Photos from Iran Tour

Here are a few photos taken on our way to Yazd, and once we arrive there in the evening. I will have some more and also post a link to my Picasa Web Album so you can see more photos.

A local stopping to check us out as we stop at the 4200 year old cypress tree on the way to Yazd.


Our hotel in Yazd- the Moshir Garden Hotel- a beautiful place! Gardens and fountains everywhere!

Water cisitern near Yazd.

Ice house - this bee hive structure covers a deep pit that, in the winter, would have water added slowly as it froze to make a huge block of ice. It would stay cold enough to provide ice through spring and into early summer.

Alexander's Prison in Yazd.

Saying goodbye to Isfahan

Here we are on the last full night in Iran. It is time to head back to Tehran to catch out flights home to the US tomorrow night. And I find that I really have learned so much and enjoyed this tour far more than I ever could have imagined. Iran is an amazing country to say the least and the people are friendly and just as interested in us as we are in in them.



A few things happened today to remind me of that. In the main square boys riding in the horse drawn carriages would wave at us and hope we would take their picture. Families visiting the square would watch us pass by then smile and wave or say hello. When we were visiting the river bank to see one of several majestic bridges in the city, two men riding bikes by us suddenly stopped and asked on of the group if he would pose in a photo with them taken with their camera (I got a photo too, so we would have a copy as well!). The woman who is in charge of the computers at the Abassi Hotel learned a new term from another of our group today - she asked for his signature on the interent usage bill and he called it his John Hancock, which required explanation. Now she is trying to use the term with all the Americans she talks to today - please bive me your John Hancock on this bill! Yesterday she said something was "cool", when I was talking to her.



And for all the talk of sanctions, well, just take that collander you might have in your kitchen and try to fill it with water - that is about how effective the sancations are to the average Iranian. Where it is hurting them is in things like no spare airplane parts for their domestic fleet - not a pleasant thought at all! We all have changed money here mostly at the start of the trip, only to find that almost everything can be paid for in dollars and change often given in dollars. ALmost like Lebanon where the conversion and acceptance of the US dollar is prevelant and there is almost no need to exchange money. Maybe a few of the vendors in small out of the way shops might prefer rials, but that's about it.



The food has been very good to excellent. Fish is much more common here than I expected as well as shrimp dishes. Fresh water and farmed fish, as well as seafood from the Gulf are available throughout the country. Of course we often had what became known as "very special chicken kebab" but also mutton and beef dishes were available. My favorite so far is a chicken dish with pomegranite paste and ground walnuts over rice- yum! Lots of stews and grilled meats, rice in a variety of styles, and soups. The best being the barley tomato soup. Safron ice cream is a treat too, and we had that several times for desert. Food was never in short supply on this tour and I know that we all probably ate too much! It will be time to hit the gym when I get home!



Once back home I will have more to write, and go over the tour some more and the sights we have seen. Now its time to go rearrange my luggage and make sure I can fit everything in my bags and get them on the airplane! Oh boy. I still have pistachios to buy- the best pistachios come from Iran- I don't care what the California nut people say with their odd new commercials!

Isfahan, city of poets and engineers

Here we are in the beautiful city of Isfahan, recently designated as the Islamic Cultural Capital of the World. While it has many amazing works of Islamic architecture and the population is predominanlty Muslim, we visited the Armenian quarter today and the Vank Cathedral. On the way to and from this church, we passed at least 2 synagogues.

The highlight of the day, however, was the Blue Mosque. It is a georgeous mosque with striking blue tile work all throughout. Our local guide, who is also a poet and an engineer, gave a great presentation on the history of the building and a demonstration of the accoustics. Being an engineer he came prepared with a diagram of sound waves and the effect of them bouncing off the dome at various angles - it really was very interesting and informative, and to further demonstrated the sound carrying qualities, he recited a poem. After he was done, a young man applauded him with us then apparently offered to also demonstrate the accoustics of the building by singing- turns out he was a very well known vocalist who also happened to be visiting the mosque. In just a few seconds the small crowd that had gathered to watch and hear our guide's presentation quadrupled in size when the Iranians visitng realized who was now singing! There were probably a hundred cameras all pointed to the center of our circle we had formed. It was really quite a treat and very amazing. Even our guide, who was quite humbled to see this man ( I forget his name now!) was excited to have him participate in the demonstration. I noticed he made a phone call to someone and held the phone out to capture the singer's voice - probably calling a friend and saying "you won't believe who is here at the mosque with us right now!".

