Monday, October 29, 2012

Dosvedanya, Azerbaijan!

After just a few days, I know that Azerbaijan is a land of many contrasts. It has a long and varied history, has been part of the Persian empire and the Soviet Union with remnants of both still evident as well as many other invaders in between. The Azeri language is a Turkic language but Russian is widely understood.

The Russians and Soviets have left their  mark on this tiny Caucasus country. They invaded and stole or destroyed precious works of art, destroyed culturally significant buildings, and pushed religion out of public life. But without this influence, Azerbaijan would not be what it is today and could easily have gone down the same path as Iran in the late 1970's.

You can see the Persian influence in the architecture of the historical palaces and other monuments as well as in the people themselves. We visited the Sheki Khan Palace today and it is very similar to the palaces we saw in Iran. From the exterior craftsmanship to the interior decoration, they are very similar. We saw the same use of the lion as a representation of the king as we did in Iran.

We saw the bustling modern city of Baku which was host to an international car race, is crammed with new construction but has the old heart of the city where you can wander the cobbled streets and see the old walls that used to encompass the city and protect it from invaders.

The natural history of the area is very interesting too. The museum at Gobustan has a really instructive museum with displays about the evolution that has taken place over the millennia. The sea level has risen and fallen numerous times providing plenty of sandstone and limestone for modern construction and providing the mechanism to filter water naturally for the city of Baku. There are no other fresh water sources except the ground water that filters through the rock.

This has also left Azerbaijan with an oil resource that is now helping to modernize the country. The former president Haydar Ilyev is credited with signing the Contract of the Century with The big oil companies to really develop the oil industry.

In the 19th century there was an oil industry that was very unregulated leading to the rise in power of the oil barons. When the Bolsheviks came in the early 1900's, they took everything from these oil barons including their businesses, their homes, everything. Our guide says many of them died - of a heart attack over losing everything. So the oil industry was nationalized but everything went to Moscow. When Azerbaijan became independent that maintained the nationalized oil industry but now the money is used to the benefit of Azerbaijan.

We have now entered Georgia, and my first impression is that the people are very much like the Lebanese in that they have endured so much through occupation and oppression, civil war, and revolution, yet they have an incredible zest for life. They have not let the conflicts and threats from inside or outside the country dampen their spirit. They also reside next to countries that sent like each other (Armenia and Azerbaijan), but they get along with both.

So more on Georgia tomorrow! I will also try to get some photos in here too.

Brenda

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Isfahan - Part 2

The final installment from Isfahan - enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350755218/tpod.html

Isfahan - Part 1

Isfahan was one of my favorite stops when I visited Iran a few years ago. It's an amazing city (even if the river has been diverted for the subway construction!) and there is so much to see and do there. Every tour we do includes time in Isfahan.

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350627064/tpod.html

Friday, October 19, 2012

Update from Rita on the situation in Aleppo


I talked to family again today in Aleppo to see how they were doing.  They were telling me that we don't even hear half the news of what is happening in the city.

Some of the hospitals are open - the public ones and also the private hospitals - but they do not have enough doctors that are working in them.  One of the reasons is that doctors have been singled out by the government for helping the other side. They have been targeted, so the ones that could leave have left to the US or Canada with their families. Some have come back to the region and are working in the border towns if they can.

I asked them if someone had to go to the hospital as an emergency is that possible? They say yes, but you still need to go through a lot of check points and you are not sure who is manning each check point.  If you tell them you are going to the hospital you will be interrogated to find out why, what happened, etc- so you might be there for a couple of hours explaining and the person you are taking could be dying.  If you get hurt by a sniper and are taken in by a relative or a friend the same thing will happen but it can get worst since they will want to know where you were when it happened and why you were there and whose side are you on, etc.

My cousin was telling me that about 1/2 million residents of Aleppo are displaced and living either with friends or family, in the streets, or in front of buildings.  They had to leave their homes since they were in areas of bombing and they wanted to protect their families.  They now have a hard time in returning.  There is still about 80% of the population of Aleppo still in their homes in the area outside the center in the newer areas of the city.  Pretty much the old part of the city, the Christian quarter, and the Armenia quarter have all been hit and people have moved out of there.  The old homes that had been redone as hotels for tourism are being used by the rebel forces as strongholds, so these historic hotels get targets and an immense amount of destruction has taken place.

The historic Baron Hotel has been hit hard. The tourist hotel in the middle of downtown and the Amira hotel have been destroyed.  The stories of destruction in the old quarter go on and on.  These are the parts of the city that so much money had been spend on to rebuild the old Islamic structures and get the vibrant part of the old city going again, and now they are in ruins.  Aleppo was part of a project that has been going on for years to preserve old Islamic buildings. The architects that were working on this have received numerous awards for their work.  One of them is my ex-husband, and I am so sorry that this is happening since he and so many people had put so much time and blood and tears to do this work and now in just 18 months most of it has been destroyed.  It will never go back to the way it was.  It will be rebuilt like Beirut was after its civil war and most of it will be high rises, but where will the people be and how will they be emotional and physically?  The traumatic effects of war on any person is long lasting and the worst effect is on the children who will be the new generation that will be running this country- how much hate and grief will they have?  How long will the memories last? Look at what Hafiz the father of Bashar did back in the mid 70's and 80's and the destruction of Hama - those are the people now that are fighting Bashar since they remember their parents, brothers and sisters, etc that were killed, where in one day Hafez came and destroyed Hama and killed 20,000 people.
Rita Zawaideh

Yazd and the road to Isfahan

Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, Fire Temples, Water Museum, and more from Yazd. Enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350495987/tpod.html

Persepolis to Yazd

Persepolis, Naghsh e Rostam, Pasargadae, and then on to Yazd. Enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lawyerchick92/3/1350409556/tpod.html