Photo Album for Levantine Adventure Tour

Visit my photo album for the Levantine Adventure Tour! Click the link below.

Photo Album

enjoy!

Brenda

Home at last

Wow, what an action-packed last 2 and a half weeks! I am at home now, reflecting on my trip to Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon, and what a trip it was. Where else can you see ancient wonders such as Petra, natural wonders like Jeitta Grotto in Lebanon, cosmopolitan cities like Beirut and small villages and Bedouins still living the nomadic life?

I learned about insurance for camels- what happens if a camel runs out on the road and is hit by a car or bus? This a very real problem, and camels are very valuable to their owners- one figure I heard was about $1500 US dollars per animal. Obviously something you don't want to lose. But the camel herds, and the goat and sheep herds, too, often cross highways or graze alongside the roads. So what happens if one gets hit? Well, auto insurance includes provisions to compensate the animal's owner for their loss, as well as for fixing the car and taking care of other costs. I am sure Geico has never been asked - do you cover camel accidents?

I also got to see some places I had been before and noted the many changes that have taken place. One change in Jordan is the notable increase in visitors. Sites are more and more popular as word gets out that these sights really are amazing. Other changes were not so monumental, such as noting that the cafe I used to spend lots of time at in Aleppo when I was there 12 years ago, has been upgraded with new chairs, tables, and umbrellas, and the street it sits on is now blocked off to car traffic - that was half the appeal to the place before- watching the cars zoom around the base of the citadel! Oh well, time marches on, as the sculpture of Father Time reminds us at the Jeitta Grotto caves, and things will change either in large chunks or small drips.

My next project will be to upload a web album of the photos I took throughout the whole trip.

Aleppo, Syria

Aleppo's Ommayad Mosque after a brief rainstorm.

The only day it rained during our entire trip was our day in and around Aleppo on October 15. We got lucky, though. Our day started at the Citadel of Aleppo, then the Museum afterwards. As we were leaving the museum for St. Simeon, it started to rain. We had decided to stop and get some "pizzas" for lunch to take on the way and eat while we were at St. Simeon. It rained all the way there and and while we ate our lunch in the bus, but as soon as we were done, the rain stopped! We were able to visit the site where St. Simeon the Stylite, a Christian ascetic, settled in 412. He lived for nearly 40 years on the top of a column, surrounded by pilgrims. The surrounding basilica and baptistry are on a hill top overlooking the surrounding countryside and you can see Turkey to the north. As soon as our visit was over and we were heading back to Aleppo in the bus, the rain started again!

Once back in Aleppo we went to visit the Ommayad Mosque and the souk with its miles and miles of covered passageways, located at the foot of the citadel. The souk is ancient, having been in use for centuries because of Aleppo's important location on the trade routes between east and west. You can spend days and days exploring all of the souk, and you can buy everything from kitchen utensils, fabrics, clothing, gold, souvenirs, soap, spices, nuts, sweets, and more. It is an asault on your senses, but in a good way- the odors of the spices and the sounds of the merchants moving more goods to their shops on the backs of donkeys, colors of all types of fabrics. The souk is a world of its own. Once inside, you leave the city behind, and it is very easy to get lost. I don't know if the is a map of the layout of the souk, but I doubt it would do any good. But half the fun and adventure of visiting the souk is to emerse yourself if this age-old insitution of trade and commerce, and forget about what might be going on outside.

Brenda

Beirut - the Paris of the Middle East

I have done some previous studying of the vibrant city of Beirut and it is really quite inspiring to be here at last. One thing I hadn't really realized about the city and the country of Lebanon is that there really isn't much flat land, except in the Bekka valley. The rest, almost right up to the Mediterranean Sea is mountains! Beirut is located on a natural peninsula that is relatively flat compared to the surrounding landscape. It really is beautiful here, with the warm sea breeze and the zest for life is evident everywhere.

Beirut and Lebanon have gone through so much in its history - I won't even attempt to summarize here as it would be pages and pages long even in summary! - but every time seems to snap back, rise from the ashes, and becomes even better than before. OK, some propaganda there, but for the most part it is true. While not everyone is happy about some of the reconstruction plans, or the handling of archeological sites newly discovered in the city, or the price of real estate in the downtown area, for the most part with little exception you would not know there was a war in this city as recently as 2 years ago.