I really wish I could download the photos from my camera but I don't have the right cord so the photos will have to wait until I get home. The sights we have seen the last week and a half have been amazing- ancient Persian to more recent sites and sounds. It is hard sometimes to wrap my head around the expanse of Persian history. And many things which we have thought of in the west as Arab, actually came from Persia. I just learned today the Sheherazad and 1001 Nights is originally a Persian tale! Chess and Backgammon - not Arab, but Persian! And there is more.

I really wish that more Americans could see and experience this things we have done on this trip - particularly our elected officials and diplomats. I am glad we have moved away from the previous administration's policy of not talking at all to Iran, but our two countries actually have many shared interests (opium from Afghanistan is a huge problem in Iran, for example) that it would make more sense to be allies rather than enemies. We have much in common, too. And both have much to learn from each other. And as allies it would be much easier to reslove the nuke issues.

OK, more to come later, and I will definitely do a recap once I get home. There is so much going on that I can only sit here for a few minutes and give you a brief picture of what we have done and my impressions for the day. I hope to be able to give a more thorough picture of the tour and our experiences once I am at home with unlimited computer time. Bye for now!

Shiraz is not just a kind of wine!

Hello from the beautiful city of Shiraz! This is the city of poetry, celebration, gardens, and more. It was once the capitol of the Persian Empire before it was moved to Tehran. We have been seeinf some really amazing sights on this tour. From Kermanshah where I last checked in, We have seen palaces and temples, shrines and mosques. The main highlights of our visit in Ahwaz, a city in the southwest of Iran, are the sites of Susa and Shushtar, and a Temple of Anahita. We also visited another Jewish sight at the Tomb of Daniel, in Susa. The tomb is revered by both Jews and Muslims, who visit it as a pilgrimage sight. On the day of our visit there were many people there as it was a Friday. The women and men enter through separate entrances to view the tomb, pray, wish for blessings from the prophet Daniel, and reflect.

Ahwaz is in the oil center of Iran. We passed by numerous refineries and pipelines and noted that while Iran has no shortage of oil and deisel (which it exports to Iraq) there is a shortage of gasoline for cars. There is a push to get more vehicles converted to CNG or LPG, and in several cities we have encountered congestion due to massive construction projects for new subways and other infrastructure. Gas is rationed based on the type of car you own, so for your ration you would pay only about $.16 per gallon (or maybe its liter, but still it is very cheap!). Once you run out of your ration of gas then you pay market price which is similar to what we pay in the US per gallon.

Speaking of similar to the US, it is really amazing how many similarities there are between Iran and the US, and how little we as Americans know if these things. Speed traps are common on the highways- something I think most Americans can relate too! Also, there isn't universal health care in Iran, but they do have a system to help those who cannot afford their own insurance. Liability insurance is mandatory for all car owners. Unrationed gas costs the same in Iran as it does in the US.

SOme other little known facts we have picked up over the last several days - chess, backgammon, and polo come from Persia. Thursday night is wedding party night. Coincidentaly, Thursday is also funeral day. Thursday is actually treated like Saturday is in the US. People are off of work or only work a very short day, then they spend the rest of the day and Friday with friends and family. Many take the opporunity to get out of the cities and get some fresh air in the country.

Cyrus the Great made the first declaration of human rights law, dictating how prisoners of war were to be treated, how people of other religions were to be treated - which he declared they were to be allowed to practice their religion without hassle. The Jews looked on him as a liberator after he freed them from Nebakenezer (sp?).

There are still many nomads in Iran and they have become an integral part of the economy. So much so that the government provides them with mobile health clinics and teachers. The nomads provide meat and other products from their sheep and goats. We had the opportunity to visit a nomad tent the other day, which was a really great experience. We watched the woman baking bread which she was kind enough to give us a taste of and it was great! The kids were about as fascinated with us as we were with them.

