New book to add to our Iran reading list

In preparation for our tour to Iran in October, I came across a book called Persian Mirrors: The Elusive Face of Iran, by Ealine Sciolino of the New York Times. The book is based on her experiences report in and about Iran from right before the revolution in the late 1970's up to 2000 when the book was published. While it doesn't cover the most current events it is a good look at Iran and it's people, a little bit of history and the stories behind the stories. I am enjoying it quite a bit and am glad I found it!

Ramadan Karim!

This is the holy month of Ramadan for Muslims around the world. It began around August 22 and will end about September 20 (The exact dates of Islamic holidays cannot be determined in advance, due to the nature of the Islamic lunar calendar. Estimates are based on expected visibility of the hilal (waxing crescent moon following a new moon) and may vary according to location). There are many resources available on the meaning and practices during Ramadan, so I won't get into that here- and I am not an expert on the subject so a detailed explanation is best left to those who know so much more about it than me.

As we plan your tours, we will always let you know when major holidays are taking place and what to expect while traveling in the Middle East and North Africa during these times. In many of our destinations, because the populations are predominantly Muslim, there will be public observances of these holidays. Business hours are usually shorter, and sights might also have shortened hours. Keep in mind that in observance of Ramadan, people are fasting all day and it is respectful (if not mandatory in many places) to not publicly consume food or drink. Many western hotels will continue to serve food and beverages throughout the day, but you may not take food outside the hotel. This also goes for carrying around bottles of drinking water. You may have them in the car or bus, but leave them there when you get out to visit a site. In the evening, families gather to break their fast when the sun goes down, so not much will be happening during this time.

The end of Ramadan is marked with the Eid Al Fitr, a feast day to end the month, and a big celebration. We hope if you are traveling during the month of Ramadan (or any other holiday, be it Mulsim, Jewish or Christian), that you will take this opportunity to learn about this important holiday and how it is observed around the Muslim world.

Muslims in the US also observe Ramadan, which can mean that some embassies may have shorter hours and work weeks, so things like processing visas can take a little longer.

Ramadan Karim, wishing everyone a joyous, peaceful Ramadan.

Brenda

Busy Fall Season Coming Up!

As we approach our busy fall travel season, things are really starting to get busy in the office at Caravan-Serai Tours. We have a tour to Saudi Arabi (space is still available!) in September, a full tour to Iran in October, and an almost full tour to Tunisia in early October, and our ever popular Levantine Adventure Tour (a few spaces still available!) in October, as well.

As always, I will try to get posts from people while they are on the tours to post here so you can keep up with the tours as they are going on. This was really popular last fall, so we will work on keeping that going.

Also, I have started photos albums on our Facebook page - so you can go there and see numerous photos from many of the countries we have tours to, and it will be updated as new photos come in this year.

Enjoy, and as always, thanks for your support!

New Dress Code in Sharjah, UAE

Just received from our coordinator in the UAE:

"Dear Rita,
　
Please be informed that there is a new 'Dress Code' policy for all Sharjah related excursions.
　
With immediate effect, Male guests have to ensure that they are not wearing any jewellery such as earrings, bracelets, chains, necklaces, rings, etc. when going on any 'Sharjah' related excursions such as 'Sharjah-Ajman City Tour, Sharjah/Ajman Walking Tour, etc.
　
The 'Code of Conduct' from the Sharjah Government requires that the above is implemented and respected in all cases."

So please be advised, if you are traveling to the UAE and Sharjah in particular, keep this dress code in mind.

Thank you!

Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners

Below is a message we received from our coordinator in Yemen.

Dear Friends,
For some of us it’s been a while since we last wrote. We, at Al Mamoon, hope this email finds you well.

The last facts in Yemen have somehow put a distance through us. Our correspondence has slowed down and, at the end, from both sides we let silence accompany our days. Along with the dreadful news. This email is not a marketing tool and has nothing to do with our business relation. This is just an informative email to tell you that the population in Yemen is not silent. Least, passive.

Last week the Tourism Union joint hands with the Yemeni population, hotel personnel, tourism professionals in an unprecedented rally to say no to terrorism, no to innocent killings, no to violence.

Under a boiling sun, people stood with banners and flyers. Under a boiling sun, people cried their disgust to the last happenings. Under a boiling sun, people humbly moved to the German Embassy to bring flowers and pay respect. Under a boiling sun common people, soldiers, professionals and dignitaries shared their will to protect Yemen and its visitors.