There are a couple of reminders, or souveniers as our guide liked to say, of the recent war but also of the civil war in the 80s and 90s. For example, a theater that was opened just days before fighting broke out in the civil war is in ruins, but part is still standing and will some day be repaired/rebuilt and used for different purpose. There is also the shell of a Holiday Inn hotel that is a remnant from the civil war - also to be repaired someday and used again. They are reminders to what has happened while at the same time providing a stark contrast as to what has become of the city since then: new construction, pedestrian streets, a beautiful coriche to stroll on, and more have been built - the city is as modern as any western metropolis. Mercedes and BMWs and other luxury cars zoom long the streets next to Hondas and the new Chinese car - Cherry.

Today we visited Harissa to the north of Beirut to see the giant statue of the Virgin Mary and see the modern cathedral as well as enjoy the view of the city of Jounieh below, the coastline and Beirut in the distance. Our next stop was the Jeita grotto- which is a candidate for the new 7 Natural Wonders of the World. These underground caverns are spectacular - stalactites and stalagmites and the undrground river rushing through the rocks below- amazing! This place is not to be missed, it truly is a natural wonder. It is hard to imagine how long it has taken these rock formations to develop into their current state - and they are still growing and changing. There is a sculpture of Father Time outside the caves.

After the Grotto, we went to the south of Beirut to visit the palace at Beitedine. this is a 19th century palace and is still a governemt facility. The architecture is really beautiful once you get inside- don't be fooled by the somewhat plain exterior and main square. However, before our visit there we stopped for lunch at a little restaurant not far a way from the palace and we were in for a treat! The woman that owns the retaurant was warned ahead of time we were coming so she was waiting at the door and as soon as she saw our bus she ran out waving and greeting us with so much enthusiasm it was really cute. She was running around like crazy to make sure we had places to sit, took our orders, suggested I have the special Amina pizza- her specialty, and the green tea rather than regular tea - OK. Good choices/recommendations on both counts. It was really one of the most fun lunches we have had -relaxing, entertaining, and good food. Al Amina Restaurant is a good place to stop when visiting Beitedine.

Our day was completed with a walking tour of downtown Beirut. We could see some of the new construction as well as the uncovered Roman ruins. The city was alive with families enjoying the late afternoon at the cafes and strolling through the streets, and also there were a few weddings going on. We ended at the Green Line, that separated West Beirut from East Beirut during the civil war and is now a park commemorating the martyrs of the cicl war. Also, a commemoration of Rafiq Hariri's death and the still unsolved mystery of his assisination was nearby.

Ok, I think I have rambled on long enough. Maybe tomorrow I will sit down and write a more coherant summary of the trip so far.

brenda

Lebanon at last

After continuing our journey through Syria we are finally in Lebanon. I am sorry I have not been able to write since arriving in Syria - we have seen and done so much since my last post! Palmyra was incredible, and of course Aleppo is my favorite.

Aleppo is Syria's second largest city and in the very northern part of the country. I must admit, I wish we could have stayed longer. In any case, I did run into someone I had met when I was in Aleppo 12 years ago - Aladine who runs several kiosks in the famous covered souk of Aleppo - it is his family's business. Anyway, he is quite a crazy character and does a brisk business! I chatted with him for a bit before continuing on with my own exploration of the souk, which brought back a few memories. And a few things have changed in the city, and elsewhere in Syria since my last visit.

We are now in Beirut and enjoying the sites. I am about to get cut off on my computer time so I wil lhave to finish this later! Sorry for the brevity! Back as soon as I can!

Brenda

From the Dead Sea to Damascus

Ahhh, Damascus, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world! Unless of course you are in Aleppo! Ahhhh, Aleppo, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world! OK, so why do they both claim the title? Well both cities have evidence of continuous human habitation dating back longer than any other cities in the world, but I heard today the Damascus gets the official title because it is and has been a capitol city throughout much of its existance.

OK, but before we get to Damascus, I must tell you about the Dead Sea. We had a morning to spend a few hours soaking the Dead Sea, or just relaxing. I opted for the swim in the Dead Sea since I have studied a bit about Dead Sea salt and all its benefits so I could not pass this opportunity up to soak in the real deal. The water is like bath water. You wade in and when you get up to your hips you can just sit back and start floating. And let me tell you, float on your back! Don't try to float on your stomach - it doesn't work very well. You are so bouyant that your legs will not want to go back down to stand up. This creates a dilema when you want to get out! I tried and tried to get my legs under me but no way! I was thrashing around but it just wasn't happening - everytime I would try I would roll over or tilt and not get my feet down. I finally ended up having to go into the very shallow water and then I could get my knees under me and stand up! Glad no one had a video camera.