On the whole, we have been really well received and people are always eager to talk to us. Many people speak Englsih extremely well. We had a local guide the last 2 days in Shiraz and her name is Niloufar. She was excellent and gave everyone another opportunity to ask questions about women in Iran and how they are treated and must act. Quite interesting! More on that in another post!

OK, well, I think I need to try and get into my email again. The interent has been somewhat challenging here, but no less than expected. I can log into Blogspot, but sometimes not Yahoo email. I have yet to get into Facebook, no surprise there! Hopefully we will have internet access in Yazd or Isfahan.

More to come!

Darius, Xerxes, Achemedes, and more...

OK, if I didn't spell them all correctly, my apologies! It has been another full day of sightseeing as we continue our adventure in Iran. Yesterday we departed Tehran for Hamadan, which is a great city nestled up to the Zagros Mountains. We drove through some amazing landscapes, and the mountains here are really high! One pass we went over on the way was over 9,000 ft - just about where people start to feel really dingy from the altitude. Luckly we didn't stay at that elevation for very long and descended into the valley and Hamadan.

Our visits included the tomb of Ester and Mordechai, in a synagogue. Yes, there is a Jewish population as well as a Christian population in Iran. They are allowed to worship freely and in Tehran we passed several churches. While the numbers are small, they are not harrassed and there are places where on one block there might be a church on one corner, a mosque on another and a synagogue on another corner.

Today we learned a little bit about pre-Islamic Persia and the various kingdoms that shaped the empire. From archelogical digs in Hamadan, to viewing bas- reliefs carved into the mountainside and depicting the coronation of the a king with the blessing of the god Ahuramazda, the history of this country before Islam is very complex, rich, and interesting. We will be seeing many more pre-Islamic sites over the next several days, and I can't wait. Persia was a powerful and far-reaching empire at it's peak.

OK, time in the computer is at a premium, and people are waiting so I need to cut this short. To sum up our tour so far, it has been amazing, and we have been welcomed by the people we meet, and also met with as much curiosity about us as we have about the Iranian people, their culture and their country. I hope this will help to dispell some misperceptions people have about Iran. It is a wonderful country to visit and I highly recommend it!

Hopefully I will get some photos up when I have more time, otherwise it will have to wait and I will post them at the end of the trip.

More to come later! If anyone has any questions or comments, you can post them here!

Amazing start to the tour

OK, back from dinner at the hotel (I am really glad we ate at the hotel tonight rather than a restaurant!) and I am about ready to fall asleep. But first, I have to write about our first day in Tehran. We went to the Golestan Papace and Museum complex. WOW! The artwork and the ornateness are very impressive. The tile and stone work in particular are really amazing. The palace was definitely built to impress. I cannot give any historical information here as my brain is getting ready to go to sleep, but the buildings are not that old by the standards in Iran - only a couple hundred years old!

We had lunch at a night typical restaurant and the food was delicious! Next stop, after driving by the old American embassy, we visited the National Bank and the special vault below that holds the crown jewels and other items from the monarchy. If you have ever seen the crown jewels in London, or the Hope Diamond, or anything like that, it doesn't even come close to what we saw today. The collection is simply amazing to the point of mind boggling when you think of the quantity and value of the pieces in this collection. But all were very beautiful and many were ornated and intricate so you have to appreciate the craftsmanship involved as well as the gems and monetary value. So many pieces, from crowns, daggers, scepters, buttons, sashes, and of course the Peacock Throne and the globe made from diamonds, rubies, emeralds. And it is huge- at least 24 inches in diameter! This is only a small fraction of what is on display, and it is well worth it to make the time to visit the crown jewels.

Tomorrow we leave Tehran for Hamadan, and hopefully I can post again from there. Now it is off to get some sleep for me! Maybe I will have dreams of tiaras with giant rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and pearls!

More later!

Live, from Tehran!

We made it to Tehran very late last night and after extensive formalities, we left the airport and went to the hotel. Check in went quickly and smoothly and everyone got settled in their rooms for what remained of the night. Everyone on our flight was very tired but also excited to have finally arrived in Tehran.