We were there. And we found our friends: the guides, the drivers, colleagues of other tour operators and our next door neighbors.

Yemen hits the headline news only for the tragedies. Last week Reuters, Al Jazeera, Al Arabya and plenty of journalists were with us. Where is the news?

Attached you will find the chronicle of a touching day (Yemen Observer, 30 June). We retyped it for you.

Love and peace to all of you.

Your friends in Yemen,
Yahia, Mona and Beatrice
the Staff of Sam City Hotel
the Staff of Europcar
the Staff of Land of Two Paradise Hotel
the Guides and Drivers

****************************************************

YEMEN OBSERVER
Yemen Observer is the link between reader and news. It is the source of exclusive news, presenting facts objectively in a professional manner.
It provides the most comprehensive and accurate information for the world
Tuesday - June 30, 2009 ISSUE 52


Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners


Demonstration march under the scorching sun to the German Embassy to pay tribute to the families of the murdered foreigners. The tragic kidnapping has united all factions of Yemeni society in solidarity; condemning all acts of terrorism.


By Zaid al-Alaya'a & Mohammed al-Qiri
Yemen Observer
----------------------------------------------------

Hundreds of demonstrators representing Parliaments, travel and tourism agencies, and civil society organization marched today from al-Sab'aeen to the German Embassy to express solidarity with the kidnapped, denouncing kidnapping and terrorism. Demonstrators carried signs that condemn terrorism, killing, and kidnapping of tourists, which harms society as a whole and affects investment, development, and Yemen's image and relations with other countries. The demonstration organized by the Yemeni Union for Travel and Tourism Agencies, issued a statement that expressed deep condolences to the families of the murdered Germans and Korean. Yahya Mohammed Abdullah Saleh, chairman of the union, called on all citizens to help security authorities to put the perpetrators of murder and kidnapping to justice to get the punishment that they deserve.

"Those criminals are not targeting any people or system in particular, but they are targeting the country at large and have support from foreign forces that want to harm Yemen and stop its development," said Yahya.

He said that terrorism has no religion and no country, and that only people with deviant behavior practice terrorism. This rally that we organized today will submit a letter expressing our condolences to the German and South Korean Embassies.

"First of all, I would like to convey the deep condolences of all participants to the victims of terrorism, targeting doctors working in Sa'adah and all other victims of terrorist attacks that target tourists and foreigners working in Yemen," said Yahya. The attacks also resulted in deaths among Yemenis who have done nothing wrong but were present during the terrorist attacks.

"In this parade I call on the government to consider the murdered foreigners in Sa'adah as martyrs of duty in recognition of the great medical services they have provided to the people of Sa'adah in a period of more that 35 years," said Yahya. He also said that rally comes in solidarity with the Yemeni public, the first ones to be harmed by these terrorist attacks. The attacks aim to shake Yemen's economy, security, and stability and bar any investment or tourists from coming to Yemen.

"We are working to develop Yemen but terrorists have an outside, or maybe inside, agenda that wants the country to move backwards. These terrorists do not realize that they are harming the country at large, not just a few in particular," said Yahya. Yemen is not the property of any party or any group. It is for all Yemenis at large and every citizen has to defend it. The first victims of terrorist attacks are the public, development, security, stability but not authorities as terrorists are trying to show.

More than 55% of tourism programs in Yemen were cancelled as a result of recent terrorists' attacks; many other sectors like hotels, handicraft shops, car rental, and many other sectors have suffered great losses as a result of this more than 300,000 families, or around two million people, benefit from tourism and have suffered greatly since the recent terrorists attacks. Terrorists who dare to commit such acts have no morals, no feelings, and only aim to defame the reputation of Yemen. Security and the army can not protect the country's stability alone, but all citizens and all people in Yemen have to stand against any calls for violence. Citizens of Sa'adah have to report to the authorities with any information that can lead to the whereabouts of the kidnapped.

Abdu al-Hothefi, MP Head of the tourism Committee in Parliament, said that these acts do not belong to Yemeni Culture that has always been, and will always be, tolerant and peaceful. The demonstrators walked to the premises of the German Embassy and presented flowers and a statement from the organizers and participants to show their condemnation of the murders and kidnapping, calling upon Yemeni security forces to hunt down the terrorists and kidnappers.
"I call on all people in Yemen at large to stand against all destructive forces in Yemen that aim to distort the image of Yemen, its economy, stability and security. Tourism is one of the main source of revenues for the country and the source of income to a large number of people in Yemen, but such acts deprive a lot of people of their means of living.