Next was the mud treatment. Soft, silty mud can be found along the shore of the Dead Sea and it is loaded with minerals. You just reach down and scoop some up and start smearing it all over yourself for more youthful looking skin and to help with sking conditions and to draw out impurities. Once covered in the mud, you just stand or sit and let it dry in the sun for a bit, then wither rinse off in the Dead Sea or shower it off at one of the beach showers. One other thing is a must - completely rinse yourself after soaking the Dead Sea or you will experience chaffing and itching like you wouldn't believe - I heard about that before from someone who apparently decided to skip the rinse and just got dressed strait from their soak. Big mistake, they discovered!

So after the Dead Sea we went to Amman for overnight, then the next day we departed for Syria with a stop in Jerash before the border, and then at Bosra after crossing into Syria. Both sights are very impressive and I highly recommend visiting both - the theater at Bosra is amazingly well preserved and the black basalt stone it is constructed with is unusual - most of the Roman cities we think of are white with the limestone and other lighter colored stones used in their construction.

Finally we made it to Damascus - yeah!! Damascus has a history dating back even further than the pyramids of Egypt. It figures prominently in Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic history and has remnants of almost all of its history still visible. The Ommayyad Mosque, for example, started out as a pagan temple, then bacame a Roman temple, then a Christian church and is now a mosque. All of its past can still be seen in the architecture - from the columns, minarets, mosaics, and arches. St. Paul was converted to Christianity in Damascus.

I won't go into the complete history of Damascus here- it is far beyond my scope and I certainly don't have the amount of time necessary on my free interent access at the hotel to do it justice! But to really start to see and understand the importance of Damascus, you really must walk the Street Called Strait and visit St. Hannaniya's church, and walk the marbel floor of the Ommayyad Mosque to just scratch the surface.

One more thing not to be missed- the ice cream at one of the oldest shops in Damascus - the ice creamery in the Hamadiya Souk! YUM!!!

Tomorrow it is on to Palmyra, so more to come then!

Brenda

Wadi Rum and Lawrence of Arabia

I have found that a new recommendation we should make for anyone traveling to Jordan would be to read up on Lawrence of Arabia and the Great Arab Revolt when the Arab tribes rose up against the Ottoman Turks in the early 1900's. A trip to the Desert Castles starts you off with a bit of history of Lawrence and his adventures, but to really get into it you must go to Wadi Rum and see where he and the Arab leaders initiated attacks against the infrastructure of the Ottomans, namely the railway that passes through the desert.

Our tour took us on a long journey from Amman to Madaba, Mt. Nebo, Kerak castle, and finally Wadi Rum and the Jabal Rum campsite. It was a long day, but worth it to spend the night in the camp in the middle of this historic and beautiful but barren landscape. Our camp was actually not too far away from the rail line that was bombed by Lawrence, but is now repaired in use today. We had dinner under the stars- a real Bedouin meal, followed by entertainment and a mock wedding where bride and groom are paraded out and then celebrate the marriage with singing and dancing. This camp is pretty nice as far as camping goes- individual tents with beds, blankets and pillows, a bathroom with showers and toilets! When the sun went down, there were foxes singing to the stars and moon to serenade us to sleep.

Our next day included a tour of Wadi Rum which shows off the beauty of the desert and mountain landscape - not to be missed! We ended up finally in Petra with a full day of sightseeing the next day. I have been to Petra before but it is always a spectacular sight. A group of us decided to do the candlelight tour through the canyon and to the Treasury - the whole way is lit by candles and at the Treasury the crowd is entertained by Bedouin music and story telling. The next day when we visited the sight we did the usual horse ride to the entrance of the canyon, then walk the rest of the way to the treasury. A little further on, three of us decided to hire donkeys to take us to the Monastery at the other end of the canyon - something I had not done before. Let me tell you, it is well worth the $20! We rode the donkeys almost to the top of the 800+ stairs, climbed the last little bit and there it was! The Monastery is like the Treasury, but without the crowds. What an exciting trip to ride the donkey up, visit the sight, then walk down to meet the donkeys again to ride them back to the Treasury- it is well worth it because we were able to see a lot in our short time there, and it was just a hoot, any way- but watch out, you have no directional control over the donkeys! They know where they are supposed to go, so don't try to change their minds!