We are about to go out on our first sightseeing tour in Tehran and will be seeing the Golestan Palace which I have heard is fabulous! I am sure the photos I have seen don't do it justice, and I will report more later today when we get back. I will also try to get photos uploaded once in a while, too.

Ok, since this is the first post there isn't much to report but everyone has been very nice and helpful here at the Laleh Hotel!

More later!

Brenda

New book to add to our Iran reading list

In preparation for our tour to Iran in October, I came across a book called Persian Mirrors: The Elusive Face of Iran, by Ealine Sciolino of the New York Times. The book is based on her experiences report in and about Iran from right before the revolution in the late 1970's up to 2000 when the book was published. While it doesn't cover the most current events it is a good look at Iran and it's people, a little bit of history and the stories behind the stories. I am enjoying it quite a bit and am glad I found it!

Ramadan Karim!

This is the holy month of Ramadan for Muslims around the world. It began around August 22 and will end about September 20 (The exact dates of Islamic holidays cannot be determined in advance, due to the nature of the Islamic lunar calendar. Estimates are based on expected visibility of the hilal (waxing crescent moon following a new moon) and may vary according to location). There are many resources available on the meaning and practices during Ramadan, so I won't get into that here- and I am not an expert on the subject so a detailed explanation is best left to those who know so much more about it than me.

As we plan your tours, we will always let you know when major holidays are taking place and what to expect while traveling in the Middle East and North Africa during these times. In many of our destinations, because the populations are predominantly Muslim, there will be public observances of these holidays. Business hours are usually shorter, and sights might also have shortened hours. Keep in mind that in observance of Ramadan, people are fasting all day and it is respectful (if not mandatory in many places) to not publicly consume food or drink. Many western hotels will continue to serve food and beverages throughout the day, but you may not take food outside the hotel. This also goes for carrying around bottles of drinking water. You may have them in the car or bus, but leave them there when you get out to visit a site. In the evening, families gather to break their fast when the sun goes down, so not much will be happening during this time.

The end of Ramadan is marked with the Eid Al Fitr, a feast day to end the month, and a big celebration. We hope if you are traveling during the month of Ramadan (or any other holiday, be it Mulsim, Jewish or Christian), that you will take this opportunity to learn about this important holiday and how it is observed around the Muslim world.

Muslims in the US also observe Ramadan, which can mean that some embassies may have shorter hours and work weeks, so things like processing visas can take a little longer.

Ramadan Karim, wishing everyone a joyous, peaceful Ramadan.

Brenda

Busy Fall Season Coming Up!

As we approach our busy fall travel season, things are really starting to get busy in the office at Caravan-Serai Tours. We have a tour to Saudi Arabi (space is still available!) in September, a full tour to Iran in October, and an almost full tour to Tunisia in early October, and our ever popular Levantine Adventure Tour (a few spaces still available!) in October, as well.

As always, I will try to get posts from people while they are on the tours to post here so you can keep up with the tours as they are going on. This was really popular last fall, so we will work on keeping that going.

Also, I have started photos albums on our Facebook page - so you can go there and see numerous photos from many of the countries we have tours to, and it will be updated as new photos come in this year.

Enjoy, and as always, thanks for your support!

New Dress Code in Sharjah, UAE

Just received from our coordinator in the UAE:

"Dear Rita,
　
Please be informed that there is a new 'Dress Code' policy for all Sharjah related excursions.
　
With immediate effect, Male guests have to ensure that they are not wearing any jewellery such as earrings, bracelets, chains, necklaces, rings, etc. when going on any 'Sharjah' related excursions such as 'Sharjah-Ajman City Tour, Sharjah/Ajman Walking Tour, etc.
　
The 'Code of Conduct' from the Sharjah Government requires that the above is implemented and respected in all cases."

So please be advised, if you are traveling to the UAE and Sharjah in particular, keep this dress code in mind.

Thank you!

Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners

Below is a message we received from our coordinator in Yemen.

Dear Friends,
For some of us it’s been a while since we last wrote. We, at Al Mamoon, hope this email finds you well.

The last facts in Yemen have somehow put a distance through us. Our correspondence has slowed down and, at the end, from both sides we let silence accompany our days. Along with the dreadful news. This email is not a marketing tool and has nothing to do with our business relation. This is just an informative email to tell you that the population in Yemen is not silent. Least, passive.