We all have to work to protect this industry and take strict measures against all those who try to harm this sector," said al-Hothefi. MP Osman Mujali said, "We denounce this behavior which contradicts Yemen's traditions. This country is known for honoring guests and welcoming all people, but unfortunately this is a terrorist act which is supported by terrorists and damages the country's reputation, security, and economy."

Mo'mar al -Eryani, the General Yemeni Youth condemn this cowardly act that targets not only the foreigners, but all Yemenis and the country in general. The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Abdul-Jabbar Saeed, said that they demand that the authorities track down all criminals and terrorists and refer them immediately to justice to face the penalty for their crimes.
The Children's parliament Member Safa al-Watari, said "There are people who devote themselves to hostility because they are far from principles and are deprived of humanitarian values and ethics. They have used the children as a way to express the malice and hatred hidden inside them, seeking to destroy the children's future." She said that she calls upon the government and all parties to punish those who use children to carry out their subversive agendas for damaging the community's stability.

Beatrice de Filippis of al-Mamoon Intl. Tours said that her heart is broken twice, as a European she stands in solidarity with the Europeans, while her heart also cries for Yemenis because these actions affect the reputation of Yemen in the rest of the world. She went on saying, "I am a European woman working in a humanitarian field, trying to defend the Yemeni people who were described by their prophet as kind hearted people." Miss Fillippis added that those people who committed these actions are not normal people, but people who are against all laws and rules.
Airline representative Fahd al-Ariqi said that the airlines are the sector most affected by these terrorist actions, leading to decrease in airline passenger numbers and trips.

Photos of Israel

Jerusalem, Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock in the background

Photos courtesy of Mark Schaeffer - Thanks Mark!

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, the Silver Star marking the place of Christ's birth.

Masada

Reflections on a tour of Israel

When I decided to go to Israel on my own, I wanted to work with a travel agent who was well acquainted with the country and could match me with the right private driver/guide to take me around the country. I found Rita and Caravan-Serai Tours in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.

I contacted Rita and told her the many places that I wanted to see in Israel and that I wanted to have a private guide with me. I needed a guide who intimately knew the area and shortcuts to get me to each of the numerous sights I wanted to visit during my week in Israel. Rita made innumerable suggestions about my proposed itinerary and answered my countless questions about planning my trip. With her vast familiarity with Israel, she was able to arrange my schedule in a way that allowed me to maximize my time in Israel.

After Rita and I finalized my itinerary, I felt confident and assured that I my trip would go smoothly in Israel. I arrived in Israel and met the guide that Rita had arranged for me. As I quickly observed, he was an encyclopedia of knowledge about Israel and very enthusiastic. He was well prepared with my itinerary, knowing exactly what I wanted to see and how to get me from place to place. He was the perfect fit for me.

We started my first day in Israel at the famed Dead Sea. No trip to Israel would be complete without the obligatory dip and float in the Dead Sea. Due to its very high saline content, you truly float - without any effort - in this Sea.

On my second day, we drove a short distance from the Dead Sea to fabled Masada - the mountain fortress overlooking the Dead Sea. We took a glorious cable car ride up to Masada and toured the ruins. My guide was wonderful at explaining the history of Masada.
From Masada, we drove to the nearby Qumran caves. The Dead Sea scrolls were discovered among the 13 caves. The view of the caves is quite stunning. The surrounding Judean desert has so many fascinating shapes and curves.

We then drove towards Jerusalem and I visited Bethlehem. Regardless of your religion, it is hard not to appreciate the passion and religious fervor as you observe the worshipers at the Church of the Nativity and the Silver Star inside that marks the birthplace of Jesus Christ. The faithful kiss the Star and bring items to be blessed by touching the Star. I then walked through Manger Square and around the corner to the Milk Grotto - where a drop of milk supposedly fell from Mary while she was nursing the baby Jesus - which turned the Grotto white.

From Bethlehem, we drove approximately 10 minutes into Jerusalem and began the first of three sightseeing days in Jerusalem.