OK, enough for now. Others are waiting to use the computers, so I better get off this one so I don't get in trouble! More later about the Dead Sea and Bethany.

Brenda

Levantine Adventure is underway!

We had our first day of sightseeing today, starting at the Desert Castles in the eastern desert. Many of the group were intrigued with the idea that we were on the road to Iraq. But, we never did get any closer than about 150 miles or so. We were very close to the Saudi border, though!

The bus picked us up this morning and we headed out of the city, which is becoming a more involved adventure than it used to be. The traffiv situation in Amman has become very congested. Certaininly it is nothing like Cairo traffic or from what I hear, Tehran traffic, but it is taking longer and longer just to cross town due to the increased population of the city. This is the result of a huge influx of Iraqis fleeing their homeland. In the early days of the war in Iraq in 2003, those with the ability and money to get out of the country did, especially when they could see the situation deteriorating into chaos. So they went to their neighboring countries like Jordan and Syria, and have since put a squeeze on housing and other goods and services, while swelling the populations of their host cities. Our guide, Okla, said that apartment rents in Amman tripled! I heard this was also true in Damascus. Anyway, the end result is that there have been far reaching and unintended consequences of the war in Iraq that are not talked about at all.

OK, back to the Desert Castles. I do have to caution anyone that the term "castle" is used loosely here. The three structures that we saw were of differing types of design, use, and size. Probably the one closest to being a castle is the desert fortress of Azraq, the furthest to the east. It was built of black basalt stone, and is a large walled structure with many rooms around the interior of the walls, and one in the middle. It also has a more recognizable place in history for many westerners - Lawrence of Arabia spent time there meeting with the Arab leaders as they planned the great Arab Revolt to take the Arab lands and people back from the Ottoman rulers.

The other castles were used as a private hunting lodge and a meeting place between the Bedouins and the Ommayyad leaders, who would trade with them and make deals with them to keep the Bedouins from attacking their caravans! At the Qasr Amra, we stopped to have tea in a Bedouin tent, and were greatly entertained by a young man who gave a dancing demonstration, and showed the group a traditional Bedouin welcoming and coffee preparation (even though we had tea).

The day was capped off with a visit to the hilltop ruins of the original city of Amman- Pagan Roman, Islamic, Byzantine - all represented! And a great view of the city can be had from here as well. We had a short visit to the museum on the sight, which is well worth a look!

OK, I am about to fall over because I am still very tired- didn't sleep to well last night so I need to get to bed early tonight and try and catch up. More to follow, probably from the Dead Sea. I will be able to report on our night out under the stars in Wadi Rum, and out visit to Petra.

Good night!

Brenda

Arrival day...

At last, after a very long day of flying - I left my house outside Seattle at 4:30am Saturday the 4th, and now it is 10pm Sunday here in Amman - we have arrived and the tour has officially begun. I am here with a group of 14 people to see the spectacular sights of Jordan, Syria and Lebanon over the next 2 weeks. I am already hearing from people in the group how friendly thay are finding the Jordanian people, even in the short time we have been here. I am sure this positive feeling will continue throughout the tour as the group expereinces more and more of the Arab hospitality.

Tomorrow we will start the day with a visit to the Desert Castles in the desert east of Amman , so hopefully when I write tomorrow I will have some photos to post with my entry. I am really looking forward to this tour and getting to know the rest of the group and to hear about their perceptions as the days go by.

This is a short post, mostly because we have only just arrived, but also because I am about to pass out from being so tired! Good night, and more tomorrow when things start to happen!

Brenda

Checking my packing list

Countdown, T-minus 2.5 days and counting. On Saturday morning I will be hopping on a plane to go to New York to meet up with our group going to Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon for 2 and a half weeks. I can't wait! I just need to finish my packing. I am one of those who waits to the last minute to pack.

I will be posting updates during the tour so you can read all about our adventures, and if I can, I will post photos, too.

So check back - the first entry will probably be on the 6th of October from Amman, Jordan.

Brenda