Last week the Tourism Union joint hands with the Yemeni population, hotel personnel, tourism professionals in an unprecedented rally to say no to terrorism, no to innocent killings, no to violence.

Under a boiling sun, people stood with banners and flyers. Under a boiling sun, people cried their disgust to the last happenings. Under a boiling sun, people humbly moved to the German Embassy to bring flowers and pay respect. Under a boiling sun common people, soldiers, professionals and dignitaries shared their will to protect Yemen and its visitors.

We were there. And we found our friends: the guides, the drivers, colleagues of other tour operators and our next door neighbors.

Yemen hits the headline news only for the tragedies. Last week Reuters, Al Jazeera, Al Arabya and plenty of journalists were with us. Where is the news?

Attached you will find the chronicle of a touching day (Yemen Observer, 30 June). We retyped it for you.

Love and peace to all of you.

Your friends in Yemen,
Yahia, Mona and Beatrice
the Staff of Sam City Hotel
the Staff of Europcar
the Staff of Land of Two Paradise Hotel
the Guides and Drivers

****************************************************

YEMEN OBSERVER
Yemen Observer is the link between reader and news. It is the source of exclusive news, presenting facts objectively in a professional manner.
It provides the most comprehensive and accurate information for the world
Tuesday - June 30, 2009 ISSUE 52


Hundreds in Yemen rally to denounce kidnapping and killing of foreigners


Demonstration march under the scorching sun to the German Embassy to pay tribute to the families of the murdered foreigners. The tragic kidnapping has united all factions of Yemeni society in solidarity; condemning all acts of terrorism.


By Zaid al-Alaya'a & Mohammed al-Qiri
Yemen Observer
----------------------------------------------------

Hundreds of demonstrators representing Parliaments, travel and tourism agencies, and civil society organization marched today from al-Sab'aeen to the German Embassy to express solidarity with the kidnapped, denouncing kidnapping and terrorism. Demonstrators carried signs that condemn terrorism, killing, and kidnapping of tourists, which harms society as a whole and affects investment, development, and Yemen's image and relations with other countries. The demonstration organized by the Yemeni Union for Travel and Tourism Agencies, issued a statement that expressed deep condolences to the families of the murdered Germans and Korean. Yahya Mohammed Abdullah Saleh, chairman of the union, called on all citizens to help security authorities to put the perpetrators of murder and kidnapping to justice to get the punishment that they deserve.

"Those criminals are not targeting any people or system in particular, but they are targeting the country at large and have support from foreign forces that want to harm Yemen and stop its development," said Yahya.

He said that terrorism has no religion and no country, and that only people with deviant behavior practice terrorism. This rally that we organized today will submit a letter expressing our condolences to the German and South Korean Embassies.

"First of all, I would like to convey the deep condolences of all participants to the victims of terrorism, targeting doctors working in Sa'adah and all other victims of terrorist attacks that target tourists and foreigners working in Yemen," said Yahya. The attacks also resulted in deaths among Yemenis who have done nothing wrong but were present during the terrorist attacks.

"In this parade I call on the government to consider the murdered foreigners in Sa'adah as martyrs of duty in recognition of the great medical services they have provided to the people of Sa'adah in a period of more that 35 years," said Yahya. He also said that rally comes in solidarity with the Yemeni public, the first ones to be harmed by these terrorist attacks. The attacks aim to shake Yemen's economy, security, and stability and bar any investment or tourists from coming to Yemen.

"We are working to develop Yemen but terrorists have an outside, or maybe inside, agenda that wants the country to move backwards. These terrorists do not realize that they are harming the country at large, not just a few in particular," said Yahya. Yemen is not the property of any party or any group. It is for all Yemenis at large and every citizen has to defend it. The first victims of terrorist attacks are the public, development, security, stability but not authorities as terrorists are trying to show.

More than 55% of tourism programs in Yemen were cancelled as a result of recent terrorists' attacks; many other sectors like hotels, handicraft shops, car rental, and many other sectors have suffered great losses as a result of this more than 300,000 families, or around two million people, benefit from tourism and have suffered greatly since the recent terrorists attacks. Terrorists who dare to commit such acts have no morals, no feelings, and only aim to defame the reputation of Yemen. Security and the army can not protect the country's stability alone, but all citizens and all people in Yemen have to stand against any calls for violence. Citizens of Sa'adah have to report to the authorities with any information that can lead to the whereabouts of the kidnapped.