I stayed at the landmark King David Hotel in Jerusalem. My room had a magnificent view of the walled old city of Jerusalem and the Tower of David. The King David has been the resting spot of many a dignitary and celebrity. There is even a walking hall of fame of sorts in the lobby. Queen Elizabeth is one of the few who have signed their name on the floor. The walls are filled with photographs of some of the famous who have stayed there. The King David is well-located, it’s a lovely and short walk to the heart of Jerusalem.

Of course, Jerusalem is a very important sight to three of the world’s important monotheistic religions. The Dome of the Rock is considered the third most highly sight in Islam - from where Muhammed ascended to heaven one night. Its glittering gold dome can be seen from far away and is one of the most photographed sights in Jerusalem. The Dome of the Chain with its fine tile work stands right next to the Dome of the Rock, as does the nearby Al Aqsa mosque. For Christians, walking the 14 stations of the cross along the Via Dolorosa to the sight of Jesus’ crucifixion and Jesus’ tomb inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a religious experience. Of course, the Western Wall is the holiest of sights in Judaism. It is the only standing remnant of the Second Temple. I saw all of these places.

My guide even surprised me by taking me to the Western Wall on Thursday morning, when bar mitzvahs take place there. That was quite a spectacle. There were about 50 or so separate bar mitzvah ceremonies simultaneously occurring side by side. Seeing the ceremonial dress and the torah reading and the passion of the people was quite moving.

An early visit morning to the Mount of Olives area is essential. From there, you can see the sun shining on the old part of Jerusalem. The panoramic view of the entire walled city is gorgeous and makes for good photographs too. In the Mount of Olives, I saw the Mosque of the Ascension, where Jesus’ footprint is still visible. I saw the golden onion-shaped spires of the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, visited the Dominus Flevit church, toured the Garden of Gethsemane, viewed the very large Jewish Cemetery, and paid tribute to Mary at her tomb.

Inside the walled old city of Jerusalem, we stopped at the Mount Zion area to see King David’s tomb, which is draped in a purple cloth. I also walked in the room of the Last Supper, with its gorgeous vaulting arches. No trip to Mount Zion would be complete without a visit to Oskar Schindler’s tomb, which is still covered with pebbles and small rocks from Steven Spielberg’s film.

While I had heard and read much of the "division" of the old part of Jerusalem into the Arab, Jewish, Christian, and Armenian quarters, I thoroughly enjoyed walking in all the quarters. From looking for unusual buys in the Arab souqs to watching traditionally-dressed Orthodox Jews, the entire area was in a word - fascinating.

Outside of the walled old city, I also visited Yad Vashem, a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. I also saw some of the Dead Sea scrolls and one of the jars in which some scrolls were discovered, on display at the Book of the Shrine at the Israel Museum. The Book of the Shrine is white and shaped in the form of the lid of the jar. I toured the Knesset, which is the home to the Israeli parliament; watched the Israel Supreme Court hear a case in its impressive building in which all the light comes from the outside; and saw Marc Chagall’s 12 glorious stained-glass windows at the Hadassah center and hospital.

From Jerusalem, I went to Tel Aviv for two days. The contrast from the old and traditional in Jerusalem to the new and hip in Tel Aviv was striking. Tel Aviv is lined along the Mediterranean Sea and the beach helps define the city. Jaffa is in the southern part of Tel Aviv and is a walking tribute to the past. It hold much history and is a fun place to walk through its narrow pedestrian-only walkways. Jaffa is slightly elevated and provides lovely views of Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean Sea.

From Tel Aviv, I took easy day trips to Caesarea, Akko, and Haifa. I toured the beach aqueduct and the ruins in Caesarea. The hippodrome there is a must. The ancient city of Akko was a photographer’s dream - it is filled with old structures, arches, and all sorts of interesting shapes that enhance photographs. Haifa is Israel’s third largest city. A visit to the Bahai Gardens and the Bab of the Shrine is a must. The Gardens escalate along a hill and are immaculate. I thoroughly enjoyed my walking tour of the Gardens from the top of the hill down the terraced gardens until I reached the beautiful domed Bab of the Shrine.

My week in Israel was everything that I had hoped for and more. My guide brought history to life for me and ensured that I saw everything that I wanted to see. He knew the best times of the day to visit and photograph the many sights that I saw. For this, I sincerely thank Rita and her wonderful crew at Caravan-Serai.

I look forward to future trips made possible by Rita and Caravan-Serai.

(Note: This entry was written for us by Mark Schaeffer, a client who has recently returned from his tour of Israel. Thank you Mark for your post!)