilian in Sleiman al-Halabi.

The Syrian military shelled the towns of Anadan, Hreitan, Kafar Hamra and Tell Rifa`at.

Damascus province: Tonight it was reported that the Syrian military were carrying out arbitrary raids and arrests in the al-Qadam neighborhood. Many have fled the area of Barzeh due to raids by the Syrian military and clashes there. The opposition attacked a Syrian military checkpoint in al-Asali, killing 2 Syrian military troops.

Eight persons were summarily executed in al-Qudsiyya. The Syrian military executed five people in the town of Maaraba. The Syrian military executed 15 people in the town of al-Baytariyya. Heavy clashes took place in the town of al-Hjeira. The Syrian military heavily shelled the town of Artouz and the town of Saqba, killing a man in Saqba.

Dara`a province: The Syrian military overran the Shamali neighborhood in the town of al-Mozeyrib, and surrounded the town. Many were killed in clashes in the area around the town and subsequently the opposition withdrew from Mozeyrib. Reportedly, an opposition IED attack on their bus, killed 15 Syrian military troops. Heavy clashes took place in Tafas, which like Mozeirab also came under heavy shelling. The Syrian military also shelled the al-Lijah area.

Deir az-Zur: The Syrian military heavily shelled the eastern districts of the city of Deir az-Zur today. The Syrian military stormed the neighborhoods of Jbeila and Ba’ajeen in the city of Deir az-Zur and carried out raids and arrests there.

The Syrian military bombarded the towns of al-Muhasan and al-Mre'iyya, causing injuries and damaging homes.

Hassakeh province: The Syrian military forces fired on civilians from checkpoints near the Masakin al-Zubbat (officers resiences) in the city of al-Qamishli, injuring civilians today.

Hama province: The Syrian military shelled the towns of Erfa and Rebda.

Homs province: Clashes raged between the opposition and the Syrian military and regime-backed militias near the villages of al-Ghasaniyya and al-Heidariyya. The Syrian military heavily shelled al-Rastan.

Idlib province: The villages of eastern Ma'arat al-Nu'man were shelled by the Syrian military and electricity has been cut off. The Syrian military shot a man from the area of Jisr al-Shughour. The Syrian military heavily shelled the town of Sarmin.

Latakia province: The opposition has learned that the Syrian state security branch in the city of Latakia detained Salim al-Rifa`i on the 20th of September, 2102 and charged him with being in contact with a terrorist organization, referring him on to Damascus. Al-Rifa`I is a humanitarian aid activist working with refugees and not a member of an armed group.

The Syrian military shelled the villages of Beit A’wan, Jabal al-Akrad, al-Khadra, al-Qneitra and Jabal al-Turkman. Heavy clashes took place in the village of al-Khadra.

Al-Raqqa province: The Hamam al-Turkman town of Reef al-Raqa was bombarded by regime forces, leading to several injuries.

Tartous province: The Syrian military have stormed through the Wata al-Bayda area in Banyas city carrying out raids and arrests.

Refugees: Syria’s refugees discuss their fear and their pain.
Photographs above and videos in the link below: http://www.sfgate.com/news/article/AP-VIDEO-Syrian-refugees-discuss-their-pain-fear-3905389.php
http://hosted.ap.org/interactives/2012/syria/

International: Ireland’s Tánaiste and Minister for Foreign Affairs Eamon Gilmore spoke to the United nations General Assembly last night and urged members of the UN Security Council to levy sanctions on the regime of Bashar al-Assad. He said the situation in Syria is “an affront to humanity” which requires a “clear and unrelenting” response. Delivering Ireland’s address to the UN General Assembly last night, http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/breaking/2012/0929/breaking1.html
Al-Arabiyya claims that secret documents show that the Syrian government executed two Turkish pilots who survived a crash on June 22, when their F-4 Phantom was shot down by Syrian military. http://english.alarabiya.net/articles/2012/09/29/240805.html