Abdu al-Hothefi, MP Head of the tourism Committee in Parliament, said that these acts do not belong to Yemeni Culture that has always been, and will always be, tolerant and peaceful. The demonstrators walked to the premises of the German Embassy and presented flowers and a statement from the organizers and participants to show their condemnation of the murders and kidnapping, calling upon Yemeni security forces to hunt down the terrorists and kidnappers.
"I call on all people in Yemen at large to stand against all destructive forces in Yemen that aim to distort the image of Yemen, its economy, stability and security. Tourism is one of the main source of revenues for the country and the source of income to a large number of people in Yemen, but such acts deprive a lot of people of their means of living.

We all have to work to protect this industry and take strict measures against all those who try to harm this sector," said al-Hothefi. MP Osman Mujali said, "We denounce this behavior which contradicts Yemen's traditions. This country is known for honoring guests and welcoming all people, but unfortunately this is a terrorist act which is supported by terrorists and damages the country's reputation, security, and economy."

Mo'mar al -Eryani, the General Yemeni Youth condemn this cowardly act that targets not only the foreigners, but all Yemenis and the country in general. The Deputy Minister of Tourism, Abdul-Jabbar Saeed, said that they demand that the authorities track down all criminals and terrorists and refer them immediately to justice to face the penalty for their crimes.
The Children's parliament Member Safa al-Watari, said "There are people who devote themselves to hostility because they are far from principles and are deprived of humanitarian values and ethics. They have used the children as a way to express the malice and hatred hidden inside them, seeking to destroy the children's future." She said that she calls upon the government and all parties to punish those who use children to carry out their subversive agendas for damaging the community's stability.

Beatrice de Filippis of al-Mamoon Intl. Tours said that her heart is broken twice, as a European she stands in solidarity with the Europeans, while her heart also cries for Yemenis because these actions affect the reputation of Yemen in the rest of the world. She went on saying, "I am a European woman working in a humanitarian field, trying to defend the Yemeni people who were described by their prophet as kind hearted people." Miss Fillippis added that those people who committed these actions are not normal people, but people who are against all laws and rules.
Airline representative Fahd al-Ariqi said that the airlines are the sector most affected by these terrorist actions, leading to decrease in airline passenger numbers and trips.

Photos of Israel

Jerusalem, Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock in the background

Photos courtesy of Mark Schaeffer - Thanks Mark!

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

Inside the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, the Silver Star marking the place of Christ's birth.

Masada

Reflections on a tour of Israel

When I decided to go to Israel on my own, I wanted to work with a travel agent who was well acquainted with the country and could match me with the right private driver/guide to take me around the country. I found Rita and Caravan-Serai Tours in Conde Nast Traveler Magazine.

I contacted Rita and told her the many places that I wanted to see in Israel and that I wanted to have a private guide with me. I needed a guide who intimately knew the area and shortcuts to get me to each of the numerous sights I wanted to visit during my week in Israel. Rita made innumerable suggestions about my proposed itinerary and answered my countless questions about planning my trip. With her vast familiarity with Israel, she was able to arrange my schedule in a way that allowed me to maximize my time in Israel.

After Rita and I finalized my itinerary, I felt confident and assured that I my trip would go smoothly in Israel. I arrived in Israel and met the guide that Rita had arranged for me. As I quickly observed, he was an encyclopedia of knowledge about Israel and very enthusiastic. He was well prepared with my itinerary, knowing exactly what I wanted to see and how to get me from place to place. He was the perfect fit for me.

We started my first day in Israel at the famed Dead Sea. No trip to Israel would be complete without the obligatory dip and float in the Dead Sea. Due to its very high saline content, you truly float - without any effort - in this Sea.

On my second day, we drove a short distance from the Dead Sea to fabled Masada - the mountain fortress overlooking the Dead Sea. We took a glorious cable car ride up to Masada and toured the ruins. My guide was wonderful at explaining the history of Masada.
From Masada, we drove to the nearby Qumran caves. The Dead Sea scrolls were discovered among the 13 caves. The view of the caves is quite stunning. The surrounding Judean desert has so many fascinating shapes and curves.

We then drove towards Jerusalem and I visited Bethlehem. Regardless of your religion, it is hard not to appreciate the passion and religious fervor as you observe the worshipers at the Church of the Nativity and the Silver Star inside that marks the birthplace of Jesus Christ. The faithful kiss the Star and bring items to be blessed by touching the Star. I then walked through Manger Square and around the corner to the Milk Grotto - where a drop of milk supposedly fell from Mary while she was nursing the baby Jesus - which turned the Grotto white.

From Bethlehem, we drove approximately 10 minutes into Jerusalem and began the first of three sightseeing days in Jerusalem.

I stayed at the landmark King David Hotel in Jerusalem. My room had a magnificent view of the walled old city of Jerusalem and the Tower of David. The King David has been the resting spot of many a dignitary and celebrity. There is even a walking hall of fame of sorts in the lobby. Queen Elizabeth is one of the few who have signed their name on the floor. The walls are filled with photographs of some of the famous who have stayed there. The King David is well-located, it’s a lovely and short walk to the heart of Jerusalem.

Of course, Jerusalem is a very important sight to three of the world’s important monotheistic religions. The Dome of the Rock is considered the third most highly sight in Islam - from where Muhammed ascended to heaven one night. Its glittering gold dome can be seen from far away and is one of the most photographed sights in Jerusalem. The Dome of the Chain with its fine tile work stands right next to the Dome of the Rock, as does the nearby Al Aqsa mosque. For Christians, walking the 14 stations of the cross along the Via Dolorosa to the sight of Jesus’ crucifixion and Jesus’ tomb inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a religious experience. Of course, the Western Wall is the holiest of sights in Judaism. It is the only standing remnant of the Second Temple. I saw all of these places.

My guide even surprised me by taking me to the Western Wall on Thursday morning, when bar mitzvahs take place there. That was quite a spectacle. There were about 50 or so separate bar mitzvah ceremonies simultaneously occurring side by side. Seeing the ceremonial dress and the torah reading and the passion of the people was quite moving.

An early visit morning to the Mount of Olives area is essential. From there, you can see the sun shining on the old part of Jerusalem. The panoramic view of the entire walled city is gorgeous and makes for good photographs too. In the Mount of Olives, I saw the Mosque of the Ascension, where Jesus’ footprint is still visible. I saw the golden onion-shaped spires of the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, visited the Dominus Flevit church, toured the Garden of Gethsemane, viewed the very large Jewish Cemetery, and paid tribute to Mary at her tomb.

Inside the walled old city of Jerusalem, we stopped at the Mount Zion area to see King David’s tomb, which is draped in a purple cloth. I also walked in the room of the Last Supper, with its gorgeous vaulting arches. No trip to Mount Zion would be complete without a visit to Oskar Schindler’s tomb, which is still covered with pebbles and small rocks from Steven Spielberg’s film.

While I had heard and read much of the "division" of the old part of Jerusalem into the Arab, Jewish, Christian, and Armenian quarters, I thoroughly enjoyed walking in all the quarters. From looking for unusual buys in the Arab souqs to watching traditionally-dressed Orthodox Jews, the entire area was in a word - fascinating.

Outside of the walled old city, I also visited Yad Vashem, a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. I also saw some of the Dead Sea scrolls and one of the jars in which some scrolls were discovered, on display at the Book of the Shrine at the Israel Museum. The Book of the Shrine is white and shaped in the form of the lid of the jar. I toured the Knesset, which is the home to the Israeli parliament; watched the Israel Supreme Court hear a case in its impressive building in which all the light comes from the outside; and saw Marc Chagall’s 12 glorious stained-glass windows at the Hadassah center and hospital.

From Jerusalem, I went to Tel Aviv for two days. The contrast from the old and traditional in Jerusalem to the new and hip in Tel Aviv was striking. Tel Aviv is lined along the Mediterranean Sea and the beach helps define the city. Jaffa is in the southern part of Tel Aviv and is a walking tribute to the past. It hold much history and is a fun place to walk through its narrow pedestrian-only walkways. Jaffa is slightly elevated and provides lovely views of Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean Sea.

From Tel Aviv, I took easy day trips to Caesarea, Akko, and Haifa. I toured the beach aqueduct and the ruins in Caesarea. The hippodrome there is a must. The ancient city of Akko was a photographer’s dream - it is filled with old structures, arches, and all sorts of interesting shapes that enhance photographs. Haifa is Israel’s third largest city. A visit to the Bahai Gardens and the Bab of the Shrine is a must. The Gardens escalate along a hill and are immaculate. I thoroughly enjoyed my walking tour of the Gardens from the top of the hill down the terraced gardens until I reached the beautiful domed Bab of the Shrine.

My week in Israel was everything that I had hoped for and more. My guide brought history to life for me and ensured that I saw everything that I wanted to see. He knew the best times of the day to visit and photograph the many sights that I saw. For this, I sincerely thank Rita and her wonderful crew at Caravan-Serai.

I look forward to future trips made possible by Rita and Caravan-Serai.

(Note: This entry was written for us by Mark Schaeffer, a client who has recently returned from his tour of Israel. Thank you Mark for your post!)

New Egypt Specials and Programs!

New Egypt tours are posted on our website! The most exciting are the Dahabiyya Cruises. These ships are smaller than the cruise ships in our other programs (although those aren't really that big either when compared to a Carribean cruise ship!), and the itineraries are 8 days rather than 4. They are a slower, more relaxing way to see the sights up and down the Nile from Aswan to Luxor.

I just love the thought of cruising on a ship called the Om Kalthoum, or Agatha Christie. These ships are great for large families, groups and organization. Free time in the itineraries allow for meetings if you with and organization, or just to relax on the decks with a good book while the banks of the Nile glide by. Several itineraries include lunches on islands in the Nile, as well as all sightseeing with English and French speaking guides.

Check our Egypt page on our website for prices and more information.

Do you have a tip or resource, or even a funny story from your trip to the Middle East? Let us know. Comments are now an option on all posts from here on out. And since this is new, the first subject is open to what ever you would like to let readers know. As we go along and more entries are posted, there will be more subjects to comment on.

Please keep in mind that this is a travel log and not a political forum. We all have our opinions on politics, and some of us have very strong opinions (yours truly, included!), but this is not the place for that. Please keep comments focused on traveling in, and discovering the Middle East and North Africa.

Thank you and I look forward to your comments!

Call for entries

This is a call for any past Caravan-Serai travelers to send in their experiences while on one of our tours. Also, if you are about to depart on one of our tours and would like to share your experiences in almost real time, email me from time to time while you are traveling with your thoughts and I will get them posted here. Also, any photos you would like to share, send those as well and I will get them posted. I am also going to change the set up of this blog to allow you to comment directly from here so we can have more of a conversation about traveling in the Middle East. Ask questions, give tips and observations, or just share a story about your travels.

Our goal at Caravan-Serai Tours is to provide educational travel experiences which in turn will help promote better understanding between Americans and the Middle East.

Thank you!!

Spring tour roundup

Welcome to Caravan-Serai Tours 2009 travel season! Very soon we will have our Levantine Adventure Tour departing and it is sold out! We are very excited to see that interest in traveling to the Middle East and North Africa is still strong, and getting stronger all the time. In addition to our set departures, Tunisia is a very popular destination. I will be trying to get postings from some of our travelers headed there in the next couple of months.

There is still room on our tours to Jordan and Syria, and Iran this spring. We are also starting to see more registrations for our fall trips- Jordan-Israel, Levantine, and Iran.

In the next couple days I will be sending out our next country profile to our mailing list. This time we will be taking a look at Lebanon. I was there this last October and I loved it. This tiny country on the eastern shores of the Mediterranean Sea is so diverse, not only in its landscape, but also in the people who liver there. To learn more about Lebanon, visit our website and click on the link to join our mailing list. I will send the profile out in a few days, then again in about a week or so to anyone who signed up on the mailing list after it was first sent.

That's it for right now. Stay tuned for updates on our tours as they depart!

Brenda